CharlieS
GOLD Star
That transfer case skid bolted to the transfer case itself would scare me with the terrain I drive over. One good hit and bye bye transfer case.
200 Series Skid Plates - pics and install notes (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter grinchy
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #62
Budbuilt front skid in stainless 3/16” 29 lb
Budbuilt engine skid in red pc 3/16” 41 lb
Removed total chaos aluminum front/engine in 1/4” AL 24.6 lb
Gain 45 lb
Continuing to use the total chaos transmission skid, no issue matching to budbuilt engine skid, use same two stock holes for both skids, no bolt contention.
Dry fit and final install with antiseize around an hour total.
Thoughtful design on front fins allows the engine to hold it up while you get the bolts in.
Budbuilt engine skid in red pc 3/16” 41 lb
Removed total chaos aluminum front/engine in 1/4” AL 24.6 lb
Gain 45 lb
Continuing to use the total chaos transmission skid, no issue matching to budbuilt engine skid, use same two stock holes for both skids, no bolt contention.
Dry fit and final install with antiseize around an hour total.
Thoughtful design on front fins allows the engine to hold it up while you get the bolts in.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
The Budbuilt skids absolutely have access plates for the drain and filter. I'm my own mechanic and am happy with this setup. It is quicker and easier to do than removing stock splash guards (required for an oil change on a stock 200). If you also use Fumoto style valves it is even easier.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
Rob, I saw that new Ineos Grenadier 4x4 has a switch to disable the engine fan for water crossing. Made me think of when you posted this... Clever that they're doing that on a production vehicle. It'll be interesting to see how they turn out.
- Thread starter
- #66
The stock front skid didn't have a hole for the filter, and neither did the TC aluminum front skid I had. Both came off in around 10 minutes. As mentioned, the BB skid does have a filter service hole. It wasn't part of the buying calculus for me. Removing all the bolts on the front would take less than 5 minutes, and it self supports on the engine skid.
I had a lot of evidence on the stock front skid that whoever did do the oil changes previous to my ownership didn't love it (missing bolts, etc). Engine skid was missing the oil drain access plate.
Maybe the Jiffy Lubes of the world are bothered by them.
The Slee skids are back in stock today, in case anyone was waiting for them (like me). On paper, they hit all the main points that I was looking for.
What material did you go with? I'm paralyzed with options/configurations, trying to figure out which to get if I go with BudBuilt skids.
- Thread starter
- #70
my opinion
1/4" steel or stainless - front
1/8" steel or stainless - engine
1/4" steel or stainless - transmission
1/4" steel or stainless - transfer case
1/8" steel or stainless (or AL) - fuel tank
BB says that impacts are usually the leading edge low down on front, and to the transmission skid (behind the front wheels)
Thanks!
Going stainless on everything puts the cost at almost $3K with powder coat, so that's out of my reach. Your first configuration, however, with powder coat is right about the same price and weight as the Slee offering (not counting the fuel tank of course), so I guess I need to look at pros and cons of each.
- Thread starter
- #72
No need to powder coat stainless.
The low care option is a mix of stainless and aluminum, stainless for front and transmission, rest aluminum.
3/16 steel for all except 1/8 for fuel.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
I went 3/16 aluminum the first time, great if you don't plan to bash against rocks, a ton lighter than steel. I'd stick with that unless you do offroad terrain with large rock, ledges and small boulders. My second set was 3/16 stainless, they are like tank armor and about as heavy. I have zero concern for damage in any terrain I could ever throw at them. Neither require paint or powdercoat.
The steel is heavy; like I'm a pretty big guy and I need a floor jack to install the transmission and fuel skids. I can just barely wrestle the engine skid, but use a jackstand to hold the back up while I install the rear mounting bolts.
Mix and match seems like a good way to go, but I think a lot has to do with how you plan to use the rig.
If I did it over, I would probably use a budbuilt aluminum fuel skid; possibly aluminum transfer skid and front skid; with stainless engine and transmission skids.
Give Bud a call, he's a great guy and wealth of knowledge.
The steel is heavy; like I'm a pretty big guy and I need a floor jack to install the transmission and fuel skids. I can just barely wrestle the engine skid, but use a jackstand to hold the back up while I install the rear mounting bolts.
Mix and match seems like a good way to go, but I think a lot has to do with how you plan to use the rig.
If I did it over, I would probably use a budbuilt aluminum fuel skid; possibly aluminum transfer skid and front skid; with stainless engine and transmission skids.
Give Bud a call, he's a great guy and wealth of knowledge.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
Especially for those of us in states with corrosion issues cause by road brine and salt!
RET2
SILVER Star
I went all aluminum, because I really don't need to go anyplace where it wouldn't protect the underside enough. Let's face it LC's are not Ultra 4 buggies.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
Agreed.
But a 200 can definitely get you into places where you need additional protection.
Budbuilt aluminum skids are awesome, and would save your equipment in about any case I can imagine. They just get beat up.
Some other factors to consider are that aluminum does get bent out of shape and retains the bend, where steel tends to "spring back" (it has a memory) and aluminum can act "sticky" when doing things like dragging across surfaces like rock ledges, where steel slides more.
To me, it is all about matching the material and thickness to your intended use.
For example, factory "splash guards" on my previous 80s, 100, and first 200 (and several tacos and tundras) were fine for decades for me, but only because I never went anyplace that I needed the additional protection.
Thanks for all the thoughts. I’m at the absolute beginning of my off road journey, haven’t done much at all. Honestly the big motivator for skids right now is cat protection, but don’t want to spend money twice that I don’t have to so trying to make a good decision.
I don’t know that I’ll ever be the guy that does serious rock climbing, but do enjoy getting a little dirty.
I don’t know that I’ll ever be the guy that does serious rock climbing, but do enjoy getting a little dirty.
RET2
SILVER Star
Just a couple of comments, sure they may get a few gouges, scrapes etc. but they won't spark which is a huge consideration in the SouthWest, it's not a beauty contest, might even make me look Official and lastly being an old geezer that paid cash for my retirement present to myself I am in no hurry to beat it to impress anyone or let my ego override my common sense and wallet. My choices were based on my needs, disposable income and realization I am not King of the Hammers. Others may choose differently and that's fine with me, I'll watch and hold their beer. Cheers
TLC2013
SILVER Star
Before picking up my BB skids I twisted myself into knots debating between cost, weight and material. I knew I didn’t want skids that would rust so that narrowed it down to either Stainless Steel or Aluminum. Comparing weights in a spreadsheet led to me to conclude that the real substantial weight savings comes from going full aluminum (108 lbs vs 225 lbs) which Cuts the weight by over half. I ended up going with aluminum front and SS for the rest. In hindsite I would have gone full SS as my 200 is heavy one and saving 17 lbs with the aluminum front is a drop in the bucket.
The only time I regret not having aluminum is when I am servicing the 200. Each skid is over twice as heavy when performing fluid changes, greasing zerks….etc.
The only time I regret not having aluminum is when I am servicing the 200. Each skid is over twice as heavy when performing fluid changes, greasing zerks….etc.
