Build 1HZ-T HZJ78 All-Climate Expo Build

[DamoPeru]

Dad would be proud.

i wish! he's more likely to say "don't waste your bloody money on.... ", and that's only if I tell him!.... i think he now regrets how many 4WDs he made capable and then proceeded to sell immediately. I think we had like 10 in 12 years or something like that... we still have a 37 year old engel in the family though! the 55 was the first and longest that stuck around i think

 

[ozcrusier]

I should have painted my cruiser this color maybe one day.

 

[Brenno]

Thought i might just throw this one out there...

What colour should I paint her?

I like white, but for being stealth in third world countries with drug traffickers, thieves and terrorists, I'm thinking white might be a bit United Nations/Government, my other favourite green might be too military looking. So I'm leaning towards the factory beige or the brown of my dad's 55 ... bear in mind I will be painting all the barwork, rims, rootop boxes and flares the same colour i decide on, and that this car will not have a single sticker.

Very happy to hear suggestions.

here's my old man's lovely rig, and if anyone knows that brown colour code let me know.

Wow I love these vintage photos. I would enjoy seeing more if you have any that you would like to show?

 

[DamoPeru]

Wow I love these vintage photos. I would enjoy seeing more if you have any that you would like to show?

This is the only other one i have scanned with any detail of the vehicle itself, actually an epic photo for me as its the day my landcruiser odyssey began: i'm pretty sure this is the actual day my dad brought home our first landcruiser.

 

[OGBeno]

The connections that Land Cruiser make both in terms of history as well as the development of one's own personal odyssey.

Such a poignant picture Damien.

 

[renago]

it seams that you have some problem in getting a good garage !
is it just your garage or is that the standard over there ?

ciao Renago

 

[DamoPeru]

it seams that you have some problem in getting a good garage !
is it just your garage or is that the standard over there ?

ciao Renago

I've used many workshops for engine and gearbox work and all have eventually disappointed me. These latest minor issues were at a Toyota dealership (my last alternative), but at least they recognize their mistakes and fix them, which is a first here for me.

 

[DamoPeru]

sorry, not much build update going on, only refitted my bumper and side steps, been too busy getting out there and getting some miles on her so i can dyno her and start doing the slight mods.

i may do something easy tomorrow like fit the new mirrors.

ps @wardharris , E-Locker's arrived... thanks!

 

[DamoPeru]

another question on something i can't decide on... would I or the gods be crazy for retro fitting the quarter windows to my full window doors? my first troopy had the quarter windows and i loved them in tropical north queensland, and my current full windows often derail and get stuck when trying to wind them up at 100km/hr (have to push the glass back out and hold while winding), and they flap around when at certain heights at that speed as well... only one side is held in place. not toyota's finest design hour.

but is it worth the expense (yet to be calculated) to source the glass, rubber and bits and pieces to convert mine? i'm assuming the door itself is the same.

 

[DamoPeru]

I also need to change the position of my engine saver sensor, it was going off all the time this weekend and driving me crazy... or the alternative is to workout how to get air bubbles of out the cooling system, which is the ultimate problem.

anyone got any ideas?

the radiator is full on every inspection, but at random moments (although usually when not under load), the heater hose (with the valve) gets air bubbles passing through it causing my no water sensor to scream like a baby, and its not always remedied by putting the heater control to hot (opening the valve). you'd never know without this sensor installed. it seems like after a while bubbles consolidate in the heater (highest part) and the water level eventually falls in that pipe to below the sensor... here's a picture i think i posted earlier of where it is installed, i could move it down an inch but i doubt that will make much difference. I might try moving it into the hose on the other side.

 

[OGBeno]

Why is the sensor even necessary? What does it actually do?

 

[elkaholic]

It warns him if he has a catastrophic coolant leak. As long as it is contacting coolant, all is OK. When it is not, the alarm goes off.

Not Toyota related, but I was delivering a big Class A diesel pusher about 8 years ago that developed a major coolant leak and without such a sensor, I would have melted down a CAT C9 diesel. The coolant temp never went up since there was no coolant contacting the temp probe. I got a warning light then the engine auto shut down 30 seconds later.

I am considering a sensor and alarm for my 74 since it does have a rear heater and it is conceivable it could develop a coolant leak under the body that would not be obvious ....

 

[DamoPeru]

Yeah I had a catastrophic coolant leak on this vehicle, as I described a few pages ago. Just as elkaholic, mentioned, no warning from the water temperature sensor whatsoever, just a huge F'ing bang in the middle of nowhere. After that experience this sensor is 'necessary' for me to reduce my paranoia and stress.

Usually you put them in the bottom radiator hose, but I opted for the heater hose size as I'll be running a lot of that to the rear of the vehicle in the future and I didn't want to wait until the entire system emptied to hear the alarm, but I may regret that if air in the upper section is impossible to eliminate.

 

[elkaholic]

The ones I have seen on heavy equipment have either been in the top radiator hose or in a fitting on the thermostat housing. They give a warning fairly quickly when the coolant level drops .....

 

[DamoPeru]

I got around to fitting my mirrors today, but couldn't do the electrics as I realized i'll need to remove the doors to drill the holes for the cables in the door/body.

Wanting a solution to my blindspots after blanking out the windows, and wanting to replace my factory mirrors that can't hold themselves in place, I had originally bought these 'clearview' towing mirrors for their larger size and second blindspot mirror, also thinking i would remove the extra 100mm that they stick out by, just as this fellow on LCOOL did.

But before taking to them with a hacksaw i wanted to at least use them as designed for a little while, but after a drive around the block I can definitely say I'll be cutting them down ASAP, just too wide for traffic in crazy Lima, or anywhere really.

However I'm a little disappointed about the complete lack of any convex on the main mirror. my vision out of the main mirror is now much narrower than before, and I'm yet to determine if i have actually improved or worsened my vision overall. Having them further from your eyes exacerbates the lack of convex issue, so hopefully cutting them down will make a little difference.

another thing i noticed was they don't seal well at the top despite being molded for the 70's door, there's nothing putting pressure on the rubber from behind in the middle. I imagine water may pool there as well. When i cut them down i might fill in the top with some expansive foam or something similar so the rubber has some pressure on it.

so the jury is still out as to whether this has been a waste of money or not... but they are certainly many more times more sturdy than the factory mirrors.

 

[Clint79]

nice work i seen those mirrors on a 75 series ute the other day and wondered where they were from.
while on the subject of wires through the door and q vent windows,
I installed all the oem toyota electric windows, locks etc in my 79 series and didnt have to take the door of for cable access, you can fit a drill and holesaw in the door when you remove the door card and also drill inside the cab kick panels to get out to the door make sure you remove all the swarf and have a vacuum going while drilling.
As for the q vent glass i removed mine and installed full glass and had the same issue at 110kph with wind pushing the glass out of the runner when they wound up especiallty annoying with auto up and not watching the glass., i noticed on the vdj 79 gxl with full glass they have little guides in the window runner so i bought two of them and clipped them in the channel wind problem solved.

 

[DamoPeru]

I installed all the oem toyota electric windows, locks etc in my 79 series and didnt have to take the door of for cable access,

do you have a photo of where you drilled? I might have been able to drill the inside of the door, but my rollcage is preventing me from doing that, and removing the doors is easier than removing that section of rollcage.

i noticed on the vdj 79 gxl with full glass they have little guides in the window runner so i bought two of them and clipped them in the channel wind problem solved.

cool, great info, do you have a part number? i think that fix would tip the scales enough for me to not go to the trouble of retro fitting the quarter glass.

Edit: do you mean those little ones i currently have on the front angled section?
62367C CLIP, DOOR WINDOW GLASS
62367-10010
I don't actually see what they do in their curent position, are you saying you located them on the opposing vertical side on the inside and that stops the glass getting pushed in?

 

[Clint79]

do you have a photo of where you drilled? I might have been able to drill the inside of the door, but my rollcage is preventing me from doing that, and removing the doors is easier than removing that section of rollcage.
i can get a pic no problems tomoz



cool, great info, do you have a part number? i think that fix would tip the scales enough for me to not go to the trouble of retro fitting the quarter glass.

Edit: do you mean those little ones i currently have on the front angled section?
62367C CLIP, DOOR WINDOW GLASS
62367-10010
I don't actually see what they do in their curent position, are you saying you located them on the opposing vertical side on the inside and that stops the glass getting pushed in?

Yes i presume so maybe you could lower them or put more in? im not to sure on the part no

 

[Clint79]

That hole size was to suit the oem electrical rubber glands if your just running for mirror wire you can most likely just use a drill bit for a hole

Full height jdm door trim and q glass, but i changed to full glass

 

[61Mk+]

Hello Damieperu,
I just read your entire thread, and holy smokes! Do you ever have patience, and skills. I am jealous as i am no mechanic (i will rebuild the important bits on my old 61 in order to provide myself with a mechanical education). I hope you do not lose motivation, and aim for the best.