matt.mcinnes
2F-ETI
- Thread starter
- #141
Hope your saving for your tyres, till then back in your box NAVI. Oh no I'm the NAVI this year
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Builds 2F + (3F-E) = 2FETI Into My FJ40
- Thread starter matt.mcinnes
- Start date
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Hope your saving for your tyres, till then back in your box NAVI. Oh no I'm the NAVI this year
matt.mcinnes
2F-ETI
- Thread starter
- #142
My youngest daughter insists on her pic been on here 
with our 40
Now today I picked up an early 2F dizzy maybe some one can tell me the year, but at first glance side by side I recon the 3F-E dizzy will bolt stright in although it looks quite different.
with our 40
Now today I picked up an early 2F dizzy maybe some one can tell me the year, but at first glance side by side I recon the 3F-E dizzy will bolt stright in although it looks quite different.
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Mark W
Yep, I really don't really care that much I guess.
Off the top of my head, if you use a piston with the same pin-piston face relationship as the 3F, that will allow you to use a longer rod than a 2F piston pin-piston face relationship will.
Rod bolts are going to the most important factor in improving the factory rods.
You don't expect you will be able to loose much weight unless you use lighter material (AL). It is not an overly fat rod.
Mark...
matt.mcinnes
2F-ETI
- Thread starter
- #144
Measured the two dizzys I have at work and over all though side buy side they look a little different I recon the 3F-E dizzy will fit a 2F block.
Now saying that there were a few minor differences.
The 2F dizzy measured to the point where it seats in the block 122mm from the tip that locates in to the oil pump. The 3F-E dizzy measures 120mm which means when bolted up their is 2mm less engaged to drive the oil pump.
The gear all though the same distance from the tip of the dizzy will sit 2mm higher as well.
The easiest soloution seems to be to strip the 3F-E dizzy down and machine 2mm off where it seats to the block. Not too hard to do.
Before I go down that road does any one have a 2F dizzy laying around they can measure for some comparrisons.
Q also posted here in 60 forum Dizzy Q
Now saying that there were a few minor differences.
The 2F dizzy measured to the point where it seats in the block 122mm from the tip that locates in to the oil pump. The 3F-E dizzy measures 120mm which means when bolted up their is 2mm less engaged to drive the oil pump.
The gear all though the same distance from the tip of the dizzy will sit 2mm higher as well.
The easiest soloution seems to be to strip the 3F-E dizzy down and machine 2mm off where it seats to the block. Not too hard to do.
Before I go down that road does any one have a 2F dizzy laying around they can measure for some comparrisons.
Q also posted here in 60 forum Dizzy Q
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matt.mcinnes
2F-ETI
- Thread starter
- #146
Tks,
Long way to go yet but hoping to have the engine in by late August and Turbo'd by Xmas
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G'day Matt,
It's fantastic to see such a 'technical' thread being posted by a fellow Aussie. The engineering skills of some of the members on this board are absolutely extraordinary and I reckon this thread has to be up there with the best of them. Keep up the good work and I look forward to bumping into you in the bush if you happen to be in East Gippsland.
Cheers,
Ben
P.S. A little of track but I'm curious about your choice of tyres. Why not something more aggresive Claws, Swamper, Simex (even the old faithful BFG muds) etc???
It's fantastic to see such a 'technical' thread being posted by a fellow Aussie. The engineering skills of some of the members on this board are absolutely extraordinary and I reckon this thread has to be up there with the best of them. Keep up the good work and I look forward to bumping into you in the bush if you happen to be in East Gippsland.
Cheers,
Ben
P.S. A little of track but I'm curious about your choice of tyres. Why not something more aggresive Claws, Swamper, Simex (even the old faithful BFG muds) etc???
matt.mcinnes
2F-ETI
- Thread starter
- #148
Tks Oh by the way I'm a POM
East Gippsland would be for me the 4, 5 & 6th at Gippy Go Down so if your there say high you can't miss the truck
As for tyres mmmmmmmm http://scotto.3rdrock4x4.com/MattMc40.mov AT's rock but for Comp
After 10 years of drought I can see little point in running simex's for now, they are just wasted for everyday wheeling, the winch is rearly used even with AT's. Out of all the trips I have done I have not been out driven by anyone on Simex's or Swampers infact it's been more the other way around, the At's suit the currrent conditions.
But bring on the rain and watch me bolt the Simex's on
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matt.mcinnes
2F-ETI
- Thread starter
- #149
Well after looking at making our own custom Con Rods we have decided to not to, just too costly for such a small number.
We have elected to order a set from here instead http://www.cunninghamrods.com/ in 4340 Chromemoly
We have elected to order a set from here instead http://www.cunninghamrods.com/ in 4340 Chromemoly
matt.mcinnes
2F-ETI
- Thread starter
- #150
Finally the wiring loom has come out of the 80 series I got the engine from so of to pick that up tomorrow. Not sure how much of it will be of use a part from the conectors. May run a whole new custom loom.
matt.mcinnes
2F-ETI
- Thread starter
- #151
Things move slowly but they move, I'm told all good things come to those who wait, I'M JUST IMPATIENT
The conrods were in the end ordered from here Argo Race as they came recomended and also save on shipping from the USA and are about 4 weeks away.
The use of custom length con rods allows us to use off the shelf JE Pistions JEPistons.com | JE Pistons which will have the coated skirt and ceramic tops.
Still waiting on the high flow injectors from Bosch Grrrrrr
But getting there
The conrods were in the end ordered from here Argo Race as they came recomended and also save on shipping from the USA and are about 4 weeks away.
The use of custom length con rods allows us to use off the shelf JE Pistions JEPistons.com | JE Pistons which will have the coated skirt and ceramic tops.
Still waiting on the high flow injectors from Bosch Grrrrrr
But getting there
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Mark W
Yep, I really don't really care that much I guess.
So you shortened up the connecting rods?
If so... Be careful with your rpms.
Mark...
If so... Be careful with your rpms.
Mark...
matt.mcinnes
2F-ETI
- Thread starter
- #153
Mark W
Yep, I really don't really care that much I guess.
Sorry... I was thinking about the 3F, not your 2FE set up.
In the case of the 3F, the short rod and short bore already put a lot of stress on the piston skirt. The piston drops out of the bore, almost to the pin. The rod is at a sharp angle when the crank is at 90* from TDC/BDC. Any shortening of the rod will only increase this angle/stress.
I've shattered two different pistons (skirts) in 3FEs from too much RPM. A cammed 3FE likes to turn up nicely. But the pistons can't take what the rest of the motor wants to do. Keep it below 5000. Factory redline of 4500 is not a bad idea.
I am actually more comfortable with a 2F at this RPM range than I am with a 3F. The much longer rod and longer bore eliminate this particular weakness. Achilles heel of the 2F is the rod bolts. These can be upgraded. The rod and bore of the 3F can not be changed.
If you are not shortening you 2F rods by much, then you should not have any skirt worries.
Without upgraded rod bolts, I'd still keep it under 5000, even with the 2F.
Mark...
In the case of the 3F, the short rod and short bore already put a lot of stress on the piston skirt. The piston drops out of the bore, almost to the pin. The rod is at a sharp angle when the crank is at 90* from TDC/BDC. Any shortening of the rod will only increase this angle/stress.
I've shattered two different pistons (skirts) in 3FEs from too much RPM. A cammed 3FE likes to turn up nicely. But the pistons can't take what the rest of the motor wants to do. Keep it below 5000. Factory redline of 4500 is not a bad idea.
I am actually more comfortable with a 2F at this RPM range than I am with a 3F. The much longer rod and longer bore eliminate this particular weakness. Achilles heel of the 2F is the rod bolts. These can be upgraded. The rod and bore of the 3F can not be changed.
If you are not shortening you 2F rods by much, then you should not have any skirt worries.
Without upgraded rod bolts, I'd still keep it under 5000, even with the 2F.
Mark...
matt.mcinnes
2F-ETI
- Thread starter
- #155
The rod bolts will for sure be upgraded with the custom con rods and the Rev Limiter will be set to 5,500. At the end of the day I,m not looking for a super high revving engine and 5,500 will be hairy enough for me
matt.mcinnes
2F-ETI
- Thread starter
- #156
Found a post on Outerlimits4x4 looking for a 3F block 
I have one of those kicking around in the shed cant imagin where from
So the block from the 3F-E is gone for $100US
I have one of those kicking around in the shed cant imagin where from
So the block from the 3F-E is gone for $100US
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and to a good home it has gone....thx matt.
i think the 1 st thing i need to do when mines up and running is get a rev limitter, or stop wearing boots...lol
btw i know its been said b4...great post, so much to learn, sent the wife into town to watch a movie so i cound use the dishwasher...lol, now to work out how to open it
i think the 1 st thing i need to do when mines up and running is get a rev limitter, or stop wearing boots...lol
btw i know its been said b4...great post, so much to learn, sent the wife into town to watch a movie so i cound use the dishwasher...lol, now to work out how to open it
matt.mcinnes
2F-ETI
- Thread starter
- #158
and to a good home it has gone....thx matt.
i think the 1 st thing i need to do when mines up and running is get a rev limitter, or stop wearing boots...lol
btw i know its been said b4...great post, so much to learn, sent the wife into town to watch a movie so i cound use the dishwasher...lol, now to work out how to open it
Hopefully the block is as good as it looks and you wont need as much of the big right boot. let me know how you get on. As for the dishwasher I spray my parts with splenty of De-greaser leave them to soak a few hours and then was in the dish washer.
Matt
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matt.mcinnes
2F-ETI
- Thread starter
- #159
Well time ticks by the custom con rods from Argo with high grade rod bolts will be in next week H beams too to my suprise for some reason I was expecting I beams they are also about 1mm shorter than the original ones. $1100US OUCH.
The JE piston will now be a stock Chev Flat top with Teflon coated skirt and Ceramic coated top. But these it seems will have a small recess machined into them to get the compression just perfect for the turbo. $800US before coatings
The end of Aug and the removal of the block creaps forever closer.
The JE piston will now be a stock Chev Flat top with Teflon coated skirt and Ceramic coated top. But these it seems will have a small recess machined into them to get the compression just perfect for the turbo. $800US before coatings
The end of Aug and the removal of the block creaps forever closer.
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matt.mcinnes
2F-ETI
- Thread starter
- #160
Well another piece of the puzzle arrived this morning.
A 3F FSM
I have a question for you in the USA, here the 3F-E manual RM134E is a supplement to the 3F manual 36253E, however in the USA the 3F was never available I believe, so do you have one complete manual or is the 3F-E still a supplement to the 3F which you never got?
A 3F FSM
I have a question for you in the USA, here the 3F-E manual RM134E is a supplement to the 3F manual 36253E, however in the USA the 3F was never available I believe, so do you have one complete manual or is the 3F-E still a supplement to the 3F which you never got?
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