200 Series Brake Job - Part Numbers, Torque and How-To (1 Viewer)

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This has been a topic of conversation in the part number request thread, so I figured I would start one dedicated to 2013-2016+ 200s, but we can certainly add 08-11 and turn this into a mega thread.

I have a 13 and and 16 that will be getting new pads (also new rotors on the 2016). Below is a list of part numbers and torque values compiled from the other thread. Thanks to @Sandroad, @OGBeno and @bloc for this data. Notify me of any misinformation and I will get the thread updated. There are some redundancies in p/ns since only the front rotor changed with the 2016+. Note the torque value differences between the 2013 and 2016+.

Please add any tips, tricks, guides (youtube or otherwise) or personal SOPs to this thread!

The question I have at this point is, does the banjo hardware need to be messed with at all and can the brake/rotor job be done without disconnecting the caliper? Is there fluid loss if you separate the line from the caliper?

TRD High Performance Brake Pads (all years):

PTR09-0C111 - (Front)
PTR09-0C110 - (Rear)

2013 Brake Component Park Numbers:
04465-60280 - Disc Brake Pad Set (Front)
04466-60160 - Disc Brake Pad Set (Rear)
43512-60180 - Disc Brake Rotor (Front) Different from 2016+
42431-60290 - Disc Brake Rotor (Rear)
04945-60080 - SHIM KIT, ANTI SQUEAL (FRONT)
04946-60120 - SHIM KIT, ANTI SQUEAL (REAR)
90240-06024 - PIN, WITH HOLE(FOR FRONT DISC BRAKE ANTI-RATTLE)
47715-43010 - Disc Brake Caliper Pin (Rear)
04947-60140 - Disc Brake Anti-Rattle Clip Set (Front)
04948-60040 - Disc Brake Anti-Rattle Clip Set (Rear)

2013 Torque Values:
Front caliper bolt. 73 ft lbs
Hose to caliper banjo. 22 ft lbs
Rear caliper bolt. 65 ft lbs
Caliper bracket bolt. 70 ft lbs
Hose to caliper banjo. 22 ft lbs
Lug nuts, all models 97 ft/lbs.

2016 Brake Component Part Numbers:
04465-60280 - Disc Brake Pad Set (Front)
04466-60160 - Disc Brake Pad Set (Rear)
43512-60210 - Disc Brake Rotor (Front)
42431-60290 - Disc Brake Rotor (Rear)
04945-60080 - SHIM KIT, ANTI SQUEAL (FRONT)
04946-60120 - SHIM KIT, ANTI SQUEAL (REAR)
90240-06024 - PIN, WITH HOLE(FOR FRONT DISC BRAKE ANTI-RATTLE)
47715-43010 - Disc Brake Caliper Pin (Rear)
04947-60140 - Disc Brake Anti-Rattle Clip Set (Front)
04948-60040 - Disc Brake Anti-Rattle Clip Set (Rear)

2016 Torque Values:
Front caliper bolt. 133 ft lbs
Hose to caliper banjo. 22 ft lbs
Rear caliper bracket bolt. 114 ft lbs
Rear slide pin. 65 ft lbs
Hose to caliper banjo. 22 ft lbs.
Lug nuts, all models 97 ft/lbs.

Miscellaneous Small Parts:
91672-L1240 - Caliper Bolt
47449-30030 - Shoe Hold Down Spring Cup (I ended up stripping one of these because I had the parking brake engaged when pulling the rear rotor.)

Video Assets (currently unvetted)

Australian Images Walk-Through (Includes Hand Brake shoe replacement)



Jaffa Adventures Walk-Through
 
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FWIW... you normally can reuse the Anti-squeal Shim's and really the clips as long as they are in good shape. I have a spare set of clips on the shelf, and still have the set of shim's I bought when I first did the brakes. Now I just buy pads and rotors to do it.
There is no reason to remove the Banjo bolts as well.. just the 2 caliper Bolts.

Its every easy to do the job, maybe 20 minutes a wheel after the first time you do it.
 
You do not need to mess with the banjo fitting unless you are replacing the entire caliper. That occasionally has to be done as a result of frozen pistons. I suggest adding the calipers to your parts lists.
 
I'm going through some hot-to videos right now and was watching one from Australia. When replacing the front pads, this person opens up the bleed valve when squeezing the pistons back into the calipers. Is this necessary?
 
I'm going through some hot-to videos right now and was watching one from Australia. When replacing the front pads, this person opens up the bleed valve when squeezing the pistons back into the calipers. Is this necessary?
CCN (all hail his name) just posted another YT vid. He mentions opening the bleeder valve NOT being necessary when compressing pistons. I don't know why he'd specify this, but he did. I have always done this as the fluid/pressure has to go somewhere and I would rather get the worst brake fluid out immediately. But I'm a simple man from the country.

He also mentioned on 4 piston brakes with toyota trucks having the lower inside piston being the commonly frozen one. HTH.
 
Thanks. Can you post the link to the video?


This is the newest video when he makes these claims about the piston compression and seized pistons. He's got an older video for "how to" on the brakes.

mods, idk if this link is "clean" or even if it needs to be. Feel free to change.
 
This is fantastic, and will definitely be taking a look for the next round. I ended up using my shop this last time and in hindsight I have a concern. I retro'd the 2016+ brakes to my 2010, but the last brake job was all OEM rotors and pads. When they were doing the job they said they had to do some trimming on the rotor to prevent rubbing I believe, and in fact mentioned it was something someone else with a 200 mentioned experiencing too.

Any idea what this might be, or is this a 'normal' thing? I unfortunately don't have any other details on 'what' was rubbing etc.
 
This is fantastic, and will definitely be taking a look for the next round. I ended up using my shop this last time and in hindsight I have a concern. I retro'd the 2016+ brakes to my 2010, but the last brake job was all OEM rotors and pads. When they were doing the job they said they had to do some trimming on the rotor to prevent rubbing I believe, and in fact mentioned it was something someone else with a 200 mentioned experiencing too.

Any idea what this might be, or is this a 'normal' thing? I unfortunately don't have any other details on 'what' was rubbing etc.

If they used the old brake backing plates they won’t clear the larger rotor at the lip. Quite surprised they’d take rotor material off though, as opposed to bend the backing plate.
 
If they used the old brake backing plates they won’t clear the larger rotor at the lip. Quite surprised they’d take rotor material off though, as opposed to bend the backing plate.
Maybe that's what they did and bent the backing plate - I know there was a mod they made
 
Maybe that's what they did and bent the backing plate - I know there was a mod they made
That would make more sense, and was documented in the Teckis tundra brake thread. I changed the backing plates on mine but it did add cost and work to the job.
 
04466-60160

It's listed in the original post.
Actually the rear rotor for ‘16+ is missing in your list.

42431-60290​


And in your lists, the first one is listed as being both ‘13 and ‘16.
 
Actually the rear rotor for ‘16+ is missing in your list.

42431-60290​


And in your lists, the first one is listed as being both ‘13 and ‘16.
My apologies. Correction made.

Is this a shared part number between the 13 and 16+?

EDIT: Confirmed on Toyota parts that they do share the same part number for the rear to include 09-11 (2012 non-us).
 
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My apologies. Correction made.

Is this a shared part number between the 13 and 16+?

EDIT: Confirmed on Toyota parts that they do share the same part number for the rear to include 09-11 (2012 non-us).
Just one more clarification in the heading of the first list…….delete that second line.

2013 Brake Component Park Numbers:
2016 Brake Component Part Numbers:
 
I would recommend a full brake fluid replace at least every 100K miles. If you tow a lot or live in an extremely humid climate you might want to do this more often than 100k.
 

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