2013 Valley Leak @85K Miles! (2 Viewers)

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Oct 23, 2014
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Over the past few months, I have noticed the coolant overflow tank in our 2013 LC emptying out about once a month. I looked high and low and wasn't able to find any leaks, but a couple of weeks ago, I finally noticed a pink drip under the truck in the garage.

I got underneath and saw pink veins of dried coolant coming down the side of the transmission housing, and immediately thought about the posts I've read on Mud about the dreaded valley leak. Figured that had to be the culprit.

I decided to take the truck to SD Trux in San Diego. I had read good reviews about their work, and felt good about my decision when I pulled up to see 6-7 Land Cruisers in their lot.

The day after drop off, they sent me this...

leak.png


Needless to say, there was some work do to. I had them take care of the leak and replace the radiator/hoses/serpentine belt too. My radiator had "the crack" at the top, even though it wasn't leaking from there. Figured I might as well get it done.

I've had it back now for a week, and have driven maybe 200 miles. Everything seems buttoned up rock solid, but i'm definitely a bit surprised / bummed to have had this problem at such low miles. We have babied our cruiser, but have now had rear main seal leaks (twice) and this valley leak. We just hit 85K.

Overall, I think the guys at SD Trux did a great job. Although fixing the leak set me back about $1400 (not including the other stuff), I feel like it was a fair price given how much had to come off the top end to fix it. The mechanic that did the work is one of the owners, and said that fixing these valley leaks is among his least favorite jobs. Having watched a few fixes on YouTube, I can see why.

With this work now in my rear-view mirror, I'm hoping we get a bunch more trouble-free miles out of our legacy rig.

If you're in San Diego County, and need some TLC for your rig, I'd recommend SD Trux. I'm going to have them install the Bilstein 6112 shock/spring setup from AJ USA on our new cruiser, but am going to pause for a bit to give my wallet a break first.
 
I can definitely recommend SDTrux. I have been taking my trucks there on and off for more than 13 years.

My truck had the coolant valley leak before I got it at 60k. It looked very similar to yours. Glad you got it fixed.
 
Having done this job on a few 3UR's I can attest to it not being a fun job. You do get pretty good at it after a while. The worst part is the air pump bolts, there is absolutely no space. From what I've noticed, there does not seem to be trend on a mileage range of when the valley plate begins to leak. The ones I've done have had between 50-250k. I will say this, I prefer doing this job when comparing it to resealing the camshaft towers. Not overly technical, but it will take two to three days depending on how clean everything is.
 
Over the past few months, I have noticed the coolant overflow tank in our 2013 LC emptying out about once a month. I looked high and low and wasn't able to find any leaks, but a couple of weeks ago, I finally noticed a pink drip under the truck in the garage.

I got underneath and saw pink veins of dried coolant coming down the side of the transmission housing, and immediately thought about the posts I've read on Mud about the dreaded valley leak. Figured that had to be the culprit.

I decided to take the truck to SD Trux in San Diego. I had read good reviews about their work, and felt good about my decision when I pulled up to see 6-7 Land Cruisers in their lot.

The day after drop off, they sent me this...

View attachment 2563111

Needless to say, there was some work do to. I had them take care of the leak and replace the radiator/hoses/serpentine belt too. My radiator had "the crack" at the top, even though it wasn't leaking from there. Figured I might as well get it done.

I've had it back now for a week, and have driven maybe 200 miles. Everything seems buttoned up rock solid, but i'm definitely a bit surprised / bummed to have had this problem at such low miles. We have babied our cruiser, but have now had rear main seal leaks (twice) and this valley leak. We just hit 85K.

Overall, I think the guys at SD Trux did a great job. Although fixing the leak set me back about $1400 (not including the other stuff), I feel like it was a fair price given how much had to come off the top end to fix it. The mechanic that did the work is one of the owners, and said that fixing these valley leaks is among his least favorite jobs. Having watched a few fixes on YouTube, I can see why.

With this work now in my rear-view mirror, I'm hoping we get a bunch more trouble-free miles out of our legacy rig.

If you're in San Diego County, and need some TLC for your rig, I'd recommend SD Trux. I'm going to have them install the Bilstein 6112 shock/spring setup from AJ USA on our new cruiser, but am going to pause for a bit to give my wallet a break first.
Bummer sorry to hear. Tough pill to swallow after replacing the RMS twice. Hoping you now get to enjoy thousands of trouble free miles for years to come. Anything out of the ordinary that caused the RMS to go bad twice?
 
I never ever ever got my 3FE and 2FE oil pans and rear main seals to not leak. Full rebuilds, brand new pans, OEM sealant and parts, etc. I'm not looking forward to having leaks in my 3UR, but it won't be new to me and Landcruisers :confused:
 
Bummer sorry to hear. Tough pill to swallow after replacing the RMS twice. Hoping you now get to enjoy thousands of trouble free miles for years to come. Anything out of the ordinary that caused the RMS to go bad twice?
I think the dealer didn't fix it correctly the first time. The initial repair held for about a month, then I started noticing drips in the garage again. I actually had to rant much harder than I thought I would to get them to fix their work, only 30 days later.

You would think they'd just own up to it and make it right, but they tried to pretend like it must be some other kind of issue warranting another $2500 repair bill.

Not!
 
What is the latest model year someone has heard of this happening on a 200 series?

I've seen a Google hit on an affected '14 Tundra with 3UR-FE but hits go dry on later model years. It seems hits on 1UR-FE (4.6L) with same issue dry up after that model year as well.

Did Toyota/Lexus finally address the issue at factory sometime in 2014-2015 period?
 
I suspect this is what I just found on my 2013 at 99,820 miles. Was underneath looking for where I could run an air line to the rear, looked up and saw pink just above the rear edge of the factory skid. Thoughts?

IMG_2263.jpeg
 
This is a common issue with the 1UR-FE 4.6L in the Lexus GX460 as well. I have my fingers crossed that this issue won't impact the later year models but I fear that they are just too new for the issue to have reared its ugly little head in anything newer than 2014 at the moment. It sucks that this issue is such a PITA to repair and slightly costly at that.
 
This is depressing to say the least. However I really apricate the knowledge and info being shared out there so you can be proactive instead of reactive. I will be doing a thorough flash light inspection on my 2013 with 54k miles that I have only had for 6 months when I get home tonight!
 
460s are rare. I had no coolant issues on my '12 460 through ~60k miles but it almost immediately had a oil leak on the front cover. I think it was he first one my dealer had done, and I was none too happy to be first. But other than taking twice as long it was fine and not a single other issue up to when it was traded for the 200.

I'm surprised Toyota continues to use FIPG...
 
Not so rare on the 460's, there are a few on this forum dealing with it now, one with barely 80K miles on the clock.
 
Oh, sorry, I meant 460s themselves are rare, not that the coolant leak on the 4.6 in 460s is rare :) Landcruisers are also rare, but the 5.7 is much more common in regards to a sample set, even if they are built in different countries. Although I guess Tundras also have the 4.6, I just never see them in my area.
 
Are there instructions on ih8mud or youtube available? I think I may be suffering the same leak and I'd like to repair it myself. Are their instructions in the FSM for this repair?

This has some info but not complete

EDIT: I found this
and this
 
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