Now I know your supposed to warm your diesel up as I do but here and there I will sit her warming up for only about 3 mins jump in start driving and when I sit at a steady rpm or even when I’m accelerating I feel the power go like my foot isn’t on the petal but it’s only for a split second then the power comes right back only happens when it’s cold I believe. It’s hard to tell what it is from I only just got the car 3 weeks ago and when I first got it dropped the oil and did the oil filter they didn’t have a fuel filter at the time so I left it for then had this problem thought might be the fuel filter never know so put a new one in didn’t do anything so not sure had my mate come drive it but ofc the problem didn’t happen when he was driving any help would be much appreciated it’s a 2001 hdj105 series
1hz power cut out for a split second (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter mcknugs
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I would do the fuel filter, although I dont thinks its the problem
It could be a pocket of air in the injection pump. Check the fuel lines going to the pump for loose fittings or cracked hose rubber.
It maybe one of those things where you have to wait for it to get worse, but I doubt its going to be a big problem.
Note the RPM and colour of any smoke.
It could be a pocket of air in the injection pump. Check the fuel lines going to the pump for loose fittings or cracked hose rubber.
It maybe one of those things where you have to wait for it to get worse, but I doubt its going to be a big problem.
Note the RPM and colour of any smoke.
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- #3
I have done the fuel filter but I will try those things you mentioned cheers
What does it idle at cold?
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- #5
I’m not sure around 1500rpm of the top of my head I think it also has a weird problem where when I start it cold it will take a couple turns but when it does start it will start shaking the car like it doesn’t want to start only happens for a couple seconds then it isles normally and I can hear what I think is the starter motor keep on engaging for a sec but other than that she runs mint! It does have a couple exhaust leaks due to a rusty muffler which has some holes not sure if that would cause it even thought it usually only happens when cold but maybe the problem doesn’t fully go away it’s just masked to the point where I can notice it but I think that’s a bit of a stretch
Sounds like air in the fuel lines. Try this. BEFORE you start the engine in the morning give the hand pump on the fuel filter a couple of pumps until it goes hard, no more. Then start it and see what happens.
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- #7
Let it warm up after started for a couple mins or just a min and start driving? When I did the fuel filter I primed it but did it a couple times more than when it goes hard
Just do your normal start after using the hand pump and see if the problem is gone.
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- #9
Problem didn’t go away unfortunately
In Perth, they will start almost instantaneously , even on cold mornings. The shaking you mentioned sounds like a lack of fuel . The shaking is caused by some cylinders getting a small charge of diesel and others getting nothing. The lack of an instant start in another indicator of a partly empty injection pump.
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- #11
I live in Perth not far from Joondalup that sounds pretty expensive well I guess I’m just gonna leave it until I get money guessing there isn’t a way to fix it unless I go into the motor? And why would it only happen when it’s cold?
Air getting into the fuel pump via leaking fuel lines is not expensive, just maybe some clamps and hose. Its more time consuming. Split hose ends, no matter how small, can let a lot of air in overnight.
I fixed/replaced all the fuel lines in my 75 series one connection at a time. Nothing for the first 3 connections, then bang, the hard starting was gone after I fixed a fuel return connection. I did it that way, because I was curious as to which one it was.
For a nearly 20 year old diesel landcruiser, replacing the clamps and hoses is on the horizon.
Do you have a pre filter, its usually close to the primary filter?
I fixed/replaced all the fuel lines in my 75 series one connection at a time. Nothing for the first 3 connections, then bang, the hard starting was gone after I fixed a fuel return connection. I did it that way, because I was curious as to which one it was.
For a nearly 20 year old diesel landcruiser, replacing the clamps and hoses is on the horizon.
Do you have a pre filter, its usually close to the primary filter?
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- #13
Unfortunately don’t have a second fuel filter will definitely be getting one later down the line am a 17 year old broke boi who some how managed to get a 10k car I just love cars have always had a passion for them so hopefully it is the fuel lines you are speaking of what lines should I replace could you send me a picture??
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- #14
I have had a look at my fuel lines and they look fine don’t seem to have any cracks or being brittle but the clips arnt very tight I can take them off with my fingers and slide them around the hose on some of them but I don’t think they would be letting any air in
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- #16
Do you think it’s worth swapping them out for some different style clamps? Like the ones you can do up with a socket
With your kind of problem , you can either take it to a diesel injection shop and get a $1000+ bill. Or you can go through the simple cheap things. I dont know of any gadgets that can detect leakage in diesel fuel systems, so in this case half or dozen 12mm hose clamps seems like good value.
You are not supposed to be able to slide them around. It means the clamp has lost tension or the hose has shrunk from age and clamping pressure.
The hose cracks form around the cut end of the hose. Near microscopic cracks can let in air. For $40 you could have all new fuel hose and clamps in the engine bay.
Its a common problem when they are that age.
Odin Autos in Balcatta sell all that stuff , you can buy exact amounts.
Realistically you either have a problem with air getting into the fuel lines, or your pump needs work, although not immediately.
I asked you before if you have a pre fuel filter?
You are not supposed to be able to slide them around. It means the clamp has lost tension or the hose has shrunk from age and clamping pressure.
The hose cracks form around the cut end of the hose. Near microscopic cracks can let in air. For $40 you could have all new fuel hose and clamps in the engine bay.
Its a common problem when they are that age.
Odin Autos in Balcatta sell all that stuff , you can buy exact amounts.
Realistically you either have a problem with air getting into the fuel lines, or your pump needs work, although not immediately.
I asked you before if you have a pre fuel filter?
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- #18
No I don’t have a fuel pre filter unfortunately but I will be getting one in the near future and will definitely go get some of those new fuel lines they Arnt vehicle specific are they?
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- #19
And is There anything I would need to do before I remove the fuel lines??
Take a pic or do one at a time. Fuel lines are measured in mm by the internal diameter. I think the 105 uses 12mm. The older model 7* series were 8mm. Take a sample with you.
All fuel hose is fuel hose, no separate hose for petrol and diesel ect. I like Goss brand hose
Have rags and a container to empty fuel into, sounds easier than it is.
Once back together, you have to bleed it . Draw fuel to the fuel filter with the hand pump. Crank it for 15- 20 seconds, then give it a hand pump until it goes hard and crank the engine. It will run rough , pump the hand pump will help it smooth out. Usually they stall and you need to try again.
Once they are running on 6 cyls they will bleed the last of the air out.
If you have replaced the filter, the starting procedure will be the same.
You can possibly add a prefilter to your existing bracket. I got a proper Toyota pre filter with double bracket and filter for $20 at a wrecker. But lots of aftermarket options out there
All fuel hose is fuel hose, no separate hose for petrol and diesel ect. I like Goss brand hose
Have rags and a container to empty fuel into, sounds easier than it is.
Once back together, you have to bleed it . Draw fuel to the fuel filter with the hand pump. Crank it for 15- 20 seconds, then give it a hand pump until it goes hard and crank the engine. It will run rough , pump the hand pump will help it smooth out. Usually they stall and you need to try again.
Once they are running on 6 cyls they will bleed the last of the air out.
If you have replaced the filter, the starting procedure will be the same.
You can possibly add a prefilter to your existing bracket. I got a proper Toyota pre filter with double bracket and filter for $20 at a wrecker. But lots of aftermarket options out there
