Build 1HZ-T HZJ78 All-Climate Expo Build

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That hole size was to suit the oem electrical rubber glands if your just running for mirror wire you can most likely just use a drill bit for a hole

Full height jdm door trim and q glass, but i changed to full glass
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Hey thanks Clint, much appreciated. From memory it's going to be a tight fit getting my drill in there but I'll give it a go when I get home end of the week.

Nice trim, did you order all that new or find a jap-import donor vehicle? Curious as to why you went from Q vent to full? After having both I prefer the Q vent type for that lovely outside air in the face on occasions. I also used to smoke and the Q vent was very handy for flicking ash :)
 
Hello Damieperu,
I just read your entire thread, and holy smokes! Do you ever have patience, and skills. I am jealous as i am no mechanic (i will rebuild the important bits on my old 61 in order to provide myself with a mechanical education). I hope you do not lose motivation, and aim for the best.
Gday 61mk+, thanks for the compliments. Patience I'll admit to having, but I'm not that skilled nor a good mechanic... patience gets you a long way without any experience. I still need my transfer, axles, fuel pump and steering to fail so I can learn about those in detail, I only have time to educate myself on a need to know basis!
 
Hey thanks Clint, much appreciated. From memory it's going to be a tight fit getting my drill in there but I'll give it a go when I get home end of the week.

Nice trim, did you order all that new or find a jap-import donor vehicle? Curious as to why you went from Q vent to full? After having both I prefer the Q vent type for that lovely outside air in the face on occasions. I also used to smoke and the Q vent was very handy for flicking ash :)

I got the trims from my mate Wong, very rare im led to believe, i havent seen any in Aus
i removed the q vents as the top of the full door trim black plastic inside seal thingy doesnt fit flush perfect as i would like also when my full glass is down the tint cant be measured ;)
 
I got the trims from my mate Wong, very rare im led to believe, i havent seen any in Aus
i removed the q vents as the top of the full door trim black plastic inside seal thingy doesnt fit flush perfect as i would like also when my full glass is down the tint cant be measured ;)
yeah now i get it... don't still have all your q vent parts do you? if so let me know if you want to part with them... i'd change back in a heartbeat if i had the parts! i'm back in oz in 6 weeks
 
yeah now i get it... don't still have all your q vent parts do you? if so let me know if you want to part with them... i'd change back in a heartbeat if i had the parts! i'm back in oz in 6 weeks

PM sent
 
one thing i forgot to post earlier was how the 1HZ-T - H151 - 78 diffs - 285/75/16 mix converts into driving. The biggest changes since transplanting the H151 are that 1st is much more useable in general driving and i no longer do standing starts in 2nd.

Interestingly, my speedo - out by 3% since adding the 285/75/16 - is now within 1% in all upper gears, i assume within the whole range but i haven't yet remembered to test the speed in first and second when on the road. so no more corrections in my milage calculations :clap:.

anyway, here's some numbers for comparison... i held these speeds for about 30 seconds to get an accurate GPS speed, used the tiny tach digital tacho for rpm.

1st - 25km/h - 3000 rpm
2nd - 25km/h - 1750 rpm
2nd - 45 km/h - 3000 rpm
3rd - 45 km/h - 1920 rpm
3rd - 72 km/h - 3000 rpm
4th - 70 km/h - 1990 rpm
4th - 100 km/h - 2850 rpm
5th - 100 km/h - 2500 rpm
5th - 120 km/h - 3050 rpm

I didn't take these measurements prior to changing from stock to compare, but they might be helpful for someone else with a 1hz 78/79 considering a H box swap.
 
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a bit of electrical discussion:

i'm planning on replacing my big AGM with lithium when the build is near completion, but that decision had some charging repercussions.

to date i had resisted those low amp (20-40amp) dc-dc chargers for the AGM that some people swear by on their mothers grave, as i still wanted to link the batteries for emergency starts (already had to do that in the bush and destroyed a 120amp isolator in the process), which is why a couple of years ago i got the 500amp blue sea ACR as my isolator in tandem with a 270amp alternator that outputs between 14.4 and 15V, a great voltage for charging the AGM.

but lithium has another charging profile altogether compared to AGM, which also varies by brand (due to the different internal battery management systems). so i bit the bullet and decided i really needed a dc-dc charger with a lithium profile if i was going to migrate to lithium and get the best out of them. so in preparation i just bought some hot off the design shelf 120 amp DC-DC chargers from Sterling that now have a lithium charging profile (as well as AGM and the rest), and the lithium profile voltages can also be customized with a remote interface that i got as well. i believe they are the only chargers in the world to date with a lithium profile of that amperage, and the customizing feature should mean they should serve me well for many years regardless of the batteries i use into the future.

the plan - which i think will work - will be to leave the 500 amp ACR in place but manually disengaged, and if i want to join the batteries for an emergency start i'll just manually engage that. on the other hand i've bought two 120 amp sterling units and plan to install them as a permanent split system straight from the alternator, one charging the cranker and one charging the auxiliaries. 120 amps to each battery bank is plenty, and at idle the alternator outputs 200 amps, so I can't envisage either battery being starved by the other. i still have to work out the details of how to ensure the crank battery will be charged by the sterling and essentially isolate the alternator output without creating havoc somewhere else, but i think it will be an interesting system.

the downside is that my winch will have to be wired directly to the alternator by necessity to take advantage of its output (and not damage the sterlings i think), but i think i can live with that.
 
Hi Damien, did you post some info about the h151f conversion in this thread? And do you have some pictures where the tiny tach sensor is being hooked up in the injector line?
 
Damienperu, in response to your wondering if you can change your window set-up, would it be feasible to just order replacement doors with the quarter windows?
 
Hi Damien, did you post some info about the h151f conversion in this thread? And do you have some pictures where the tiny tach sensor is being hooked up in the injector line?
Their was some info in the first few pages I think. I'm on holidays but can post stuff in a weeks time
 
Damienperu, in response to your wondering if you can change your window set-up, would it be feasible to just order replacement doors with the quarter windows?
Yeah I thought about all the options and concluded that I would be mad to go to all the trouble, being in Peru means I could buy another vehicle for the same price as buying, freighting and importing whole doors, so especially given what I have left to do this year, it seems futile. Mine has one of those little clips mentioned, so I ordered 2 more for each window and I will see if that makes any difference.
 
Oh....do tell!
It's going to be a big year i hope (been hoping that for the last few years), I'm just organizing our house move at the moment (just so i can have a better space to work on the troopy), so when i'm done with that i will have time to photo everything to go in. but in a nutshell most of the electrics will be completely redone with bussman minifuse systems, lockers to go in, new sensors, solar system, espar system, winchs, new shower setup, drawers, new seats, hard-mounted fridge/freezer, gull-wing windows, new compressor, reinstall AC and intercooler, OEM fender flares, led bars, and a swag of other bits and pieces... all currently stacked up in boxes waiting for their turn and for me to get time. but first i have to redo all the bar work to suit the new fenders, winches and lights, make my redesigned water/aux fuel tanks, make new roofrack/rollcage system, do final panel beating, full respray in brown. when that's done i'll be doing the final fitout of the interior, which has now all changed due to a rethink on which side the kitchen drawer and battery goes, essentially scrapping everything done to date inside, but i'll get to explaining that in due time.

i did get time recently to finish the mirrors, i'll post that below
 
so here's what's involved with 'trimming' the clearview towing mirrors so they don't stick out a country mile... do i recommend this: NO, but i am now happy with the result after spending a ridiculous amount of money on mirrors and still having to spend a good number of hours hacking them to make them functional... but if you did tow a wide van they would be a good investment i think. I only did this because (1.) my OEM mirrors flop around in the wind regardless of how much i torque them, and (2) i desperately wanted blindspot mirrors, but something better than the tiny stick-on types that reduce your normal vision.

so you need to cut 100mm off everything, you can't go more. you need to cut the external moulding with a lot of care to get relatively decent finish, i marked precisely with a razor blade and chalked

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if you don't leave this bit of internal arm plastic, they might vibrate: there is a plastic piece that is inserted in the end of the outer plastic arm (now cut off) that grabs this internal arm like a glove... i tried to file the inside of the new end to reinsert them, but it proved extremely time consuming, and in the end i just put about 20 wraps of electrical tape around and then fitted and proceeded to remove layer by layer until the perfect fit was had.
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new groove for cir clip

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the hardest part is not damaging the outer plastic arm and carefully filing the edges to match the moulding on the other side... it looked mangled if you don't go to this trouble, not what you want after just paying the asking price for these, which for me was double after freight and import taxes.

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the end result is pretty good. before trimming them, i was a bit put off initially by the difference in viewing experience, but i have now adjusted after about 16 hours driving time, and it is honestly miles better than before, especially given they are much closer inwards... before trimming they sat so far out that they actually needed a slightly inwards angle to see the edge of the vehicle, and as the main mirror is not convex, i was very disappointed with the vision, but trimmed and now inline with the vehicle body, the angle is now just slightly outwards and vision is much increased. then with the blindspot mirrors adjusted to grab just where the main mirrors end, the result is fantastic in that i now never have to look over my shoulder, like never, i can basically see in the blind sport mirror right up to my vision out the actual front windows. given i drive in crazy gridlocked Lima traffic, where 3 lanes is often turned into 5, this is huge for me.

but would i recommend you spend big bucks and then spend time to hack them up? NO, although i looked and didn't find anything else out there to bolt on that gives better vision and is sturdier than the OEM mirrors.

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much better for my purposes
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Edit: also forgot to mention, that if you have the powered mirror adjusters, you do need to completely dismantle the mirror supports in order to rethread the cable through the holes provided. you can't do all this without removing the cable from the supports, and it will not find its own way if you just shove it up the channel it came out of. when you take the support apart, you'll see its under pressure from a spring, making reassembly interesting. also you must sacrifice the rubber lugs to remove them to get access to the torqued nuts holding it together, you can't get them out without damaging and the easiest and cleanest way is to driil a hole in the middle and lever them out. that will make sense if you have them in front of you :)
 
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I'll have to keep these well away from the mud, they are IP68, but they have built in fans and heat sinks. not sure where the crank battery one will go exactly or what protection i'll give it, but i am thinking the one for the auxiliary battery will go right beside the battery inside the cab.

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I need some suggestions:

I want to put some HID spots into my (to be built) custom winch bar, and I mean inside the bar itself, so that means small diameter.

But I can't find any after quite a deal of searching. What am I missing? Surely one company must make a decent HID spot that isn't huge.

All suggestions welcome, but I am not willing to put anything in front of the grille, has to fit into the main bar of the bumper, ideally about 12cm diameter of the outer casing
 
Hi Damien
You certainly did a very nice work on the mirrors .
Sorry , but I don't understand why you had to do all that .
I have the same car , and am very happy with the stock mirrors
do you intend to pull a long trailer ?

bye Renago
 
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