2007 LC won't move, need help! (1 Viewer)

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Sep 26, 2014
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Jacksonville, FL
Haven't had time to search threads - sorry - I'm on vacation with wife and kids. Yesterday my wife shut engine off with transmission in reverse, then jammed it into park with engine off. Today, I did a hard acceleration into traffic and suddenly LC coasts to a stop with the sound of gears grinding. I've tried shifting into low range, hi range, fwd, reverse, etc. with engine on and off. The only way she'll move is with the center diff locked.. This is an unmodified 2007 with full time 4wd and center diff lock, approx 160k miles. I've owned since new. All maintenance is up to date including full synthetic fluids 6months ago. I'm several hours from home... Can I drive it at highway speeds with diff locked? Any ideas on what's happening? Do I need a tow truck? Thanks in advance for your help.
 
Sounds like you stripped your outer cv splines/hub flange. It’s fairly common on poorly maintained vehicles, especially ones who have not seen a wheel bearing service.
 
Remove front driveshaft then you would be fine to drive home with it in locked position
 
Haven't had time to search threads - sorry - I'm on vacation with wife and kids. Yesterday my wife shut engine off with transmission in reverse, then jammed it into park with engine off. Today, I did a hard acceleration into traffic and suddenly LC coasts to a stop with the sound of gears grinding. I've tried shifting into low range, hi range, fwd, reverse, etc. with engine on and off. The only way she'll move is with the center diff locked.. This is an unmodified 2007 with full time 4wd and center diff lock, approx 160k miles. I've owned since new. All maintenance is up to date including full synthetic fluids 6months ago. I'm several hours from home... Can I drive it at highway speeds with diff locked? Any ideas on what's happening? Do I need a tow truck? Thanks in advance for your help.
Anywhere near Atlanta?
 
It's only 4 bolts on each end. IIRC they take a 14MM wrench. If you don't want to get underneath you prob. could get even a Jiffy Lube type of place to remove it.
 
Wheel bearings done at 100k. This is NOT a poorly maintained vehicle. Thanks
Wasn’t necessarily trying to say it was. Just more common to see on a less than adequately maintained vehicle. The splines that mate the CV and hub flange wear and eventually strip. This is not possible unless the vehicle was driven with loose front wheel bearings for some time.
 
Wasn’t necessarily trying to say it was. Just more common to see on a less than adequately maintained vehicle. The splines that mate the CV and hub flange wear and eventually strip. This is not possible unless the vehicle was driven with loose front wheel bearings for some time.
Thank you. I was able to drive home, so it's off to the shop tomorrow. Hopefully not too expensive.
 
I've found so called "maintained" series 100's with hub flange issues very often. The number one reason is wheel bearing service not being done correctly or often enough. In the Toyota factory supplied OM (owner'ss manual) it recommended we service wheel and axle bearing & bushing at each 30K mile interval. One could argue for longer (45K) but I would recommend that, as they start loosening at first mile driven.

What I see almost on every wheel bearing job is three issues:
  1. Axle bushing & bearing not greased. Not a big deal as factory grease is still in place, provided seal & dust cover in back of knuckle in good condition keeping out moisture & dirt.
  2. Wheel bearing breakaway preload not set correctly. Which in almost every case I've seen, wheel bearings adjust nut is to loose. This allows wheel bearings to vibrate setting up chatter.
  3. Snap ring (hub flange to axle) gap not set tight. This allows axle to movement in and out of spindle past design limits.
When #2 and #3 are present a sawing action takes place. Sawing away damaging hub flange first/more (softer metal), and axle second (harder metal).
# 3 condition, the axle moving in and out pounds on snap ring, hub flange face and axle groove (retains snap ring).

Bottom line; have wheel bearings service every 30K miles "properly". This will protect the front drive shaft axle & hub flange from damage. It also insure the Toyota designed-in reliability of the 100 series. "Properly" means: cleaned, greased and tight.

:cautious:
I get some feedback every time I same this: YOU CAN HAVE WHEEL BEARINGS or SNAP RING GAP TO TIGHT!

Ok sure you could, if someone could figure a way to keep that socket wrench on the very slim adjusting nut at very high (Over 75ft-lbf) torque, then maybe. But I've taken torque on adjusting to as high as 72ft-lbf, to get 12.5lb breakaway preload, and bearings loved it.
 

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