2018 Three Feathers Mfg. 'Trail Head'

80t0ylc

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Recently, I was able to land a teardrop style trailer. It was listed in the classified section on ExPo. When I first noticed it, was in process of being sold, but I checked back and the buyer backed out. So I jumped on it and worked out a deal with the original owner. I currently own a CVT utility style of trailer that this teardrop will replace. In the build of the CVT, I added several mods keeping in mind that my goal was a teardrop, so I'm able to move some of them to this trailer. I've already moved the 270* awning, the off road trailer jack and will be setting up the MaxCoupler on it eventually. I got the wall kit with the AluCab awning and it works well with this trailer. Since the wall kit doesn't come with an inner wall, I'm in the process of fabbing some barriers under the trailer to help block the wind and other negatives of the exposed opening. I'll eventually post some pics when finished. They're made of 7/16 OSB and hinges, so they swing up out of the way for transport. Here's a couple of current pics. The rest are from the classified thread from the original owner.

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80t0ylc

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My under the trailer wind block project seems to have worked out as planned. I also like the additional privacy for when camping in areas with other campers. They fold up completely out of the way for transport and when deployed provide fairly secure under-the-trailer storage while camped with my 270* Alu-Cab Shadow awning and wall kit. It helps to keep a tidy campsite. They still need to be tested in the wind at a camp site, instead of in my driveway. Ignor the paint stains on the concrete...:rolleyes:

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80t0ylc

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I set up the awning and wall kit to get the full effect. My driveway has some slope to it, so it was a little challenge to simulate a level camp spot that hopefully it will be set up when camping. I used cinder blocks at the corners and door to simulate wall tent pegs in case the wind kicked up. Also used my driveway canopy concrete tiedown points as awning wall pole anchor strap tiedown points, since I wasn't willing to drill more holes in my driveway for pole stakes. ;)

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80t0ylc

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Since welding is not one of my skills, I hired my local welding & machine shop and supply to cut the original hitch off the tongue and drill holes to accommodate both the original cup & ball style or if I expect to tow in rough terrain I can instead, install my MaxCoupler hitch. (Wilson's Welding & Fabrication in John Day, OR.) The owner, Mitch has an excellent local reputation and has done work for me before. I trust his recommendations when it comes to high stress points like a trailer hitch and frame.

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80t0ylc

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The trailer came with a Mr. Heater BOSS (battery operated shower system), model XCW20 which was top of the line. However, and I was warned by the PO that it had some freeze damage. He had taken a quick look inside and saw a hole in the main heating manifold. But when disassembled, it was revealed that the visible hole was only part of the problem. Talking with their tech support on the phone, it was not repairable. Well, that was dissapointing. So I started looking at lesser models on line. I had an idea to get the middle model (XW18) and see what I could salvage off the XCW20 to use on it. That's just what I did and it turns out, quite a few things could be used to improve the XW18.

> The shower head with an on/off switch. So now I have a spare shower head.
> The intake/pump is the same so I have a spare pump.
> The XCW20 comes with a carrying bag, which I can still use.
> The propane regulator is the same so I have a spare.
> The AC charger is the same so I have a spare.
> A 12v cable comes with the XCW20, but not with the XW18 since there is no jack to plug it into. Mine is now modified to use the 12v cable.;)
> Misc other parts can be used if needed....screws, handle, faucet, & some electronics.

In testing it out in my back yard, I've learning some things that are good to know ahead of time - instead of pulling it out of the box when I'm camped and trying to figure it out.

> Don't install the propane regulator with the connection pointing up - the burner will not light - even with an extension hose from a 11 lb tank.
> The heater will only raise the water temp 40*F, so if using cold water from a creek or other source, use a 5 gallon can and run the output from the shower head back into the 5 gallon can (recycle) at least once, to heat up the water. When the "Overtemp light" lights up, burner shuts down because water pumped out of 5 gallon can is aprox 125*F and you have warmed the water as much as you can. You now have 5 gallons of water to shower with and that's plenty for a camp shower.
> If water stops, burner shuts off.
> On the XW18 if the burner shuts off for ANY reason, the main power switch needs to be recycled to restart the burner. I was hoping that using the shower head from the XCW20, that when shutting water off to soap up and then turning water back on to rinse off, that the burner would relight to keep heating the water. It worked that way on the XCW20, but not on the XW18. If I want to relight burner while in the shower, I'll have to reach outside shower stall and recycle main power switch. Not a big problem, but a little inconvenient. One reason why the XCW20 is top of the line.

My 23 Zero shower stall (not deployed) and 5 gallon shower can. I can set the heater & propane bottle on the fender. Hoses will reach with no problem.
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You can see in this pic while testing my new XW18 that I'm recycling the water back into the 5 gallon can to heat it up.
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With shower hose removed, it can be used for washing dishes or just a cup of hot water.
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My under the trailer wind block project seems to have worked out as planned. I also like the additional privacy for when camping in areas with other campers. They fold up completely out of the way for transport and when deployed provide fairly secure under-the-trailer storage while camped with my 270* Alu-Cab Shadow awning and wall kit. It helps to keep a tidy campsite. They still need to be tested in the wind at a camp site, instead of in my driveway. Ignor the paint stains on the concrete...:rolleyes:

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I like what you did with the under trailer wind block. I have camped at Pismo beach a couple of times and these would be a great addition there.
 

80t0ylc

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I like what you did with the under trailer wind block. I have camped at Pismo beach a couple of times and these would be a great addition there.
Thanks! The wall kit for the Alu Cab awning that I have leaves a lot to be desired for being able to seal up for insects or weather. And my wind block solution helps, but there is still gaps and is not sealed, but it's an improvement for privacy and knocking down wind gusts to a more tolerable level. It'll never be sealed for insect protection which has been a dissapointment since I purchased the wall kit. The awning, itself, has been a joy, though.
 

80t0ylc

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@ntsqd In my previous CVT trailer thread in post #7, you suggested getting and installing this DVSR and charging the trailer battery through a separate Anderson connector. Well I didn't get around to installing a battery or DVSR on that trailer, but have installed the DVSR and Anderson separate connector on this trailer, since it has a battery. I have the 12v still coming through pin 7 on the light/brake connector since that is what supplied 12v to any trailer that I connect to. I've studied the schematics that came with the DVSR, plus I down loaded all pertinent info on the DVSR I could find. My question to you is, should I disco the 12v through pin 7 when I connect the Anderson connector, or just leave it connected? I can't see any problem with leaving it connected, but just wanted to run it past you. The DVSR appears to be working fine with it the way it is, but don't want to cause any problems down the road, if you know what I mean. TIA for your help!
 

ntsqd

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Without knowing the exact wiring schematic I can't say for sure, but assuming that both wires are connected to the same place at both ends I don't see a problem. The 10 ga. will essentially be a trickle charger. If the voltage in the 10 ga. is dragged down far enough it may not do anything at all.
 

80t0ylc

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Without knowing the exact wiring schematic I can't say for sure, but assuming that both wires are connected to the same place at both ends I don't see a problem. The 10 ga. will essentially be a trickle charger. If the voltage in the 10 ga. is dragged down far enough it may not do anything at all.
Let me clarify. Both tow rig 12v sources for the trailer (exluding the tail lights) originate from my rear fuse block. So eliminating either is simple - pull the fuse. I'm running 10 awg to pin 7 through the trailer round connector and on the trailer it runs to the +12v bus which is directly connected to the battery. I added the new 8 awg from fuse block through the Anderson 6319 connector to the DVSR which then connects to trailer battery + post. Yesterday, when testing the setup, the DVSR's LED kicked in when engine was running. Voltage shot up at trailer batt immediately from 12.4 to 14.1 and kept slowly climbing as long as engine was running. Shut engine off, disco both trailer connectors and voltage drops to 13 point something slowly dropping with DVSR LED still lit until 12.8 volts. Then the relay audibly clicks and LED shuts off. All this seems to be normal after reading the DVSR material. My only concern is that with the original 10 awg connection through pin 7 connected, that it might affect the DVSR's ability to do it's job. I also ran an 8 awg ground through the Anderson connector from fuse block ground to the the trailer frame. There is a 4 awg from this ground point on the frame directly to the - post of trailer battery. So I'm pretty confident that ground is the same on both trailer and tow rig.
 

ntsqd

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The 10 ga. should be connected to the DVSR at the same place that the 8 ga. is connected. Running the 10 ga. direct to the battery bus takes the DVSR out of that charging path, something most do not want to do as now your starting battery is being drawn down by trailer loads when the engine is off.

When the engine has just been turned on what is the bus voltage at your TR's rear fuse block?
 

80t0ylc

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The 10 ga. should be connected to the DVSR at the same place that the 8 ga. is connected. Running the 10 ga. direct to the battery bus takes the DVSR out of that charging path, something most do not want to do as now your starting battery is being drawn down by trailer loads when the engine is off.

When the engine has just been turned on what is the bus voltage at your TR's rear fuse block?
I should've mentioned that I'm running an aux batt that runs the rear fuse block along with my winch. It's isolated from the starting batt. The voltage at the fuse block is very close to the aux batt at all times. I've run 8 awg to fuse block. I might lose 1/100th of a volt in voltage drop. So with engine running it's 14.1 or whatever the aux batt is. Sounds like I could pull the pin 7 fuse and let the DVSR do it's work. I'd only need to do it when towing this trailer. I'm not going to dig into the existing trailer wiring to alter pin 7's path. It's a 30 second job to pull the fuse. I've got mobile solar setups to charge both the TR's aux batt and the trailer batt when in camp. The trailer also has a shore power connection so it's nice to have 3 possible ways to charge it, now with the 10 awg replaced. The DVSR's purpose is to disco the TR's charge connection if it's not receiving a charge voltage, right?
 

ntsqd

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How easy would it be to move the 10 ga. on the trailer from the bus to the terminal that the 8 ga. is connected to on the DVSR? Then you wouldn't even need to pull the fuse or remember to put it back.
 

80t0ylc

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How easy would it be to move the 10 ga. on the trailer from the bus to the terminal that the 8 ga. is connected to on the DVSR? Then you wouldn't even need to pull the fuse or remember to put it back.
As I said before, I don't want to tear into the trailer wiring at this point. Maybe in the future if another electrical need arises I can "kill 2 birds with 1 stone". For now I'm good with pulling the fuse. Come to think of it, I"ll only need to pull the fuse if I leave the rig and trailer parked and left connected for an extended time. But, I do like your idea of combining the leads on the DVSR and not having to remember. It'll get done eventually. Thank you for your assistance and ideas! I appreciate your willingness to help!👍
 

Helipilot

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That unit is an almost exact copy of the Hiker trailer I chose. Hope you enjoy it oh your adventures!
 

80t0ylc

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That unit is an almost exact copy of the Hiker trailer I chose. Hope you enjoy it oh your adventures!
Thanks, Roger! You're welcome to post some favorite pics of your Hiker and/or a link to your build thread if you've started one. I noticed your post over in this thread. I've also seen your posts in Welcome to Veteran's Highway. After this covid-19 lockdown is over, if you're ever out in Oregon camping, look me up. I've also got an 11' Lance slide in camper for the back of my F350. I'm retired and single. So not much room is needed to haul my butt around on trips.:rolleyes:
 

80t0ylc

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How easy would it be to move the 10 ga. on the trailer from the bus to the terminal that the 8 ga. is connected to on the DVSR? Then you wouldn't even need to pull the fuse or remember to put it back.
Had time to look at this today and it pleasantly turned out much easier than anticipated. There wasn't much modifying to do once I realized that most of the pigtail wires terminated in this box which is basically a sealed up terminal strip. You can see the pigtail feeds into the lower front:

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Identified it with my meter. No other wires were involved. The wire went straight to the + post of the batt. Disco'd from batt and rerouted over the tongue:

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To the DVSR:

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The wire from the terminal strip to the DVSR is 12awg which doesn't concern me now, with the 8 awg through the Anderson connnector that I installed. Using a larger gauge would be pointless since the pigtail is 16 awg. At least now, I don't have to rely on it to charge the trailer batt while traveling.
 

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