1hz Timing Belt Change (4 Viewers)

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Hi guys tring to do a timing belt on a 2001 105 series 1hz with the hydraulic tensioner i have lined up the tdb marks on both cam and pump is this correct and does the belt go clockwise as per picture or anti? I cant turn it to the right can can to the left does that mean yhe valves are hitting any help would be much appreciated thanks guys
 
Hi guys tring to do a timing belt on a 2001 105 series 1hz with the hydraulic tensioner i have lined up the tdb marks on both cam and pump is this correct and does the belt go clockwise as per picture or anti? I cant turn it to the right can can to the left does that mean yhe valves are hitting any help would be much appreciated thanks guys
 
If you have the timing marks lined up at top and bottom, put the timing belt around the bottom pulley, keep it tight on the right hand side (slack on the left), the belt should line up with a tooth on the cam pulley within 1/2 a tooth width or less.
you can tweak the cam position slightly to get the tooth to line up with the pulley.
Hold the belt tight on the right hand side, and pull the pin out of the tensioner AFTER you have the belt sitting right on the two pulleys
 
Hi mudgudgeon thanks for your help mate but also just wondering what way the belt goes as it has arrows on it does it go clockwise pr anticlock wise when putting it onto the cam
 
Does this process work on a 1HDT as well?
Anyone have PNs for 1HZ and 1HDT "required" items and "nice to have" items for replacement?
 
Matt,
nice write-up.
May I add a few lines?
I do not align the timing marks. This saves me having to turn the engine by hand and through the timing belt (puts enormeous strain on the belt).
I just mark the pulleys and the timing belt in one go in a convenient spot. This way the marking on the pulley and timingbelt are aligned. I do this on the camshaft pulley and the injectorpump-pulley.
Mind, I use a marker that 'sticks' very well.
Then after getting the belt off I transfer the position of the markers on the old belt to the new belt. (side by side)
Then put on the new belt that way that the markers line up with those on the pulleys.
This saves you turning the engine by hand and it shows clearly that the timing belt is exactly on the spot and not a tooth off.

Isn't it possible for the cam shaft to shift slightly in the opposite directly upon engine turning off, and any load upon the lobes, and end up with a little bit of slack on the "right" side of the timing belt?
If this happens, then isn't it a good idea to turn the engine clockwise via the crankshaft so that the "right" side of the belt is now taught?

I suppose at THAT point, these directions would work fine as Ron lays it out.
 
Hi guys all sorted now thankyou had a bloke come double check it for me he said that there was nothing wrong with how i did it it just had good compression and i was trying to turn it over from the wrong bolt 😂👌🏾 thanks for all your help she purrs like a kitten now😏
 
replacing injector pump and want to do timing belt at same time while in there ... besides the belt itself, what other ancillary parts are recommenced to be changed when doing T belt? I know the water pump is good but what about the tensioner ('93 = spring tensioner) or anything else?
 
It's best to buy a kit containing belt, tensioner, the idler bearing, cam seal. If it has 300000 klms, I would do the water pump as well. The cam seal is up to you. If it's not leaking I would leave it. Tensioners can be reused if they conform to the specs in the FSM. But they are cheap , so if it's in the kit, I would use the new one.
 
Because I flipped it for too little and within a few years the cost of a good 12HT engine was twice the price I sold the whole vehicle for and 8 times the price I paid for the lot.
It needed a fair bit of body work (not my forte). The gearbox was replaced free of charge by Toyota at 130000klms with the old owners and now at 310000klm it felt old. It seems it spent its life towing horse floats around and maybe the owners were not patient with slow shifting H55f gearboxes. Well cared for H55f are just getting nice to know at 200000klms.
I basically cleaned it out, replaced 2 tyres, fixed a badly leaking rear axle bearing and cut off the damaged bullbar.
Engine was spectacular.

I took it to a Dobinsons agent for a wheel alignment and they were amazed to find the suspension and steering was in v good shape. They said it was one of the few 60 series they could get to track straight on our cambered roads. A young mechanics assistant was looking for his first cruiser and his boss recommended him buying it and lent him the cash. The only hiccup was when the kid told his dad that night, his dad said you should have bargained harder and tried to talk me down $500 after the deal was done at handover time. His boss jumped in and told him that's not how you do business and it was already a good price and he handed over the full agreed price.
The kid I sold it to still had it 2 years later and was loving it.

It was the school holidays at that time, so my teen son and I drove to Uluru and Alice on Great Central Road (2400klms each way) on the extra I made from the sale on the 61 in my HZJ75 ute I had. I made him learn to drive on a slippery gravel road for 200klms with an exedy heavy duty clutch. He whinged all the time but now he brags about to his mates.

I guess what I really regretted was not keeping the 12HT and putting it into a landcruiser with a good body.
 
I just finished my timing belt on my 1HZ and used this technique for the tensioning spring.

It made the tensioning really easy.
 
That's a good video. Shows that everyone can learn something smart - I didn't remove/move the AC comp or belt tensioner last time I did the job on my 80's 1hz.
 

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