2001 Buildup (1 Viewer)

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I still want something that I can pile the family in and go camping besides my wife's mini van.

I don't want two cars. I have had 2 cars for so long, I just want one for a change.

Look, no one has made any offers and I am going to just see what the market bears. If I keep it, I will sell the 33's and just have a set of 31-32" AT's a little less aggressive than these and drive the piss out of it.
 
Look, no one has made any offers and I am going to just see what the market bears. If I keep it, I will sell the 33's and just have a set of 31-32" AT's a little less aggressive than these and drive the piss out of it.

I CALL FOR A MUD BOYCOTT ON WNGROG! DO NOT BUY HIS CRUISER! IF IT'S NOT SOLD HE'LL BE STUCK WITH IT! THAT WILL BE THE WAY HE REALIZES HOW GLAD HE IS TO HAVE ON THOSE LONG TRIPS! HE'LL COME BACK AND POST HOW GLAD HE IS TO HAVE IT.....AND DUAL A/C, AND ADDED SPACE, AND.......

:D :D
 
I think you should consider an alternative.

Go find a used Honda Civic, Toyota Corolla, Accord, or Volkswagen TDI for $10k, drive the crap out of it for 4 years, and it will pay for itself. You will still have to pay the extra insurance and maintenance, but the cost will not be much.

Yeah man! That Cruiser is awesome. It's the model for building mine up and I'm gonna use your pictures to convince the CFO that we need to do it.

Keep it and buy a little beater Honda civic for your work travel. You can get the 4 cylinder for like 12 or 13K and you'll get a bazillion miles to the gallon. And the difference in your gas bill will off set the cost of keeping the Cruiser.

You'll miss it, guaranteed.
 
Yeah man! That Cruiser is awesome. It's the model for building mine up and I'm gonna use your pictures to convince the CFO that we need to do it.

Keep it and buy a little beater Honda civic for your work travel. You can get the 4 cylinder for like 12 or 13K and you'll get a bazillion miles to the gallon. And the difference in your gas bill will off set the cost of keeping the Cruiser.

You'll miss it, guaranteed.


After driving it all this week I have been leaning toward keeping it. It is just about as fine of a car as I have ever owned. I have a hard time believing that a car with 65,000 miles can be this rattle-free and air tight.

My Duramax was a rattle-trap at 65,000 miles.
 
After driving it all this week I have been leaning toward keeping it. It is just about as fine of a car as I have ever owned. I have a hard time believing that a car with 65,000 miles can be this rattle-free and air tight.

My Duramax was a rattle-trap at 65,000 miles.

I feel your pain. A few months ago, I was dead set on buying a Raush Mustang, but the deal fell through. I took most of the aftermarket goodies off the 100 so that my wife would drive it. I let her drive it for about 2 weeks while I searched for another Mustang that I liked. During that time, I really missed my 100 a lot.

So, last month, I put all the aftermarket goodies back on the 100 and started driving it again. I'm kind of glad the Mustang thing fell through; I think I would have regretted it. So now, I've been looking at replacing my wife's C-Class with a BMW 330i or an Infinity G35. This way, if I want to drive a car for a bit, I'll have a fun one to drvie and still have the 100 just the way I like it.

So to sum up, KEEP THE 100! You'll miss it if you get rid of it.
 
I hear you my DD is an M3...but I still have the LX for the fun stuff. You have to have both a car an a truck I have desided.

And yes..you should keep the 100...if you must get a hybrid for a car for work.
 
I hear you my DD is an M3...but I still have the LX for the fun stuff. You have to have both a car an a truck I have desided.

And yes..you should keep the 100...if you must get a hybrid for a car for work.


Totally agree. The Aero is the fun DD sports sedan, one of the few I could find that combined speed, handling, manual trans, safety, practicality, reasonable reliability, and fuel economy (those last two killed the 5-Series for us). Turbos are so much fun, plus the cooled glovebox is sweet, like a built-in mini-Engel.

The 100 is my wife's DD (yeah, soccer mom - well, when our daughter's old enough to play soccer...), but also family road-trip/camping/mild-4-wheeling/adventure truck.

The MOG is my pure plaything, like its 80 Series predecessor (anyone looking for a built 80?)...
 
Nolen, he is a great guy. Guess what his first truck is? Remember this one?
bluee.webp
 
Nolen, he is a great guy. Guess what his first truck is? Remember this one?

Sure do, the transaction flew through and I was 100% confident knowing he had your old blue truck and you had not bitched about him to me :D
 
REEEEEEEEEALLY old thread, but since it addresses one of my main searches right now:

Did the guy "ats4x4dotcom" ever provide the shocks first mentioned in post #44? Ima "turn down" my front t-bars and I think Ima change my 863s to 866s, and I want a better, longer front shock than the OMEs (but I don't want to spend Radflo, King, Fox, etc. money on them)

Anyone?
 
REEEEEEEEEALLY old thread, but since it addresses one of my main searches right now:

Did the guy "ats4x4dotcom" ever provide the shocks first mentioned in post #44? Ima "turn down" my front t-bars and I think Ima change my 863s to 866s, and I want a better, longer front shock than the OMEs (but I don't want to spend Radflo, King, Fox, etc. money on them)

Anyone?

The OME shocks offer the max travel within the design of the IFS. Extending the length compromises durability.

A few shocks exist that lower the droop though require adding a new upper arm. Again, a compromised setup with very little merit travel-wise and at high expense.
 
So Shotts, you don't think the cost of replacing the upper arms is worth the gained travel? Don't you gain almost a full inch?
 
So Shotts, you don't think the cost of replacing the upper arms is worth the gained travel? Don't you gain almost a full inch?

I wouldn't do it if it was FREE!

*CV angle outside of spec/safe range
*The bushing is not sealed
*The gain of one inch for $1000 (+shock) is rediculous especially when that gain is outside of the normal safe/designed CV range.
*You want to add an inch in articulation? Add 2-inches...changing REAR shocks and for cheap.
 
I wouldn't do it if it was FREE!

*CV angle outside of spec/safe range
*The bushing is not sealed
*The gain of one inch for $1000 (+shock) is rediculous especially when that gain is outside of the normal safe/designed CV range.
*You want to add an inch in articulation? Add 2-inches...changing REAR shocks and for cheap.

Nothing makes me cringe worse than agreeing with Shotts.......
 
I wouldn't do it if it was FREE!

*CV angle outside of spec/safe range
*The bushing is not sealed
*The gain of one inch for $1000 (+shock) is rediculous especially when that gain is outside of the normal safe/designed CV range.
*You want to add an inch in articulation? Add 2-inches...changing REAR shocks and for cheap.

You refer in two of your bullet points to the CV angle outside of spec/safe range and outside of the normal safe/designed CV range. What is that range and where is this information published? Is this published safe range with or without a diff drop? I searched the FSM and came up with nothing.
 
^^^ What...you don't have a Factory Shotts Manual to refer to? :flipoff2:
 

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