2 Diesels, 4 Continents

[24vRHD]

Racor

So here is a question about diesel plumbing.

in my experience on other diesels, the return from the diesel rail has gone back to the tank. On my 3B it was plumbed into a barbed T with fresh fuel coming from the tank and heading to the fuel filter. Is this normal? I couldn't find a return line under the truck heading back to the tank.

Because I anticipate some crappy fuel along the way I wanted to put in a RACOR filter and water separator. I bought a RACOR 445R with a 10 micron filter on ebay for $150 odd bucks. I bought this one because it has a primer pump on it.

I installed it on the fuel pump side of the engine, attached to the battery support (made a bracket for it). The primer pump feels very cheap when the pump is dry but once you get fuel in there... Woah Howdy! I bled fuel to the pump and definitively found myself thinking "I really should be wearing safety glasses here," It makes all the pressure you need. I am not sure if my fuel pump is stock (and I really should have a picture of it here because you guys would know in a second) but it doesn't have a priming pump (does that mean this pump is self priming?)

The Racor accepts two inputs and two outputs. I thought I was being clever here by putting the return from the rail into the Racor as well as the line from the tank, then 1 line out to the Pump. This will keep the filter warm which I thought would be a good defense against jelling and the bad news of diesels in cold weather.

Well, if you read your racor manual, it specifically says it should only be used at normal temperature and is not designed for high temperature operations. I took the truck out for a test drive, ran great, no issues but man, that RACOR was HOT!

I think I am going to re-plum with a T again. Hot fuel coming off the return rail meets fuel leaving the Racor and heads into the fuel filter on the engine.

Anybody have any experience with Racors and temperature.

Thanks for your feedback. Sorry I don't have any pictures just yet... Will dig some up.

 

[esh]

If you are running a 10 micron filter (you still have the stock filter inline as well?), you might look at running a helper/lift pump near the tank, like the Walbro. I have an FRB-5, the -2 is 24V. Idea is to not stress your injection pump.

Auto Performance Engineering - Walbro fuel pumps and more

 

[24vRHD]

Thanks Ken,

That is a good idea. A couple questions:
1. Are you running a RACOR or additional Filter? Is it common to run a second filter? I have seen some people put them under the rig but this makes me nervous.

2. If power to the pump is disconnected, will it allow fuel to be drawn through it? (Could it also be used as a fuel cutoff for example?)

Thanks for your thoughts!

 

[24vRHD]

So is 5/16 the stock fuel line size? When I replaced my fuel lines I did it with 5/16 but it seemed like a less than perfect fit. Was it originally done in Metric, like an 8mil line or something? Do fuel/hydraulic lines even come in Metric? Sorry if this is a stupid question but after visiting 3 different hydraulic shops I was able to find many things (including Banjo fittings) but nothing in Metric.

 

[24vRHD]

The Ramsey

We picked up a used Ramsey 9000 previously installed as a rear winch. Currently being stripped down for cleaning and maintenance. This will be our winch up front, nothing on the back. The BJ was loaded on a car carrier yesterday in Baltimore and will arrive at the build site in Colorado Thursday. Lots of work in the weeks ahead!

 

[BeratE]

Oh man, I just left Boulder to live in Oregon! I wish I was back there to help.

 

[mailking]

Coen,

Tell me about starting a 3B on a cold morning, on Bolivian Diesel in La Paz. I've heard that the altitude + questionable diesel + cold can really be a challenge to get the 3B running.

I know I will lose 50% of my power at altitude (15,000'!) but since I am not concerned with speed and have plenty of gears I am sure I will get there. I am worried about the mornings when it comes time for a cold start.

What was your experience, and what tricks did you use? Thanks for your input!

my 2 cents:

I will tell you only of my experience, and not what I have heard off. So we had -20 on the high plateaus and lots of time. So I made sure we parked with the nose heading east where the sun would come up. Open up the hood to let the sun do its work and start at around 11.00 am. I have had no real problems that way.

things to remember:

- make sure your radiator is good and filled with anti freeze.
- the more you top up your tank on a regular basis, the less change you have of a full tank filled with "bad" fuel. So I make sure that I fill up when I am halfway on the tank.
- the 3B will run on any quality diesel, even vegetable oil if needed [only not in the really cold, and you need to replace the rubber connections into hard lines in the fuel lines]
- if your fuel clogs due to the cold, the great thing of not having return lines and a fuel pump in the tank is that you can take a coca cola bottle full of diesel pre heat that in you jacket and feed the injector directly from this bottle!

Adventurous greetings,
Coen

 

[24vRHD]

Thanks very much Coen for your feedback on cold/high starting, that will be very useful! I have no problem sleeping in until 11 if it is cold out anyway

Ok, so in other news, both Diesels have been moving, the pictures are coming quickly...

The Blue truck arrived in Boulder, looking handsome and patriotic!

 

[24vRHD]

looking at the picture again, I reckon it was only a matter of time before it ate that Mini

 

[24vRHD]

Delivery of the hook

After 10 long months I took delivery of the Tow Truck. Here it is leaving its twin in Malaysia and getting on the ferry to Brunei where it got some extra attention from the deck crew.

 

[24vRHD]

So How Does it Work?

So these tow trucks are all custom / home made (as you will see). Clearly they work really well because they are still around and pulling cars 30+ years later. So when I first looked at it I assume PTO driving a hydraulic winch in the crane. These tow trucks are called "crane trucks" over here in Malaysia.

No such luck, its a 2nd transfer case to a second shaft driving driving what I assume is a worm gear in the winch. So to winch, put the T-case in Neutral, engage the winch and use 1-4 to pick up and reverse to lower down. I haven't picked anything up with it yet but it doesn't seem to have any shortage of power!

And now what you really want, the pics!

 

[24vRHD]

Ever seen this before?

So, for those looking closely will notice that to run the winch shaft there was some cutting done to the frame... Hmm... shady.

But, have you ever seen two sets of leaf springs?!

 

[Fantom]

That's a standard PTO winch set up, only difference is that it's been set up to output into the rear (which can be done easily enough). They cut the frame and looks like they used an actual drive shaft not the typical PTO shaft as it is thicker. You have all the important parts there to make a regular PTO winch, just need to make some new shafts.

...and WOW! that's a leaf pack! bet it doesn't flex much.

 

[mailking]

But, have you ever seen two sets of leaf springs?!

Wow, that is some heavy duty solution. I would like that!, but my dream would be some parabolic springs!

Adventurous greetings,
Coen

 

[24vRHD]

Tie Rod Ends

All of the steering rod boots are should be replaced. This is on the BJ-42.

After reading around it looks like the Tie Rod Ends are different between an FJ40 and a RHD BJ40.

Maybe best to just go ahead and buy this:

TOYOTA LANDCRUISER 40 SERIES TIE ROD SET | eBay

Thoughts, any other ideas I can source in the USA before having stuff shipped in from Australia?

Thanks guys!

 

[mailking]

Have you tried Cruisercorps or coolcruisers?

Adventurous greetings,
Coen

 

[24vRHD]

Thanks Coen, I've looked at the links you've sent but am not seeing anything for RHD. Maybe I am missing something. Apparently where the relay rod attaches the connection is tapered such that it can only work one way. As such the LHD TRE won't work on a RHD truck.

Still debating whether best to replace only the boots or just opt for new TREs. The steering does have some play in it, more than I would like, so I think it best to go for new TREs.

It would be nice to go with OEM but having a hard time locating a set of RHD OEM TREs (a lot of acronyms there Hoping that roodogs4wd.com.au can assure me that their TREs are expedition grade.

Anybody ever used their parts, any feedback?

 

[crushers]

the rear output PTO is not an easy swap in a front output gear box but toyota did have a front/rear PTO drive box for a while ... discontinued decades back.
the dual leaf packs is over load leafs, by doing a complete double pack it can keep the ride decent for when no towing is being done and once a vehicle is hooked up the second pack comes into play. i seen setup like this on other makes over the years. seems to work well.

best install an indicator light for when the PTO lever is engaged, otherwise there is a posibility of forgetting to disengage the PTO lever and start driving away. i have seen this a few times now, usually it ends up with a sheared pin or in the case the owner replaced the pin with a bolt, a crunched bumper.

that is a cool rig.

RHD needs RHD steering parts, you can talk to John at Radd Cruisers, he usually stocks these parts.

 

[24vRHD]

Thanks Wayne,

I did notice that the ride is quite refined (for what it is, a 29 year old tow truck). Aside from the headlights and the right turn signal, the only electric component that IS working is a very loud alarm and flashing light that lets you know the Winch is engaged. You would never miss it.

The tow truck made its drive across Brunei without issue and has been deposited in a mechanic of choice that seems to service every old 4by4 in that part of Malaysia. A big shop with lots of cool LCs and rovers hanging about. I wish I had the time to work on it myself but for the cost and the time there is no way to beat this setup.

Will get more pictures of "Captain Hook," as it is now called, once it is out of the shop.

Meanwhile the JDM BJ-41 is getting a thorough service in Colorado.

1. Leaking front pinion seal getting replaced (Is this the same as a seal from an FJ 40?)
2. Radiator mounts have been re-welded
3. Flush, re-flush and flush again the cooling system to clean out years of junk.
4. Sourcing Lower Radiator Hose
5. Anyone know where to find a Radiator Tank? Ours is 30 years old and done.
6. Brakes checked, all good all around
7. Replacing a sheared wheel stud (never got the full story on that from PO)

 

[24vRHD]

The Plan Forward, Debates...

For the BJ-41:

Tires: Debating 31 or 33. Currently at almost 6,000' the 33x12.5 MTs are fine but once we get the Roof Top Tent on there and load it up with all the other goodies we want to see where we stand.

We will most likely go with BFG but are considering goodyear. We have pretty much settled on 10.5 wide and Mud Terrain


2nd Alternator: We are going to add a 12V alternator to charge the 12V housebank. It looks like this is going to have to go pretty low on the engine. This raises concerns about sand and dust getting into the alt. Might have to build some sort of shield to keep it running smooth. We might also need to attach a 2nd pulley for a 2nd belt to get everything lined up. Any ideas on where to find a suitable double pulley?


Car Alarm: We want a trusty but simple car alarm with a two way pager. Anybody have any luck installing something like this on an old LC? We are looking at a clifford or a viper


OnBoard Air: Looking at this setup:

I welcome your feedback team. Thanks!