200 series picture thread (25 Viewers)

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A few rando pics, many more pics and vids on Instagram. I’m Zombie2hundo thanks

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love the fifteen52 wheels you're running. which size/spec are they? are you using spacers or is that the look you get with their backspacing? considering selling my HE rims and getting those in bronze.
No spacers. They are the 17” with the 5x150 that fit the 200. Currently running 34’s 285/75, considering a cab mount chop at going to 35’s 305/70.

the best part of this particular fifteen52 wheel is the valve stem protection. With these wheels and the KO2s I have yet to change a tire knock on wood. And my wheels get a beating!
 
No spacers. They are the 17” with the 5x150 that fit the 200. Currently running 34’s 285/75, considering a cab mount chop at going to 35’s 305/70.

the best part of this particular fifteen52 wheel is the valve stem protection. With these wheels and the KO2s I have yet to change a tire knock on wood. And my wheels get a beating!
good to know...thanks for the info. It's a great stance without spacers...which I personally think is the way to go.
 
No spacers. They are the 17” with the 5x150 that fit the 200. Currently running 34’s 285/75, considering a cab mount chop at going to 35’s 305/70.

the best part of this particular fifteen52 wheel is the valve stem protection. With these wheels and the KO2s I have yet to change a tire knock on wood. And my wheels get a beating!
I like those as well. I'd expect to get some rubbing without that Dessent bumper, no?
 
I like those as well. I'd expect to get some rubbing without that Dessent bumper, no?
Heh I had rubbing on 34s with the stock bumper. Aside from the inner liner that I cut all to hell, there was a spot on the tailing edge of the bumper at the bottom of the wheel well which was pretty close... enough that I think it would've caught the bottom edge of the bumper on an evasive maneuver.

Thankfully given the amount of liner you'd need to cut to fit 35s you could always "re-shape" the factory bumper with an exacto knife to avoid any contact without really losing any "strength" .
 
Heh I had rubbing on 34s with the stock bumper. Aside from the inner liner that I cut all to hell, there was a spot on the tailing edge of the bumper at the bottom of the wheel well which was pretty close... enough that I think it would've caught the bottom edge of the bumper on an evasive maneuver.

Thankfully given the amount of liner you'd need to cut to fit 35s you could always "re-shape" the factory bumper with an exacto knife to avoid any contact without really losing any "strength" .
You will need a cab mount chop to fit 35's correctly IMO. You can only push the wheel so far forward with adjustable UCA's until you run into the KDSS
 
You will need a cab mount chop to fit 35's correctly IMO. You can only push the wheel so far forward with adjustable UCA's until you run into the KDSS
Do you have the KDSS relo bracket?
 
Ah. yeah without that or a body mount chop 35s will definitely rub the KDSS and/or passenger's side sway bar. I only have 34s and with +25 offset wheels I rub them at full lock.

If you have the KDSS relo folks on here have managed 35s without a BMC. There may still be a slight rub on the KDSS depending on the alignment, but nothing that would shred a tire. Good to know if you BMC you can possibly avoid the KDSS relo.
 
Ah. yeah without that or a body mount chop 35s will definitely rub the KDSS and/or passenger's side sway bar. I only have 34s and with +25 offset wheels I rub them at full lock.

If you have the KDSS relo folks on here have managed 35s without a BMC. There may still be a slight rub on the KDSS depending on the alignment, but nothing that would shred a tire. Good to know if you BMC you can possibly avoid the KDSS relo.
Should note it greatly depends on the width of your 35's. You can get away with a lot more with the 285/75 on r18's. Keeping 17"rims like I want to and going to an inch wider and taller gets dicey, might not do it.
 
IMO, the pushing forward of the tire with alignment is used too much of a crutch on these boards. We know from examples that when pushed too far, it can damage and break the CV. Who's to say that even with medium alignments, that it doesn't cause undue stress and durability compromises to the CV on extreme articulation?

Suspension geometry is king and should take first priority to where things land as I'd wager it's the best way to maximize handling, suspension performance, and durability.

Every other Toyota platform: Tundra, Sequoia, Tacoma, 4R, FJ, leans of body mount chops (BMCs) to make aggressive fitments work.

Having done a BMC to fit my 35s, while still on stock UCAs and factory alignment I might add, it's not really anything scary. And could avoid a whole slew of perceived constraints and compromises. IMO, it's the most direct recipe to making big tires work.


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IMO, the pushing forward of the tire with alignment is used too much of a crutch on these boards. We know from examples that when pushed too far, it can damage and break the CV. Who's to say that even with medium alignments, that it doesn't cause undue stress and durability compromises to the CV on extreme articulation?

Suspension geometry is king and should take first priority to where things land as I'd wager it's the best way to maximize handling, suspension performance, and durability.

Every other Toyota platform: Tundra, Sequoia, Tacoma, 4R, FJ, leans of body mount chops (BMCs) to make aggressive fitments work.

Having done a BMC to fit my 35s, while still on stock UCAs and factory alignment I might add, it's not really anything scary. And could avoid a whole slew of perceived constraints and compromises. IMO, it's the most direct recipe to making big tires work.


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Is that Holcomb Valley? off 3n16?
Nope, that's a frozen/snowed over Wilson Lake off Hwy36
 
200s and water towers go together..

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