1HZ to 1HDT swap w/ fuel issues (1 Viewer)

[mxtaco48]

This is my Hail Mary post to get this figured out. I have A 1990 HZJ73 that I swapped The 1HZ with a 1HDT engine. Supposedly the BEB and injectors were done on the 1HDT.

The engine will turn over but not start. The engine will start with starter fluid but obviously dies right after. First thought was air in the fuel lines so I’ve spent 3 days working on that to the point that I dont Think that air in the fuel line is the issue.

When I loosen the injector nut and crank the engine, there’s no fuel.
When I loosen the bolt at the top of the injector (holds the nozzle leakage pipe) and hand pump the primer, fuel comes out of the top of the injector.

So now I’m at the point that I’m wondering why there is no fuel coming from the IP to the injectors but I’m stumped. Does anyone know anymore trouble shooting checks? Or does anyone know why an IP wouldn’t be sending fuel?

Thanks in advance.

 

[chapel gate]

Does the fuel cut off solenoid click when it has power?

 

[Gengis]

Check the solenoid and bypass if possible with a gravity fed fuel supply. Thes rotary pumps are not at all difficult to prime and in fact, if you have enough battery power you can install the post IP fuel system dry and use the cranking to prime. (Try that with a linear IP). There is also a " Lift Pump" built into the IP but this should be Ok if it has a fuel supply. Should only be a problem if the HD stood dry or open for a long time. Repair of this would need a pump overhaul anyway.
So the solenoid remains you prime suspect.

 

[AussieHJCruza]

Solenoid would be my first port of call - jump 12v to it from the battery and see what happens.

 

[roscoFJ73]

Solenoid first. You can connect it directly to the + terminal.

Ive seen and heard of a few that have loose wire on the top of the solenoid, usually tightening the nut fixes it.
I remember some guys in Western Australia were stuck in the middle of no where for 3 days and a loose wire was the problem.

 

[mxtaco48]

Yes, the solenoid does click

 

[mxtaco48]

It’s a 24v system. Can I jump 12v?

 

[mxtaco48]

Finally had a chance to do check that there was 24v getting to my solenoid (there is) and removed it and checked everything. Everything looks fine.

I may have to consider a bypass. I’ll use a 12v solenoid over the weekend just to test it

 

[Squash]

Hail Mary!
Try to remove the solenoid and check the mesh filter under the solenoid.
With the solenoid removed you can try to feed fresh fuel into the IP.
I'm thinking clear hose and a funnel.
Good luck

 

[wedgetail]

I agree about the cut solenoid. However have you checked the fine mesh gauge in the inlet banjo?

 

[roscoFJ73]

It’s a 24v system. Can I jump 12v?

I believe the 12v and 24v solenoid are the same unit., so yes. You only have to connect it long enough to hear an audible click to confirm it is working.If you can hear a click, that is the sound of it opening, so you can consider it ok.

Also, the hand pumps on these can wear out and they don't have enough pressure to push the fuel to the injectors.

 

[Squash]

Just re read your post this morning.
There seems to be some uncertainty about fuel..
Get a section of clear hose between the primer and the IP, the clear hose visually confirms whether you have fuel or if you're sucking air.
Once the fuel delivery is confirmed, do the solenoid and mesh, you should see fuel coming out if removed.

I'm curious
Are you running a 12v or 24 v starter? your solenoid is 12V, the only 24 volt system on the 1HDT is the starter
Are your glow plugs working...later

 

[mxtaco48]

I’m running a 24v starter. I swapped Alternator and starter from my
1HZ.

Went through a few more checks this morning. The solenoid appears to be fine and not the issue.

I’m going to do the clear line to ensure that air isn’t getting pumped into the IP.

I’ll have to check into the mesh that’s referred to in a couple posts up.

there are a few things it could possibly be still. There’s fuel getting to the IP but there’s a chance that there’s now enough pressure before the IP to really fuel the pump. Using an inline pump may be the next step

 

[mxtaco48]

What kind of pump would y’all recommend using to pump fuel into the IP

 

[Workhorse]

Walbro FRB 5 is what I run in my 80 with HDFT. Low PSI, something like 3-5 PSI, just a helper pump.

 

[Squash]

Ok
Once you get the clear hose you can also stick one end into a container of fuel and the other end directly to the IP. Now there is really nothing else to stop fuel getting to the injectors.
If you don't get fuel after this, pull the solenoid and screen, turn starter and look for fuel where solenoid was.

 

[Squash]

Btw.
The IP creates vaccum and sucks fuel. This is why/how air enters the system, and why it's very difficult/impossible to ever spot a leak.

 

[mxtaco48]

Btw.
The IP creates vaccum and sucks fuel. This is why/how air enters the system, and why it's very difficult/impossible to ever spot a leak.

is there any way the vacuum could be blocked or to check to make sure it’s sucking?

 

[roscoFJ73]

is there any way the vacuum could be blocked or to check to make sure it’s sucking?

You would put a small container of fuel in the engine bay at a height lower than the injection pump and see if the feed pump can lift it. Bypass the fuel filter to do this test.

Have you tested the hand primer? It should pull fuel from the tank in 30 pumps. And I would remove the supply line to the injection pump from the filter and visually sight the fuel being pumped out.

But seriously, you need huge amounts of air to enter the system to stop you from filling the pump.
Usually you get them full and it siphons back overnight.


Do you have the fuel supply and fuel return hoses crossed?

 

[arnott1t]

I still think it’s solenoid. Pull the plunger out and try it. Can stall the engine to stop it or put a board over intake to choke it out.