1HZ won't start - fuel issue? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 77cruiser77
- Start date
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That is the burning question. A click means zilch.
- Thread starter
- #23
Thanks for all the input guys,
I'll have to try a some of these ideas tomorrow after work. I was able to spend a mere 20 mins, most of which was spent helping a neighbour getting his car going, working on it this evening and this time tried cracking all the injector lines instead of just one at a time. Still nothing, though I wouldn't say I tried hard enough. Also talked to the shop and it can only be one of two things really: solenoid or air lock
As for testing the solenoid I had the key to the ON position and disconnected the wire and reconnected it and heard a click each time. Sounds like from you are all telling me a further investigation is required.
@roscoFJ73 Should I try removing all of the glow plugs again and run it for a half a minute? Will I cause any damage to the pump or anything else to crank it that long or should I go in five second intervals?
@Tapage I have not tried disconnecting the lines from the injector line yet. Would you suggest one at a time or all six at once? I can try this tomorrow evening.
I'll have to try a some of these ideas tomorrow after work. I was able to spend a mere 20 mins, most of which was spent helping a neighbour getting his car going, working on it this evening and this time tried cracking all the injector lines instead of just one at a time. Still nothing, though I wouldn't say I tried hard enough. Also talked to the shop and it can only be one of two things really: solenoid or air lock
As for testing the solenoid I had the key to the ON position and disconnected the wire and reconnected it and heard a click each time. Sounds like from you are all telling me a further investigation is required.
@roscoFJ73 Should I try removing all of the glow plugs again and run it for a half a minute? Will I cause any damage to the pump or anything else to crank it that long or should I go in five second intervals?
@Tapage I have not tried disconnecting the lines from the injector line yet. Would you suggest one at a time or all six at once? I can try this tomorrow evening.
serenity
SILVER Star
Sounds incredibly similar to an issue I had, had fuel and compression but no go. I had pulled the fuel adjustment screw to replace the o-ring and when I put it back in I hadn't wound it in far enough. It confused the hell out of me for a while, I ended up winding the fuel screw all the way in, primed again and it started right up. Then I wound the fuel back to an acceptable level. Might be something worth trying.
The manual says to listen for an "audible click" . I cant see how it would make a click if it wasn't working.
I guess you could take it out and see if it moves but I cant see how it would make a click if it wasn't working.
A few years back I started up a rebuilt 1HZ doing this. It took 20-30 seconds to pump it through to the injectors. But it would be wise to find out if the pump itself is full of fuel 1st. When pumps are rebuilt ,the rebuilder is supposed to dip the moving parts in diesel to give it some lubrication starting up.
- Thread starter
- #27
I just spent a bunch of money taking this IP to a shop to have them precisely tune for me. Messing with any of the adjustment screws will only undo their work and leaving me to get it tuned again.
I'm glad this worked for you but I'm thinking its airlock
Ok, you are correct.
- Thread starter
- #29
If I can get a litre of fuel to come out of the return line after priming then there should be fuel in there.
Tonight, or as soon as I get a chance here's what I will do:
Using this hand pump above I'll attach the inlet of the hand pump to the outlet of my fuel filter and the outlet of the hand pump to the inlet of the main fuel inlet on the IP. Disconnect return line and put on a hose running it to a clear jar of fuel. I'll pump until air bubbles disappear then reattach return line. During tests I leave the hand pump attached in fear I might let more air in somehow disconnecting the pump.
I did not follow this procedure last night when I cracked all of the injector lines before crank. I just cracked the lines, assumed there was fuel in the IP, and cranked. Nothing happened so I went inside and made dinner. So I'll try doing this again priming it first. As a reminder it was only last night I did not try priming before starting.
If that doesn't work I'll try disconnecting the lines at the IP after priming it again and see if fuel comes out.
If that doesn't work I suppose I'll reconnect the lines and disconnect the glow plugs and crank it for half a minute. I'll do so in 5-6 second intervals unless you suggest otherwise. If I did the above two procedures could this method be effective or would it be redundant?
If the above does not work I'll begin to entertain the thought of getting it towed to the diesel shop.
Before I'd do that I can investigate other things as well such as the centre bolt in the middle of the of the IP. In all honesty I'm a little nervous to muck with any adjustments on the pump and without looking at my manual I do not even know what that bolt does. Can backing off this bolt a bit mess anything up? I don't mind fuel shooting in my engine bay at this point but I'm not interesting in changing any fuel ratios or anything like that.
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Squash
SILVER Star
Fuel comes in on the left and either to the return line and/or injectors which are on the right.
Something is stopping the fuel and your choices are solenoid or Full Load screw.
I would add fuel bypassing the primer and straight into the IP, crack one of the four nuts on the right of picture feeding the injectors looking for fuel.
If no fuel pull the damn solenoid and check for fuel.
Last because you are hesitant, fiddle with the full load screw, just remember to keep notes 1/8 to 1/4 turns and check.
Something is stopping the fuel and your choices are solenoid or Full Load screw.
I would add fuel bypassing the primer and straight into the IP, crack one of the four nuts on the right of picture feeding the injectors looking for fuel.
If no fuel pull the damn solenoid and check for fuel.
Last because you are hesitant, fiddle with the full load screw, just remember to keep notes 1/8 to 1/4 turns and check.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
did you confirm Shop bench tested your IP prior to sent it back to you .?
I'm not positive what have to do the full load screw at this point .. ?
I'm not positive what have to do the full load screw at this point .. ?
Huge airlock i reckon, mine did the same, i pulled the glow plugs, hooked it to a good jump pack and cranked for ages, then bled the injectors one by one.
You still have the blown primer on your filter? That could be leaking air enough to be pumping fuel and air into your pump... Enough for fuel to trickle out. Fwiw when I disconnect my return I get more than a trickle. Also, I had to use an evacuator to push fuel through my pump when it was dry.. Without it no amount of cranking would clear the airlock.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
I recently fired up my 1hz after rebuild and having it sit for 6 months.
It took literally 5 minutes of cranking with glow plugs out to get fuel to the injectors (I had to recharge batteries to fire it up)
Undo the injector lines at the top of all 6 injectors so you aren't pushing against an airlock in each line.
As said, crank until you get a spray of fuel at the injectors. Refit injector lines and it should fire after a short crank. Maybe 20-30 seconds.
If the solenoid clicks, crank it some more
It took literally 5 minutes of cranking with glow plugs out to get fuel to the injectors (I had to recharge batteries to fire it up)
Undo the injector lines at the top of all 6 injectors so you aren't pushing against an airlock in each line.
As said, crank until you get a spray of fuel at the injectors. Refit injector lines and it should fire after a short crank. Maybe 20-30 seconds.
If the solenoid clicks, crank it some more
I guess the pump should work ok ,but gravity feeding it will work also. You can fiddle with the controls just make sure you mark them so they can be returned to the settings the shop gave you.
Have you contacted the shop and asked if they bench tested it after it was assembled?
You mentioned "disconnecting the glow plugs" I meant remove them altogether.
I think your problem may revolve around the busted primer letting air in and undoing your work.
Have you contacted the shop and asked if they bench tested it after it was assembled?
You mentioned "disconnecting the glow plugs" I meant remove them altogether.
I think your problem may revolve around the busted primer letting air in and undoing your work.
Seriously. Did you? I'm about to tackle the same thing today and wonder what worked for you?
