2001 LX470 no crank when cold, Only when Warmer than 40f (1 Viewer)

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Sep 28, 2017
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NJ
Need some help troubleshooting a starting issue on my 2001 LX470.

When I go to crank the car after it’s been sitting outside between 30-40 degrees, it will not crank.
When I try, it will attempt to crank (center console lights turn off ). I hear the relay click.
I see the voltage is steady about 11.6-9v…
Sometimes if I try enough times it will crank. Other times a combo of jump starting the battery and smacking the starter would do it.
it is a AGM interstate battery from 02/22,800CCA.

I replaced the starter last week and still the same.
-replaced fuse box
-replaced battery terminals

What’s odd is when i leave it in the garage (at least 40 degrees) it will start up normally. Once there’s been heat in the vehicle, running for some time, it will start up again without issue until the vehicle cools down to below 40 and the issue comes back.

Is it possible the battery is bad despite being less than a year old? It sounds like it could be my battery but i'm shocked it could be bad this soon.

For now I am going to wait until the car sits outside until temps rise up to 50 to try again and bring the battery to the store to check.

Edit: I have a high output alternator, along with a battery in the trunk to power a amplifier for a sub. I've since disconnected the wiring to the rear to rule that out.
 
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what starter did you install?
will it start with a jump?
are the grounds all good and clean?
 
Try shifting into "N" and or slamming into "P".

If bad starter we'll typically see dash lights dim, same with bad battery if any lights at all. 11.4V is a bit low. So if above Neutral switch is not issue, try charging battery above 12.7V.
 
Try shifting into "N" and or slamming into "P".

If bad starter we'll typically see dash lights dim, same with bad battery if any lights at all. 11.4V is a bit low. So if above Neutral switch is not issue, try charging battery above 12.7V.
I tried this method, shifting into N. No change in behavior. I do not notice the dash lights dim when I try and crank.
 
what starter did you install?
will it start with a jump?
are the grounds all good and clean?
The starter I pulled out was a denso unit. The new one is a duralast gold. Honestly the old one seemed fine as when it does crank it starts very quickly.

the grounds seem OK from the neg battery to the frame. When I pulled the starter I made sure to clean off the body ground connector with sandpaper and a wire brush.
 
today was over 55 degrees so I went out to the LX to try to start it.
Without jumping or even the alternator wires connected, the car started right up.
I’m going to bring the batteries to the store to check but this is very strange…
 
Replaced with a new set of battery terminals, no difference.

What is also strange... when running off the aux battery in the trunk ( main battery disconnected) above 40 degrees with just 9volts the car would turn over and start... I am so lost.

I checked the main interstate battery at the store and it is in good shape, 870 CCA.

The main Engine to body ground wire was replaced with 0 gauge wire
Alternator -> Battery is also 0 gauge wire
 
Replaced with a new set of battery terminals, no difference.

What is also strange... when running off the aux battery in the trunk ( main battery disconnected) above 40 degrees with just 9volts the car would turn over and start... I am so lost.

I checked the main interstate battery at the store and it is in good shape, 870 CCA.

The main Engine to body ground wire was replaced with 0 gauge wire
Alternator -> Battery is also 0 gauge wire
Move the main battery to aux battery tray to see if you have the same problem. This should narrow down the problem area.
 
OH! You've a modified electric system. If battery volts below 12.7V (using a voltmeter), before trying to start. You may be under charging.
 
What’s really odd is as long as I leave it outside until it is above 40 degrees, without jumping the vehicle it will start using the main battery (11.4v), and the aux battery (9v at the time) on first crank.

When I pull my starter relay out and try starting the vehicle, I still hear a click. Is that normal? Does temp affect a relay?
 
Temperature affects resistance. Heat increases resistance which reduces current, cold has opposite effect. It's why door looks fail to work, on sunny side in heat of summer.
 
I bet your battery is bad. Nothing connected to it, each cell should produce 2.1 volts. A 12 volt battery has 6 cells. Minimum No-load voltage is 12.6 Volts on a good battery. The temperature symptom follows along also. If you are ever stranded in the outback, and your battery won't start the car, heat up some water and pour it over the battery to raise it's temperature. The warmed up battery may produce enough juice to start the car.

Take the battery out over night and put it in your warm house. In the morning, hook it up to your cold car and see if it will start it.
 
So after trying a myriad of attempts (new AGM battery, battery terminals, swapping batteries and fuses around etc) i narrowed it down to a parasitic drain on the battery. Enough drain to not have enough cold starting crank after a day or so when parked in the cold but when warm enough it will have enough cranking power to start.

As a test:
1 - When my battery did not crank one day, i swapped it with a new one ( left in the trunk) and it started right up.
2 - 55Degrees out - car did not crank. Jump started with a NOCO and it started right up.

After the engine has been on for some time, the car would start up fine for the next 8 hours (Give or take) regardless of temps.

Next ... to figure out where the drain is coming from...
 
My 2000 LX470 is experiencing this too. Bone stock. No issues unless it sits outside, locked for a few days. Will not crank. Have to jump start It to run. I park it in my garage, unlocked, starts no problem. No idea where to start.
 
how cold is it outside for you? My problems start only when temp drop below 40. I thought it was a parasitic battery drain but turns out to be my neutral safety switch. Try shifting to neutral to start. I used a camp stove to heat the sensor by the transmission and the truck started right up when parked outside..
 
I’m in SoCal. 55-60 degrees, parked for days locked outside and I have to use a jumper pack to get the starter to spin. I replaced my battery a month ago and thought all was good.
 
When not a weak starter, issues with immobilize or neutral lockout SW. But engine fails to crank or crank to slow.

First it's may help to understand. All 100 series, have a minor parasitic draw. So when parked, battery voltage drops a little (very little). Parked long periods, battery voltage drops below a use-able voltage. Lead acid batteries not kept fully charged, sulfate! A sulfated battery will no longer accept a full charge. It's why a relatively new battery, becomes a weak seeming old battery long before it's time. In early stage, it may pass a load test. But voltage after full charge will be on the low side.

He's a few tips that may help:
  • Use a G27 (Group) rather than G24 battery. If using larger than G27, search mud for a mod to increase charging amperage.
  • Turn headlights to off when not driven daily. Leaving on Auto increases parasitic draw.
  • Service battery annually. Clean with baking soda and water mix first, to neutralize acid on top of battery. Remove clamps and clean them their post removing oxidation. I use white lithium grease on post, to stop oxidation. Make sure battery clamps are sung, do not over tighten. This is very simple, just sung the 10mm nut, just until point clamp will no long rotate on post, no tighter. Remember, always remove negative clamp first and attach last.
  • Turn off all accessories, when parking longer than a few days or in cold weather. This is simply to insure, nothing uses battery needless when you key ON to start. Saving charge for the first crank.
  • If not a daily driver. Keep on a trickle charger. This keeps battery health.
  • Make sure: drive belt, pulleys and tensioner. All in proper working order.

If you followed above tips, and still have issue. First; test battery and alternator.

Still having issues, look for excessive parasitic draw. Test for excessive parasitic draw(s). Many good video on how, in YouTube.
  • First thing I consider when testing: is any aftermarket toys wired in. Even the overhead or headrest DVD. Which we think of these as factory, are not. They're known parasitic draws, due to a glitch that often develops. We just pull a fuse located inline under glove box, which disables DVD.
 
Thank you for the great advice, 2001LC.

Here is the update on my LX470:

- Friday, 03.10, Wouldn't start after being parked outside for 5 days. Jump Started it the next day and drove 25 miles home and parked it in my garage, left it unlocked.
- Sunday 03.12. Went into my garage and attempted to start it, Wouldn't start again. Jumped it and drove the 25 miles to work and parked it outside and locked it.
- Monday 03.13 - Went to check and measure the battery voltage, came back at 12.6v. Attempted to start and she fires up no problem. Shut her off and locked her up.
- Today 03.14 - It's 60 degrees and raining. Attempted to start, fired up no problem.

I am seriously so confused. 2 days, parked outside and locked. Starts no problem. I am thinking maybe it is my starter that is starting to fail. I will be performing a Parasitic Draw test after the rain clears up to ensure I do not have a draw before tearing apart the top half to access the starter. Anyone else have any ideas?
 
Thank you for the great advice, 2001LC.

Here is the update on my LX470:

- Friday, 03.10, Wouldn't start after being parked outside for 5 days. Jump Started it the next day and drove 25 miles home and parked it in my garage, left it unlocked.
- Sunday 03.12. Went into my garage and attempted to start it, Wouldn't start again. Jumped it and drove the 25 miles to work and parked it outside and locked it.
- Monday 03.13 - Went to check and measure the battery voltage, came back at 12.6v. Attempted to start and she fires up no problem. Shut her off and locked her up.
- Today 03.14 - It's 60 degrees and raining. Attempted to start, fired up no problem.

I am seriously so confused. 2 days, parked outside and locked. Starts no problem. I am thinking maybe it is my starter that is starting to fail. I will be performing a Parasitic Draw test after the rain clears up to ensure I do not have a draw before tearing apart the top half to access the starter. Anyone else have any ideas?
Been nice if you'd check battery voltage days it didn't start. Had you found ~12.6V those days. Than it is not a battery issue.

If ~12.6 volts.
And if no start, mean no cranking (engine not turning over trying to start)
And you security light is going off when key inserted.
And you've tried shifting hard into park and tried cranking/starting afterward and when in neutral.
Then is very likely your starter is on last leg.

A trick that sometimes works to help get that one more clue, that start contacts are failing. Tap on starter (98-05), with metal rod from tool kit. The tapping, oftentimes moves the contacts just enough to make contact, then it starts
 
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Been nice if you'd check battery voltage days it didn't start. Had you found ~12.6V those days. Than it is not a battery issue.

If ~12.6 volts.
And if no start, mean no cranking (engine not turning over trying to start)
And you security light is going off when key inserted.
And you've tried shifting hard into park and tried cranking/starting afterward and when in neutral.
Then is very likely your starter is on last leg.

A trick that sometimes works to help get that one more clue, that start contacts are failing. Tap on starter (98-05), with metal rod from tool kit. The tapping sometime move the contacts just enough to make contact, then it starts
I wish I did measure the battery voltage those days. That information would have been useful to help diagnose this. Anywho, Last night I performed a parasitic draw test.

I found that I had a 60 milliampere draw. I started pulling all the fuses. I found that Fuse 48, (RR HTR / Rear Blower Motor) in the fuse panel under the drivers side dashboard, was pulling 30 milliamperes. I decided to leave that fuse unplugged and decided to drive the LX home and park it in the garage.

This morning, she started up with no issues. I will continue to monitor and see if this no start issue continues. If it does, I will measure the battery voltage and share my findings. Regardless, I do not have any history of the starter being replaced and I am just 300 miles shy of 240k on the odometer. So I may just order a new one from Toyota and have all the parts needed to perform this surgery at a later dater. Better to have the parts ready to go and not try to drive around on a holiday weekend trying to find an alternator on my Porsche.
 

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