Finished putting my new 22re long block together two weeks ago. Working on setting it up and test driving. One of the few things that is not brand new is the throttle body and intake, so there are some question marks in that area. I have set the Tps twice, once when it was nice and accessible, and then again yesterday on the truck. I think it is set right. Warmed the truck up and set the timing as stated in the FSM. Seemed to go exactly as it always does. Double checked the vacuum hoses. They seem correct, but a bit tricky with black hoses against a black truck. Was going to test drive, but rpms won't go past 2000, without a high surging idle occurring. Haven't had this before, so any pointers are welcome. Anything simple I might have missed? Before I pull off various parts from the other engine, which had no issues like this. I have 3 throttle bodies, but no O-ring for the aux idle valve, so I could just swap out throttle bodies. No check engine, sparks and wires are brand new, cap and rotor new, etc.
22re Throttle issue.
- Thread starter jgranthevagrant
- Start date
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what method are you using to set the tps?
contrary to the internet legends, you need to just set the idl switch adjustment. if this is out it will surge as you describe.
the contacts should open just as you crack the blade.
contrary to the internet legends, you need to just set the idl switch adjustment. if this is out it will surge as you describe.
the contacts should open just as you crack the blade.
- Thread starter
- #4
I used the FSM, 2 different multimeters, LCE writeup, and Roger Brown's page. I can try it again tomorrow. Last time I set the TPS I had no problem at all. This time, no end to the problems. I thought it was right yesterday, becuase there was no check engine, but revs won't go past 2000, and surges if I try the gas pedal or turning the throttle on the intake. Is it possible there is something wrong with a brand new OEM TPS? And crack the blade means the throttle plate?
- Thread starter
- #5
I have been swapping to metric socket heads on the TPS and other parts when I work on them. I wreck the JIS heads a lot when I pull stuff. Wrecked the dash pot screws this week.
yes. pins 3 and 4. should show continuity when the blade is fully closed and go open just as you crack the throttle.
pin 3 should be 12v koeo
pin 4 should go to ground.
pin 1 is your 5v
pin 2 is the sweep signal. should sweep roughly from .5 - 4.5. these aren't always in that range but should never be above or below those values.
the resistance method is bs period.
- Thread starter
- #7
Just tried it again. Resistance method according to FSM FI 86. Never really got the resistances listed. I think the problem starts when I try to position the TPS to start with. FSM says "when ohmeter deflects" (FI 87), but I can't tell when or if a digital multimeter deflects. I also tried the continuity a bit, but got continuity with a .57 gauge and with the .85 gauge as well. I will go out and try it again tomorrow. Garage is pretty cold after 6. I also have 2 other TPSs to try if necessary. One was on the truck until August, and there were no issues then.
- Thread starter
- #8
Went out this afternoon andd spent a few frustrating hours trying to set the brand new TPS. Never felt close. Ran a few tests on the old engine and TPS and it seemed good, or at least much closer. So did the third TB I had sitting around. Decided the one in the truck felt "different" from the other two, so I pulled the new TPS back off. Fairly annoying when it is on the truck and the thermostat neck is in the way. I think I found the issue. TPS flap is 90 degrees to the throttle plate, which would throw a lot of things off.
- Thread starter
- #9
Entire intake side is from another block I had sitting around, so I spent hours cleaning both halves, putting in new gaskets, etc. Never looked at the TPS at all.
This is the kind of stuff that you learn the most from and never forget. How frustrating though.
I shouldn't have said "never forget" because now that I saw the pic you posted........I forgot my son had the same problem on his 91 22RE and after similar struggles, I noticed that lever being 90 degrees off from the one he originally had. I think he also had a couple intakes or something and picked the cleanest one. In my defense, I'm getting older and it was about 15 years ago.
I'm glad you figured it out and posted it.
I shouldn't have said "never forget" because now that I saw the pic you posted........I forgot my son had the same problem on his 91 22RE and after similar struggles, I noticed that lever being 90 degrees off from the one he originally had. I think he also had a couple intakes or something and picked the cleanest one. In my defense, I'm getting older and it was about 15 years ago.
I'm glad you figured it out and posted it.
Not sure if this is your problem but, ... when you install the newer style intake on an pre-1989 22re, you need to move the pawl from the old throttle body to the new. They are 90 degrees apart.
- Thread starter
- #12
All my intakes and TBs are from 1989-1994, afaik. Engine seems good. Drove about 20ks just now. Now back to my intermittent no-start issue.
Have you checked for the starting relay wire issue? Not sure I’m describing it correctly but it’s a wiring flaw that some of these trucks have. Mine had it and the fix solved my intermittent starting issues. Didn’t see any details in the other posts so apologies if this is way off.
- Thread starter
- #14
Was working on this before I started my engine build. Just getting back to it now. I will read back through and update. Started fine about 20 times during engine break in and tuning. Replaced COR while waiting for engine parts. No luck, but COR was 34 years old, so I don't feel bad about replacing it. Will get back to it towards the weekend.
- Thread starter
- #16
Haven't had time to look at it this week, but will make a list of things done and things to check. Trying to deal with winter tires for two other vehicles as we can see snow from the house this morning.
