2008-2018 Radiator Failure and Public Service Announcement (5 Viewers)

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Getting my cracked radiator changed out today. Pretty disappointing this hasn't been superseded by something without a flaw in the design.
put it behind you and don't think about it for another however many miles you have.
 
Thanks for the heads up guys. So far, we don't seem to have seen this in Oz yet. Could it be that we are predominantly diesel drivers with our 200s? Should/could it make any difference?
 
Has anyone found any improved heavy duty radiator options yet? Or is the Toyota design fault rectified yet?
 
The new radiator I put in looked the same as the old one....but I can't say if internally there was any new reinforcement in that area or not....
 
This is what one guy with an 09 diesel on LCOOL has written. I haven't checked mine yet as it is tucked away in the shed but would guess it would be the same part number as below.

"And this is stamped in the top tank of the diesel, which I assume is the part number...PA66+PA612-CF30. totally different than the petrol version."

Not sure if it would, or could be fitted to the petrol version or if it is any better but may be worth looking into.
 
I'm leaning towards a "denso" brand radiator rather than the oem... Why buy the same brand if you know it is a defective part? And has a history of cracking at the exact same location?

We have a 2002 highlander owned it since new with 190K and original radiator and doesn't leak a drop...if it cracked
Tomorrow I would not hesitate to buy an oem replacement just bec. It has served well for 15 years and proven itself.

For those who have replaced there's with a denso radiator pls. Post up your experience as far as fitment and performance.
 
I'm leaning towards a "denso" brand radiator rather than the oem... Why buy the same brand if you know it is a defective part? And has a history of cracking at the exact same location?

We have a 2002 highlander owned it since new with 190K and original radiator and doesn't leak a drop...if it cracked
Tomorrow I would not hesitate to buy an oem replacement just bec. It has served well for 15 years and proven itself.

For those who have replaced there's with a denso radiator pls. Post up your experience as far as fitment and performance.
Installed a Denso last weekend. Fit was perfect. Too early to tell if it will have problems, but looks identical to the factory unit.
 
I went with the Murray one due to time constraints. It is of equal quality to the OEM from what Greg @ Trollhole's could tell. It has the same dumb stamping area in the top mold. Next time around will be a custom aluminum rad and be done with it if there isn't a non-plastic solution on the market by then. Hopefully that will be a looooooong time down the road.
 
Installed a Denso last weekend. Fit was perfect. Too early to tell if it will have problems, but looks identical to the factory unit.

Good to know that the fitment was not an issue as they do advertise guaranteed fitment...does it have the same raised
Stamped area where it is known to crack?
 
Good to know that the fitment was not an issue as they do advertise guaranteed fitment...does it have the same raised
Stamped area where it is known to crack?
Identical to OEM, including the stamp area. This time around, I'm going to replace my coolant every 50,000 miles and see if that helps.

If not, it's really not that hard to replace every 100K once you are familiar with the procedure. Much less work than replacing the water pump or, even worse, the starter.
 
I went with the Murray one due to time constraints. It is of equal quality to the OEM from what Greg @ Trollhole's could tell. It has the same dumb stamping area in the top mold. Next time around will be a custom aluminum rad and be done with it if there isn't a non-plastic solution on the market by then. Hopefully that will be a looooooong time down the road.


Identical to OEM, including the stamp area. This time around, I'm going to replace my coolant every 50,000 miles and see if that helps.

If not, it's really not that hard to replace every 100K once you are familiar with the procedure. Much less work than replacing the water pump or, even worse, the starter.



Interesting that the raised stamped area is present on all 3 different brands OEM,Denso and Murray. TYC anyone?
Is it possible that all come from one manufacturer? one molding? what are the chances of it being a coincidence that the raised stamped area is in that same location and maybe the same flaw...I guess time will tell...
 
Well looks like the joke is on me. My OEM replacement I had put in last December has lasted about 11k miles. It was too dark last night to take a picture but it looks to be a failure in a different location. I will know more later.
 
I see the thread title refers to 08-10 cruisers (with one 11 checking in) and that the radiator part numbers changed in the 13 refresh. Can anyone confirm if the 13+ radiators were strengthened or if this was addressed? Or is it that the trucks haven't aged to the point that these cracks may develop? Thanks
 
My MY12 URJ202R 4.6L petrol 60,000 miles has a very faint crack.
Also seeping at joint between top tank and core just under foam.
Current replacement part is 16400-50413.
 
I see the thread title refers to 08-10 cruisers (with one 11 checking in) and that the radiator part numbers changed in the 13 refresh. Can anyone confirm if the 13+ radiators were strengthened or if this was addressed? Or is it that the trucks haven't aged to the point that these cracks may develop? Thanks

There is a mud member who has a '13 that had a failed radiator. Maybe he will chime in, but I don't think the new part number has any physical changes. It appears the majority of failures have been '08-'10 simply because they are the oldest with more miles. I may look at the Denso alternative when I change out mine as preventative maintenance some day. Anyone know the Denso part #?
 

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