ATL Cruiser
GOLD Star
Documentation on adding a bit more power to my 1992 HZJ77.
This entire turbo install is based on multiple guides across the internet, namely the Safari guide, which is absolutely fantastic)
' Safari Diesel Intercooled Turbocharger System for the Toyota Land Cruiser 1HZ diesel engine - http://www.safarisnorkel.com/turbo/guides/sthzj70n/sthzj70n_guide.html
GTurbo Green Wheel
' Toyota Landcruiser HZ-G300 Vortex Conversion Kit (Green Wheel - 'Grunter') - GTurbo - https://gturbo.com.au/product/toyota-landcruiser-hz-g300-vortex-conversion-kit-green-wheel/
PDI front mount intercooler (air to air)
' Landcruiser HDJ79 Front Mount intercooler Kit HDJ78 / HDJ79 / HZJ75 / HZJ79 — Performance Diesel Intercoolers - https://www.performancedieselintercoolers.com.au/products/hdj78-hdj79-front-mount-intercooler-kit
Outback Exhaust 3" Stainless
' Outback Exhausts OE4662-S75-RES 3" Stainless Exhaust system (Landcruiser 75 Series UTE 6CYL 4.2L - https://www.4x4modsaustralia.com.au/Outback-Exhausts-OE4662-S75-RES-3-Stainless-Exhaust-system-Landcruiser-75-Series-UTE-6CYL-4.2L-HZJ75-Cab-Chassis-Aftermarket-Factory-Turbo
I started off by removing the old exhaust manifold. 2 tricks recommended for this:
I installed the new exhaust studs and a new exhaust manifold supplied with the GTurbo kit. However, the GTurbo kit does not include the stubby manifold end. Mine was rusted solid, so I ordered a new one off eBay (don't forget to get the two o-rings, two snap-rings, and inner collar as well). The snap-rings need to be lined up such that their ring opens are on opposite sites.
The turbo itself bolted in fine, and I was ready to punch the sump using this method. I heavily debated welding vs punching in a bung:
Welding a sump bung:
PROS: looks "professional" guaranteed not to leak
CONS: requires oil pan removal which almost guarantees bending the pan flange, welded bung can crack and leak
Punching a sump bung:
PROS: super easy, will not crack like a weld
CONS: does not look "professional" can leak if JB Weld is not applied correctly.
I found that most Australians are punching the bung, including this awesome guy, so I went punch method.
I ordered a punch from McMaster Carr, ground the point down sharp, and marked the 15mm point (the diameter needed for a 3/8-19 BSPF thread tap), and started hammering.
Punch: ' McMaster-Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/3420A13/
Tap: ' McMaster-Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/8328A23/
I tapped from above the frame rail facing downward. You can also tap from the bottom but it runs the risk of smashing into the engine internals.
After punching the hole to exactly 15mm, it leaves a lot of "meat" to tap into. This is why I really like this method vs. drilling which removes all that "meat." I tapped it and then ground crosshatch surrounding it to give the JB Weld something to bite into:
I covered the entire area with JB Weld (not the JB Quik kind, the original one), including the threads and let it set overnight. I was very happy with how it turned out. After running several hundred miles, zero oil drips so far.
I also installed a turbo bracket (17293-17020) while down there following the Safari guide instructions on tapping locations and hole depth, so as not to punch through into the sump. I used a normal tap + a bottoming tap to cut the final threads. Not sure how much this helps, but it was easy.
After running the oil feed line (from the oil pressure sensor), I then cranked the engine up to make sure oil was getting through the turbo. It filled up my janky catch can quickly, and I knew the turbo was getting good oil pressure from the feed line.
Note: I did not pre-prime the turbo. The GTurbo instructions state that the turbo comes pre-oiled, and no priming is required.
Upon wrapping up the turbo install, the easy part was over. The PDI Intercooler was where the real fun began...........
This entire turbo install is based on multiple guides across the internet, namely the Safari guide, which is absolutely fantastic)
' Safari Diesel Intercooled Turbocharger System for the Toyota Land Cruiser 1HZ diesel engine - http://www.safarisnorkel.com/turbo/guides/sthzj70n/sthzj70n_guide.html
GTurbo Green Wheel
' Toyota Landcruiser HZ-G300 Vortex Conversion Kit (Green Wheel - 'Grunter') - GTurbo - https://gturbo.com.au/product/toyota-landcruiser-hz-g300-vortex-conversion-kit-green-wheel/
PDI front mount intercooler (air to air)
' Landcruiser HDJ79 Front Mount intercooler Kit HDJ78 / HDJ79 / HZJ75 / HZJ79 — Performance Diesel Intercoolers - https://www.performancedieselintercoolers.com.au/products/hdj78-hdj79-front-mount-intercooler-kit
Outback Exhaust 3" Stainless
' Outback Exhausts OE4662-S75-RES 3" Stainless Exhaust system (Landcruiser 75 Series UTE 6CYL 4.2L - https://www.4x4modsaustralia.com.au/Outback-Exhausts-OE4662-S75-RES-3-Stainless-Exhaust-system-Landcruiser-75-Series-UTE-6CYL-4.2L-HZJ75-Cab-Chassis-Aftermarket-Factory-Turbo
I started off by removing the old exhaust manifold. 2 tricks recommended for this:
- heat each exhaust stud with MAP gas and spray with penetrant the evening prior. As the stud cools, it will suck the penetrant into the threads.
- heat again the next day right before cracking loose
- after cracking the stud loose, tighten it back down before cracking the next stud loose
I installed the new exhaust studs and a new exhaust manifold supplied with the GTurbo kit. However, the GTurbo kit does not include the stubby manifold end. Mine was rusted solid, so I ordered a new one off eBay (don't forget to get the two o-rings, two snap-rings, and inner collar as well). The snap-rings need to be lined up such that their ring opens are on opposite sites.
The turbo itself bolted in fine, and I was ready to punch the sump using this method. I heavily debated welding vs punching in a bung:
Welding a sump bung:
PROS: looks "professional" guaranteed not to leak
CONS: requires oil pan removal which almost guarantees bending the pan flange, welded bung can crack and leak
Punching a sump bung:
PROS: super easy, will not crack like a weld
CONS: does not look "professional" can leak if JB Weld is not applied correctly.
I found that most Australians are punching the bung, including this awesome guy, so I went punch method.
I ordered a punch from McMaster Carr, ground the point down sharp, and marked the 15mm point (the diameter needed for a 3/8-19 BSPF thread tap), and started hammering.
Punch: ' McMaster-Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/3420A13/
Tap: ' McMaster-Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/8328A23/
I tapped from above the frame rail facing downward. You can also tap from the bottom but it runs the risk of smashing into the engine internals.
After punching the hole to exactly 15mm, it leaves a lot of "meat" to tap into. This is why I really like this method vs. drilling which removes all that "meat." I tapped it and then ground crosshatch surrounding it to give the JB Weld something to bite into:
I covered the entire area with JB Weld (not the JB Quik kind, the original one), including the threads and let it set overnight. I was very happy with how it turned out. After running several hundred miles, zero oil drips so far.
I also installed a turbo bracket (17293-17020) while down there following the Safari guide instructions on tapping locations and hole depth, so as not to punch through into the sump. I used a normal tap + a bottoming tap to cut the final threads. Not sure how much this helps, but it was easy.
After running the oil feed line (from the oil pressure sensor), I then cranked the engine up to make sure oil was getting through the turbo. It filled up my janky catch can quickly, and I knew the turbo was getting good oil pressure from the feed line.
Note: I did not pre-prime the turbo. The GTurbo instructions state that the turbo comes pre-oiled, and no priming is required.
Upon wrapping up the turbo install, the easy part was over. The PDI Intercooler was where the real fun began...........
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