2004 Land Cruiser - Door Actuator Motor Question (Newbie) (1 Viewer)

[AstRomroMan]

Good Morning Guys-
I just purchased my first LC. It is a "Garage Queen" with only 87,000 miles and in near mint condition. I am really excited to get her tagged and titled and on the road. She has one problem as follows:

Both front doors will not lock or unlock with the key fob or the toggle switch on either front door. The key fob and toggle switch do work all other doors. I can lock and unlock both front doors by 1) inserting the key in the door, or 2) using the manual "lever" (just below the interior door handle, the one that has the red sticker on it).

Based on reading this forum-- this leads me to believe that the actuator motors are both in need of replacing.

Do you guys agree with my diagnosis? Anything else I can try?

I'd like to buy the little motors in advance, but see there may be a couple different style motors.

Do you think this one will work?

https://www.amazon.com/Central-Actu...0BYD0QVK/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_sims?ie=UTF8

Thanks in advance for any advice or ideas!!!!!!!!!!!1

Don

 

[2001LC]

I do not agree it's the motors, unless they work when cold.

What we generally see, is as temperature and sun rise on one side of the rig (a door or doors), that side will stop working after one or two lockings or unlocking cycles. What happens is heat increase resistance in motor, wires and switches. The increase resistance just drops AMP to much to turn motor. On a cool/cold days out of sun, those same switches work 4 or 5 times or more in a row before failing until they cool back down. I'd expect all doors to act simular with diver door possible having weakest motor as it gets used the most.

I suspect something else is going on.

 

[dchilds]

It sounds like actuator motors need replacing. I recommend doing one side at a time (following the DIY thread on this forum) and don’t order the motors until you’ve cracked open the actuator to see what they are. There are a variety of types. My ‘04 LC has the type in your link but there’s no guarantee yours is the same.

It’s an easy job once you’ve got the unit out of the truck.

 

[KershZ71]

I replaced the driver door actuator when I purchased my 04 in June. I was worried about breaking the case open and gluing it back together, especially if it is such a common problem. I ordered a set (1L/1R) for a 97-01 Camry that has a screwed together case. I figured that this would make future repairs easier if needed. The part is the exact same, other than the arm. You can pull the arm out of your existing actuator and replace. It is a little more expensive to go this route, but I figured it would help me in the future if I run into the same issue and I didn't want to disassemble the door panel twice to check and replace motor. Here is a link to the actuators that I ordered. Let me know if you have any questions.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CPJBVVU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Dwight S]

I agree with @2001LC. I don't believe it's the motors. Here's a test: roll the windows down so you can see the door locks at the handles. Press the remote fob button. Is there any movement of the lock? If not, they're not getting any power. Even a weak motor will move the lock enough to be noticeable.

My bet is a loose connector on the underside of the switch panel or a broken wire in the wiring harness between the door and the lower fuse panel behind the left foot rest.

 

[AstRomroMan]

Thanks Guys-- I really appreciate the feedback, advice, and ideas. The LC just passed my state inspection, so when I get it back to the house I will try some of these ideas. I do think I saw some movement on the driver side door lock-- but will test that.
I will report back with what I find. I like the idea of replacing the full actuator-- thanks for that link. I just need to diagnose a little further.

 

[Enrique Sonora]

I agree with @2001LC. I don't believe it's the motors. Here's a test: roll the windows down so you can see the door locks at the handles. Press the remote fob button. Is there any movement of the lock? If not, they're not getting any power. Even a weak motor will move the lock enough to be noticeable.

My bet is a loose connector on the underside of the switch panel or a broken wire in the wiring harness between the door and the lower fuse panel behind the left foot rest.

This is the best answer I have read in a awhile. I have exactly the same problem works when cold, and slowly looses energy on hot days and multiple clicking of the lock/unlock button on the keyfaub.

So, take off the interior door panel and check the wires?

 

[dchilds]

For what it’s worth, my lock would flinch but not make the full move to lock or unlock. Replaced actuator - it’s strong and functions perfectly now.

 

[AstRomroMan]

Thanks everyone-- my front passenger side door lock will "flinch" a little, but the driver side does not move at all, when I hit the toggle switch. I am thinking it is the actuator, but may pull the cover and check the electrical connections into the toggle switch.

 

[AstRomroMan]

BTW-- do you all hear a "chirp" when you lock your doors with the key fob? I have never heard a chirp yet-- I think because my front two doors are not locking.

 

[Enrique Sonora]

BTW-- do you all hear a "chirp" when you lock your doors with the key fob? I have never heard a chirp yet-- I think because my front two doors are not locking.

Yes sometimes the chirp sound doesn't happen when the doors locks are hot or been open and closed multiple times

 

[Dwight S]

An “electronic” chirp? No.
You will hear a mechanical click when the lock motors activate.

 

[AstRomroMan]

I replaced the driver door actuator when I purchased my 04 in June. I was worried about breaking the case open and gluing it back together, especially if it is such a common problem. I ordered a set (1L/1R) for a 97-01 Camry that has a screwed together case. I figured that this would make future repairs easier if needed. The part is the exact same, other than the arm. You can pull the arm out of your existing actuator and replace. It is a little more expensive to go this route, but I figured it would help me in the future if I run into the same issue and I didn't want to disassemble the door panel twice to check and replace motor. Here is a link to the actuators that I ordered. Let me know if you have any questions.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CPJBVVU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

KershZ71-- Thanks! Really good idea, and I am thinking about doing this, vs. trying to crack those cases open. Is the actuator the same for all 4 doors? They come in a two pack-- so you think they will work for my both of my front doors? I also thought that I could then take the old ones and try to rebuild them with the little motors-- then have spares. Would these work in my two rear side doors? Thanks!

 

[KershZ71]

KershZ71-- Thanks! Really good idea, and I am thinking about doing this, vs. trying to crack those cases open. Is the actuator the same for all 4 doors? They come in a two pack-- so you think they will work for my both of my front doors? I also thought that I could then take the old ones and try to rebuild them with the little motors-- then have spares. Would these work in my two rear side doors? Thanks!

There are right and left hand actuators. The link I provided is for one of each. If I recall correctly, the rear hatch uses a right hand actuator, but I don’t remember 100%. Also, you will need to crack open your existing actuators, but only to remove the arm.

 

[AstRomroMan]

Thanks again to everyone for your help as I try and figure out this problem. This morning, the LC would not start, the battery was dead. It tested at 11V. When I went to take it out, to go and have it tested, I noticed that the negative terminal clamp did not seem adequately tight-- I could turn the connection with my hand. So, Autozone tested the battery as good, just needing a charge. I wonder if this loose negative battery terminal is the culprit. I am charging the battery now, and will install it tomorrow and see what happens. Battery is Interstate MTP-27F - 710 CCA. I am thinking that maybe not enough juice was getting to all the door actuators-- due to such a weak battery and/or poor negative terminal connection.

 

[AstRomroMan]

Well, put in fully charged battery, started her up, and the toggle switches still do not work the front two door actuators.
Think I am going to replace the actuators and hope that is the problem.

 

[nukegoat]

Well, put in fully charged battery, started her up, and the toggle switches still do not work the front two door actuators.
Think I am going to replace the actuators and hope that is the problem.

I suspect you will find success wit that. I dont know why people assume the wires are breaking.

 

[AstRomroMan]

There are right and left hand actuators. The link I provided is for one of each. If I recall correctly, the rear hatch uses a right hand actuator, but I don’t remember 100%. Also, you will need to crack open your existing actuators, but only to remove the arm.

Thanks everyone for the advice, and especially Kershz71. I used your method of buying the "camry actuator set" and then using them to fix both my front doors. Using these actuators fixed my problem, and everything is working. That was quite a tedious task, but the second door was a lot easier that the first! Thanks for your help-- much appreciated!!

 

[AstRomroMan]

My car alarm keeps going off, now and then, when I open the door (it is unlocked and I just open the driver door)-- and the alarm goes off. Do I need to reset something, since I have been working with the door locking system? I also replaced the car battery recently. I have two original key, (one of which I just put in a new case) and the valet key. Thanks!

 

[tman100z]

I just found out mine are going out also after trying to reprogram the key fob remotes. I was not able to cycle the door locks enough to program them. I like the idea of using the camry locks, do you think they will fit all years of the lc/lx 470s I have a 2000 LX