im going to start ordering parts for mine next week, please let me know what you end up buying. i may go for a low mileage used.
Build 2007 GX470 Build Thread
- Thread starter xcmountain
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- #202
Sure,
-ebays rack under 100k ran me $225 w/shipping (they accepted a $175 offer) with inner and outer tie rods.
-drill bits 1/2 33/64 17/32 35/64 9/16 made by drill america and sold on ebay (I though about renting the bits after purchasing nearly $100 in bits I'll likely never use again)
-White line poly steering rack bushings $41 shipped. ( keeping the tie rod ends made sense but used bushings did not, ymmv)
while its been done and documented on GXOR this was also a good resource.
Replaced gx470 steering rack with 460 rack. Off center? - ClubLexus - Lexus Forum Discussion
GX - 1st Gen (2003-2009) - Replaced gx470 steering rack with 460 rack. Off center? - Hi all. Thanks for reading. I?m flummoxed. 2006 gx470, I bought 44200-60223, gx460 rack. Centered it at 1 1/2 turns as it has 3 complete turns end to end. Widened the mounting holes, got it in, bolted down...
www.clublexus.com
What is the color you used for the center console?
- Thread starter
- #205
Look back in my build, I followed another members colors and ended up top coating with a / the bronze he recommends. I could not get a match match but it is so much cleaner than before.
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- #206
I’m going up fractions of an inch I “should” be ok.
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- #207
Ok I got started.
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- #208
Well, per the previous poster stepping these up sucks. I’m using a Milwaukee hammer drill on drill and it just isn’t going great. Working on another solution while I wait for the 9/16 reamer bit (tomorrow delivery).
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- #209
Another and better option IMO is to sleeve the damn new bushing and use the stock hardware. I have successfully drilled out to 1/2” and then broke the next one…
Are you using oil/lube? Tap Magic works pretty good for that kind of stuff. Or honestly, get a magnetic drill to reduce strain. I don't think they are cheap but might be worth it for what sounds like a pretty terrible job.
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- #211
I mean drilling a hole that already exists is a terrible job add in upside down and limited leverage space and yea F U N.
If it’s been die. Before I’ll figure it out. The reamer is due in tomorrow so if that doesn’t work, sleeve McQueen to the rescue.
While I’m waiting I’m finishing other stuff and helping my buddy with his projects.
Long time want was c02 on the fender.
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- #212
And yes pack out squares can work
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- #213
Also had t pick up an “automotive crescent wrench” because my inner tie rod tool wouldnt fit over the bulbous head of the ITR to reach the wrench flats.
Add leverage and boom I’m the captain now.
Add leverage and boom I’m the captain now.
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- Thread starter
- #214
Evening update, the reamer lubed and run slow seems to be working. Will know better in the morning.
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- #215
9/16 reamer worked like a treat up to 98%, had to chase with a 9/16 bit because the shoulder on the reamer stopped it from passing through.
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- #216
learned my lesson
- Thread starter
- #217
Another thing giving me trouble is the hole alignment. You’re supposed to be able to just gently pry the damn thing aligned. I think the poly bushings are not having it.
I followed the instructions starting with the passenger side bolt and trying to negotiate the driver side bolt. I’ve done this a few times with a prybar and a ratchet strap and I can get it close but no hole in one. Alternatively, I started on the driver side and I can get the passenger side pretty damn close but again no hole in one. Next, I’m gonna try and taper the edge of the sleeve in the polyurethane, bushing and grease it up so it’s more accepting to the bolt and then maybe I can compress it together and make it happen. I’m getting to that point of frustration, where I just wanna cut all the IFS stuff out and SAS it with leaf spring.
I followed the instructions starting with the passenger side bolt and trying to negotiate the driver side bolt. I’ve done this a few times with a prybar and a ratchet strap and I can get it close but no hole in one. Alternatively, I started on the driver side and I can get the passenger side pretty damn close but again no hole in one. Next, I’m gonna try and taper the edge of the sleeve in the polyurethane, bushing and grease it up so it’s more accepting to the bolt and then maybe I can compress it together and make it happen. I’m getting to that point of frustration, where I just wanna cut all the IFS stuff out and SAS it with leaf spring.
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I've had to grease up a lot of poly bushing to get them in. In my experience, they tend to be slightly wider than OEM bushings.
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- #219
OK, all buttoned up I had to modify one bushing sleeve to easily accept the 9/16 bolt. Once I did that and lubed it all up, I was able to gently hammer the bolt into place. Because I’m using polyurethane bushings they are not as pliable as the rubber OE units for this reason I opted to start my bolt on the driver side use a rating tight down to then gently pull the rest of the assembly out and create alignment.
- Thread starter
- #220
Ok and finalized with a driveway alignment with some DIY turn plates and string.
I do have a leak from the LP side ARM, I got another 1/8 a turn from it and 1/16 out of the HP. So time will tell.
Driving around the neighborhood felt firm and smooth with no slop.
I do have a leak from the LP side ARM, I got another 1/8 a turn from it and 1/16 out of the HP. So time will tell.
Driving around the neighborhood felt firm and smooth with no slop.