1hz power cut out for a split second (1 Viewer)

[mcknugs]

Take a pic or do one at a time. Fuel lines are measured in mm by the internal diameter. I think the 105 uses 12mm. The older model 7* series were 8mm. Take a sample with you.
All fuel hose is fuel hose, no separate hose for petrol and diesel ect. I like Goss brand hose
Have rags and a container to empty fuel into, sounds easier than it is.

Once back together, you have to bleed it . Draw fuel to the fuel filter with the hand pump. Crank it for 15- 20 seconds, then give it a hand pump until it goes hard and crank the engine. It will run rough , pump the hand pump will help it smooth out. Usually they stall and you need to try again.
Once they are running on 6 cyls they will bleed the last of the air out.

If you have replaced the filter, the starting procedure will be the same.

You can possibly add a prefilter to your existing bracket. I got a proper Toyota pre filter with double bracket and filter for $20 at a wrecker. But lots of aftermarket options out there

So I replaced the fuel lines and clamps and she ran so much better I could actually rev past 3300 rpm and just felt so much better was still a slight jump with the power like before maybe there was still a little bit of air in the lines cause it went away but now once I have parked up my engine is making A dripping noice when not turned on I’ve never noticed it before have no idea what it is

 

[mcknugs]

Take a pic or do one at a time. Fuel lines are measured in mm by the internal diameter. I think the 105 uses 12mm. The older model 7* series were 8mm. Take a sample with you.
All fuel hose is fuel hose, no separate hose for petrol and diesel ect. I like Goss brand hose
Have rags and a container to empty fuel into, sounds easier than it is.

Once back together, you have to bleed it . Draw fuel to the fuel filter with the hand pump. Crank it for 15- 20 seconds, then give it a hand pump until it goes hard and crank the engine. It will run rough , pump the hand pump will help it smooth out. Usually they stall and you need to try again.
Once they are running on 6 cyls they will bleed the last of the air out.

If you have replaced the filter, the starting procedure will be the same.

You can possibly add a prefilter to your existing bracket. I got a proper Toyota pre filter with double bracket and filter for $20 at a wrecker. But lots of aftermarket options out there

Runs 20 times better now thanks heaps man

 

[roscoFJ73]

A dripping noice when not turned on I’ve never noticed it before have no idea what it is

Is it coming from the engine bay, left or right side?
Im surprised new clamps and hoses made a big difference.

So I replaced the fuel lines and clamps and she ran so much better I could actually rev past 3300 rpm

They should go to about 4200rpm in neutral. They only have to reach those RPMs for half a second. This tells you it is getting enough fuel.

 

[mcknugs]

Is it coming from the engine bay, left or right side?
Im surprised new clamps and hoses made a big difference.



They should go to about 4200rpm in neutral. They only have to reach those RPMs for half a second. This tells you it is getting enough fuel.

I’m pretty sure it’s coming from the left side of the engine and there is also another sound that has been driving me insane lately you can’t hear it unless you put your head near your front left wheel sounds like an air leak but I could be very wrong I’ll go have a listen tomorrow and see if I can find anymore info