Build 2007 GX470 Build Thread

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Ok, we are good to go. ALignment done but not as exact as I wanted, I didn't know they didn't know what they were dealing with. I Have trained them before on how the 333 Fab lower CA bolts work and how to adjust the SPC uca's IF needed.

Drive is good and firm, have a few "offroad" trips coming up for a run down.

Install notes are the same as everyone's with the exception of the polyurethane bushings not allowing the suggested flex to align the holes. With rubber bushings this would probably be no issues.

Side note, make sure your ITR are tight, because the gx460 racks DO NOT have the little metal washer that has the bendable ears to keep the ITR nut in place. I accidently loosened my DS while adjusting the alignment in the driveway. Also my ITR tool that slides over the end and clamp down wasn't big enough to go over the gx460 ITR head. The flats measure 42mm.

Other than that, nothing different...
 
Well while I was busy with that i discovered an oil leak,,,, then I couldnt recall if I did the oil cooler on the GX,,,, realized no it hasnt been touched but I did do it on my Sequoia and brothers Tundra, so I ordered the parts and now its GX time.

OEMGUY0720

Thread 'Oil Cooler Leak Repair guide for 2UZFE 100 series (LC or LX)'

Please feel free to add anything that I may have missed.

How the leak would look like if the oil cooler seal has failed:
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The Red arrow is pointing where the oil cooler o-ring seal is located, this is a two-piece assembly consisting of the oil cooler itself and the crossover pipe (or whatever you may call it) going to the engine block.

Step #1: Remove the front skid plate.
Step #2: Remove the Oil Filter.
Step #3: Remove the securing bolt in the center of the oil cooler housing using a 32mm socket:

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Make sure not to lose that flat washer indicated in the...
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And wouldn’t you know I trapped air in my lines and boom HOT AF.

1st vehicle in my life I needed to get a radiator bleed kit. Guess I’ve been lucky. Fast forward the funnel came in and I’ll give it a go this evening.

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You put a new rad or hoses in?
I did CSF rad and Hayden trans cooler in Dec.

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Filled the new rad and let idle with the funnel on. Saw plenty of small bubbles come up, I would squeeze the upper rad hose and got some decent sized bubbles a few times. Zero overheating/hot coolant temps now tho :)
 
Air-powered vacuum bleeder is the way to go. I had done it with no funnel and the funnel before, but got the vacuum bleeder to refill a Subie (impossible to get any other way). I'll never go back to the other ways to refill. They are about $100 at Harbor Freight.
 
stupidchicken03 said:
You put a new rad or hoses in?
I did CSF rad and Hayden trans cooler in Dec.

View attachment 4080592

Filled the new rad and let idle with the funnel on. Saw plenty of small bubbles come up, I would squeeze the upper rad hose and got some decent sized bubbles a few times. Zero overheating/hot coolant temps now tho :)
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Oil Cooler seals

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Rednexus said:
Air-powered vacuum bleeder is the way to go. I had done it with no funnel and the funnel before, but got the vacuum bleeder to refill a Subie (impossible to get any other way). I'll never go back to the other ways to refill. They are about $100 at Harbor Freight.
Click to expand...
I have seen those, luckily I have not needed such a tool yet. $20 bleed funnel did the trick.
 
I got bored, not wanting to complete any of my domestic projects and already being tired of "helping" I decided to take on trash project that could go either way.

So i got together some sandpaper 220,350,600,1000, and 1500. Filled a spray bottle with water and began the initial removal of the machined mill lines on my raceline avenger wheels. I really really like the look of polished aluminum, HD Wheels beadlocks make me drool but I stop when i see the price (they are forged though).

I sanded with a random orbital 1st to see what would happen, then hand sanded a ton. id love to find a better way to get the angle under the bead lock and the finger groove between the ramp and the rim face.

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OG Zuninja said:
You've got far more patience than I do. After polishing "bright work" by hand while active duty, I refuse to do it on any of my own stuff and its why I stayed away from polished wheels. It does look good though.
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Well, the wheels are machine finish so your options are ceramic coated before you mount tires, which is what I should’ve done, sand, and polish, which looks hot, or just paint them which I’m still on the fence I’d love to paint the face, a nice gray titanium or maybe a little bit darker and leave the ring bright. Next steps are to order green and brown compound, with white flannel and orange buff wheels. The orange with brown will remove the scratches from the 600-1000, and the white with green will make that metal looks GOOOOOOD. I Have a big campout and MTB day with daughter coming up, so this project will be on hold for a week or 2.
 
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I need to get back around to sanding and polishing wheels. It just seems like there is not quite enough time in the day for ALL the things.
 
An update of sorts, I was cleaning g the garage and came across the polishing wheels and compound I had purchased for the Raceline Polish project.

So naturally with no previous knowledge I tried, first on a grinder, too fast and lots of smoke, then on a cheap buffer and working in stages to not overheat it.

The results are 96%, I did not pull the wheel apart (bead bolts, ring valve stem). I’ll save that for a week when I can do a wheel a day.

Sand with 400, 600, hand finish the weird spots, orange wheel with brown compound then white wheel with green compound.

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