1st Gen 05 build (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
May 18, 2020
Threads
2
Messages
134
Location
Los Angeles
Hello ih8mud

I bought a used 05 Sequoia almost 2 years ago now, and after having worked it for so long, I've decided to make a build log on it.

This is my first vehicle that I have ever personally worked on, and my first time experiencing offroad type builds. If anything, this is an Adventure Vehicle. A lot of the trips I plan to go on will be slightly off-grid, but nothing towards the expedition level where I'd travel hundreds miles just off road/ off grid....for the time being.

Hope ya'll enjoy it as I try and find / create information for everyone to use! I'll try and document it as well as I can. A lot of these projects have been inspired by mods that are available for other platforms, and mods others have done on the TSOR Facebook group page.

Lastly, I'll put some thoughts on the decisions I've made, and why I went that way. A lot of the decisions was made for a functional purpose, for when and if I needed it. Some of it,

INITIAL PURCHASE DECISION MAKING.

I purchased this vehicle Mid 2019 with the intention of making it a vehicle for road trips / camping. At this time, I was only interested in using it as a family hauler, as my family had sold the minivan around 2010, so we only had sedans. In those 9 years, we went on less road trips and it's something that I wish I had more in my life, even if it was only a handful of times a year.

Initially, I was looking at a 3 row 4runner with v8, but learned that it was a very rare spec, and the trunk space was basically non-existent. After looking around for a few weeks, I found this 05 Limited Sequoia, and jumped on it. After initial inspection, it appeared to be in good condition and the main parts of it were in working order, including the ENGINE, 4X4, TRANNY, AC, FRAME, SOUND (aftermarket with backup camera & android/apple car play), and all of the buttons, except the rear window. All the initial inspection learning was done from Youtube via Chrisfix, and any other Sequoia focused videos.

The Good
1. Frame condition is good
2. Aftermarket headunit, sound system, and backup camera.
3. Engine had good compression
4. 4HI/LO + Center diff activated.

The Bad
1. Missing fender molding (Driver side).
2. Liftgate did not work, but also sensor and trunk light didn't work (later I learned that it was missing a computer unit, and the trunk was the main issues with this vehicle in terms of electrical work)
3. AC dial rarely registers
4. Liftgate lights did not work
5. Driver / Passenger seat was starting to rip.

May 2019, after purchase.

IMG_20190514_141704.jpg


May 2019, two days after purchase.

Initial researched informed me that if the timing belt snaps, the whole engine is toast. My first maintenance jobs on this was to change the timing belt, water pump, pulleys, oils, including diff / transfer case. This was my first time doing this difficulty of job. My only previous experience was changing brakes, a starter in a CRV, and oil change. It was very challenging and it took me 3 days to do as I was missing some tools to brake some bolts. I also did some other jobs that were done on the way to this job.

Good References on Timing Belt DIY

The OEM Repair Manual.

Products used:
Aisin Kit
Mobil1 Synthetic Oil
Redline Gear Oil
Toyota Pink Coolant

Jobs Performed
Brake Fluid Flush
Dash Cam Install
Coolant Flush + Cap Replacement
Serpentine Belt
Timing Belt
Water Pump
Front Diff Fluid Drain + Fill
Rear Diff Fluid Drain + Fill
Transfercase Fluid Drain + Fill

IMG_20190517_154714.jpg
IMG_20190520_145427.jpg


Late May 2019, I took it to Zion to camp with friends.


It was a great time and my first time driving on non-pavement. I've never been "off road" or really on any forest roads. It was a bumpy ride, and I didn't know the concept of airing down. I thought "if has 4WD = CAN OFF ROAD".

This was also the first trip that I didn't book a site for. It was all informal, and was a dispersed site in the Forest. Loved the freedom to move sites as it was windy / raining the 2nd night.

At this time, the Sequoia is still stock, but I've been lurking the TSOR page a lot and seeing where I could go with this.

IMG_20190526_052853.jpg


Late June 2019


I had a misfire in cyl #8. After inspecting the coil, it had a partial crack in it. Decided to go on a budget, and went to the junkyard for a few coils. Replaced the coil in cyl 8, and also bought new spark plugs.

Used Parts
NGK Sparkplug - IFR6A11 or you can go with the Denso Sparkplug - SK20R11 // Both are recommended in the manual, but I went with NGK.
- Electrode gap: 1.0 to 1.1 mm (0.039 to 0.043 in.)
Coil Pack - #90919-02259

I decided to clean the carpet in the Sequoia. Was nasty A F.

IMG_20190630_185440.jpg


August 2019

Took my family to Sequoia National. Was awesome! We did encounter a bear, so that was a tad scary.

VXr7aPb.jpeg


Early August 2019

One of the biggest concerns about bringing more than 5 people on a trip was storage. On one hand, you don't need too much gear, if you need to abandon the vehicle, but you still need some essentials. The current consideration is not "expedition" type trips where I need a get home bag. Most of the places I'd travel to will likely have others around and will be somewhat popular / destination spots. I'd want to go to places where there are less crowds, where there are some physical limitations to where you can go. I'm not very into rock crawling and I just want a vehicle that I can depend on to get to places and back.

The Thule skybox was purchased used for $200, and is one of the larger ones. I also have a plano box I had, but in order to have it in the vehicle, I had to remove a chair in the 3rd row, which reduces 2 seats. I have to make some considerations on how to use part of the roof, but also maximize the rear cargo area. I don't think I need to have a lot of gear, but having to dig through it was quite cumbersome. At this point in time, I also discovered that people had drawer systems in their rigs. This would be a gamechanger, but I don't really have much experiencing wood working. On top of that, wood is very heavy, but going with aluminum is expensive, but has a good strength:weight ratio.

q6TGnMq.jpg


Mid August 2019

On my first trip, I had a big cooler attached to the rear hitch of the the Sequoia. I didn't know much about exhaust heat, and the exhaust was pointed directly at my cooler. It melted part of it so I decided to angle the exhaust. I went to a random muffler shop I found, and they did this for $20.

Thoughts in 2021, as I write this: regret doing this, and wish I had went a different direction. I think today I'd consider cutting the muffler, and then angling the piping so it aims down or to the side. Unsure how this would be achieved, but it's something I'd consider.

5lu9Cf8.jpg
b41bc1e3c6104c2b9887c49fb672341c.png



Sept-Oct 2019

At this point, I decided that I wanted to install ATW3's 33s (285 70 17) onto my Sequoia. I wanted it to be capable of going up roads with confidence, and also going snowboarding without the need of tire chains most of the time. We go snowboarding multiple times during the winter and chains were required at times. Safety was a huge factor in going towards this route as in my previous SUV (AWD 06 CRV), I slid on ice roads in Mammoth thinking "AWD = TRACTION". I also wanted to experience something new, learn more about working on cars, & have the ability to take on new challenges with the Sequoia.

I decided to go with a modes and economical lift kit, and also change the LBJs after reading the horrors of its failure.

Thoughts in 2021: I wish I went with something better for the front such as OME or DOBINSONS.

Parts Used

FRONT SUSPENSION

Bilstein 5100s on Bottom Notch with OME 2885 in the FRONT.
- Also had to use Energy Suspension Coil Isolator to seat the new coil for the front.
TOYOTA OEM LBJS.
SPIDERTRAX 1.25" WHEEL SPACERS.

REAR SUSPENSION

OME 60024L with OME 2865 in the REAR
- Purchased additional washers at Home Depot for the shock mount.
FREEDOM OFF ROAD UCA
- Fair price. Their CS is pretty good at responding, but I wish their information was more complete. The nut they use is non-standard and can't even be purchased at McCasterCarr.
- Part is IMPORTED.

VPWLrR5.jpg
O31GCJO.jpg


Wf6HGCh.jpg
ih3OQek.jpg


Oct 2019

Finally finished the suspension upgrades, and got the tires mounted. Looks awesome. However, the alignment couldn't be finished due bad LCA lower bushings.

I also installed a light bar + ditch lights + a rear diff breather. I decided to go all the way to the top of the engine bay. I realize it's a long route, but I had to purchase a long strip of fuel line anyways. The bumper cover was removed so I could drill through the actual bumper. then I spray painted it to try and protect it.

Lastly, I installed a random net I found on Amazon. Works fairly well, but the net isn't tight enough. It works fine for people under 5' 10".

Parts Used for Lights
Nilight Ditch Lights
Hood Brackets (Crappy), I suggest these instead.
- If you use the GSPOWER ones, make sure to install them with help. These bolt up to the hood hinge via 2 bolts each side and someone should hold the hood while it's being installed.
Switch / Wiring Harness for Lights
Some random brand Light Bar. I'd post the link, but it sucks.

Misc Parts
Net

Diff Breahter Relocation Parts
Fuel Line 5/16" ID
Axle Plug - 90404-51319
Breather - 90930-03136
Hose Clamps - 5/16" - 7/8" (get a kit from HF or go to a parts store for some good ones).

Thoughts in 2021: Wish I went with a diff breather kit as it looks janky, but it works and I saved a few bucks so not much regret.


1euK8SF.jpg
03oFMon.jpg


q72a5J6.jpg
vqGadSz.jpg
fDWN66x.jpg

q4MHSeV.jpg


Sept 2019

Nothing special, but I got an ARB awning, and went to Big Sur. It's about a 40 minute drive to this point from the highway and it was all "off road" per se. Was a great ride as I aired down and used the newly installed lights. Also installed WeatherTech window deflectors - they're great for cracking the window slightly open for some air flow. I had also started prototyping an aluminum roof rack.

Thoughts on the roof rack in 2021:While I was able to save $300 from the cost of what it was to get the roof rack from Sherpa, their roof rack is designed better and looks better. I definitely recommend checking them out during their BF sales as it's around $1000 USD shipped.

Airing down was something else with the ARB tire deflator. The instructions were a tad confusing, and I definitely recommend trying it out at home before using it in the field - this should really apply to any new piece of equipment.

The last piece of this whole thing was a tire inflator. I mistakenly opted for the Viair 85P, and should have gone with the 88P. It has a higher cycle time, and attaches directly to the battery, instead of the 12V plugs. The 85P was able to get me up to 25-28PSI, which isn't the best, but got me home for now.

While at Big Sur, I spotted an imported LandCruiser and was able to speak to the owners. They were from Sweden and the LC was imported from Saudi Arabia due to the specific spec they wanted. It was truly a sight to see. They were traveling the world in the LC and were here on a travel permit with the vehicle.

Big Sur was beautiful!

WIAWy70.jpg
DFqxo9o.jpg

M6CSuJi.jpg
EmHzaeN.jpg
Qu6Yf6N.jpg
oVHVAbx.jpg


 
Last edited:
Amazing pics - your hard work paid out big...living the life!
 
Sept 2019 Continued.

For some reason, I decided to make my own roof rack. I'd go more into this project, but I'll save you the trouble, and recommend that you get the Sherpa rack during Black Friday, and you'll save a bunch of trouble & money. I saved $300 DIY after coat, but I'm not 100% satisfied with it at the end. You can see more photos of it later.

8020 bars can be found at a great price via tnutz.com, but also 1/4"-20 carriage bolts do NOT fit the 1020 bars unless you grind off some of the carriage head.
Lastly, 1/4-20 is not compatible with M6-1.0 in terms of thread. The M6-1.0 has more threads and will make the 1/4-20 thread unusable after.

When selecting your own bars, make sure to just stay consistent with the thread. I prefer metric over standard as there are more lengths to cover, but unfortunately, the sized hardware for these things are more readily available in 1/4"-20, even from McMaster-Carr.

Look at the suggested hardware as I've done a lot of research on this.

Suggested Hardware to go into the Rails // All of these use 1/4"-20, so please use those bolts.
Drop in Nut with Stud via MCC // SAME PART VIA TNUTZ.COM
Drop in with Ball
Economy T-Nut

8020 Bars Hardware
tnutz.com

M6-1.0 x 25 for the side mounts.

Thoughts on the roof rack in 2021:While I was able to save $300 from the cost of what it was to get the roof rack from Sherpa, their roof rack is designed better and looks better. I definitely recommend checking them out during their BF sales as it's around $1000 USD shipped.

r74qtWL.jpeg
YXS0rhH.jpg
rh8HgDK.jpg


Oct 2019

At this time, my axle boots decided to start tearing up. There are two routes to go for this, and I opted to try the orange boots. In general, it's a very messy and dirty job. You need a vice, snap ring pliers, and a few other tools, but nothing special or specific. Link to some help via FB.

Also worked on the eBrakes. This was not fun, and it took forever to get adjusted and properly seated. A bunch of clamps are required.

Lastly, I installed poly bushings into the LCA I had and don't recommend them. They squeak way too much unless you install a zerk and keep greasing them.

Used Parts
Inner CV Axle Boots - Price has raised since I purchased in Oct 2019. Was $55each before shipping,
Mobil1 Synthetic Grease - Grease for the boots.
Worm Drives - They were used instead of the generic clamp ones that are used normally.

Alternative Parts
Inner CV Axle Boots- These are emphi.
Outer CV boots - BECK/ARNLEY 1032818 or go OEM

aLxAZf0.jpg
BRbazaW.jpg

XPapvGt.jpg


Early Jan 2020

For the longest time, I wanted the GOBI LADDER for the rear of my Sequoia. However, I disliked that I had to have the hatch closed in order to utilize it. I decided to go with a custom fab one on the side. It cost $350 after coat. It's fairly well made, but I wish I made the lower end (the first step that is flat bar) more outward of the vehicle so I have more space to step. I usually step on the tire first, and use the ladder to pull myself up, so it isn't a big deal.

Attached is also a photo of how the bottom of the ladder mounts. It's also drilled through the roof rack with lock nuts, etc.

We also went to Joshua Tree and went to the BLM land. It was OKAY. I'm not so sure how I feel about just open flatland.

A8Jeiyd.jpg
ungyQLQ.jpg


VItpXZm.jpg
BtphFUi.png



May 2020

Well, I went on an international trip for about a month, and was focused on work so I didn't have time to do anything or go out on top of COVID and all those restrictions.

After some travel restrictions were lifted, I went out to Nevada for some camping / hiking. I borrowed the RTT and it was my first time ever using it. Really cool piece, but I didn't enjoy deploying it, or putting it away. Also used those traction boards to level the vehicle...perhaps this is the only use I'll ever get out of them, haha.

f8E1jNG.png



June 2020

Finally found a skid plate at the junkyard. Didn't spring for an aftermarket one yet unfortunately!

nrx6dnY.jpg


Also found this Ram laptop holder on Offerup for $30. I got the iPad mount for $33 separately, and it all worked out!

Tablet Holder Link // compatible with iPad Pro 11 inch. GPS module needed if WiFi only iPad, such as Garmin GLO 2

Hd2DYm8.jpg
e1X2JZN.jpg


August 2020

The AC wasn't working optimally, and I found that the A/C Condenser Fan Assembly was not spinning at full speed. I decided to replace it and also change the radiator since I didn't know when it was last changed. I did do a coolant flush when I got it, but doing this extra maintenance gives peace of mind. Part of the peace of mind comes from the fact that the transmission oil passes through the bottom of the radiator and if it failed, there's potential for the famous toyota pink milkshake.

While doing this type of coolant maintenance, I decided to prevent some of the major failures of the cooling system the 2UZ-FE. The t-fitting corrodes over time and can break causing coolant to go all over the place. And the PVC valve can be jammed up with carbon.

Some notes on the PVC Valve - It's easy to replace. Just make sure it's hand tight. I couldn't find any torque spec on it, but you only have room for a wrench there. It has some red dry loctite material on it and it's attaching to aluminum, so don't go too tight - hand tight, and then a little bit more should be fine!

No photos, but I also greased the zerks on the joints and UCA with red moly.

Reference
A good tutorial for the PVC Valve.
How a PVC Valve/System Works

Parts Used
TYC AC Condenser Fan Assembly TYC 610790
DENSO 2210518
PVC Valve - #12204-50030
T Fitting for Heater Hose - 87248-60460

sc8trQo.jpg
tzxX7Gf.jpg

mAyijM4.jpg
aVmHXhm.jpg
 
Last edited:
August 2020

After a lot of time with work from home, but also getting cabin fever, we made some time to go to Sequoia again, but this time we went to a dispersed site. I was also able to use my drawer system that I made in an afternoon (that I later took apart because I hated it, and it was too big / heavy).

Our site was alrite, because the better one was already taken (with the view and where the car is), but I didn't mind. Was great being surrounded by the great outdoors.

I also got a Whynter 45Quart for really cheap, and ran it off the rear 12V on the sequoia. It killed the battery since my battery was really low to begin with. Good thing I carry a Audew lithium battery jumper. The fridge was a game changer. No more ice, and having to dump water, etc.


X8ssk5l.jpg

o2JZ0S7.jpg
PVs4q4x.jpg


DLQgfAA.jpg
Y7DwlFi.jpg
 
Last edited:
Sept 2020

The battery finally gave out and would die when parked overnight. I decided to get a Duracell Group 31 from Sam's Club. They ran a special where you get the membership for free basically, so I went for it.

The first one died after 2 days, so I got a replacement after some hassle. Their policy / CS allowed me to return the battery instead of going for an exchange which I wanted.

It fits in the stock location with the stock bracket (thought it's being overworked). The battery basket has to be cut on one edge in order to fit it.

cQy4S9h.png


Mid Sept 2020

And now, I finally get to install my BFF bumpers & sliders. It's been something I've been wanting to try for a long time. I often reflect about how I grew up, and how I didn't grow up - things I didn't experience, and traditionally, I wouldn't have ever made this type of purchase or go down this road. But after saving my pennies, I decided to spring for it and get them.

For a long time, I was thinking about going the DIY path (Coastal Bumper) ,but after doing the math and hiring a welder, it was about the same for the front, and just didn't look as good. And for the rear - there was no other option on the market.

Billy and his team were amazing. They were really friendly and explained a bunch to me about how everything worked, and some metal working tips. I did this all in one day, and it was quite the adventure getting it done.

I don't have photos, but eventually I got the sliders powdercoated (bolt on option), and I spray painted the portion that was welded to the frame.

GGKfu2K.jpg
HriGh7C.jpg
z2wjV1I.png
 
Sept 2020 to Nov 2020

With the dual swingout, I wanted to increase the convenience of deploying camp, and have things mounted. The little table was going to help with this setup, but also, I had this big space on the left swingout to make something.

I'm not an engineer by trade, and never really worked with fabrication, but I decided to give it a try anyways. The considerations I made were with building a possible bike rack adapter, similar to the one that Summit Cruisers Jr made via expeditionportal.

s2cRfmS.jpg
ARu2X0y.jpg
UbX1oH2.jpg


I wanted a place to store a pelican box, and a cooler. Looking back, I wish I made some changes to how this was all constructed in order to save on cost, but also make the box mount better (everything is strapped down) & locked, but it felt rewarding making the part from start to finish, rather than buying it. Well, also there wasn't really an option for buying this either as BFF didn't offer it (to my knowledge).

At this time, I still didn't completely think about the mounting mechanism for the bike carrier as I had continued to use my Thule bike carrier.

Thoughts in 2021,if I could back, I should have designed a trailer hitch installed the cooler/pelican carrier. I also wish I didn't make the bottom part of the box, like a triangle. Also discovered Dissent Offroad and simply - WOW.

d4339911a0267195fb9c722d1ed68a63.jpg

ce9f13bbbdbcd19a1ee131d2cbfb4d14.png
1615342844876.png
 
Last edited:
Ongoing Projects - Dash Mount System

For a long time now, I've been wanting a way to mount my phone better on my dash. I purchased the windshield suction mount ram mount for my phone, and while it's good, it sometimes falls, and takes up a lot of space visually.

158920842_10222410167755639_8397120513768895762_o.jpg

You can see the ram mount on the windshield here

There's a lot of support for popular / new vehicles, and for a long time, I decided to just settle and live with the current mount. Companies such as Rago make additional mounts that you can attach RAM attachments onto.

However, one of the bigger issues with the 1st gen tundra/sequoia is that the dash is one piece. On newer vehicles, they use multiple pieces to construct the dash, so if you break one piece, it's a lot more forgiving.

136357362_10221916093884101_2998747080081187260_n.jpg


Initially, the idea was to make a complete 3D printed one with double sided adhesive. After some calculations, the print time, chance of failure, and also the amount of material would be too much - but also the appearance wouldn't be as good. Some people also showed me their DIY solutions on 1ST GEN TUNDRA group on FB. Link here, and I realized that it had to be drilled through in order to create a solid mount.

136457432_1200388083697751_970665302980616922_n.jpg
136961879_1200388907031002_6861407678629525042_n.jpg


So I started working on a design. The first thing to do was to mock up a general idea. Then after that, we had to get data on the dash in order to create proper spacers.

I used a 3D scanner to get the dash. There are some spots that were hard to capture, but that's because of how the scanner captures data & the fact that the dash is one piece, and doesn't have features to help continue the scan.

JB5jkmL.png


Then I made a quick mock up based on a design I thought would be smart, but I ended up scrapping it. The right shows a general approach to how it would mount. Screws, custom spacer, dash, custom spacer, nylon lock nut. It will also mount 1mm above the dash with the spacers, so it doesn't sit on the dash itself.

fb3bebb5a9c90334680ff19225ea65ca.png


dcfca85584235e0f1528edc96fc29425.png
ceef98c6f43b0796bdea91ef00bd82cf.png


Then after printing the initial, I had to increase the ram mount mounting surfaces after realizing mine was too small, and adding a radius so it doesn't stab the dash later.

e4d27d69fb19d48f10a5d8df8d1253df.png
93f64b2f816f49b30f95d79db64bfc4b.png
18fda0971aa4ed4104f9c36795bc0649.png


Added additional holes for potential mods / add ons. Unsure if it's too close to the bending radius. I have to check with fab, but it probably is. Hole for ram mount was too precise, so I had to expand it in the next version.

edadf9f7697264a2194bc573ff2ffb67.png
bad8db08356cf15395c67288e14508c6.png


Working version 1 - Too close to front lip. My initial measurement of the angle wasn't good, so I have to adjust the curve.

l8wBooi.jpg
g2bCjQn.jpg


The floor was used as a reference of 0*, and then this was taken as a reference relative for the car dash so I can get a near to true 0* measurement for the top of the mount.

HGeb6r4.png


Next version, added more angle / material in the back of the part to lift it and adjusted the curves of so I can move it up more.

Y2P2biu.jpg
Qq9sOQS.jpg


At this point, I think it's just about ready to go. Next thing to do is to make a template, and do a test install after I get one fab'd up.

I'll add dates later to this, as I'd like to archive that :)

Updates
4/8/21 - Link to Post // Refined the side profiles and overall fitment of it on the dash.
4/15/21 - Link to Post // Finalized Design! Sent to cutting in 1/8" steel.
4/28/21 - Link to Post // Made a production unit out of steel. Made a 3D printed template.
 
Last edited:
What tires and wheels are you running? I have some 285/70/17 Toyo ATs on stock wheels and get some frame rub at full lock both sides.
Installed some Spidertrax 1.25" spacers and then got some pretty serious interference on the back side of the wheels well.
So solved one problem and created another. I have a 2.25" front suspension kit coming soon, but not sure if that will be enough.
Just curious what brand/model tire you have and if you had any rubbing or had to do any mods to make them fit?
Maybe the Toyos are just a bigger 285/70? Maybe some 0 offset wheels to split the difference between stock and the 1.25" spacers?
 
Last edited:
What tires are you running? I have some 285/70/17 Toyo ATs on stock wheels and get some frame rub at full lock both sides.
Installed some Spidertrax 1.25" spacers and then got some pretty serious interference on the back side of the wheels well.
So solved one problem and created another. I have a 2" front suspension kit coming soon, but not sure if that will be enough.
Just curious what brand/model tire you have and if you had any rubbing or had to do any mods to make them fit?
Maybe the Toyos are just a bigger 285/70?

285 70 17 FALKEN AT3W. Wheels are by Black Rhino with -10 offset with 4.360 backspacing (Part #1785BTM-06140Z12). I used to run the spidertrax spacers (1.25inch aka 31.75mm), but took them off for wheels.

The OEM wheels have a +15mm offset, so I'm at 25mm from stock - I could not find information on the backspacing, but I think it's around 4.360. I wish I did go 1 step up with more offset to tuck a little better. I sometimes rub when aired down at full lock on the passenger side when turning right at the back side of the wheel, but it's very small.

As far as your issue goes regarding the rub with the back side of the wheel well, the first issue I see is that you're not lifted. The tire is wider, and taller than the stock, so you don't have enough room for the tire in the well until you have the lift installed, and move the center of tire further from the body of the vehicle. Then after you install the lift, you need adjustable UCAs to have more adjustable caster. I suggest SPC as a good number of people aren't happen with the freedoms, but they are a good budget option.

I currently have the freedom UCA ones, but it looks like they only offer around 4* of Caster, but it looks varied / inconsistent with other people's specs. I currently get 3.6* and that's not great and where it needs to be. I'll be getting SPCs sometime this year when I upgrade from the 5100s to dobinsons or something else, but I can live with this for now.
 
285 70 17 FALKEN AT3W. Wheels are by Black Rhino with -10 offset with 4.360 backspacing (Part #1785BTM-06140Z12). I used to run the spidertrax spacers (1.25inch aka 31.75mm), but took them off for wheels.

The OEM wheels have a +15mm offset, so I'm at 25mm from stock - I could not find information on the backspacing, but I think it's around 4.360. I wish I did go 1 step up with more offset to tuck a little better. I sometimes rub when aired down at full lock on the passenger side when turning right at the back side of the wheel, but it's very small.

As far as your issue goes regarding the rub with the back side of the wheel well, the first issue I see is that you're not lifted. The tire is wider, and taller than the stock, so you don't have enough room for the tire in the well until you have the lift installed, and move the center of tire further from the body of the vehicle. Then after you install the lift, you need adjustable UCAs to have more adjustable caster. I suggest SPC as a good number of people aren't happen with the freedoms, but they are a good budget option.

I currently have the freedom UCA ones, but it looks like they only offer around 4* of Caster, but it looks varied / inconsistent with other people's specs. I currently get 3.6* and that's not great and where it needs to be. I'll be getting SPCs sometime this year when I upgrade from the 5100s to dobinsons or something else, but I can live with this for now.

OK, thanks for the info. For now I can live with the inside rub, so I'll install the lift and see where I'm at and go from there.
I guess I need to look at some UCAs to get more caster to push the wheels forward a bit.
I need new tires anyways, and was thinking of just dropping down to a 265/70 tire but would rather stay with the 285s.
Obviously it can be done, and it looks like UCAs are the key (along with a lift).
 
Also, the reas
OK, thanks for the info. For now I can live with the inside rub, so I'll install the lift and see where I'm at and go from there.
I guess I need to look at some UCAs to get more caster to push the wheels forward a bit.
I need new tires anyways, and was thinking of just dropping down to a 265/70 tire but would rather stay with the 285s.
Obviously it can be done, and it looks like UCAs are the key (along with a lift).

If you're installing the lift, I'd stick ti where youre at or go 275 70 17 to save some trouble. Also remember cv boots for the new angle from lift.
 
Fire Extinguisher Bracket Project // Basically Finished.

As I dive more into this, the more I realize how important practicing safety is. I have never experienced anything near a dangerous fire but have seen a car on fire on the side of the road, and even saw a vehicle that caught on fire, that was extinguished at Home Depot. It was a sign for me to started on this project.


qyYKRH2.jpg
CUHJNri.jpg


Initially, I tried to skip doing this project by buying a bracket that will hold the fire ext, but they were either too expensive, or it didn't exist via velcro. Most of the ones I found on Amazon were for SXSs and were bar mounted so the velcro straps horizontally. This would have worked, but if I get a cloth molle, I'd need a vertical strap. Another issue I found is that it had too many straps (3), or it didn't support the circumference of the fire extinguisher I was getting (12"). This is best cloth mount I found, but it didn't come with vertical straps, and I wanted the fire ext to be placed vertically so I have quick access to it. Then when I received the fire ext, I didn't realize it came with a wall mount bracket, and I just decided to make my own.

2d27156140434ef72d883c34f3e639f0.png


I was gifted a molle panel for the back of the seat, and it's made of a plastic polymer, so I had it scanned in. I only needed a portion of it, as this is the portion that covers the bracket that was included with the fire extinguisher. If the bracket isn't sufficient to hold the fire ext while the vehicle is moving, I also have long velcro ties to help strap it in that will easily go through the molle.

a2e914c889d195046fce961820a64263.png


68ebc28285a0b75d8e5a20338c3e7c33.png
4fbdde603cef94a29e14c50adfd39e91.jpg



After remaking the molle, the bracket included with the fire ext was remade for reference to the mounting points.

44863518e74394c4bc84bed671a5ed13.png
137ea7370182b04778db60ca77b4ab98.png


As I write this, the part is being printed. After I make sure it's good to go, I'll be adjusting it for some visual appeal like rounding out the holes. for the nuts etc.

====

Just got it printed & went to HD for some bolts & nuts. Didn't have the ones I wanted to use, but no biggy, at least the size & style is similar.

Iw9b0ko.jpg
vF5K4UY.jpg


Since the fire ext is about 5lbs total, it tilted a little & I need to secure it. I had a strap to add to the molle panel for the time being. I am getting some high-vis ones to replace the strap. I'm going to go with Wrap-It Orange cinch Straps. They have a SS buckle and are velcro.

8YvwFrv.jpg
HSGfdow.jpg


Just reprinted it with some modifications. It's a bit taller now so that it covers the nut and has a better slot for the nut itself.

1616037014199.png


qz9sYBD.jpg




Parts Lists
Molle Panel for Seat
Fire Extinguisher
- A special note on the fire extinguisher. This was the most affordable x most compact I could without multiplying how much it would cost.
- It is also ABC rated, and not just BC. Another I considered is KID21006287MTL.

Fixtures Used
94645A101
97654A211
 
Last edited:
ONGOING PROJECTS - Fire Extinguisher Bracket Project

As I dive more into this, the more I realize how important practicing safety is. I have never experienced anything near a dangerous fire but have seen a car on fire on the side of the road, and even saw a vehicle that caught on fire, that was extinguished at Home Depot. It was a sign for me to started on this project.

qyYKRH2.jpg
CUHJNri.jpg


I was gifted a molle panel for the back of the seat, and it's made of a plastic polymer, so I had it scanned in. I only needed a portion of it, as this is the portion that covers the bracket that was included with the fire extinguisher. If the bracket isn't sufficient to hold the fire ext while the vehicle is moving, I also have long velcro ties to help strap it in that will easily go through the molle

a2e914c889d195046fce961820a64263.png


68ebc28285a0b75d8e5a20338c3e7c33.png
4fbdde603cef94a29e14c50adfd39e91.jpg



After remaking the molle, the bracket included with the fire ext was remade for reference to the mounting points.

44863518e74394c4bc84bed671a5ed13.png
137ea7370182b04778db60ca77b4ab98.png


As I write this, the part is being printed. After I make sure it's good to go, I'll be adjusting it for some visual appeal like rounding out the holes. for the nuts etc.

Parts Lists
Molle Panel for Seat
Fire Extinguisher
- A special note on the fire extinguisher. This was the most affordable x most compact I could without multiplying how much it would cost.

Fixtures Used
94645A101
97654A211
Very nice, just remember, most fires in cars are caused by electrical issues. You have to kill the source to put out the fire. You can spray all the extinguishers you want, but until the battery is disconnected, not going to stop burning
 
Very nice, just remember, most fires in cars are caused by electrical issues. You have to kill the source to put out the fire. You can spray all the extinguishers you want, but until the battery is disconnected, not going to stop burning
That's great info. Appreciate it!
 
Custom Engine Bay Brackets for ARB Compressor + Electrical Panel

The short version is that no one makes an ARB compressor panel for the 1st gen. There's a lot of room in the engine bay, at the passenger side near the firewall / the airbox.
Some versions do not have the large ABS module so there's A LOT of room to work with. In that corner of the engine bay, many people put a 2nd battery there.


Richard Price in the 1stgen tundra group on FB was able to fab up a custom bracket that is compatible with the ABS module & also relocate the power steering res. I currently do not have plans to add a 2nd battery, so I'll be working on a bracket that will hover over the ABS module....if it fits there.

The 2nd part of this project, is that I need some room to put some electrical components and other things. Of course, no one makes a bracket....but Sal Rosal came up with a really good one.
Photos below by Sal via Sequoia Forum

22e287a588cb1861fea2e16a8a1a653f.jpg
a9bba5a710d69a5d0b47584659523312.png
df7efc750619ae62fc5e2e10c2260932.jpg


For now, I've started to get a scan of the part of the engine bay that I need. I would have done more, but my laptop ran out of juice & it was getting cold.

2fd86d1991299bcedd04d2d4626a7997.png


Updates
3.28.21 - Will be fabbing one locally, then will be scanning that in for final adjustments.
4/15/21 - It fits above the ABS module, but slightly towards the center. The hood blocks the clearance due to the support channels.
 
Last edited:
Mar 2021

Overtime, some rust has started to slowly accumulate on the driver side, rear passenger door, along the C pillar.
Not being a body repair specialist, I just got a dupli-color pen and went at it.

It was pretty easy. First I sprayed rust reformer on it. Then I went to the pen. The tip of the pen is an abrasive material like sandpaper. You scratch away the rust, and then use the brush to fill it. Then follow up with the clear coat.

The goal wasn't to make it look amazing - the rig has a lot of dings and such, but this will help the rust from spreading & covering the bare metal...for now.

BEFORE

qHoMkxK.jpeg


AFTER

SvbH9ai.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Misc Installs on the Roof Rack // Pics to follow.

Some things I installed on the roof rack so far are:

Rigid Tool Boxes
Pelican BX85S (was on sale)
Waterport
ARB Awning (sold)
OVS 270 Awning Passenger Side.

I'll be updating the post with more information on how I mounted it and such, but this previous week, I just installed the OVS awning and I'm really happy with it. For the size x price + discount I got on it, I'm very happy. It took a little while to get the hardware / bolts worked out, but here are some specs if you need it.

Pelican BX85S with RFMT001SC
- SS 1/4-20" x 0.5 inch // For some reason, the ZINC PLATED ones are about 2x more expensive than SS.
- M7 Washers 7.4 mm ID, 14 mm OD // I decided to use M7 washers so there's a bigger surface area touching the plate. It was better than just the regular M6 washers.
- Economy Tnutz 1/4-20"
- The supplied hardware isn't deep enough to support the box in the 1020 bars, but also the just provide you nuts, and they're too big to be used with the 1020 bars.
- I believe the plate is 1/8inch thick.

To attach Roof Saddle by Pelican x Frontrunner to 1020 bars.
Ahf4gDF.jpg


WaterPort with WaterPort's Roof Rack Mount
- SS 1/4-20" x 0.5 inch // For some reason, the ZINC PLATED ones are about 2x more expensive than SS.
- M7 Washers 7.4 mm ID, 14 mm OD // I decided to use M7 washers so there's a bigger surface area touching the plate. It was better than just the regular M6 washers
- There is no supplied hardware for this.

In order to mount the WaterPort bracket to the Roof Rack Bracket / Mount, you need to attach the two brackets.
- SS 1/4-20" x 3/4 inch
- Zinc 1/4-20" Nylon Lock Nut // Enough depth for the two plates and for the nylon to lock. I also used the M7 Washers before the bolt.

To attach WaterPort Bracket to 1020 bars with Economy TNutz .
0wJOgmv.jpg


To attach WaterPort to WaterPort Bracket.
EMUQ5uF.jpg


OVS 270 Awning Passenger Side
- 1/4"-20 Thread Size, 5/8" Long
- M7 Washers 7.4 mm ID, 14 mm OD
- Economy Tnutz 1/4-20"

To attach OVS 270 awning to 1020 bars.
McZ0htr.jpg
 
Last edited:
Skid Plate Project

I was able to pick up some secondhand SKIDROW SKID PLATES for the T-Case, Oil-Pan, & Tranny. I'll see if I can get a decent price on the front skid, and then be working on making a custom CAT skid plate this week. This is a really high priority.

I'm also considering a gas tank skid plate, but there is also a plastic skid plate on it from the factory.

UPDATES
03/30/21- Link to Update // tranny skid has issues.
04/08/21 - Link to Update // oil pan skid issues with OEM skid
 
Last edited:
Skid Plate Project

I was able to pick up some secondhand SKIDROW SKID PLATES for the T-Case, Oil-Pan, & Tranny. I'll see if I can get a decent price on the front skid, and then be working on making a custom CAT skid plate this week. This is a really high priority.

I'm also considering a gas tank skid plate, but there is also a plastic skid plate on it from the factory.
The gas tank IS plastic so.... If you plan on dragging it over rocks, may want to consider a metal one
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom