1HDT Injector seat damage (1 Viewer)

[aussiefzj80]

Hi legends,

Regards from Stage 4 lockdown in Melbourne.

I pulled the injectors from a 1HDT last week and used the well documented reverse clamp method to extract the injectors. For all but one the copper washer was attached and came out along with the injector. However, the washer on #5 was stubborn as anything and did not budge.

After 3 days of letting it soak in CRC and gently trying to pull it out with a thread tap it was still not enough to get a pick under the washer. As a last resort some screw driver and chisel work got the copper washer came out. Unfortunately this was not my best work and with some frustration this process has damaged the injector seat.

I am aware that the copper washer must be 0.136" thick and the depth of the injector nozzle once seated is critical to the smooth running of the 1HDT. My question is what is considered 1) the best, 2) most cost effective and 3) least intrusive way to clean/ream this injector seat to ensure the copper washer or a combination continues to make the seal around the injector.

The reconditioned injectors are due to arrive in a few days. The POA was to install the reconditioned injectors with new washers and monitor it closely for any leaks. However this will probably not sit right with me in the long run and addressing the damaged seat is something i would prefer to do anyway before it leaves me stranded or has compounding adverse effects to the reliability or functionality of the injector/motor.

Happy to take all feedback and criticism on board, so that others who may run into similar dramas in the future may find this thread useful.

Cheers

 

[mudgudgeon]

Ouch !!
Next time, stop and go and have a beer to relax and slow down!

You could possibly use a modified plumbers tap valve reseating tool to cut a flat surface on it again

Sydney Tools

sydneytools.com.au

You could grind down the diameter of the cutting head so it fits in the hole. And figure out some way to clamp the tool in.
They work best when secured in place so you can give it consistent down pressure while you rotate the cutter.

I wouldn't try to reface the entire surface, just try to remove the raised burrs, and get a flat ring that is flat enough for the copper washer to seal against all the way around.

You should avoid cutting the whole thing deeper or you'll forever have a question mark over injector depth and copper washer thickness

 

[mudgudgeon]

Actually, I think a similar tool is available to use with a cordless drill.
A drill would allow you to give it good downward pressure, and consistent rotation at a very slow, controlled speed.
You would just need to be patient and take it easy (lol), and don't remove any more material than you need to

 

[aussiefzj80]

Appreciate the input mate.

The plumbers tap valve reseating tool looks to be similar to a injector seat reaming tool which comes in a kit with varying cutter sizes (flat & angled). The latter is likely to have one cutter attachment that will fit and match the injector cavity and dimensions of the injector seat without any modification.

Is there a reason to use a tap value tool instead of an injector seating tool? Will one take off more material than the other?

I imagine the greater the downward pressure the more material will be cut off the surface.. So.. i would go light pressure to take off the most minimal amount to make a flat surface.

This are the diesel injector reaming kits: Sydney Tools: Sydney Tools

Cheers

 

[mudgudgeon]

There you go! I'd go for the injector seat reamer for that price.
You want a fair amount of downward pressure so the reamer doesn't chatter and leave ridges in the surface.
Trick is going to be cutting back the high spots without taking more material off than you need to

 

[sodafeld1]

Appreciate the input mate.

The plumbers tap valve reseating tool looks to be similar to a injector seat reaming tool which comes in a kit with varying cutter sizes (flat & angled). The latter is likely to have one cutter attachment that will fit and match the injector cavity and dimensions of the injector seat without any modification.

Is there a reason to use a tap value tool instead of an injector seating tool? Will one take off more material than the other?

I imagine the greater the downward pressure the more material will be cut off the surface.. So.. i would go light pressure to take off the most minimal amount to make a flat surface.

This are the diesel injector reaming kits: Sydney Tools: Sydney Tools

Cheers

So how did you go? Does your injector leak?

For me, 2h engine . One of my injector ports on the head is chipped at the higher lip where the fat bronze washer sits. I stupidly did it myself thinking the perfect carbon imprint of the washer was a washer so got a tap threader in there. I created a little chip off the edge of the higher lip. At the very least I have to turn the motor to close that piston and air blast and vacuum best as possible in case there is any chips in the cylinder. Stupid me, should have got better lighting.

The damage you have is right at the bottom of the injector, mine is on the next shoulder.

Funny. epc calls the area of your damage on injector parts ' gasket, nozzle seat', and the higher shoulder which the fat washer sits as 'seat, injection nozzle '.

Whilst I consider your damage worse than mine (no ofence meant, and you didn't do it!) , I wonder if I shall have a leaking injector now which would be my fault totally.

 

[blinkerfluid]

I have used an aluminum washer on the seat and a copper washer on top of it, keeping the total thickness same as original, with great success. No need to ream or drill there. Its too tight and any debris that might fall into the chamber will not be good.

 

[sodafeld1]

Thanks man, melbourne to lahore?!

 

[blinkerfluid]

Nope, been in Lahore since forever

Thanks man, melbourne to lahore?