2010 LX570 Armrest broken (1 Viewer)

[TTO5]

My 2010 LX570 has a console without the cooler box option and the armrest is broken. My truck uses a split console armrest with each side being adjustable (lift the plastic handle up and slide the armrest where you want it. The left armrest comes all the way off and does not lock into position so it slides anytime you give forward motion with your arm on it. Looks like a whole new console lid is about 1,000 (too much for me). Anyone have any experience with this part breaking and what are my options? color is grey. Looking for suggestion, thanks

 

[nwfl4runner]

i shall now save you money. The pivot for the plastic lock is probsbly broken and there is no replacement part. Pull up and slide arm rest forward, use pick to release the locking tab and remove arm rest.

Disassemble - it’s clips and a few screws

The picture below is what is broken. Forget plastic glue - worthless. Buy an elevator bolt and a nylock nut, drill out the hole and the plastic bit that broke and use the bolt. Grind the bolt head as flat as possible and sand down the hidden plastic in the arm rest where it glides so it doesn’t rub. Reassemble. Stupid plastic

This was sent from my phone so not as detailed but let me know if you need more. Easy fix!

 

[TTO5]

yes, please send more pictures. I would appreciate it. How do you get the armrest back onto its base after that piece is reattached? also I don't have the spring that goes around that piece (flipper) that broke off. any extra comments or details would be appreciated. It looks like on mine a piece on the base is also broken, not sure how that will impact operation. I know that the front right corner of the armrest pad moves up and down when pressing on the armrest (not sure why that is. ) I will post some pictures shortly. thank you so far

 

[grinchy]

The other option is to push it back all the way and pin it with a screw from underneath.

 

[TTO5]

May take the screw it from underneath option. Here are some more pics of mine.i wonder if any junkyard has a console lid? Not sure what is missing from this CAVITY that has 2 holes in it.

 

[nwfl4runner]

Most of the pictures I took are unfortunately different angles of the one I posted, but if you send me your email i'll send you what I have.

Not recalling right off the top of my head what might be there, but I do believe that with a spring and that piece attached, it's actually that arm that locks and holds the arm into place. If you secure that (and get a replacement spring), it should hold. I ran the bold directly through that piece, Lowe's sells those elevator bolts that are the correct size. I don't have the exact size but they are called Torsion Springs, and you can find them online. (Grainger has some). I'll post a close up of how the spring is shaped

 

[TTO5]

AWESOME. my email is dabz28@yahoo.com

do you remember how you reattach the armrest to its base after fixing the flipper?

 

[nwfl4runner]

push back in while holding the handle up, it will slide right into place

 

[TeCKis300]

I haven't looked closely at the broken part.

Just an idea, but there's a whole cottage industry of putty products out there. Some ridiculously strong that you can use to rebuild or fix that part with. Lookup "epoxy putty stick" on Amazon.

 

[TTO5]

OK, Thanks, I will hopefully have this fixed soon

 

[TTO5]

Can you expand on the sand down hidden plastic part?? not sure where you mean for this to happen?
also, confused about the drilling part, don't I just need a bolt that fits the hole in the flipper part? (your words, drill out the hole and the plastic bit that broke). what is the plastic bit that broke ( the flipper part? ) , thanks again, just need a little more direction

 

[nwfl4runner]

yeah - on mine the flipper itself was fine, but where the screw attached it to the armrest itself inside had broken. I drilled straight through, used a bolt and nut to hold the flipper back in place, but the bolt head is proud of the plastic, so I ground it down so that it was as flush as possible. Turn the armrest upside down and you'll see the gap that is present as it slides back and forth. Wherever the bolt head touched, I sanded down a little to give it more space.

 

[TTO5]

OK, Thanks

 

[TTO5]

any idea where to get a spring, I looked through all my loose parts and stuff but don't have one

 

[TTO5]

Ok after looking closely I see the process you used. I just don't have the spring which is crucial from what I can see. If you don't mind please send pictures of the spring if you can. If easier my email is Dabz28@yahoo.com. thanks

 

[TTO5]

Found these on grainger website. Not sure if i need left hand or right hand wiring. I measured the outside diameter of the cylinder part of the plastic flipper and got 8.15mm or .324 INCHES. When you click on the actual spring more details come up. One of the specs is maximum rod diameter which I am thinking is what would be the center of the spring diameter or where the cylinder part of the flipper would go. At 10 bucks a bag I don't want to order too many. Thoughts?

Torsion Springs - Grainger Industrial Supply

When it comes to Torsion Springs, Grainger's got your back. Easy online ordering and next-day delivery available with 24/7 expert product support.

www.grainger.com

 

[nwfl4runner]

I believe you read it to be the maximum rod outside diameter to be the width of the thing the spring goes around. If so, they should work perfectly if they are the right size. One end (lower end) just sticks straight out. The upper end is just turned into a hook to go OVER the arm of the flipper (see my pic above). The spring doesn't need to be very strong, just strong enough to pull the handle mechanism back down. That's exactly what you need, and should fix it all up!

 

[TTO5]

Cool. Just ordered a few different ones and I will send back what I don't need. Stay tuned and thanks so far.

 

[TTO5]

Sorry to beat a dead horse but when I looked up elevator bolt it does not show a philips head (it shows just a thin flat wide head. Also there appears to be a square section just under that flat head, how did you deal with that?
here's one for example

Elevator Bolt Grade 2 Steel 1/4-20 x 1" - 3801 | LawsonProducts.com

Elevator Bolt, Flat Countersunk Head, Grade 2, Steel, Zinc Finish, Coarse Thread, UNR Thread Form, Square Neck, 1/4-20 x 1 - 3801

www.lawsonproducts.com

 

[nwfl4runner]

On mine, the shaft that is attached to the armrest that holds the flipper on had snapped. I tried gluing it back and then screwing the top in, but none of that worked. Instead i just used an elevator bolt and nut in place. Do you have a picture of the inside of yours (like my pic above)?