2007 LC100 – SAS Replaced, Still Stuck at 1150°, Now ABS Light On (3 Viewers)

[joshestes]

Hey all, I could use some help or confirmation here before I take this to Toyota and brace for the bill.


I’ve got a 2007 Land Cruiser and recently started chasing down a clicking in the steering column. That led to removing and ultimately replacing the clock spring. After doing that, my VSC TRAC and VSC OFF lights came on, and I started digging deeper.


I replaced the steering angle sensor (SAS) with one I bought on eBay (Toyota part 89245-33010), which came bundled with a clock spring and both stalks. I carefully centered the new clock spring (and later tested both it and my original one), verified that the SAS was engaged and rotating with the column, and reassembled everything carefully.


Here’s what I’ve done:

• Confirmed the SAS rotates properly with the steering wheel
• Verified all plugs are connected with no bent pins
• Ran Techstream > Zero Point Calibration successfully (multiple times)
• Cleared all DTCs
• Ran a full deep reset (battery disconnect, ABS fuse pull, ECU drain)
• Tried both the original and eBay-supplied clock springs
• Checked live data in Techstream

Symptoms now:

• No active DTCs, but live steering angle is stuck at 1150°, no change while turning the wheel
• ABS light is on, but no ABS code shows in Techstream
• TPMS light came on at the same time
• VSC lights are now off, which confirms the system sees the SAS

I’m frustrated, because it seems like this SAS is simply outputting garbage data — even though it’s brand new (to me). I don’t want to keep throwing parts at this, and I’m hesitant to drive without ABS. I’m considering taking it to Toyota, but figured I’d post here first in case anyone’s seen this exact situation or has a known-good 89245-33010 they’d recommend.

Previously seen DTCs C1335 and C1777

Any help appreciated.

 

[Bisho]

@2001LC

 

[2001LC]

Interesting
Can you tell us more about your 07LX:

• Miles
• Clean or rust bucket.
• Accidents
• Stock height or lifted.
• Any mods of any kind.
• Any add-ons'. Especially where any wiring added or changed.
• Spillage in center console.
• Replacement windshield.
• Any water entry into cabin.
• What work if any was perform, before any DTC or clicking.
• Any AHC or VGRS issues. Cross level and pressures at what.

You did clear zero point before setting. You were sitting level.

You'll also need go into VGRS after clearing all DTC and ZERO point cal. Make sure to clear HISTORY all Flags REC (recorded) in VGRS. They must read Unrec.

 

[joshestes]

Just over 100,000 miles now
clean
no accidents
stock heigh with AHC (sensor lift)
MODS: Bigger tires, replaced bumpers, rock sliders, complete stereo overhaul with VLine2 wireless android auto
TPMS was disabled by shorting two wires together with a T-Tap
Someone did a hack job under the steering column. Looks like they were trying to fix or disable the telescopic wheel function (and it is)
no spillage in the center console from me but i've only had it a couple months
no replacement windshield yet (scheduled for next week)
Someone left out a roof rack bolt and the car wash water came in through the driver's side foot well
no work was done. I heart the clockspring ribbon cable rubbing on it's plastic housing (just ready to break fully when i took it apart)
No AHC or VGRS issues before this, I was just tracking down the sound to the clock spring and it's grown into this larger issue. There were no warning lights on the dash before this.
It was sitting completely level in the garage for this

 

[2001LC]

Are you a mechanic, season DIY or first time wrencher?
Any wrenching experience with 100 series, before this?

Just over 100,000 miles now
clean
no accidents
stock heigh with AHC (sensor lift)

Not stock height, if a sensor lift has been "done". When sensor lift done. I add King AHC coils and 10mm or 20mm spacer (donuts on tops of coil springs). This bring AHC rear pressure back down to near ~5.8Mpa. While adjusting front sensor, to get a minimum of 3/4" rack (stink bug look).

MODS: Bigger tires, replaced bumpers, rock sliders,

So add weight and sensor lift. I assume turned T-bar adjustor's, to cross level and T-bar adj CW turns, to take AHC pressure down to 6.9Mpa..

complete stereo overhaul with VLine2 wireless android auto

Carefully I hope. Not over crowding wiring behind head unit.

TPMS was disabled by shorting two wires together with a T-Tap

I really hate to see factory wiring touched. Or toys added. Personally, ripe it all out and take all back to factory.

Interestly. Not sure yet this is repeatable. But in using the TPMS button near Divers left knee. I got lights to go off, with five dead sensor (dead batteries)

Someone did a hack job under the steering column. Looks like they were trying to fix or disable the telescopic wheel function (and it is)

Tele motor in 50% 06-07 aren't working. I replace tele motor. If wire has been altered (hack) I'd get back as should be (factory)

no spillage in the center console from me but i've only had it a couple months

Often times there aftermarket wire and spillage in center console. It best to get in there and clean it up. IIRC the YAH rate sensor is in there.

no replacement windshield yet (scheduled for next week)

I hate installer. I remove and install all molding myself. I make sure the paint any nicks the do to paint under windshield and molding. If has been replace by PO. Check for rust. Study up on our windshield and install. It is a big deal. The installer so often cause water/air leaks and rust from nicking paint.

Someone left out a roof rack bolt and the car wash water came in through the driver's side foot well

We always watch for any water. We're concerned with water under dash and footwell side behind kick molding. We have LH & RH junction boxes. Water in these areas cause very strange issue (gremlins). Can total (insurance) a 100 or 200 series and has. Roof rack leak, don't often get to these areas.

no work was done. I heart the clockspring ribbon cable rubbing on it's plastic housing (just ready to break fully when i took it apart)
No AHC or VGRS issues before this,

Previously seen DTCs C1335 and C1777?

I was just tracking down the sound to the clock spring and it's grown into this larger issue. There were no warning lights on the dash before this.

Make sure to: Go though tech stream, VGRS and calibrate steering also. You clear all DTC and all flags first.

It was sitting completely level in the garage for this

Good.
Reset

Then ZPC

 

[joshestes]

Thanks for a detailed and actionable response!

and haha no, I'm no mechanic. First 100 series LC. I'm not shy in the garage though.

The rear sensor lift is maxed out, the front could be adjusted even higher if I actually adjusted the threaded rod, but I've only relocated one end to the top of the bracket. A torsion bar tightening is on the immediate to do list. And I plan on doing the King rear shock replacements and spacers very soon.

The factory navigation system is still in place, Vline is tucked neatly into the glovebox. Wiring is clean and not crowding at all.

I agree I hate bastardized wiring, but couldn't stand staring at a TMPS light forever, and putting tape over it is a no-go. The sensors have been removed and It's too expensive to replace them. I couldn't get the light to stay off by disabling it in Techstream, nor could I get the TPMS buttons to do anything other than make the already annoying TPMS light flash at me.

Thanks for the tip on the glass install. I will be there to make sure they do it correctly, and now I know what to watch out for. I am not comfortable doing that job myself but I respect you being that person!

So, to clarify, no dash lights present until I replaced the clock spring. That's when both VSC lights came on. I then got my TechStream all setup and saw code C1335 and C1777. That led me to replace the SAS which cleared the VSC lights, but introduced me to the ABS warning light, and the TPMS came back on, frustratingly. I've done 2 things to disable that light now, and it's back again.

I'm new to techstream so your screenshots are CRUCIAL. THANK YOU! I will get in the garage tonight and give it another go. I did not do the steps you outlined so I'm hoping that clears the false 1150 reading from the new SAS.

And I will come back and update this post and not let it sit for years unresolved.

 

[joshestes]

I don't think my US-based 2007 Land Cruiser is equipped with VGRS. It's not an option in TechStream and I'm running the same version you are.
This time I did a full health check on all ECUs, got a few obvious ones for the airbag since it's not installed at the moment. Cleared all DTCs, checked all ECUs and there are 0 active DTCs. I ran the ZPC again and it completed. Then I ran the test mode. It made the VSC light flash, but the ABS light stayed solid. The steering angle sensor is still reading 1150. I guess this new-to-me ebay SAS is broken too? IDK. The ABS light didn't show up until I plugged this one in. I've got an appointment with Toyota in a few weeks but I'd like to have this sorted before then so I can wheel. Roads just opened up! I'm about to put my old SAS on just to see what, if anything changes. At this point I've replaced the entire SAS/clockspring assembly and I'm STILL not back on the road.

 

[joshestes]

UPDATE: I was looking at AHC pressures and I guess the HI height control light just burnt out on top of all this. Is my new land cruiser falling apart underneath me?
The steering angle under AHC Live shows 0 degrees and even updates when I rotate the clock spring. So what does that mean?

 

[2001LC]

I don't think my US-based 2007 Land Cruiser is equipped with VGRS. It's not an option in TechStream and I'm running the same version you are.

Sorry, my bad! VGRS is a Lexus (LX470 100 series) product only. AHC, is also a Lexus product, that was an option on the 06-07LC only. I see AHC, I think LX.

This time I did a full health check on all ECUs, got a few obvious ones for the airbag since it's not installed at the moment. Cleared all DTCs, checked all ECUs and there are 0 active DTCs. I ran the ZPC again and it completed. Then I ran the test mode. It made the VSC light flash, but the ABS light stayed solid. The steering angle sensor is still reading 1150. I guess this new-to-me ebay SAS is broken too? IDK. The ABS light didn't show up until I plugged this one in. I've got an appointment with Toyota in a few weeks but I'd like to have this sorted before then so I can wheel. Roads just opened up! I'm about to put my old SAS on just to see what, if anything changes. At this point I've replaced the entire SAS/clockspring assembly and I'm STILL not back on the road.

Rule #1. Whenever working on anything electrical (wire attach). Disconnect battery (negative post/clamp).

Do you have a 2006 or 2007 LC FSM (Factory Service Manual). If not, I suggest you get one. Root around in ih8mud for a PDF copy, or buy PDF copy or hard copy (ebay, FB).

As I understand it, you had no issue. Just a mild clicking from steering column. Then replaced the clock spring with used one. Then issues began.
So, either you installed a bad clock spring from ebay or you made a procedural mistake while installing. Before putting old back in, I suggest you study up.

By read the R&R (remove & replace) info from the FSM. You may spot, what the issue is. From there, go into DI (diagnostics) section. Read diagnostic tree for the DTC you have.

Taken from a 2005 FSM, in DI section, under C1335:

"PREPARATION: (a) (b) (c) Connect the hand−held tester to the DLC3.
Turn the ignition switch ON and push the hand−held tester main switch ON.
Select the DATALIST mode on the hand−held tester.
CHECK: Check that the steering wheel turning angle value of the steering angle position sensor displayed on the hand−held tester is changing when turning the steering wheel.
HINT: After certifying ”Zero” point calibration of the steering angle sensor (Speed: 21 mph (35 km/h), driving straight ahead for 10 sec. or more), the value will change.
OK: Steering wheel turning angle value must be changing.
NG 2 OK Go to step"


No steering angle sensor DTC present in your screenshot. Perhaps, it will pop up when you drive. But first, best to deal with DTC you do have.

First:
I would work to clear these. It seems you've an airbag issue. Since working on steering wheel. It would be likely, a wire not properly connect or procedure not followed.

I always, record and then clear any DTC. Then see what comes back. (Note: The Engine and ECT, has to do with update the Tech stream software "NO DTC present" )

View attachment 3910709

UPDATE: I was looking at AHC pressures and I guess the HI height control light just burnt out on top of all this. Is my new land cruiser falling apart underneath me?
The steering angle under AHC Live shows 0 degrees and even updates when I rotate the clock spring. So what does that mean?

If vehicle not lifting to high, is why no H light. Then, likely by doing a sensor lift. You've taken to much weight off the rear coil springs and front T-bars. Resulting in excessive pressure on the AHC hydraulics. If pressure to high, it will not go into high (H). Sinces raising, increase pressure (load carried by AHC). Driving around with pressure to high, after a sensor lift. Will blow out your globes, in time.

To drop pressures. Try turning each 30mm t-bar adjust bolt CW (clockwise), ~4 or 5 turns equally.
But first cross level. Almost always, the front DS is sitting low and rear passenger side sitting high. So we turn DS T-bar to bring that front side up and thus drops other side (front PS). If on other hand pressures to low. We'd lower PS when level higher than DS, to cross level and bring up pressure. Once cross leveled. We turn each T-bar equally. How many turns CW or CCW, is based on AHC pressure in front. You must lower AHC to L, then raise to N with full tank of gas, no one or nothing else in vehicle, except seats. to get the pressure read. We're also supposed, to disconnect AHC fluid temp sensor when adjusting pressure (Mpa). There are some very good threads in mud, on AHC.

Tip: Clean threads of T-bar adjustor's and oil them. Raise front of vehicle to take weight off T-bar. Before adjusting (turn 30mm bolt).


Keep in mind. The 100 series, is a highly integrated system. When we start modify, changing or replacing one component. This often has effects in another systems.

 

[2001LC]

BTW: ABS shut down, with almost and DTC present.

 

[joshestes]

Thank you! I for sure had the negative battery terminal disconnected for all this work. I downloaded all the service manuals, great suggestion, I had on my list to buy a Chilton's or something but what I found on the forums here is way better.
The clicking from the clockspring was more of a scratchy noise. After pulling it apart I could see why. The ribbon cable inside was hanging on by a thread and warped and making contact with the plastic housing. I got the replacement from clockspringexperts.com so it's not an ebay *hope it works* part, and it did fix the scratchy noise. To be honest I was also trying to diagnose why the tilt/telescopic wheel didn't work also while I was in the vicinity.
The ebay SAS sensor I got is the right part number, but probably from a different model Lexus or different year model of LC which isn't as *special* as mine with AHC AND VSC. I'm going to get the multimeter out today and check continuity on all the pins. It apparently had been cut and spliced by a previous owner. I might just leave all the steering column exposed and pay Toyota 190 dollars to diagnose it and see what it would take to put it back to factory.
The airbag is lit up because the airbag is sitting on the bench still.
As far as AHC goes, I'm going to adjust the sensors back to factory positions until I can get the springs installed and torsion bars tightened up. Thanks for the details on that. I've got some reading to do. Actually, feeding ChatGPT the entire service manual and then asking it questions has proven very useful.
For now, I've got my original SAS installed, returning the ebay one and living without VSC for now. *I dont need it anyway I just dont want the dash lights*

 

[2001LC]

I so often, have to work to correct, what others hands have touched. I just had one that was so simple, once I found it. It was blowing running lights fuse the moment lights switched on. It was a 10 year old hack, didn't have any issues. Until one day, a cut they cut 10 years ago (factory wire) moved just a tad. The end of this wire, now after 10 years, touch metal grounding (short) it. Took days to find it, deep under the dash. Had whomever, just cap the wire! It wouldn't have been issue ever. HACKs!

Thank you! I for sure had the negative battery terminal disconnected for all this work. I downloaded all the service manuals, great suggestion, I had on my list to buy a Chilton's or something but what I found on the forums here is way better.

Toyota FSM is only way to go!

So study the areas you're dealing with (SAS). It may very well, shine a light, on a missed step.

The clicking from the clockspring was more of a scratchy noise. After pulling it apart I could see why. The ribbon cable inside was hanging on by a thread and warped and making contact with the plastic housing. I got the replacement from clockspringexperts.com so it's not an ebay *hope it works* part, and it did fix the scratchy noise.

I've heard many scratchy, but never pulled one steering wheel in my ~22 years of working on 100 series.

To be honest I was also trying to diagnose why the tilt/telescopic wheel didn't work also while I was in the vicinity.

All I've dealt with, have needed a motor. Mostly Tele motor, a few tilt. You'll see in FSM. It recommends, swapping wire housing form one to the other motor. This is to test switch and that power is getting motor. You'll also see other methods of check wiring/power.

It's concerning: "Someone did a hack job under the steering column. Looks like they were trying to fix or disable the telescopic wheel function (and it is)"

So tilt works. Then, just swap over its wire housing and plug into tele motor. If tele motor then works, it's a power issue to motor. You then swap tele wire to tilt to confirm.

It is possible tele motor was bad. Some hack wire, trying to fix. Thus, creating two issue.

The ebay SAS sensor I got is the right part number, but probably from a different model Lexus or different year model of LC which isn't as *special* as mine with AHC AND VSC. I'm going to get the multimeter out today and check continuity on all the pins. It apparently had been cut and spliced by a previous owner. I might just leave all the steering column exposed and pay Toyota 190 dollars to diagnose it and see what it would take to put it back to factory.

If part number the same, it is the part. Toyota uses same parts, cross many of their platfroms. Even some other manufacture like Subaru.
This assumes, PO didn't hack or swap prats..

You'll find diagrams and correct PN. www.partsouq.com. Use your VIN # to find your vehicle. Main page shows original PN. Click on and bring up the part and pictures, look through all numbers given. Since often a PN has been sub.

The airbag is lit up because the airbag is sitting on the bench still.

OH!

As far as AHC goes, I'm going to adjust the sensors back to factory positions until I can get the springs installed and torsion bars tightened up. Thanks for the details on that. I've got some reading to do. Actually, feeding ChatGPT the entire service manual and then asking it questions has proven very useful.

Good plan. Understanding before digging in, will save time and frustration.

For now, I've got my original SAS installed, returning the ebay one and living without VSC for now. *I dont need it anyway I just dont want the dash lights*

Did this (orignal) clear the lights?

 

[joshestes]

This is unbelievable and won't be satisfactory for anyone with a 100 series land cruiser following this thread. I sent the ebay SAS back today and got to work putting AHC sensors back to factory. I couldn't get the HI light in the dash to come on although the height was increasing from Normal. So I used my big brain and pushed on the gauge cluster to see if it was maybe a poor connection and the ABS light went OFF! ABS was a red herring caused by a loose connection in the gauge cluster! So I'm re-ordering the SAS I just sent back, that will fix my VSC lights again. The ABS is solved. TPMS I'm going to try and disable in techstream again, I don't feel like getting back there to the sensor again, but it probably needs smaller gauge t-tap to make a better connection. After the SAS gets installed I'll put the airbag in and hopefully NO MORE DASH warnings.