2018 Three Feathers Mfg. 'Trail Head' (15 Viewers)

[tlin]

I like your trailer, makes me (once again) dream of owning my own some day.

Welcome to the Mr. Buddy Club!!! For your heater, this video is worth a quick watch. Also read the first comment under the video (it's from an engineer with the company - very useful).

I've been using one of these for probably 8 years - zero problems (1 lb. cylinders only).

Cheers!

 

[80t0ylc]

I like your trailer, makes me (once again) dream of owning my own some day.

Welcome to the Mr. Buddy Club!!! For your heater, this video is worth a quick watch. Also read the first comment under the video (it's from an engineer with the company - very useful).

I've been using one of these for probably 8 years - zero problems (1 lb. cylinders only).

Cheers!

Thanks for the compliment and also the Youtube link. There was a printout and note in the instructions that were in the box mentioning about the importance of the filter. The video and comment helps to understand it. Thanks again!

 

[80t0ylc]

So been home for a couple of weeks and got time and weather to work on the heater. It's working out better than I thought that it would. Wanted to hang the heater on the wall under the passenger side window, near where the LPG hose portal that I fabbed. I need to get a scrap of plywood and not rely on the paneling for strength. This little heater really warms up the cabin fast. I believe I'll be able to also use it under my AluCab awning with the wall kit setup.

The hose is a very useful length. With the tank outlet pointed towards front of trailer, it gives options of where I can set heater in cabin. If I wall mount the heater I can leave the tank outlet pointed rearwards which is the same config for running my cooking stove. It's long enough to reach the ground and point the heater toward the galley or to the space by the fender.

There's a real pucker factor when drilling a 3" hole in the side of your trailer hoping you don't hit anything in the walls such as wiring. Luckily it was just a ground connection. The insulation got damaged, but there was enough slack to be able to cut out the bad and install a butt splice fix.

Weather stripping and silicone on outside and fabbed up redneck trim on the inside. Cut a piece of foam rubber to sit inside the portal to keep out dust and small insects when traveling. Cut a slit in the foam and it can be crammed around hose to provide a seal during use of heater in cabin.

You can see foam piece inside black

 

[LINUS]

Those Mr. Heater / Buddy are no joke - I have one in my boat & even w/o the top up, you keep the floor area nice & warm!

I had a carpeted interior vertical footwell wall up by the DR & PS - I stripped the carpet & put AL diamond plate to reduce flammable material & mounted nine like yours w/ a remote C3 cylinder behind the PS (LS in most boats) - the same/close hose as yours, my regulator is on the cyl end like a BBQ but it was still some 6’ + of hose in the kit from Mr. Heater.

It’s super nice having hot air swirling on days you’re out before sunrise

 

[80t0ylc]

Those Mr. Heater / Buddy are no joke - I have one in my boat & even w/o the top up, you keep the floor area nice & warm!

I had a carpeted interior vertical footwell wall up by the DR & PS - I stripped the carpet & put AL diamond plate to reduce flammable material & mounted nine like yours w/ a remote C3 cylinder behind the PS (LS in most boats) - the same/close hose as yours, my regulator is on the cyl end like a BBQ but it was still some 6’ + of hose in the kit from Mr. Heater.

It’s super nice having hot air swirling on days you’re out before sunrise

Agreed! I'm impressed with this little guy! My brother in law, whose helped me with mods to this trailer was with me in Costco when we saw the heaters on sale, talked me into getting one. It's so versatile - I can even use it in my garage or in the house as a back up when the power fails. Of course it's limited, but strategically placed, it can make your life a little easier - especially when the chill sets in.

Now....what to do in the desert when it's 110*F in the shade and there is no shade..... Normal people would stay out of the desert at such times, but us 80 owners aren't normal

 

[80t0ylc]

I got to thinking when figuring on how I was going to hang the heater on the wall that the small plywood trim piece would be better if I just removed it and cut a bigger piece that would also support the heater, so that's what I did. The paneling is as thick as the plywood (3/8") so the section of wall under the window is now twice as thick and IMHO, beefy enough to support the heater when in use. Hose will reach propane tank in it's mount with no problem, whatever direction the fitting is facing.

Originally on the wall under the window there was a net pocket that I had removed and was going to relocate. Turns out it would still work fine except when heater was hanging on the wall. Just have to remove whatever was stored in it. Heater is above the mattress if I ever put the original queen size back in.

What it looks like finished with out heater.

I'm pretty pleased with the results. The heater doesn't impose too much into the sleeping area. Not as convenient or efficient as a forced air furnace, which is what I originally was leaning toward, but I think the Buddy is totally adequate and I think, more versatile since I can bring it out in the annex if I want.

 

[80t0ylc]

Just noticed an issue with the tires on my Ark XO750 Jockey Wheel tongue jack. On one the tread has actually broken and both have what I consider to be premature wear. The rating on the jack is 750 KG which is 1653 lbs and my tongue weight is no where near that. The only use the tires have seen is being pushed around my concrete driveway occasionally, so nothing out of the ordinary. I've emailed Ark and waiting for a reply. Here's a pic taken tonight, but shows the wear and broken tread.

 

[80t0ylc]

Ark was founded in Australia and I mistakenly contacted them 1st. They were ready to ship me new wheels 'free of charge" until they realized I was in the USA. Turned over to Ark USA and their reply was "Please send some images when possible and I will see what we can do for you." So should find out soon if Ark USA will honor the "home team's" intention.

 

[80t0ylc]

Ark eventually got the wheels in stock and shipped replacements, back in August I believe. I installed them and kept one of the original wheels as a spare - the least worn, of course. The one with the chunk out of it got pitched. Looking at the construction of the wheel, I think I've figured out what is happening. Grabbing the tongue to move the trailer causes the jack to rotate on both axis', - tires and jack shaft. On a hard surface (like my concrete driveway), the jack shaft rotation puts tremendous stress on the tires. The tires absorb this stress, especially if there is significant tongue weight. And with the design of my trailer's, axle location, there is at least 300 - 500 lbs of tongue weight, even empty. The more traction the jack tires have, the more stress they have to deal with during the jack shaft rotation. And these tires have a tread built into them for off road traction. This works negatively on them on a hard, dry, high traction surface. After study, it is obvious why the tread chunked like it did. The rubber is relatively soft and it's just pressed on to the steel wheels. The concept is very similar to turning the steering wheel in your rig, while it is standing still. On a hard surface, it wears rubber off the tires. On a softer surface, it leaves a divot in the tire marks.


So the verdict is: The tires on the Ark tongue jacks hold up much better on soft surfaces, like dirt or sand, than they do on solid rock or pavement. Despite this, I still highly recommend the Ark X0750 on an off road trailer!

 

[80t0ylc]

I've not been able to rely on my roof vent for keeping dust out of the trailer while towed on dirt. The vibration, gravity and wind have combined to close the vent past the point where the fan is operable. I even tried cutting wedges of foam rubber and stuffing on the edges, but they vibrate out and the lid comes down and shuts off the fan. So, I came up with a mod that hopefully will allow the fan to suck in relatively clean air and keep a positive pressure to keep dust from entering around door and window seals.

Rubber piece was cut off an air dam removed from my FX4

A filter to help keep air entering as clean as possible

Tuck rubber piece under rear edge of vent lid and adjust knob to tighten the grip to keep lid from vibrating

When not in use, it will not interfere with normal vent usage.

 

[80t0ylc]

One other change that I've made recently was to retire the wall kit for my Alu Cab awning. It was just too much of a hassle to use, unless camped for multiple days in one spot. Even then it took over an hour to set up and almost that long to pack up. I'll still use the awning for shade, especially for desert camps and hot weather disbursed camping when I'm solo and privacy is not an issue. I've replaced the wall kit with 2 Kelty Backroads Shelters. One for the galley and one for the P.S. door. Much quicker to set up and seals out rain better. The Kelty is very versatile and works well for many vehicle applications. They're sold out for awhile but available again on Amazon.

Amazon product ASIN B096SZH7PH

Some pics for clarity

 

[greentruck]

Great thread and learned a few things despite having no teardrop plans.

The Mr. Buddy video was the best example. We've got a Big Buddy and have used it successfully camping in October in Michigan's UP. We erect one of the pop-up awnings with walls over the rear of the 80, which has a tailgate tent enclosing the sleeping space. In the common room that the awning provides, the BIig Buddy does great and keeps us warm.

To help stabilize it on uneven camping grounds, I built a simple L-shaped holder thingee out of 3/4" plywood that the Big Buddy sits in. Clearance to the back is listed as OK for 0". Doesn't say anything about bottom clearance, but heat goes up, sooo....

The 3/4" plywood adds some useful weight to keep it safely upright, plus allows the heater to be relocated easily when the winds change.

 

[80t0ylc]

Great thread and learned a few things despite having no teardrop plans.

The Mr. Buddy video was the best example. We've got a Big Buddy and have used it successfully camping in October in Michigan's UP. We erect one of the pop-up awnings with walls over the rear of the 80, which has a tailgate tent enclosing the sleeping space. In the common room that the awning provides, the BIig Buddy does great and keeps us warm.

To help stabilize it on uneven camping grounds, I built a simple L-shaped holder thingee out of 3/4" plywood that the Big Buddy sits in. Clearance to the back is listed as OK for 0". Doesn't say anything about bottom clearance, but heat goes up, sooo....

The 3/4" plywood adds some useful weight to keep it safely upright, plus allows the heater to be relocated easily when the winds change.

Mike, if the Big Buddy does better than the size I have, and I imagine it does, makes all the difference camping in cooler weather. Also staying dry with the shelter from the wind and weather that the pop-up awning provides helps keep spirits up. The plywood holder sounds like a great idea. The Buddy heater that I have has a tipover safety switch in it so it'll shut off if it gets knocked over. But, it also seems like it would need help, if not placed on a stable flat surface, so thanks for the idea!

 

[80t0ylc]

An update on the mod I made for my top vent after a group trip to the WYBDR - it works great, with one exception. Crossing Idaho on I84 and I86 on my trip I hit significant winds that caused the vent to close and shut off fan. I may not have cinched the lid down tight enough thinking that I was on paved roads and that is probably why. Once I got it cinched down tight, the vibration of the Northern trails on the WYBDR had no effect and the interior remained dust free, despite the dust that was kicked up.

 

[greentruck]

The Buddy heater that I have has a tipover safety switch in it so it'll shut off if it gets knocked over. But, it also seems like it would need help, if not placed on a stable flat surface, so thanks for the idea!

Yeah, the tipover switch is a necessary evil and quite effective. It works great on a floored surface. The problem is that the Buddy heaters are kind of light and susceptible to easy knockover on uneven surfaces. With the L-board, it's more stable, and the tipover switch still functions if clumsiness still happens...

 

[Longmark999]

A couple more:

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Hi,

One of these Trail Heads just came up for sale locally, so I'm wondering how this camper has held up for you over the years?

Thanks in advance

 

[80t0ylc]

Hi,

One of these Trail Heads just came up for sale locally, so I'm wondering how this camper has held up for you over the years?

Thanks in advance

Thanks for your inquiry. The simple suspension design, despite being lightweight, has held up well, considering roads and trails traveled and loads carried. The mods done on the galley have helped considerably. If I have any reservations, it would be the wooden cabin frame’s longevity with the constant off road pounding and the water tank’s plumbing. The roof has held up well, despite all the climbing on it. I’ve had to replace the power center with a heavier duty 50 amp. It’s fairly heavy tongue weight due to the axle position, but excellent departure angle. It’s also fairly heavy to tow when fully loaded with gear. Recommend a mid or large SUV with V8 or turbo’d 6 cyl engine for mountainous driving. Not a trailer for tight trails, but more capable than you’d expect, for it’s appearance. Headroom in sleeping area plus height of doors, for someone my age (70 yrs old) makes for awkward access. Previous owner towed with a Jeep, and was not satisfied with it. Hope this helps.

 

[Longmark999]

Thanks for your inquiry. The simple suspension design, despite being lightweight, has held up well, considering roads and trails traveled and loads carried. The mods done on the galley have helped considerably. If I have any reservations, it would be the wooden cabin frame’s longevity with the constant off road pounding and the water tank’s plumbing. The roof has held up well, despite all the climbing on it. I’ve had to replace the power center with a heavier duty 50 amp. It’s fairly heavy tongue weight due to the axle position, but excellent departure angle. It’s also fairly heavy to tow when fully loaded with gear. Recommend a mid or large SUV with V8 or turbo’d 6 cyl engine for mountainous driving. Not a trailer for tight trails, but more capable than you’d expect, for it’s appearance. Headroom in sleeping area plus height of doors, for someone my age (70 yrs old) makes for awkward access. Previous owner towed with a Jeep, and was not satisfied with it. Hope this helps.

That's great information, thanks for that. Just for clarity, you haven't had any problems with the wooden frames or the water tank's plumbing, but you are concerned about how they will hold up in the future, is that correct? I wouldn't be overlanding with my trailer, but it would see some poorly maintained forestry service roads and so it wouldn't take a serious pounding. I've got a Lexus LX470 (same as the 100 series Landcruiser) so I think I've got enough vehicle to tow it, but feel free to chime in if you think it would put a strain on it.

Thanks again for the response.

 

[80t0ylc]

That's great information, thanks for that. Just for clarity, you haven't had any problems with the wooden frames or the water tank's plumbing, but you are concerned about how they will hold up in the future, is that correct? I wouldn't be overlanding with my trailer, but it would see some poorly maintained forestry service roads and so it wouldn't take a serious pounding. I've got a Lexus LX470 (same as the 100 series Landcruiser) so I think I've got enough vehicle to tow it, but feel free to chime in if you think it would put a strain on it.

Thanks again for the response.

Cabin frame, so far, has had no issues. Water tank’s plumbing is a different story. But I have the 12 gallon tank. Larger tank on newer models might be improved, though. Mine is a 2018. Your Lexus should be fine towing. Also, it should be fine on forest service type roads.

To be more specific about the tank’s plumbing, it started leaking due to a loose fitting, plus tank wasn’t secured by factory installation, which IMHO, caused the whole issue. Also it is difficult to winterize, because drain still leaves an inch of water in the tank due to design. Good luck if you decide to get the one available up there. All in all, it’s been a good experience for me!