1hdt manual boost controller install (13 Viewers)

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After doing a fuel pin mod on my fuel pump, i realized i would need to get my AFRs back in line, so I thought I should touch up my boost a bit.

First I installed a boost gauge. I discovered that I was pushing 12lbs at max, usually achieving this around 2200rpm.

So I looked for a manual boost controller on ebay and got this basic kit for about $14 USD.
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Now, some of you may know that the wastegate actuator on the CT26 turbo is pretty buried. But it is possible to to reach it if you remove your intake pipes from the filter to the turbo.
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This makes it possible, but I didn't say easy.

Just getting the near end of the WG actuator hose off the hose barb was enough of a trail for someone with skidder hands.

I skipped ahead to step six.
 
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First attempt was to put the boost controller tee onto the existing WG actuator and then a short piece on the other side to connect to the turbine housing. This proved to be to long, but not long enough.

So decided to remove the whole actuator hose.
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Maybe two small lengths of hose on either side of the Tee to make up just the same length as the stock hose would fit....
I grabbed some left over hose I acquired last days off to install the boost gauge...
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no god damn way...
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So I just did this, and made a loop that puts the Tee within easier reach.

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Next is best to connect the yellow hose to the Tee. The yellow hose and the actuator hose have enough play to snake through the other lines that are there and be moved out of the way when reinstalling the intake down pipes to the turbo.
 
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I just zipped tied the actual controller to a small bracket on the air filter box.

And as recommended by Youtube dialed it down all the way. And went for a drive.

I can't upload the videos yet.
I got 13lbs but was also erratic and it would spike up further than that if I really pushed it hard.
I thought maybe it just needed a round or so to settle itself in.
I dialed it up to see what would happen, maybe three notches up. Then back on the road I saw it come up to 17-18. :eek: It was much steadier thou.
I dialed it all the way and tried up one notch.
This time it would climb up to 15-16 which causes the over boost light to come on.
Now I know the light works at least
:worms:
 
I watched an installation video off Youtube that approxamated this kit.
The only difference was that video's poster changed his Tee to screw directly into his turbo housing and the controller. So it was Turbo and Controller on either side of the arrow and the hose down to the waste on the third perpendicular barb.

So I have the Turbo on one side of the Tee's arrow and the wastegate on the other, with the controller off that third perpendicular barb.

Would this difference actually negate the whole boost controller/wastegate allowing the higher boost when totally dialed down?
Is this just such a cheap controller as to be not precise enough to close in on that 14lbs boost, or as to be just garbage?
 
I never try this particular pretty cheap model .. but after some reading here and there I opt for a blocker instead a bleeder ( like the one you have )

I got a Hallman

http://www.hallmanboostcontroller.com/
 
The problem you run into with any of these boost controller is the waste gate spring is the weak link, not the amount of boost.

You may get a little gain, but exhaust pressure in the turbo overcomes the waste spring and allows the waste gate to open, regardless of what the boost controller does.

Pre-loading the waste gate actuator - adding a spacer between the WG housing and it's mount, will help raise the WG spring tension to a point, and help. The right way is to change the waste gate to one with a higher tension spring.

I have one the Hallman BC's on my diesel, and it helped a little, but very little. Pre-load helped a lot, and a new WG raised the boost by 7 psi.
 
Copy that, thanks Doug. I'm not looking to push huge amounts of boost, but I do want a reliable steady amount.

Do you have any sources for spring spacers or higher rated waste gates? I'll ask Karter what's on the shake when I get his turbo as well.
 
when I installed a bleed valve boost controller on my 1hd-t, it didn't have that Tee. Hose went from turbo, to bleed valve, then bleed valve to wastegate actuator, no Tee.

not sure it makes any difference to function

i did find that my bleed valve would get clogged up with oily muck and needed cleaning from time to time
 
Yeah I bought a $5 paint spray brass bleed valve and it worked great... Nothing fancy....
 
Yeah I bought a $5 paint spray brass bleed valve and it worked great... Nothing fancy....
Pics of this valve? I'm having the exact same issues as op using the exact same MBC. One thing that confuses me is that the tee included with the kit has the ball bearing facing the actuator. I'm going to reinstall and see if flipping the tee makes a difference.
 
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Pics of this valve? I'm having the exact same issues as op using the exact same MBC. One thing that confuses me is that the tee included with the kit has the ball bearing facing the actuator. I'm going to reinstall and see if flipping the tee makes a difference.

Sorry I got it at an auto parts place (napa) cheapest brass paint sprayer valve with an adjustment wheel and a hose barb with a tee into the boost line- no photo I can get right now.
 
I'm still struggling with this piece of junk. Most recently I was just driving through a mountain pass and lost all boost pressure. EGT were higher but managable. The rig was missing all that frieght train pull and I was rolling a lot of coal if I put my foot on it. I was in the middle of the pass and it was driveable so I limped along, and eventually it sorted itself out and was completely back to normal, thankfully before I had to climb Roger's pass.

It did it again today driving from Banff to Calgary. Just a little hill. My over boost light cam on and then boost topped out at about 4psi. It climbed back to pre-problem levels bit by bit. After another short break, it was back to normal. I plan to pull the whole garbage out once I get into my buddy's garage.
 
I have the same garbage boost controller on my truck and can't seem to get it to boost where I want. All the way down = stock boost, one notch up = stock boost, two notches up = stock boost, three notches up = 22psi :mad: way more than I want. I have a Turbosmart boost controller I need to get rigged up and then hopefully I can dial it in properly.
 
I'm sorta in the same boat.... I bought a couple of these and orginally plumbed them wrong. After looking at this thread I've plumbed them the same way as outlined above.. I a huge increase in boost versus the 7 lbs I want. without it I was running 18 and now I'm touching 30. Engine is much leaner but too lean in my opinion. I think the tee/check valve is to restrictive. I may try finding a small needle valve to change it with combined with a plain tee fitting. This way you can control the boost signal strength to the wastegate as well as the boost leakage on the wastegate side. I'd expect by allowing more flow through the needle valve than the tee allows our boost will come down for the same setting on the dial adjuster.

Hard to exaplain... but I think it adds up...
 
Do you have to remove the turbo to install this? Do the various springs they sell set the lower limit of adjustability, or how does that work?

Yes turbo needs to be removed, the only reason why I went this route was I needed to remove the turbo anyway to swap in the supra upgrade and on the advise of a few friends eho have used this before. If you put a 22 pound spring in there it will be 22 pounds, or if you put a 15 pound spring that's what you will get. I preloaded the actuator by fighting up the adjustment but under hard acceleration she stops at 15 psi right on the money.
 

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