Builds 2018 GCC Spec 79 Series 1HD-FTE + H152 - The Camel (1 Viewer)

[SNLC]

Nobody will ever believe that is factory Toyota. The welds are too pretty

But it’s far from factory Toyota.

Cheers

 

[TonyP]

You'd have to be very deep in the Land Cruiser weeds to know a factory wide nose FTE/H152 70 series doesn't exist.
That's 40 Series grill territory

 

[SNLC]

I lied, few more pics.

Super happy with how the 79 radiator fits in the 80 frame. Couldn’t ask for much better than this.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Fantastic work on the mounts. So what are you working with on the width difference of an 80 vs a 79? Looks like 4 or 5 inches but I'm not sure if the information I am finding is apples to apples. Just curious.

So in the front it’s actually pretty close, like within 1/2”. The rear not so much, due to the coil vs leaf spring suspension and WMS of 79 to 80 axles in the rear.

See if I can take some more exact measurements over the weekend and post them.

Cheers

 

[Travis 76]

Nothing beats a 0 mile drivetrain.
So cool.

 

[SNLC]

So some typing.

At first glance after fitting it all it looks like both trans mount-crossmember and engine mounts need to move a little bit. Twelve different ways the slice this and everyone should/will have their own way. In my shop, we have ours and that is....

Line it up to the radiator. If you watched the longer video above I talk about this. 80-series trans crossmember, 80-series engine mounts it’s sitting on, firewall to bellhousing, trans shifter for H152 FTE in 1GR H150 hole, not to mention custom chassis as far as width, arch, ect. Then you have about six different oil pans on your 1Hx engine platforms as well. Currently we are running a HDJ79 Aussie spec pan iirc.

Fuel tank is another issue. We are good, as seen in earlier pics we are having to “cut & notch” the stock under cab 79 tank. I think maybe if you stretch the frame in the \ / section, say behind the trans crossmember like most folks do you may not have this issue. Honestly though, three chops in, I really feel we got it down now in my shop. Everybody has their way, this is how we are doing it though in my shop and pretty happy with it as well.

Crossmember we added is right on top of the front chop, we obviously decided to only fish plate it on the inside. Few reasons for that, Toyota as noted across many series of Cruiser chassis, did it this way. Also, our internal reinforcement plate is outside rail, as you can see the crossmember goes through inner and outer frame rails. The crossmember is 1.5” x .188 wall dom, 3/16’s wall more or less. The rear cut is plated over by the RLCA mount.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Ha! Ok good... I thought I might be missing something obvious.

Alright, I am sure you see the differences in 80 vs 70 coil design?

I feel the 70 is focused on strength more, it’s beefier all the way around. The 80 is designed around lighter duty and comfort more.

As far as the front core support body mount crossmember, it’s been like that since 1984. Also as mentioned earlier in the thread, 70-series steering boxes mount forward and swing back, opposite all other Cruisers. This steering box as seen earlier in the thread mounts right up against this front crossmember. I think when Toyota designers went coils on a 70-series in 1999 they redefined the older coil design, made it more compact but also made it a bit stronger than the older 80 design or worse Prado design. The panhard mount being separated from the steering box mount takes massive stress off the frame in this area, that is the main difference in 70 vs 80. A problem with 80’s that share the same mount and space/location on the frame. IE, they crack. In addition to this the 70 design of front crossmember/body mount tied in the tow points and front bumper. So it’s all around fairly beefy and suited to the higher valance/grill (nose) to frame height on a 70 vs say and 80 or 100/105.

Plus 70-series coil sprung front panhards are 1.5” diameter vs an 80’s 1.25” diameter. All around the 70 is designed significantly more beefy. Less travel though by design in the shocks.

Cheers

 

[fl4031003]

Doesn’t the AC condenser fit between the core support and radiator? This might require a bit over 2 inches slide back on the motor/trans?

 

[Indestructible 47]

You'd have to be very deep in the Land Cruiser weeds to know a factory wide nose FTE/H152 70 series doesn't exist.
That's 40 Series grill territory

This build is seriously a work of art and Ian and his team are doing awesome work but, whilst this statement may be true in the US, it's probably not a fair statement to apply to those of us over here in aus. But I have to say, I'm not aware of an FTE being built as well and extensively as these ones are coming out of this shop. Amazing.

 

[TonyP]

This build is seriously a work of art and Ian and his team are doing awesome work but, whilst this statement may be true in the US, it's probably not a fair statement to apply to those of us over here in aus. But I have to say, I'm not aware of an FTE being built as well and extensively as these ones are coming out of this shop. Amazing.

Most people in the US don't know the difference between a Land Rover, Land Cruiser or a 4Runner. Nevermind the several dozen 70 series nuances.

 

[janyyc]

Most people in the US don't know the difference between a Land Rover, Land Cruiser or a 4Runner. Nevermind the several dozen 70 series nuances.

To most people anything that is boxy and looks like it could go off-road is a *eep!

 

[SNLC]

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Cheers

 

[jomelo]

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Cheers

@SNLC the bed looks really high in this photo. Dump bed?

 

[wngrog]

@SNLC the bed looks really high in this photo. Dump bed?

Scissor lift.

 

[SNLC]

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Cheers

 

[sr5pickup]

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Cheers

I’ve got these oem flares for my truck as well. They’re the best looking option IMO vs the cut snakes (don’t like the exposed fasteners). I didn’t realize until I got them that it required the bed to be trimmed. I like the look of the bed as is, but the wheel/tire poke out is almost borderline excessive. Still debating on whether or not I want to run them.

 

[SNLC]

I’ve got these oem flares for my truck as well. They’re the best looking option IMO vs the cut snakes (don’t like the exposed fasteners). I didn’t realize until I got them that it required the bed to be trimmed. I like the look of the bed as is, but the wheel/tire poke out is almost borderline excessive. Still debating on whether or not I want to run them.

Chop chop!





Cheers