1hdt No Start problem (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Oct 13, 2010
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7
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Location
Kitimat B.C.
I went for a small drive up a power line road. Everything going fine. I park and walked around for a bit. And now she won't start! batteries are fine, i hear relays closing and opening when i turn the key but no crank.
I've hiked down now and left the cruiser up there. Thought id post and see if i might get lucky with a quick fix. I think something rattled loose, I didnt have alot of time to mess around up there.
 
1. you have enough diesel ? ( sorry need to ask )

2. it turns ( starter ) and no engine idle .?

3. check for fuel at the fuel filter outlet ( to the IP ) when priming

4. check for 12V at the cutout solenoid at the IP
 
Yeah thats what we suspected too. I got it rolled down the hillside, now i'm waiting to get it towed this afternoon. Too bad my dad thought about shorting the solenoid too, it melted a chunk of his pocket knife.
 
Yeah thats what we suspected too. I got it rolled down the hillside, now i'm waiting to get it towed this afternoon. Too bad my dad thought about shorting the solenoid too, it melted a chunk of his pocket knife.

kinda sounds like you did it.
I melted the ground going to my starter completely off if I remember correctly when it went. I had to replace that too.
John from Radd Cruisers sorted me out. If he can't Sheldon or Greg at G&S are also your boys.

Hopefully we can get that sorted out. Telkwa pass in a few week?
 
Got the cruiser home this afternoon, and found an old meter. It looks like I've got a dead solenoid. I'll make some calls on Monday.

If it all goes good I'm definitely game for the pass.

thanks for the tips
 
First failure on the 1hdt is the starter solenoid, the contacts melt and cannot carry the current needed to crank the motor. Next up (depending if you have the 24 volt starter) is the parallel/series solenoid, again these fail pretty much without warning. And of course if you have the 24v system one battery could be dead and this will pull down the other and prevent cranking. Finally bad earths.

If it is the starter contacts fix it yourself for about $20.00 ish?


regards

Dave
 
Next up (depending if you have the 24 volt starter) is the parallel/series solenoid, again these fail pretty much without warning. And of course if you have the 24v system one battery could be dead and this will pull down the other and prevent cranking. Finally bad earths.

If it is the starter contacts fix it yourself for about $20.00 ish?

regards

Dave

On reading through this thread I guessed you would post! ;p

I'd be pretty surprised if it is the parallel/series solenoid. I remember speaking to the the parts guy at my local Toyota dealer and he confirmed that there was no record of them ever selling this part. My money's on the starter contacts or even the starter itself.

Purely for information purposes. The 24v starter will turn the engine over fast enough at normal temperatures to start it even when supplied with only 12 volts.

Jamie
 
I agree it is unlikely it is the 12/24 solenoid indeed I have only replaced one. As you may be aware I took out the 24v system and fitted a simpler 12v starter? I do think I would be putting in new starter contacts first in this instance.

regards

Dave
 
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I agree it is unlikely it is the 12/24 solenoid indeed I have obly replaced one. As you may be aware I took out the 24v system and fitted a simpler 12v starter? I do think I would be putting in new starter contacts first in this instance.

regards

Dave

Haha, yeah I'm sure I discuss it with you every time this topic comes up! :)

Jamie
 
Thank you for the advice. I had continuity on step d) of the first stage of testing in the linked post. So Im ordering a new voltage converter relay in the next day or two.
 
Oh man this was the real problem

So this looks like the magnetic switch blew out all over the road! what the hell!
P1050985.webp
 
this gets worse

I don't know how bad this could be but the gears are chewed on the starter and on SOME of the teeth on the large gear inside the motor. Also when looking inside the motor I was surprised it was dry and grease free, and has light surface rust. Is that normal?
P1050987.webp
 
Hmmm, something very wrong there. It appears the starter has not been throwing correctly into mesh, I assume the starter was bolted in tight/straight? Now, this issue of starter contacts although being a common problem and easy to repair I have seen the WRONG contact kit fitted. The contacts are connected when the solenoid pulls a plunger which acts as a 'bridge to short the contacts, now, as this is happening the plunger also has a rod attached, this rod pushes the starter gear into mesh, if the 'throw' is correct the starter gear will be in full contact with the flywheel (big wheel with teeth inside housing) at the same time as the plunger shorts the contacts and spins the starter motor. There are a variety of kits with different style/type of contacts and perhaps more importantly different length rods that move the starter gear. It is possible you have the wrong plunger/kit which could result in the starter gear just starting to turn as the contacts connected, this would result in more wear ect and could cause a problem such as yours. Of course the bearings ect shold be checked for play but whatever you choose, if you decide to rebuild that particular started first check that the starter is the right one for your car unlikely not to be but worth checking and then buy any parts based on the starter number and NOT on your chassis number. The reason for that is there are many 12 and 24 volt variations of these starters which will bolt right in but will not be operating at their optimum, BTW, how many teeth on that starter gear I ask only because I cannot see all of them? If you are talking about inside the bellhousing on the engine then clean and grease free is fine, the bearings on the starter are sealed units and if leaking/noisey then replace them.

regards

Dave
 
I am having a little no start issue myself and it seems like there are a couple of knowledgable guys posting on here, 1990 HDJ-81 and pretty similar issue except I get ~24V at the starter from the 12/24v solenoid with the ignition in the "start" position but no power coming from the starter relay. When I jump 12v power to the starter solenoid with the ignition in the "start" position the engine fires right up and runs/drives fine.

Thinking I need to check the fusible link to the starter relay and the starter relay itself but have no idea where they are located, anyone want to help out the dumb guy?
1hd_1hz_1pz-t_engine starter.webp
 
Is this the one?
Yes, that's it.

The fusible links are at the battery connections. I think there's one at the little junction box near the 24/12 solenoid.

Check your park neutral switch.

~John
 
Yes, that's it.

The fusible links are at the battery connections. I think there's one at the little junction box near the 24/12 solenoid.

Check your park neutral switch.

~John

If my park/neutral switch was the issue my thinking was that the 12/24 voltage converter would not be getting a signal either but I can hear/feel it move and get 24v at the starter when the ignition is in the "start" position?
 
How is your starting issue jasnmt?
Just got everything together and running on mine. I got my parts from G&S cruisers parts in Chiliwack B.C., quick service, good prices.
 

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