You need to livestream sensor readings while it is running. Torque Pro has a function where it shows live graphs. You can plot MAF readings in g/sec, plus actual and commanded throttle position. I'm guessing you are going to get a weird blip in one of those when the rig stalls. For my rig, it was the MAF reading falling off a cliff.
Build 2007 GX470 Build Thread
- Thread starter xcmountain
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- #182
I have Torque Pro but need a new OBD II plug-in (mine was cheapo and finally died). Good to know.
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- #183
Any idea why the MAF connector is failing on other rigs? Connectors, wiring, etc?
The wires are super-small, like 22-26 gauge And, at this point, every MAF connector on a GX470 is 16 years old, some are 22 years old.
My theory is that the insulation on the wires and the plastic connector is brittle and fragile. When it is disturbed in any way (i.e., removed to work on the motor), something in the connector is damaged (i.e., the connector body, a wire, or even the pins), which increases the resistance in the MAF circuit, or causes it to be intermittently open. Since the MAF is a super-sensitive instrument, even a small increase in resistance will really throw off the MAF readings.
Luckily, it's a pretty easy and cheap fix.
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- #185
It is a solid theory, and at this point, I will take any liferaft to keep this darn truck from stalling. Stalled 3 times on my wife just yesterday. So last night I went to work replacing the connector, forgetting this vehicle came with the Hewitt bypass and only slightly complicating the process. I ordered another MAF plug to update the OEM just in case. As you can see, uninsulated connections dont seem like a good idea.
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- #186
So much for plenty of photos or even good photos; they looked good at midnight, so maybe I'll try again.
Yep, that's your problem.
FYI, the Amazon MAF connector I linked earlier is total junk. My rig started acting up again over the past few weeks. It wasn't stalling, but the fuel trims were all over the place, it was down on power, and was getting crappy MPG. I found the Amazon plug to be cracked already. Don't buy it. You can get one from Ballanger Motorsports instead. I re-did my wiring with the Ballenger connector and the rig runs sooo much better. The Ballenger connector looks/feels different, so it must be from a different factory.
I also have the same Hewitt bypass you do. I may open it up and see what the connections look like. I'm not a fan of soldering and the lack of insulation. If mine is like that I am 100% going to redo it. I will say that I ran it w/ and w/o the Hewitt hooked in and it ran the same, so for my problem, it seems to have just been the Amazon connector causing the problem.
FYI, the Amazon MAF connector I linked earlier is total junk. My rig started acting up again over the past few weeks. It wasn't stalling, but the fuel trims were all over the place, it was down on power, and was getting crappy MPG. I found the Amazon plug to be cracked already. Don't buy it. You can get one from Ballanger Motorsports instead. I re-did my wiring with the Ballenger connector and the rig runs sooo much better. The Ballenger connector looks/feels different, so it must be from a different factory.
I also have the same Hewitt bypass you do. I may open it up and see what the connections look like. I'm not a fan of soldering and the lack of insulation. If mine is like that I am 100% going to redo it. I will say that I ran it w/ and w/o the Hewitt hooked in and it ran the same, so for my problem, it seems to have just been the Amazon connector causing the problem.
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- #188
So next steps should be to replace the Amazon Connector recently installed with Ballenger, and replace the OEM connector with Ballenger, and I should be set? Since it was installed by the PO, I dont know the conditions that forced the install. Some of the GX folks like to just buy crap and install it, or, like our 2005 Sequoia, get stuck on the side of the road because it hits you out of nowhere. And then there's my brother, 290k on his 2006 Tundra, and his damn AIP still works like new.
You brought up a good point and made me think of another post/video I saw. There is another way to wire a less expensive Hewitt bypass. How long do devices like that last? I had a Superlift Speed Calibrator in my 2002 4Runner for 11 years, and one day it just died. In a slight reactive panic, I ordered $5 worth of 4.5k ohm resistors because I have all the other bits to make a non-Hewitt bypass, but now I am thinking why?
ih8mud aip link
Hawkeye Garage Youtube, based off the above link
If your Amazon connector works, you can definitely keep it. But, I'd suggest getting another one from Ballenger and have it on-hand in case your Amazon connector craps out like mine did. MAF connectors on these rigs seem problematic for some reason (maybe our aFe intakes are partially to blame for this). Since it's been such a recurring problem on my rig, I spliced in a 6-pin Deutsch connector onto the OEM MAF harness, on top of the passenger side valve cover. I then built a new MAF sub-harness using a Ballenger MAF connector on one end and another Deutsch connector on the other end. If/when the MAF connector craps out, it can then just be unplugged and replaced w/o any new splicing. I may expand this idea to include a non-Hewitt bypass into the MAF sub-harness. I might be able to do it using all new, continuous wire without needing to cut and splice anything.
I used the JReady brand Deutsch connectors from Amazon and some ICrimp barrel connector crimpers. It's pretty easy to construct Deutsch connectors and IMO they are superior to OEM Toyota connectors.
And again - sorry man for the bad advice on that connector. I need to leave it a negative review and update my previous posts to say that it's junk.
I used the JReady brand Deutsch connectors from Amazon and some ICrimp barrel connector crimpers. It's pretty easy to construct Deutsch connectors and IMO they are superior to OEM Toyota connectors.
And again - sorry man for the bad advice on that connector. I need to leave it a negative review and update my previous posts to say that it's junk.
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- #190
Yes, I have suspected the AFE intake for some time. I have thought about just trading it for a OE one but after I finally finalized the fit using a few different silicone couplers to mitigate the 2" body lift I would hate for it to be all for not.
I ordered 2 of the other connectors JIC, and got myself a nice set of crimps in the process in a previous Amazon order.
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- #191
I did some interior updating and painting over the last few days, as well as a CV re-boot.
1st was the purchase of the Blue Dog design transfer case surround panel with dual cup holders and a replacement switch panel because I was moving things around and needed another spot.
Then, after some research here I found this gem, which covers color matching and 3d printer line filling. The final result was pretty good; the 3m Bondo glazing product was interesting to work with. Fast drying, easy to sand, but it took a few tries to fill the voids (could have just been my inexperience). Now to update/ refresh the console paint scheme. I have never had the console out, and wow was it gross inside the cubby and there was almost a 1/2 bag of what appeard to be doritos under the console in the e-brake well. I took this time to add a power outlet for the 2nd row (daughters insistance).
I also opted to change my steering wheel as it was looking absolutely trash. I shopped and hunted for a guy who existed but doesn't seem to anymore, who re-covers the wheel. The guy I did find was $$$, so ebay / AliExpress was the next option. With the tariffs in place and adding 30% to ebay steering wheels, I had to look for a wheel that was stateside already. I found a sporty black one after giving up trying to color match my current setup. Then of course, I had to find black buttons, and research painting vinyl and plastic(that was an adventure, easy on the front end, a little more difficult when it came to clear coat). I am still working through that ATM.
Let's not forget a CV reboot for good measure.
1st was the purchase of the Blue Dog design transfer case surround panel with dual cup holders and a replacement switch panel because I was moving things around and needed another spot.
Then, after some research here I found this gem, which covers color matching and 3d printer line filling. The final result was pretty good; the 3m Bondo glazing product was interesting to work with. Fast drying, easy to sand, but it took a few tries to fill the voids (could have just been my inexperience). Now to update/ refresh the console paint scheme. I have never had the console out, and wow was it gross inside the cubby and there was almost a 1/2 bag of what appeard to be doritos under the console in the e-brake well. I took this time to add a power outlet for the 2nd row (daughters insistance).
I also opted to change my steering wheel as it was looking absolutely trash. I shopped and hunted for a guy who existed but doesn't seem to anymore, who re-covers the wheel. The guy I did find was $$$, so ebay / AliExpress was the next option. With the tariffs in place and adding 30% to ebay steering wheels, I had to look for a wheel that was stateside already. I found a sporty black one after giving up trying to color match my current setup. Then of course, I had to find black buttons, and research painting vinyl and plastic(that was an adventure, easy on the front end, a little more difficult when it came to clear coat). I am still working through that ATM.
Let's not forget a CV reboot for good measure.
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- #192
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- #195
I cannot however, figure out how to get the parking brake grip off to paint it...
@ me if you do. I couldn't figure it out either.
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- #197
I want to color-match the leather using the same SEM leather/ vinyl spray I used on the 4WD shift nob and boots.
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- #198
Next up is re-mounting my Power tank. This thing has been with me for years and is on vehicle #2 and Hydro #3. I originally mounted it to my party deck (3/4" plywood cut to fit and sealed). I want it off the deck and utilizing the bracket that the jump seats use. If it's secure enough for a seat, it'll work just fine for the Power Tank. I am repurposing a set of awning brackets and need to purchase a 12" threaded rod and miscellaneous hardware. If I get it just right, the outside edge of the tank bracket should align with the edge of the party deck and not rob me of any space.
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- #199
Preliminary
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- #200
Next and perhaps this weekend if the weather holds, 460 rack swap. The 470 rack is original and seems to have some wander to it, coupled with a torn boot and leakage.