2006 LX470 Locker Questions (2 Viewers)

[Joe Bob]

Love my ARB lockers. Two years with no problems. Instant activation. Air vs electronic is a personal preference, both have plus and minus but I dont think you'll be disappointed either way. But I'm with @ikarus on having a professional do gearing and lockers. Not too much room for error with tolerances and expensive if messed up to just to save a few dollars.

Also, I think it's unanimous between air and electronic lockers owners that either is way better than no locker. Atrac is great when used correctly and in the right circumstances, but nothing beats knowing you're triple locked, just ask @ga12r1. Both triple locked, mine with ARB, his with Harrops. Both take the same lines and enjoy the confidence of a locked rig. Either way, lockers are awesome

Is the front lockwr worth it? how often do you find yourself using it?

 

[Skidoo]

Is the front lockwr worth it? how often do you find yourself using it?

I went five years with only the rear locker. Then I got all gungho on a big ledge with lots of throttle.
You can see from the video it took some big bounces to break the diff. I had locker put in when it was repaired.
Stock front 4 pinion diff, how strong -> video

I don't use the front very often, with the rear locked it seems like ATRAC has an easier time dealing with just the front.

Just a rear locker gives a bunch more capability, front adds a bit more capability.
Rear locker may do it for you. Been there, done that, worked well.
Front locker allows you to get a little more gungho without breaking something.
But you can still break stuff with the front locker.
Go with just the rear, and keep your gungho in check.

We should meet up when things aren't so crazy.

 

[Otis]

Is the front lockwr worth it? how often do you find yourself using it?

I ended up putting Harrop e-lockers in the front and rear after blowing my front diff in Moab. I never intended to add a front locker since I did not plan on wheeling my 100 very hard. However, occasionally I find myself on a rough trail in the 100 and now I really like having the front locker since I feel like there is less effort and beating on the truck when having to go over a tough obstacle. Also, I have never noticed any delay with engaging the Harrop but I usually know when I am going to need it and engage it beforehand. I have ARB lockers front and rear in my 40 and they have been trouble free for over 10 years. You probably can't go wrong with either choice.

 

[dividedan]

The way my lockers are wired I can’t just engage the front locker alone, so I can’t say from real world experience. But, I have read plenty argue online that a front locker will improve performance more than a rear locker on an IFS truck given the reduced wheel travel and greater likelihood of wheel lift.

 

[Joe Bob]

We should meet up when things aren't so crazy

I'm down! I have 2 other friends that have been building up their rigs, a Taco and a 4runner. They will want to meet up too!. next time u r gonna head out pm me!

 

[riffman12]

Poker flat? Tried to get through those snow drifts about 3 weeks ago and gave up. I assume it's clearer now though after hot weather.

I did it last year in moderate rain and my LX on 33's walked through it mud and all using just ATRAC.

Even had to help out an xterra with a rear locker.

I think on slower rockier terrain a locker would be far superior but i would think that trail is really well suited for ATRAC

 

[Joe Bob]

Poker flat? Tried to get through those snow drifts about 3 weeks ago and gave up. I assume it's clearer now though after hot weather.

I did it last year in moderate rain and my LX on 33's walked through it mud and all using just ATRAC.

Even had to help out an xterra with a rear locker.

I think on slower rockier terrain a locker would be far superior but i would think that trail is really well suited for ATRAC

We put in 8hrs of breaking trail through snow. we used the 2 trucks with lockers to push us forward as they seemed to simply push more snow that those of us who were not locked.. On the climb after pocker flat on the way to La Porte the trail was wet, wet ,wet! Atrac got me through with center diff locked, but where my rig struggled the taco with rear locker just made it look easy comparatively. It only makes sense that lockers and Atrac will out perform Atrac alone. I just need to decide which lockers to go with and find a good installer.

 

[Joe Bob]

You can have on board air AND electric harrop lockers.

weight is a big factor in mid. Also I’m not sure but does the ATRAC andVSC kick in and control the throttle when there is wheel slippage? Could be the car is cutting the theotttle

ATRAC only applies brakes to the wheels and does not impact throttle. when the center diff is on the vsc goes off.

 

[riffman12]

We put in 8hrs of breaking trail through snow.

Geeeeez that's rough. We need to get a little NorCal 100 series get together soon

 

[HRTROB]

I have Harrop front and rear lockers on my 80 and haven’t encountered any issues. I’ve never noticed the disengagement issue they talk about when switching directions. If I had to do it again I’d still get the Harrops. I wanted on-board air too, good thing ARB sells a portable version of their air compressors which is even better since I can move them and use them on my other cars.


Amazon product ASIN B007UV0UUM

 

[abuck99]

I'm liking the idea of air on-board and I am not excited about the lag on the diff engaging on and off and when switching directions. How would you convice me otherwise? Im looking for the most functional and reliable locker there is. Thanks

That’d be an E-locker- instantaneous engagement/disengagement.

There are no air lines to fail & leak, no solenoids or pressure switch to fail & leak, no o-rings to tear and leak, no unintended disengagement due to pressure loss, clogged breathers won't allow it to acutate, internal air line to foul inside the diff etc etc etc.

I have a TJM airlocker and its been fine, but the set up took going back into the diff ( 4hrs labor) to fix a torn actuator O-ring (wouldn't hold pressure), If I were to do it again I would choose an Eaton or Harrop (Eaton design) E-locker.

 

[Cola]

Is the front lockwr worth it? how often do you find yourself using it?

To me, yes it's worth it. I prob use 70% rear and 30% both. But my front tires lift more offer than my rear so having the locker and controlling wheel spin is a huge plus with the front. Although rear locked with atrac working the front is great, having the front locker to strengthen the diff and control wheel spin is even better to me. Rather pay upfront to strengthen with the locker than blow the front diff and pay the same amount to get back an open diff.

 

[Torquen]

ATRAC is trash (IMO) - front lock #1 port of call, then rear as well if you can afford the upgrade.

 

[BadReligion]

Is the front lockwr worth it? how often do you find yourself using it?

Depends on what type of trails you want to run, whether or not you are going to regear, and budget. I can run 98% of the Rubicon unlocked (other than CDL) in my 80. I can run 99.5% with just using the rear locker. That last 0.5% can be run without a front locker, but may require more liberal use of the throttle, leading to a decrease in control and increase the chance of breaking something. A bit of winching may also be necessary. With that being said, it is nice to have the front locker for the 0.5% of the time you need it. Front wheel lift may be a bit more of an issue on the 100 so those %s may increase slightly compared to an 80.

If on a budget and no regear is planned, start with a rear. I think on the 100 platform, a rear locker with ATRAC is a nice combo. If you are regearing and will be in the front diff anyways, then if budget permits, you might as well throw in a front locker.

That’d be an E-locker- instantaneous engagement/disengagement.

There are no air lines to fail & leak, no solenoids or pressure switch to fail & leak, no o-rings to tear and leak, no unintended disengagement due to pressure loss, clogged breathers won't allow it to acutate, internal air line to foul inside the diff etc etc etc.

I have a TJM airlocker and its been fine, but the set up took going back into the diff ( 4hrs labor) to fix a torn actuator O-ring (wouldn't hold pressure), If I were to do it again I would choose an Eaton or Harrop (Eaton design) E-locker.

It would be interesting to do a poll of current ARB locker owners and see if they like them and would install them again if they had the choice. I would not. I have ARBs F/R in my 80 and while they have never let me down, I have had several issues with the compressor, engagement, air leaks, and get a nice mist of gear oil under the hood every time I disengage a locker. All pretty common issues with ARBs.

When I regear and lock my 100 this summer, I am going with Harrop E-lockers. Wiring the switches is much easier with the E-lockers too. You can still have onboard air if you want and mount an ARB compressor wherever you want, or run a portable compressor. I have the larger VIAIR compressor that travels in my 100 and G63 and it will air me up in no time at all.

ATRAC is trash (IMO) - front lock #1 port of call, then rear as well if you can afford the upgrade.

Strongly disagree with this. You always want to lock the rear first.

 

[abuck99]

Agree- Locked rear first, then front. Front locked provides limited use compared to rear, basically straight ahead operation- so yeah mud, holes, deep 2-track could be beneficial. Bu flocked front puts heaps more stress on CV axles and diff if you're working the steering on a twisty track. With ATRAC I've found that a rear locker provides complimentary traction in situations where I'd rather not spin the wheels and stress the trail, tires or my driveline. FWIW ATRAC & center diff lock has proven to be very capable on its own- with good driving technique.

 

[krice118]

ATRAC is trash (IMO) - front lock #1 port of call, then rear as well if you can afford the upgrade.

Sounds like you should take some time to learn how ATRAC works.

 

[ga12r1]

Depends on what type of trails you want to run, whether or not you are going to regear, and budget. I can run 98% of the Rubicon unlocked (other than CDL) in my 80. I can run 99.5% with just using the rear locker. That last 0.5% can be run without a front locker, but may require more liberal use of the throttle, leading to a decrease in control and increase the chance of breaking something. A bit of winching may also be necessary. With that being said, it is nice to have the front locker for the 0.5% of the time you need it. Front wheel lift may be a bit more of an issue on the 100 so those %s may increase slightly compared to an 80.

If on a budget and no regear is planned, start with a rear. I think on the 100 platform, a rear locker with ATRAC is a nice combo. If you are regearing and will be in the front diff anyways, then if budget permits, you might as well throw in a front locker.



It would be interesting to do a poll of current ARB locker owners and see if they like them and would install them again if they had the choice. I would not. I have ARBs F/R in my 80 and while they have never let me down, I have had several issues with the compressor, engagement, air leaks, and get a nice mist of gear oil under the hood every time I disengage a locker. All pretty common issues with ARBs.

When I regear and lock my 100 this summer, I am going with Harrop E-lockers. Wiring the switches is much easier with the E-lockers too. You can still have onboard air if you want and mount an ARB compressor wherever you want, or run a portable compressor. I have the larger VIAIR compressor that travels in my 100 and G63 and it will air me up in no time at all.



Strongly disagree with this. You always want to lock the rear first.

I will say that after having front and rear Harrop e-lockers in my 100 for 2 years I just had them installed in my 200 too. I like them so much it never crossed my mind to try air lockers or go a different direction. 110% satisfied.

 

[Torquen]

Strongly disagree with this. You always want to lock the rear first.

I looked at the pros and cons of both and ended up going the front for a number of reasons;

• The IFS doesn't allow a lot of flex up front (in comparison to the rear) so you're more likely to lift a front wheel.
• The front dif is weaker than the rear, so additional momentum + lifted spinning wheel before re-grabbing traction is more likely to equal a BANG.
• Rear is equipped with a (s***e) LSD already
• I've got a full time mechanical locker (due to price) and didn't want to run that in the rear due to on road manners, however it doesn't matter in the front as I've got a part time 4x4 conversion.

In reality, I'm sure a rear would have been a huge step up too, but the front just made sense for me. I will be going a Harrop E-Locker for the rear when funds allow.

Sounds like you should take some time to learn how ATRAC works.

Or, get a front locker and wire up a disable TC switch like I have done. The LX is so much more capable now. Some people might like TC systems, but they're not for me.

 

[Skidoo]

I looked at the pros and cons of both and ended up going the front for a number of reasons;

• The IFS doesn't allow a lot of flex up front (in comparison to the rear) so you're more likely to lift a front wheel.
• The front dif is weaker than the rear, so additional momentum + lifted spinning wheel before re-grabbing traction is more likely to equal a BANG.
• Rear is equipped with a (s***e) LSD already
• I've got a full time mechanical locker (due to price) and didn't want to run that in the rear due to on road manners, however it doesn't matter in the front as I've got a part time 4x4 conversion.

Or, get a front locker and wire up a disable TC switch like I have done. The LX is so much more capable now. Some people might like TC systems, but they're not for me.

In the US, LX only had LSD for 98 & 99 model years.
Which mech locker do you have?
What does the disable TC switch do? does it disable both ATRAC and VSC?

 

[Torquen]

In the US, LX only had LSD for 98 & 99 model years.
Which mech locker do you have?
What does the disable TC switch do? does it disable both ATRAC and VSC?

The AUD delivered 98-99 appear to be the same (stock dif lockers) however all newer LX's come standard with LSD + TC.

Ended up going the LOKKA (How It Works - LOKKA) up front. Very happy with the performance. The "it's hard to steer" comment is definitely overplayed. Steering is heavier, but not bad by any means. You do get the occasional under-steer when giving it WOT, but a little blip off the go pedal and back on sorts it out instantly. Very easy to manage once you've got the hang of it.

The disable TC was a royal pain in the ass to do. We tried wiring it so it would only boot VCS and TC, but after hours and hours we couldn't crack it (always made VGRS and a few other codes go haywire). The LX's must be different to the cruisers as my mate has successfully done a disable TC on a 100 LC. In the end we've gone with the easy option, and essentially made a circuit breaker to the ABS relay with can be activated from inside the cab. It works perfectly, but it also creates a Christmas tree of lights on the dash (lose; TRC, ABS, VCS etc.). Once you're done wheelin', you just press the switch again and turn the car off/on. All back to normal.