2008-2018 Radiator Failure and Public Service Announcement
- Thread starter jclarke450
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bloc
SILVER Star
Mine were basically factory-new at ~125k, and I’ve seen others post similar.
Still.. yours do seem bad. Maybe worth softening my stance on it being more of a risk to disassemble things to inspect.
Also makes me wonder what’s different. Year of yours? Mileage? Mine is a 13
You must have driven those miles in a controlled environment.
To keep track on numbers for our discussion with Toyota here:
Our 2013 developed “the crack”. It was identified yesterday. I changed my 07 Tundra radiator some time back which is a similar unit—but for a different issue (core leak). Frankly at over 14 LCs and 17 Toyota 4WD in my family history, 7 mine, these are the first plastic and non-copper rads I’ve worked with. Not a fan.
However, a few observations.
1) not sure the lightly smeared painting of part info on the flat is anywhere close to a culprit.
2) the underneath really doesn’t appear to look like a thin or weak point at this crease.
3) watch next time u change a belt or wires or plugs where your hand rests to make the reach.
Our 2013 developed “the crack”. It was identified yesterday. I changed my 07 Tundra radiator some time back which is a similar unit—but for a different issue (core leak). Frankly at over 14 LCs and 17 Toyota 4WD in my family history, 7 mine, these are the first plastic and non-copper rads I’ve worked with. Not a fan.
However, a few observations.
1) not sure the lightly smeared painting of part info on the flat is anywhere close to a culprit.
2) the underneath really doesn’t appear to look like a thin or weak point at this crease.
3) watch next time u change a belt or wires or plugs where your hand rests to make the reach.
With my reservoir being empty, any issues driving the 20 miles to the shop? I don’t have any coolant on hand to put in.
bloc
SILVER Star
The issue seems to be more of a stress riser at the crease than the material being thin. The change in design seems to support this theory, as that crease was changed to a much more gradual curve.
And this is happening to pretty much all of these trucks.. I’m confident it is a design issue and not people pressing on the area with their hand.
Engine and radiator must be cold before opening the radiator cap. Because you said your over flow reservoir was empty, that means that the crack still has enough of a seal to cause a vacuum to pull the remaining fluid back into the radiator. Use a flashlight and look into the radiator and there should be enough fluid to just cover the core so you can see the amount remaining. If you add water to the radiator, just remember how much. If you have to add more than a couple of cups of water to cover the then someone else needs to do an inspection for a leak lower in the cooling system. You only need to cover the core when the engine is cold.
Now this is the important part because you are now going to be running a non pressurized cooling system with a crack at the top of the radiator. You can leave the radiator cap off completely which may spray more coolant onto the engine from ram air as you drive. I would use the safety system built into the cap by installing the cap then loosen the cap about a 1/4 of a turn. The cap will come to a stop and have a bit of a rattle/loose feel but will not come off until you push down on the cap and rotate another 1/4 of a turn. This half way stop is to safety design implemented a long time ago to decrease the explosive release of pressurized hot liquid from a normal operating system. Put the cap on and off a couple of times until you know it is on and locked but no additional rotation to tighten. As the engine heats up the fluid will expand and not build pressure. Excess fluid will push past the standing radiator cap and into the over flow reservoir but will not get drawn back in as it cools. No pressure in the system is the goal.
In this condition, your cooling system will not cool as well so do not run the A/C, pull a trailer or load that may need that extra cooling ability of a pressurized system.
So heater T's a small issue for 200s?
I changed mine when I replaced the radiator at 65k, but I probably didn't need to as they looked good. They are only $8-10 each so it really wasn't a big deal. Since the radiator on these trucks seem to be failing at 120k on average, maybe just plan on replacing the tees at that time?
bloc
SILVER Star
I opened mine up and didn’t end up replacing them. As mentioned my originals were perfect, but also the replacements from toyota (part numbers gained from this forum) would have fit but weren’t an exact match and just didn’t seem as high quality as the originals. Material, molding marks, etc. Whatever was on there was working so well I didn’t want to change anything. Fearing the replacements might be more closely related to the 100-series parts that had so many issues I just put it back together with the originals and planned to check them in another 50-75k.
bloc
SILVER Star
Which engine? Most posted here would be the 5.7 but I’m not sure how that could contribute to the problem other than total heat put into the system.
Usually before you have a leak the crack will extend past the square area to the right a little. I’d think you have some time.
The engine is a 5.7 on a GXR Model, same like the Lexus 570. But here in UAE most LCs are 4.0 V6 or 4.7 V8.....not so much 5.7 to see around
Let´s see...this summer feels like starting early with high tempratures...
That's interesting that the new part is different. I realize it is not a specific replacement for the LC, but thought it was the same part. Do you have a side by side comparison? I still have my originals and they look good. I will hang on to them just in case.
Back from the shop.
Coolant is just above “L” in the reservoir, though. Should I (pick up some and) add more?
bloc
SILVER Star
When fully warmed up or with a cold engine?
Warm.
