Haha that was a failed mission before I even left the house. They politely referred me to a smaller hardware store! The quest continues.
might play with some jb weld if I get inpatient in my search.
2010 LX570 Armrest broken (1 Viewer)
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might play with some jb weld if I get inpatient in my search.
i think you got the idea. do post pictures for future reference.
Success! Solved a 1st World Problem... Okay I went to a specialized hardware store(Ace Blackhawk Hardware, Charlotte, nc) that had some very smart and seasoned employees.
After a $1.15 investment and some tinkering and lots of head scratching o now have a fully operational armrest again!
In the next couple posts I’ll attempt to explain my process, materials and or any tips.
After: functional armrest but still a huge hole in seat cushion. Cant believe there aren’t any aftermarket seat cover options in grey perforated leather?????
Before: armrest had fully come undone, unbeknown to me it was just a silly little broken plastic post... had initially thought it was gonna be a much bigger deal to fix or even replace.
After a $1.15 investment and some tinkering and lots of head scratching o now have a fully operational armrest again!
In the next couple posts I’ll attempt to explain my process, materials and or any tips.
After: functional armrest but still a huge hole in seat cushion. Cant believe there aren’t any aftermarket seat cover options in grey perforated leather?????
Before: armrest had fully come undone, unbeknown to me it was just a silly little broken plastic post... had initially thought it was gonna be a much bigger deal to fix or even replace.
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Step 0: open it up... pull the armrest off the base. If still quasi attached play around with a long pick, stick, screwdriver or a long rigid zip tie to get it to release. super hard to explain but aim your utensils of choice near the shiny metal, which is closer to the outside near the seat. I did this from the backseat stabbing towards the front of the car while peeping under armrest with a headlamp. Very tricky and frustrating, but eventually you’ll be victorious.
Once off, Flip armrest upside down and remove the 8 screws and use a trim removal tool to release the plastic underside from the top side. I’ve placed the screws near where they came out.
Once off, Flip armrest upside down and remove the 8 screws and use a trim removal tool to release the plastic underside from the top side. I’ve placed the screws near where they came out.
step 1: identify if it’s the plastic post that broke off. And if it is still present. The post goes inside the “flipper/flapper” that a silver screw goes into from the top of the flapper.
The post snapped off from the base, basically making the spring and flipper loose inside the armrest lid. The screw will still be attached to the flipper and the broken post will remain inside the flipper. Take a needle nose and hold the post while unscrewing get the screw from the flipper.
If the base and post seem mostly there and salvageable, you can consider jb welding it, but this may not be a long term fix. I did it and then reverse my decision once I found parts.
here was my temporary jb welding. Probably would hold for a while. Was pretty hard to snap back off once I found the hardware. Try not to leave too much at the base, wipe excess off before it cured so it doesn’t interfere with the smooth rotation of the flipper.
If the base and post seem mostly there and salvageable, you can consider jb welding it, but this may not be a long term fix. I did it and then reverse my decision once I found parts.
here was my temporary jb welding. Probably would hold for a while. Was pretty hard to snap back off once I found the hardware. Try not to leave too much at the base, wipe excess off before it cured so it doesn’t interfere with the smooth rotation of the flipper.
Step 2: get hardware... this was challenging. When I went to the store and asked for an elevator bolt, they took me to a bin of what looked like carriage bolts. But once I showed them the tiny screw and flipper and explained what I was try to do he got creative.
looks like I ended up getting a 13/64x5/8 black anodized aluminum screw and post.
While you’re there see if they have a plastic or nylon washer that fits inside the bottom larger flipper opening where the original post was. The washer ideally would fit inside there without friction and would have a large enough hole to allow the née screw you’re buying to go in, barely clearing the threads. If you can’t get the washer have no fear, there’s a mcgyver option, more on that later...
Here’s the vision of how the new parts align to the original engineering by Mr T
Actually the new black parts should be reversed... the threaded part replaces the broken post, and the tube female end will go through the top of the flipper.
looks like I ended up getting a 13/64x5/8 black anodized aluminum screw and post.
While you’re there see if they have a plastic or nylon washer that fits inside the bottom larger flipper opening where the original post was. The washer ideally would fit inside there without friction and would have a large enough hole to allow the née screw you’re buying to go in, barely clearing the threads. If you can’t get the washer have no fear, there’s a mcgyver option, more on that later...
Here’s the vision of how the new parts align to the original engineering by Mr T
Step 3: do some drilling.
A. Fist we drill a hole in the lower armrest base to allow the new threaded black screw to go through where the original post was. This is fairly easy to find where to drill since there is a circular indentation, aim for the middle of that. Once the hole is drilled slide the screw upward from the base of armrest and attach you snug plastic nylon washer over the threads. Mine is pink and homemade from the top of an almond milk jug I found in our recycling bin because I was stuck in the house and couldnt get to hardware store due to a family commitment. I don’t recommend this, it was silly, frustrating and a terrible use of time but I was inpatient. I now have an appreciation for the cost of small washers!
In this picture you can imagine how ultimately the flipper will go over that screw sticking up through the pink washer, and then the new female black tube will go on top and through the flipper...
B. Test and determine if the black tube/ female part of the new hardware fits through the top of the flipper with enough clearance to smoothly spin without friction... but should be tight enough that the flipper doesn’t rattle around loosely. Mine needed a bit of surgery with the drill to make the hole on top of the flipper big enough to accept the female tube smoothly.
Note the size diameter difference between the silver screw and the née black tube... Hence why we needed to drill the flipper a bit
A. Fist we drill a hole in the lower armrest base to allow the new threaded black screw to go through where the original post was. This is fairly easy to find where to drill since there is a circular indentation, aim for the middle of that. Once the hole is drilled slide the screw upward from the base of armrest and attach you snug plastic nylon washer over the threads. Mine is pink and homemade from the top of an almond milk jug I found in our recycling bin because I was stuck in the house and couldnt get to hardware store due to a family commitment. I don’t recommend this, it was silly, frustrating and a terrible use of time but I was inpatient. I now have an appreciation for the cost of small washers!
In this picture you can imagine how ultimately the flipper will go over that screw sticking up through the pink washer, and then the new female black tube will go on top and through the flipper...
B. Test and determine if the black tube/ female part of the new hardware fits through the top of the flipper with enough clearance to smoothly spin without friction... but should be tight enough that the flipper doesn’t rattle around loosely. Mine needed a bit of surgery with the drill to make the hole on top of the flipper big enough to accept the female tube smoothly.
Note the size diameter difference between the silver screw and the née black tube... Hence why we needed to drill the flipper a bit
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Step 4: reassemble, spring, flipper and née black hardware.. ensure it smoothly rotates and that it’s spring loaded.
you’ll need to insert the spring around the base of the flipper and attach the long part to the little holder in the side of the base of the armrest and the bent shorter end around the top of the flipper while trying to screw the new black aluminum pieces together. You also must thread the shorter bent arm of the flipper the rough the large opening of the base of the armrest. See pic.
Once all bits are in place test out the handle on the left side of the pic above... confirm that when u pull the handle up, that the internal arm pulls the flipper towards the handle, rotating it counter clockwise.. then upon release it should snap back due to the spring. If it doesn’t keep finessing the parts, because they might not be lined up or in the right position.
you’ll need to insert the spring around the base of the flipper and attach the long part to the little holder in the side of the base of the armrest and the bent shorter end around the top of the flipper while trying to screw the new black aluminum pieces together. You also must thread the shorter bent arm of the flipper the rough the large opening of the base of the armrest. See pic.
Potential step 4.5: I didn’t do this but am kinda wish I had. Possible try to do a test fit onto the armrest console while the pad is still off. This is obviously temporary but would be possibly helpful to see how it all goes back together before trying to do it blindly once the armrest pad makes clearance and visibility near impossible.
Step 6, you’re so close but be ready to curse and think it was all for nothing...
first off notice the metallic letter T springy thing... apparently you pull that out and when released it recoils. This allows u to surprise people when u lift you’re handle shooting the armrest forward into you large drink in the cup holder...
You should pull that metallic tape spring out a bit and connect the tee to the bracket at the front of the lid.
try to line up and slide the armrest back onto the console... not gonna lie this was difficult for me.. i think the key is keeping it quite level and almost flush as u slide it on while holding up the handle.
I somehow got it installed where the back wasn’t down all the way and it was super tricky to undo it and eventually I looked from the backseat and jabbed a long screwdriver toward the silver tape spring while holding up the handle and pulling... eventually it came off.
I then made sure it was flush and level and kept trying until it was on...
Voila, a write up for a very frustrating and common problem due to poor overengineering of an armrest.... why it needs to slide forward is confusing and why the driver and passenger need this option is baffling.
hope this helped someone, my first contribution to 200 tech. Probably should have created a new diy tech thread... oh well
first off notice the metallic letter T springy thing... apparently you pull that out and when released it recoils. This allows u to surprise people when u lift you’re handle shooting the armrest forward into you large drink in the cup holder...
You should pull that metallic tape spring out a bit and connect the tee to the bracket at the front of the lid.
try to line up and slide the armrest back onto the console... not gonna lie this was difficult for me.. i think the key is keeping it quite level and almost flush as u slide it on while holding up the handle.
I somehow got it installed where the back wasn’t down all the way and it was super tricky to undo it and eventually I looked from the backseat and jabbed a long screwdriver toward the silver tape spring while holding up the handle and pulling... eventually it came off.
I then made sure it was flush and level and kept trying until it was on...
Voila, a write up for a very frustrating and common problem due to poor overengineering of an armrest.... why it needs to slide forward is confusing and why the driver and passenger need this option is baffling.
hope this helped someone, my first contribution to 200 tech. Probably should have created a new diy tech thread... oh well
many thanks to nwfl4runner and joyRidaz for the great instructions! saved me a bunch of time + money and made the repair easy -- other than the removal of the armrest and attachment of the spring on re-installation (both were tricky)
a couple added notes from joyRidaz's instructions above:
a couple added notes from joyRidaz's instructions above:
- i only had to remove 6 screws on my armrest to disassemble
- ordered binding barrel & screw # 94887A317 from mcmaster-carr (~$9) and worked perfectly. shipping was also $9 but saved driving around to more hardware stores. there's another part # 95519A705 that's cheaper ($2.50), but the thread engagement is less so used the more expensive one
- i didn't have a nylon washer but the mechanism moved pretty freely even with the post tightened down, so left that part out. hopefully doesn't get sticky
- used a 7/32" drill bit on the flipper and the fit was just right
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
Man been a minute and I don't have access to mine right now. I just recall it was moving back and forth, and using a pick to move a tab underneath out of the way. Sorry that I can't be more helpful!
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
front the front
Anyone know where I can get a replacement spring? My brother broke my armrest and the spring is missing
Few guys were asking about getting the arm rest off. I used a 24 inch zip tie. Insert it from the front, out the rear. Then start working in back and forth towards the center (metal clip) of the arm rest.
Anyone know where I can find a replacement spring? The binding and screw suggested by bgardner work perfectly, now I just need to find the right size torsion spring. They’re kind of pricey so I’d really appreciate some guidance if someone has had to procure one themselves.
Looks like legs should be 1.5” long or more. External diameter of lever appears to be 0.475”, so maybe torsion spring internal diameter 0.5”?
Guidance would be much appreciated by myself and surely others!
Looks like legs should be 1.5” long or more. External diameter of lever appears to be 0.475”, so maybe torsion spring internal diameter 0.5”?
Guidance would be much appreciated by myself and surely others!
This guy tells you exactly which part to get from McMaster-Carr to replace the broken plastic post and it works PERFECTLY! Thanks bgardner!
To those looking for a replacement spring, I have found something that worked for me with some adjustments. Had to get something from eBay so I can't give a part number and links will die eventually, but here are the specs of the spring that worked for me:
One thing I did not have control over is the winding direction of this spring. Not sure whether this is "Left" or "Right" winding, but this was the wrong one for my passenger-side armrest. It worked with the bends you see in those pictures, but it would have been easier (and probably stronger) if I had gotten the other winding direction. Also noteworthy, I believe this winding direction would have been perfect for my driver-side armrest.
P.S. If you are having trouble finding a compatible spring, try looking up "Small V-Shaped Torsion Springs." That may turn up some more options.
To those looking for a replacement spring, I have found something that worked for me with some adjustments. Had to get something from eBay so I can't give a part number and links will die eventually, but here are the specs of the spring that worked for me:
- 1.5mm Wire Diameter
- 16mm Outer Diameter
- 3 Coils
- 60% Angle
One thing I did not have control over is the winding direction of this spring. Not sure whether this is "Left" or "Right" winding, but this was the wrong one for my passenger-side armrest. It worked with the bends you see in those pictures, but it would have been easier (and probably stronger) if I had gotten the other winding direction. Also noteworthy, I believe this winding direction would have been perfect for my driver-side armrest.
P.S. If you are having trouble finding a compatible spring, try looking up "Small V-Shaped Torsion Springs." That may turn up some more options.
Does anyone know how to swap the whole armrest? I have a new one, not sure how it mounts.
What’s the fsm got to say on it? I saw a section for taking out that dahs, maybe there is similar for the console.
