2000 Lexus LX470 MPG
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I have not done either of the above mods to my truck, but I don't think adding a regular intake will help at all. If you are routing it to get true "cold air" then perhaps you could see a very slight improvement, but everything I researched back when I was going to put one on my old car pointed to the difference in MPG being negligible.
But then again, I've been wrong before, but I don't think you'll see many on here who have done an intake on their truck. If you do it, I'd definitely be interested in seeing the before and after numbers.
But then again, I've been wrong before, but I don't think you'll see many on here who have done an intake on their truck. If you do it, I'd definitely be interested in seeing the before and after numbers.
Probably will gain better air flow with the KN setup in hot dry enviroments where the air denisty is low and your running your 470 hard.
With the KN oiled air filter there will be oil carryover that will coat the O2 sensor and air duct to manifold requiring freqent cleaning for that reason I use non oiled air filter in my 100.
Been running KN oiled air filter in the 80 for 12 years and if does improve its performance. Last year on a 1600 mile round trip to Moab by way of Kokopelli trail, started the 80 with a orignial type air filter from NAPA by the time I reached Maob I gladly switched back the KN.
With the KN oiled air filter there will be oil carryover that will coat the O2 sensor and air duct to manifold requiring freqent cleaning for that reason I use non oiled air filter in my 100.
Been running KN oiled air filter in the 80 for 12 years and if does improve its performance. Last year on a 1600 mile round trip to Moab by way of Kokopelli trail, started the 80 with a orignial type air filter from NAPA by the time I reached Maob I gladly switched back the KN.
2001LC
SILVER Star
I've seen little to no change in MPG when switching back to OEM from K&N filter. I've manually tracked MPG very closely since day one.
It's been said; "Takes three tanks of gas for our system computer (ECM) to fully adjust to change in octane". Same may be true of filter changed, as air/fuel mixture can alter. Presumable one may be able to short-cut this by disconnecting battery for 30 minutes to reset ECM.
I never had any issue with oily MAF, but was very carefully not to over oil the K&N filter. I removed my K&N over concerns of greater micro particle penetrations. Concern after reading an independent test I saw in a link in Filtration Testing for Amsoil, K&N, Napa, Jackson Racing, Baldwin, and Mazda air filters on a Miata.
I know from street racing days we'd do any thing to increase air throughput. Which included removing air filter and un-capping headers. MPG would drop like a rock, buy obviously I had a heavy foot those days.
It's been said; "Takes three tanks of gas for our system computer (ECM) to fully adjust to change in octane". Same may be true of filter changed, as air/fuel mixture can alter. Presumable one may be able to short-cut this by disconnecting battery for 30 minutes to reset ECM.
I never had any issue with oily MAF, but was very carefully not to over oil the K&N filter. I removed my K&N over concerns of greater micro particle penetrations. Concern after reading an independent test I saw in a link in Filtration Testing for Amsoil, K&N, Napa, Jackson Racing, Baldwin, and Mazda air filters on a Miata.
I know from street racing days we'd do any thing to increase air throughput. Which included removing air filter and un-capping headers. MPG would drop like a rock, buy obviously I had a heavy foot those days.
I've done both (K&N CAI and Flowmaster) and didn't get any change in MPG's. You will get a nice exhaust note especially during spirited driving, but I also have DT headers installed. You won't reach the full potential by doing only one or two mods to the intake/exhaust. To realize maximum gains, you should do it all: intake-->headers-->exhaust (incl high flow cats and muffler).
I know this is a can of worms.... K&N filters are snake oil at best... if they fix a problem... that same problem can be fixed in better ways... I say this based on 100's of hours on an actual flow bench in a former life...
The biggest restriction on most engines is at the throttle body or the carb on carbed engines... yes you need an unrestricted clean smooth flow of air to that point... meaning everything from that point outward needs to be just a little larger than the point behind... causing a funnel effect and air does NOT like to bend just as water does not like to turn... factory intake systems have to fit, perform, and be quite... and be cost effective
The ONLY way you will see a MAJOR change in MPG in this area is if it was hugely restrictive... based on the fact that even a stock intake system will still flow 2x as much air in as a stock exhaust... any air in has to go out...
the stock exhaust is pretty damn smooth for what it is... and I don't see it limiting this engine that much (imho)
you have a very small V8 engine... long rod shortish stroke... nice valve and combustion chamber layout in this 4.7 toyota engine... with a good engine management system...
the real problem is... this is a huge frick'n mass of steel and friction.. TONS of surface area everywhere... big bearings, big brakes, transfer case, differentials, fluids bathing everything, big dense radiator, contact patch with the road... hell it takes force to move this thing DOWNHILL.. a foot off the ground and shaped like a BRICK every outside surface is in contact with the air and it has a square back... it opens a HUGE hole in the air and doesn't close it...
I'm often amazed on the rare trip when I get 15mpg 12.5 -13.5 is my normal range and I check it every tank full.
I would wager I could spend a month and $5000 on every trick in the book and not gain 2mpg keeping the drive-ability the truck has now...
but if it makes you happy... who knows
p
The biggest restriction on most engines is at the throttle body or the carb on carbed engines... yes you need an unrestricted clean smooth flow of air to that point... meaning everything from that point outward needs to be just a little larger than the point behind... causing a funnel effect and air does NOT like to bend just as water does not like to turn... factory intake systems have to fit, perform, and be quite... and be cost effective
The ONLY way you will see a MAJOR change in MPG in this area is if it was hugely restrictive... based on the fact that even a stock intake system will still flow 2x as much air in as a stock exhaust... any air in has to go out...
the stock exhaust is pretty damn smooth for what it is... and I don't see it limiting this engine that much (imho)
you have a very small V8 engine... long rod shortish stroke... nice valve and combustion chamber layout in this 4.7 toyota engine... with a good engine management system...
the real problem is... this is a huge frick'n mass of steel and friction.. TONS of surface area everywhere... big bearings, big brakes, transfer case, differentials, fluids bathing everything, big dense radiator, contact patch with the road... hell it takes force to move this thing DOWNHILL.. a foot off the ground and shaped like a BRICK every outside surface is in contact with the air and it has a square back... it opens a HUGE hole in the air and doesn't close it...
I'm often amazed on the rare trip when I get 15mpg 12.5 -13.5 is my normal range and I check it every tank full.
I would wager I could spend a month and $5000 on every trick in the book and not gain 2mpg keeping the drive-ability the truck has now...
but if it makes you happy... who knows
p
Agreed 100%. I wouldn't bother too much with trying to increase fuel efficiency on the LC/LX. If you're really sensitive to MPG and drive one, you're probably driving the wrong car for your needs. I don't take into consideration the effect on fuel economy on any of the mods I perform. I'm fortunate to only drive about 8000 miles per year, so my fuel cost isn't huge to begin with. That being the case, I'm happy to sacrifice 1-2MPG for the increased 'seat of my pants' enjoyment behind the wheel. To each his own, I suppose.
2001LC
SILVER Star
I'm interested in (stock) peak performance.
Sure my gasoline cost is $20,251.47 in the last 103,282 miles, so a 6% loss in MPG added $1,200 to that. The extra $ spread over the years is not even noticeable, it is what it is, but what caused the drop.
I would like to know why my MPG dropped 6%, of which ~4.00% was after a 100k mile baseline, (OEM parts). I've determined ~1.00% is do to higher viscosity oils & lubes I switched to. It is possible gasoline blends changed as Shell purchased Philips 66 station my have account for a bit, at that time. But I doubt it accounted for more than ~1.00% if any.These integrated system effect each others, like a bad plug can damage the coil or visa versa.
What system or systems were affect by the baseline if any, and which were subsequently from age?
What caused the unaccounted for 4% plus loss in MPG?
So what do you think would be the top three reason MPG drops in a well maintained 2UZ-fe of the 100s?
Sure my gasoline cost is $20,251.47 in the last 103,282 miles, so a 6% loss in MPG added $1,200 to that. The extra $ spread over the years is not even noticeable, it is what it is, but what caused the drop.
I would like to know why my MPG dropped 6%, of which ~4.00% was after a 100k mile baseline, (OEM parts). I've determined ~1.00% is do to higher viscosity oils & lubes I switched to. It is possible gasoline blends changed as Shell purchased Philips 66 station my have account for a bit, at that time. But I doubt it accounted for more than ~1.00% if any.These integrated system effect each others, like a bad plug can damage the coil or visa versa.
What system or systems were affect by the baseline if any, and which were subsequently from age?
What caused the unaccounted for 4% plus loss in MPG?
So what do you think would be the top three reason MPG drops in a well maintained 2UZ-fe of the 100s?
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Tires, not just pressures but speedo changes with tyre wear and tire replacement, which can alter odometer readings, not by much but if your only looking for 4% difference then it can be a factor.
Agree 100% with all ponytl's comments. Huge, heavy vehicle with four wheels engaged all the time. And also agree with 2001LC's comments on the real cost of the inefficiency of the LX/LC. In the scheme of things, it's fairly negligible and at current gas prices, not really a consideration. Over the life of the vehicle, if you own it that long, it might be a couple thousand bucks vs some other trucks (like a late model Suburban that gets 21mpg, my previous vehicle). And I like driving it so much, I'll take the hit. If I was commuting 100 miles a day, I might feel differently and buy a little 4 banger that gets 36mpg like my son's Mazda6.
As for the recent drop in mpg that 2001LC has identified, I'd probably attribute it to winter blend fuel which always seems to impact my mpg about 5%. I wouldn't be surprised if it picks back up in the Spring when the distributors switch over to Summer fuel.
FWIW: What Is Winter-Blend Gasoline, Anyway?
As for the recent drop in mpg that 2001LC has identified, I'd probably attribute it to winter blend fuel which always seems to impact my mpg about 5%. I wouldn't be surprised if it picks back up in the Spring when the distributors switch over to Summer fuel.
FWIW: What Is Winter-Blend Gasoline, Anyway?
in your case it could be as simple as going from 100% gasoline to 10% ethanol that would account for about 4% drop in mpg
I wish I could find gas with zero ethanol. Such a thing is not possible as far I as I know in Missouri.
Another "what ponytl said"...and I'll add that Toyota was probably not focusing on mileage when they spec'd the ratios for the front and rear diffs.
I've had the LX for 6-1/2 years, check the mileage usually monthly, and I've not seen a change in 90K miles. The only time she's not in the ECT mode is on long freeway drives.
I've used no-ethanol 90 octane since a local station got it 2 years ago.
Steve
I've had the LX for 6-1/2 years, check the mileage usually monthly, and I've not seen a change in 90K miles. The only time she's not in the ECT mode is on long freeway drives.
I've used no-ethanol 90 octane since a local station got it 2 years ago.
Steve
2001LC
SILVER Star
Very good point. I did replace tires using same as OEM. Millage did reduced with new tread, which came back as the softer top rubber (~5mm) wore off. Long term trend continued to decline.
Another good point, winter blend does drop MPG. I've recorded a ~8.5% drop between seasonal change in blend. It's also possible winter temp resulting in longer warm ups, along with increased air and fuel densities make-up part of that ~8.5% difference.
Another good point, as this has surely reduce MPG IMHO. But, It's my understanding the EPA mandated this in the 1990's. My MPG test has been running only since 2004. That said, changes ethanol is one possibility I can't rule out, as there is mounting belief it is damage fuel system components, of non Flex fuel vehicles.
Wish I could find no-ethanol. I'd be interest in what your monthly average is and if you saw/see seasonal changes pre post no-ethanol?
parasitic drag is hard to find... with wear you expect things to "loosen up" and have less drag... we use to monitor the temps of everything that turned/rotated looking for heat we had a power steering pump once that for some reason ran cooler than any we ever had.. it got switched between cars... stupid things ... 1/64" extra in the toe setting during bump steer could be a huge amount of drag, the shape / design / fin tube density in the radiator... I was never hands on on this but i know 100s of thousands of $ went into wind tunnel design of how air flowed through and around radiators and what happened to that air after.... something that was huge and might affect 100's is rake... and how it affects drag, I know most here play with the torsion bars and like a certain "look" on how the truck sits... but it could also be adding a couple sq feet of exposed surface area...
just a few things that come to mind
p
just a few things that come to mind
p
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