22re cranks but won't start. (1 Viewer)

[jgranthevagrant]

I will ask Mud to see if I'm on the right track. Truck is a 1990 22re with 390 k. Has been running excellent this year, until 2 days ago. Lost power and stalled, would not restart. Towed home.

It felt like a fuel delivery/starvation issue. Here is what I have done so far.

Checked battery. Good. Starter cranks solidly.

Checked for spark on #1 cylinder. Good spark.

Pulled plug. Plug is normal colour. Plug is dry.

Changed Fuel filter. Had a spare lying around.

Pulled cold start injector. No fuel came out.

Seems like the fuel pump is becoming #1 suspect. I have not tried jumping the connectors in the diagnostic port yet. I will try when the rain slows down. I can't usually get the pump to run when I do this, I think because there is a lot of dielectric gunk in there. I can set the timing. I also tried jamming the MAFS door open. No start.

Any other way to test the fuel pump? wires straight off the battery? The fuel pump is not the original nor is it OEM. (long story) I have the original and an entire spare assembly. Both would have over 200k on them. Any ideas or suggestions are welcome. Yes I have checked the FAQ, and Yotatech and Toyota nation.

 

[KLF]

Try the jumper on the Fp and B+ pins in the diagnostic connector first, key on, you should hear the pump humming from in the tank and hear fuel hissing through the fuel rail past the pressure regulator.

If that doesn't work, take out the passenger seat (4 14mm bolts), lift up the carpeting/mat, look for the connector on the harness that goes through the floor. Check the wiring diagram in the FSM for the pins that go to the fuel pump, jumper to the battery with some zip cord.

Still no noise, prep to drop the tank.

 

[jgranthevagrant]

Thanks KLF. I will try that this week after work, if the rain stops. Anything other suspects besides fuel pump? I might try to lift the box to get at the pump. I wish there was an access panel like the 4runners.

 

[pappy]

When you replace the pump use a Denso unit. They can be had aftermarket for significantly less than OEM. The plus? They ARE OEM. There was a thread on the subject recently. Search.

 

[jgranthevagrant]

Thanks pappy. I go OEM or Denso/Aisin on everything I replace. Neither of the two OEM spares I have actually failed, but I will investigate a new one if I go to all the trouble of digging into the tank.

 

[KLF]

I had another thought that maybe the timing chain has failed, but if you have spark, then the chain is still OK.

 

[pappy]

I had another thought that maybe the timing chain has failed, but if you have spark, then the chain is still OK.

I still remember the day when my truck died. No spark and the rotor wasn't turning inside the dizzy. So I pulled off the rocker arm cover, and pulled out the chain. This was on the freeway 30 miles east of Flagstaff, and it was snowing. Glorious day.

OK, back on topic. Short the service connector to confirm the pump.

 

[jgranthevagrant]

Timing chain is fairly new. I will check the connector and/or pull the seat to test the pump. It is raining so hard right now I won't be able to hear the pump if it is humming. Will try again Tuesday night.

 

[jgranthevagrant]

Just jumpered the +B to Fp connector. Fuel pump hums along nicely. Not sure what to check next. Crank angle sensor?

 

[pappy]

Just jumpered the +B to Fp connector. Fuel pump hums along nicely. Not sure what to check next. Crank angle sensor?

Not on a 22RE. Does your dizzy rotor turn when you run the starter?

 

[jgranthevagrant]

Just pulled cap. Rotor turns when I turn the crank by hand. I had spark on the number one when i checked it on the weekend. Double checked the fuel pump with check connector. Fuel pump still humming nicely. Does not seem like much pressure in the lines at the fuel filter. Fuel pressure regulator?

 

[KLF]

Could the sock on the bottom of the fuel pump be clogged with rust and other gunk from inside the tank?

pssstt... Are you sure there's plenty of gas in the tank?

 

[jgranthevagrant]

Sock could be clogged, sure. I can't tell. There is fuel in the tank. I could drain the tank on the weekend and take a look at what comes out. Any point in flushing the tank with chemicals of some sort? The tank is 24 years old, after all.

 

[pappy]

Just jumpered the +B to Fp connector. Fuel pump hums along nicely. Not sure what to check next. Crank angle sensor?

OK with the pump humming nicely, is there fuel at the cold start injector?

 

[jgranthevagrant]

I did not check that yet. Should I pull it with the pump actually running? I just got home, so nothing is happening tonight. Was in the U.S picking up an ARB bumper for a truck that isn't running.

 

[pappy]

I would run the pump then crack the CSI and see if you have good pressure. I borrowed a buddies gauge that hooks to the CSI to measure the pressure, but I have no idea where you would buy one.

 

[jgranthevagrant]

I will get back to it Friday or Sat. Raining too hard right now. Pull the fuel line to the CSI or pull the CSI right off the intake? I have a spare (used) CSI I can throw on.

 

[jgranthevagrant]

Ok. Jumpered the B+ to Fp again. Pump still hums nicely. Seems like fuel at fuel filter. Hose vibrates. Turned key to off position. Pulled line off cold start. No fuel came out. Jumpered at the check connector again. Pulled line off Cold start with fuel pump running. No fuel came out. Checked all plugs this time. All are dry and look normal. Now preparing to drain fuel from gas tank and look at what comes out. No sign of fuel leaks along the lines when fuel pump is running. Not sure what next steps will be.

Does pressure regulator fail? EGR stuck open? Mafs not telling fuel pump to run? Circuit opening relay failed?

 

[pappy]

EGR has nothing to do with this problem.

Fuel pressure regulator, maybe. Fuel damper, maybe.

If you run the pump, and there is no fuel at the CSI, you have an obstruction someplace from the tank to the engine. Or the regulator is not allowing pressure to build. Regardless, it would seem there would be some fuel at the CSI with the pump running even with a failed regulator.

AFM is probably not the problem since the pump signal is bypassed and the problem persists. The only items in the way of fuel to the rail are the lines, the filter, and the pulsation damper. The regulator is located on the end of rail between the rail and the return line to the tank.

Next test would be to loosen the pulsation damper and see if you have fuel from the line to the rail.

I'm putting money on the pump.

 

[pappy]

The damper is located underneath the throttle body. Kind of a PITA to get a wrench on, but possible.