2013 Landcruiser 200 series Turbo Diesel Entry System Failure (1 Viewer)

[Warmtone]

Hi I'm a new member of the forum and live in Melbourne Australia.

My usually reliable Landcruiser (which I have owned and serviced from new) has developed an unusual problem with the two FOB keys not suddenly recognised. The car starts normally with the FOB pressed against the start button. Doors have to be opened with the mechanical key.

Key Batteries are new and battery condition confirmed in a recent diagnostic scan.
Surprisingly there are no Entry System or other error codes for the vehicle confirmed with a recently purchased Launch (Toyota) X431 scanner. I have tried a cold reset with main batteries removed - no change. I have checked fuses with a multimeter but all seemed ok.

There appears to be a communication error between the main computer and the module that mediates between the keys and the CPU/door sensors.

Here's a dump from the Launch X431 (Toyota) scanner:

Key Low Battery No
EFI/EV Receive NG
EFI/EV Communication NG
Lock request receive NG
Lock/Unlock receive No
Master Key Match
ID Box sleep condition No
Lcode check OK
ID Code difference No

All coding for the keys appears to be OK (Vehicle id , rolling code etc) and the engine starts normally with the key fob pressed against the starter switch
I suspect a possible loose connector or failed EntrySystem receiver/transmitter and trying to find out where this module is located?

This is tough one to find!
Any constructive assistance with fault rectification appreciated.

 

[bloc]

What year is this vehicle?

Best I can tell, at least in US market vehicles the important part is called the certification ECU. I'm attaching a picture of where the FSM says it is located. See the red circles. I'm assuming it's a mirror image for RHD vehicles.

 

[TheComedian]

Hi there fellow diesel driver.
There should be in Tech stream as well a test for all the piezo receivers you can click through with the car beeping if it receives the key signal.

Maybe the receiver for the drivers door has a problem (you have if I remember correctly at least 6 in the car. One in each door, one under the shift knob - but that one has as I saw in my case nothing big to do with opening and starting and is only for teaching keys so far -, on in the middle of your trunk and one located to your rear hatch.)
Are the other doors and the rear hatch recognize your keys properly?
And I saw on my 200 as well that the entry system gives you probably for nothing error codes. My receiver under my shift knob was disconnected and I was working around on kinda everything for like more than a year to teach a new key and there was no error that this one wasn’t connected… I even pulled the eprom data before…

So at first I would check for the piezo receivers since it is so far the easiest part to check

 

[Warmtone]

What year is this vehicle?

Best I can tell, at least in US market vehicles the important part is called the certification ECU. I'm attaching a picture of where the FSM says it is located. See the red circles. I'm assuming it's a mirror image for RHD vehicles.

View attachment 3805181

Hi thanks for the response above apologies for the late response I have been away on holidays and just returned.

My vehicle is a 2013 VX model and has been trouble free since new apart from the issue with the entry system.
I cannot visualise the diagram against car locations - is this looking at the dashboard area?
Looks like I need to get hold of a good repair manual with this one it is complex!
Can you recommend anyone for good workshop manual?

 

[Warmtone]

Hi there fellow diesel driver.
There should be in Tech stream as well a test for all the piezo receivers you can click through with the car beeping if it receives the key signal.

Maybe the receiver for the drivers door has a problem (you have if I remember correctly at least 6 in the car. One in each door, one under the shift knob - but that one has as I saw in my case nothing big to do with opening and starting and is only for teaching keys so far -, on in the middle of your trunk and one located to your rear hatch.)
Are the other doors and the rear hatch recognize your keys properly?
And I saw on my 200 as well that the entry system gives you probably for nothing error codes. My receiver under my shift knob was disconnected and I was working around on kinda everything for like more than a year to teach a new key and there was no error that this one wasn’t connected… I even pulled the eprom data before…

So at first I would check for the piezo receivers since it is so far the easiest part to check

Hi thanks for your advice - I am trying to get Tech stream running on an old windows laptop having wasted days trying top get a MacBook to work.
I could not get the USB communication to work as drivers were not possible to locate for this legacy windows operating system.
Yes Techstream may uncover more detail and I will report back once I get the laptop going.

To be clear none of the doors will open with the FOB key - not surprising as there is no communication happening - presumably with the certification module which must control all entry options. I am using the mechanical key to enter the vehicle which is a PITA having to constantly remove the key from the FOB.
Also the panic alarm function is also dead when this button is pressed on the FOB.

 

[TheComedian]

Hi thanks for your advice - I am trying to get Tech stream running on an old windows laptop having wasted days trying top get a MacBook to work.
I could not get the USB communication to work as drivers were not possible to locate for this legacy windows operating system.
Yes Techstream may uncover more detail and I will report back once I get the laptop going.

To be clear none of the doors will open with the FOB key - not surprising as there is no communication happening - presumably with the certification module which must control all entry options. I am using the mechanical key to enter the vehicle which is a PITA having to constantly remove the key from the FOB.
Also the panic alarm function is also dead when this button is pressed on the FOB.

Ok. But you can start they vehicle with holding the fob to the start button? If yes then it is rly likely something wrong with the signals and not the key module itself since the key also just wirelessly transfer his codes to it the same way it does if you hold it to the rfid/nfc module build in the starting button.

You tried to run a winXP sandbox on your Mac?

 

[Warmtone]

Update: Well I purchased a Dell Windows 11 laptop and loaded up the Oracle VM running Xp with Techstream installed using the link from this forum.
This time the OBD dongle worked through a legacy usb hub.

Everything was looking good but the software would not connect to the vehicle or accept the registration key provided. A message came up Software Expired! Very frustrating indeed.

I spent an hour with my Launch Toyota X431 and discovered a bit More: The master “switch” for the Entry System was shown as Off - all transmitters were also Off so no wonder there is no communication with the FOB. I could not find a function on the X431 to turn the Entry System switch ON.
At this point I have decided to pay Toyota to run a full diagnostic check to figure out if I have a dead module or possibly a weird configuration issue.
I will report back. If the module has failed it will be expensive as it is buried inside the dashboard.

I still want to get Techstream running and trying to find a version that works!
Help!

 

[bloc]

Update: Well I purchased a Dell Windows 11 laptop and loaded up the Oracle VM running Xp with Techstream installed using the link from this forum.
This time the OBD dongle worked through a legacy usb hub.

Everything was looking good but the software would not connect to the vehicle or accept the registration key provided. A message came up Software Expired! Very frustrating indeed.

I spent an hour with my Launch Toyota X431 and discovered a bit More: The master “switch” for the Entry System was shown as Off - all transmitters were also Off so no wonder there is no communication with the FOB. I could not find a function on the X431 to turn the Entry System switch ON.
At this point I have decided to pay Toyota to run a full diagnostic check to figure out if I have a dead module or possibly a weird configuration issue.
I will report back. If the module has failed it will be expensive as it is buried inside the dashboard.

I still want to get Techstream running and trying to find a version that works!
Help!

Most of the techstream installs we work with will need a separate program run before TS that generates the key. In my case it’s called “Toyota launcher.” This application also tripped a bunch of antivirus warnings in windows but I suspect that’s just part of how all this works.

Maybe see if yours has something similar.

 

[Warmtone]

Update: Well the vehicle has been returned to Toyota for a Techscan diagnosis.
Here is what 'they found:

1. Their diagnosis was the same as mine highlighting an underlying communication issue between main CPU and Key Module.
Unable to remotely open and close doors - engine starts oK with FOB against starter button.
Could not get entry system working even with Techstream
2. Found rain ingress into a junction box on the passenger side of the vehicle behind the glovebox with major corrosion.
Advised cable installed incorrectly by factory exposing junction box directly in the path of windshield drainage (!)
3. Found water ingress issues in the driver's side A pillar - apparently vehicles like mine with a sun roof has drainage tubes that are routed through the A pillars the drain tube can block up and then leaks water on to critical connectors (!)
4 Advise the dashboard will need to be removed to provide a full quotation to rectify above issues
5. The cost to repair is likely to exceed AU$5000 with $3000 to just remove/install the dashboard (!)

The Entry System fault remains and now appears to be directly resulting from corrosion at various cable connectors due to a combination of a factory assembly error and running hidden drainage tubes (that are subject to blocking) then dump water onto electrical connections inside A pillars.

I am disappointed that a vehicle that has been kept in pristine condition, garaged with only 100,000 km (60,000 miles) and costed around $100.000 (when new) cannot apparently cope with normal hand washing and rain.

Constructive advice welcome.

 

[bloc]

You are not alone. There are dozens of other posts here about corrosion from water ingress, either from sunroof drains clogged letting it spill over into the headliner then down into the foot well, or from a leak between the windshield and plastic cowl cover funneling water directly into the fresh air inlet and onto the passenger floor board.

As for advice.. that’s tough, especially already at the shop. People here have documented the foot well issue and how to address it. You could maybe try doing that and see how much of the issue remains, before letting them pull the dash out.

 

[Warmtone]

Bloc - thanks for your response above......
I wish I had been aware of this earlier I would have obviously taken preventative steps.
It is clear from your response this is in fact a design/build issue yet local Toyota working on my car indicated they had only seen one such case in years of servicing these vehicles. However an independent Toyota repairer took about 10 seconds to figure out that water ingress was probably due to blocked drainage tubes from the sunroof - they also told me the Toyota connectors corrode quickly (tin plated) and pins can break.
It's not just the cost and inconvenience, but disappointment in Toyota not addressing this quality control issue after in my case 5 years of production.

 

[Warmtone]

Update 2: The dealer has contacted Toyota to see if they are prepared too assist with the above fault rectification and Toyota has requested the dealer provide a quotation outlining the required scope of work ( labour and materials). I am advised the dealer wants to replace two harnesses that terminate inside the A pillar (drivers side) and a junction box as well as removing the dashboard to install the new harnesses.

So it looks like the communication issue that is causing the Entry System to fail is corrosion from water ingress into the A pillar region due to sunroof draining pipe being blocked causing leakage.

The key issue as advised the Toyota dealer s the required two harnesses are no longer made by Toyota (!). So they can't provide a quotation.........
Personally I find this hard to believe as this model ran until 2020.

I will obtain part numbers tomorrow but is there a chance that new harnesses are available in the US for a 2013 Landcruiser VX Turbo diesel?
I will get my car back tomorrow and post some pictures.

 

[Workhorse]

Do you have the part numbers for the harnesses you need? Sometimes these crossover and sometimes they don't. I would imagine that if these are not diesel specific, they might. Post the harness part numbers and part names and we can try to help crosscheck them. Ya never know what you might find out.

 

[linuxgod]

Update 2: The dealer has contacted Toyota to see if they are prepared too assist with the above fault rectification and Toyota has requested the dealer provide a quotation outlining the required scope of work ( labour and materials). I am advised the dealer wants to replace two harnesses that terminate inside the A pillar (drivers side) and a junction box as well as removing the dashboard to install the new harnesses.

So it looks like the communication issue that is causing the Entry System to fail is corrosion from water ingress into the A pillar region due to sunroof draining pipe being blocked causing leakage.

The key issue as advised the Toyota dealer s the required two harnesses are no longer made by Toyota (!). So they can't provide a quotation.........
Personally I find this hard to believe as this model ran until 2020.

I will obtain part numbers tomorrow but is there a chance that new harnesses are available in the US for a 2013 Landcruiser VX Turbo diesel?
I will get my car back tomorrow and post some pictures.

The US didn’t get a diesel version, so if the connector is specific to the diesel then you’ll have to look elsewhere. Hopefully it’s generic to all models though.

 

[Warmtone]

Do you have the part numbers for the harnesses you need? Sometimes these crossover and sometimes they don't. I would imagine that if these are not diesel specific, they might. Post the harness part numbers and part names and we can try to help crosscheck them. Ya never know what you might find out.

Thanks for your help.
I ill be talking tp the Service Manager today and will try and get the part numbers and report back.

It seems customers like me who shelled out $100K plus for a lagship LC with sunroof are stuck with a very poor design / build issue that becomes an expensive ticking time bomb.

As an aside my old 80 series GXL (1990) donated to my son in 2013 with 540,000K kms on the clock is still going strong. I have booked a camping holiday in March in South Australia and will end ups using the old girl! Ironically I purchased the 200 series LC for "peace of mind" thinking it would be more reliable(!)

 

[bloc]

The harnesses are specific enough that when you check the parts diagrams it just says to read the tag on the harness itself. Plus there were changes through the years like in the US we got an 8-spd transmission in 2016, and other electrical updates in 2018. So it's not surprising to me they wouldn't stock dozens of each of those numbers.

There was a time when mechanics were expected to be skilled enough to repair harness issues.. you'll probably have to find one of those people.

 

[linuxgod]

I’ve got wire strippers and some electrical tape…

 

[AcmeSys]

I spent an hour with my Launch Toyota X431 and discovered a bit More: The master “switch” for the Entry System was shown as Off - all transmitters were also Off so no wonder there is no communication with the FOB. I could not find a function on the X431 to turn the Entry System switch ON.
At this point I have decided to pay Toyota to run a full diagnostic check to figure out if I have a dead module or possibly a weird configuration issue.
I will report back. If the module has failed it will be expensive as it is buried inside the dashboard.

Dumb question- are the fob batteries good? Install a brand new fresh battery (Panasonic preferred- tons of crappy chinese counterfeit coin cells sold online), wait a minute, remove it, wait 30 seconds, reinstall battery. Some fobs need some reboot loving after being dead for a while. No idea why.

Your scanner said the entry system is OFF/disabled- give this a shot before you gut a harness and drop serious $$$ --
Not sure what nav screen model you have but with ignition ON and engine not running (double tap start stop without hitting brakes)
SETUP (physical button)-> VEHICLE (soft key)->VEHICLE CUSTOMIZATION (soft key available with IGN ON and not running)->DOOR LOCK SETTINGS (soft key)->Key System with Elec. Key (you have to scroll down to this) -> ON -> RETURN -> SAVE (Wait while saving).

 

[Warmtone]

Dumb question- are the fob batteries good? Install a brand new fresh battery (Panasonic preferred- tons of crappy chinese counterfeit coin cells sold online), wait a minute, remove it, wait 30 seconds, reinstall battery. Some fobs need some reboot loving after being dead for a while. No idea why.

Your scanner said the entry system is OFF/disabled- give this a shot before you gut a harness and drop serious $$$ --
Not sure what nav screen model you have but with ignition ON and engine not running (double tap start stop without hitting brakes)
SETUP (physical button)-> VEHICLE (soft key)->VEHICLE CUSTOMIZATION (soft key available with IGN ON and not running)->DOOR LOCK SETTINGS (soft key)->Key System with Elec. Key (you have to scroll down to this) -> ON -> RETURN -> SAVE (Wait while saving).

View attachment 3842599

The FOB attery was replaced - when the vehicle got booked in for an entry system failure Techstream diagnosis.
It was a bit of a debacle - the dealer blew a fuse on my main battery that charges a second battery via an isolator relay and damaged the second FOB key - presumably they attempted a recoding and screwed up(!)

Unfortunately my l2013 ancruiser does not have the smart capabilities shown above.

I have been using a Launch dedicated X431 diagnostic tool which is Toyota specific to determine status.
There are no error codes but clearly major communication issues with the door entry system essentially dead. All door transmitters also in the off state.

To dig deeper and because I cannot get Techstream working on my PC - I requested Techstream diagnostic from the dealer to find the fault and. in particular verify if the key certification ECU was working ok - but despite holding on to the car for a week this was not provided. They did indicate the problem was due to extensive corrosion with replacement of cables/junction boxes quoted at $20,000 plus another $3000 for dashboard removal. I have pushed back. on the basis that the vehicle does mot meet acceptable standards for design and construction noting the dealer claims the issue is due to water ingress from the sunroof which I now understand is prone to blocking. However there is no obvious signs of water damage from sunroof blockage . The dealer has lodged a warranty claim - but I doubt Toyota will support it.

I decided to independently verify the story from the dealer as I have a holiday booked in March.
Observation: The entry system issue is restricted to opening and closing doors via the FOB. The vehicle starts normally with fob against start button and immobilises as expected. All car electrical functions are normal - no error codes or blown fuses.

I have checked all harness junction boxes in the A pillars (5) that were claimed to be "extensively corroded" and in general they appear to be in excellent condition with very minor evidence of corrosion. However one junction box did have a serious issue (photos to follow) with a small section of 6 pins looking seriously corroded in one corner. There also appears to be a missing pin due to corrosion or possibly a short.

It looks like the dealer has inserted a bypass wire for the missing pin - but no mention of this work being done in the report. Despite cleaning this connector and with the missing pin bypassed the entry system fault remains. If a short I has occurred I worry this may have taken out the key certification ECU.......

To be clear, the above connector wit a missing pin issue refers to the top harness connector on the passenger side of the vehicle - (LHS in Australia) located behind the A pillar where there are 3 big connectors n total. Strangely, the bottom 2 connectors were fine. Again no signs of discolouration from water to connectors or carpet. The harness connectors on the drivers side were in good condition with very minor blue oxidation deposits that was easily removed with contact cleaner.

I'll post photos shortly - but if anyone can confirm whether the above connector in question carries the comms or battery voltage from the key ECU would be appreciated.

 

[Warmtone]

OK some photos
1. General condition of connectors some minor blue deposit which was removed by contact cleaner
2. Passenger side A Panel connectors - all look pretty much as new.
However the top connector was faulty as shown in 3.
3. Close up of affected pins on top harness socket - this is the bottom LHS of socket. Note one pin is missing (!)
These corroded pins may explain why the entry system is not working?