1HDFT & 1HDFTE observations-discussion (3 Viewers)

[SNLC]

All the used FT/FTE’s I have worked on have crusty blocks.

This is after hot tank.

Cleaned, rust removed and prepped for paint.

Painted.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

After a bunch of prep and double checking the crank bearings (plasti-gauge) we dropped the crank in.

My original notes on specs for this FTE.

New hardware, mid torque sequence.

Crank in.

80-series pan.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

What markets got the hdj79 past 2006?

From what I know, none. Also from what I know, only Australia got HDJ78/79's. No intake shutters, no EGR, different turbo, different sump pan and few other things.

Up to now all the FTE's I have built I have used the majority of HDJ79 OEM parts vs HDJ100/101. Even though the engines are from HDJ100's. We have even deleted all the intake shutter and EGR junk on one German FTE using Aussie spec HDJ79 parts. There are differences between a Euro FTE vs a stripped down Aussie HDJ79 FTE. Such as intake manifold and injection pump hard lines. HDJ79's also seem to spin the timing case normal direction, same as a 1HDT/FT or even a 1PZ/1HZ. But we have had several HDJ100 FTE's that all the timing case gears are cut the opposite direction, including p/s pump and vac pump. In fact we swapped one out for HDJ79, all gears and related parts in the timing case. This because we were building it from scratch and only the normal non-HDJ100 FTE vac pump is still available new. This is also the same vac pump still used on current production 1HZ's, hence it still being available vs the specific HDJ100/101 style with reverse cut gears. Again, all this is just from my experience.

What I don't know is if there is a difference in injectors or pistons with say a Euro spec HDJ100 vs an Aussie spec HDJ79? I am talking pistons dome & injectors spray pattern. Doesn't really matter at this point just curious.

All the FTE's we have built so far are stripped down versions, IE we delete the soft shut down, cross over piping, intake heater screen, factory turbo, EGR delete and so forth. There is not a lot to them once stripped down, bit more than an 1HDT/FT but nothing crazy.

Cheers

 

[Indestructible 47]

From what I know, none. Also from what I know, only Australia got HDJ78/79's. No intake shutters, no EGR, different turbo, different sump pan and few other things.

Cheers

All Aussie spec 1hd-ftes had EGR.

 

[mudgudgeon]

we have had several HDJ100 FTE's that all the timing case gears are cut the opposite direction

Confused by what you are saying here?

Are you saying the helical gears are cut angles the other way?

The way i see it, if the gear arrangement is the same, the final rotation will still be the same regardless of the angle the helix is cut on unless there's another Idler gear in there to reverse the rotation??

Rotation in blue. Has nothing to do with helix angle.

 

[Vitek]

From what I recall, they changed the direction of these gears somewhere in early 2000-2001? At least for models destined for the EU market.
Before that they are same as the FT afterwards the cuts are the opposite direction as Ian wrote

 

[SNLC]

All Aussie spec 1hd-ftes had EGR.

Well, pretty sure the non-EGR exhaust manifolds we have gotten are HDJ79.

Cheers

 

[Indestructible 47]

Well, pretty sure the non-EGR exhaust manifolds we have gotten are HDJ79.

Cheers

Interesting - I used to own a HDJ79, think it was a 02/2001 build and that definitely had EGR.

 

[SNLC]

Interesting - I used to own a HDJ79, think it was a 02/2001 build and that definitely had EGR.

I am not 100% on that but we deleted all of it on Tony’s Troopy FTE (German spec with cooled EGR and intake shutter) and I believe he bought HDJ79 parts. Same with Johns HDJ79, we used mostly HDJ79 parts to build it. There is also an EGR-less exhaust manifold heat shield that comes from the same model.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

From what I recall, they changed the direction of these gears somewhere in early 2000-2001? At least for models destined for the EU market.
Before that they are same as the FT afterwards the cuts are the opposite direction as Ian wrote

That’s it. I think it is post 8/2002 when the changed happened and it didn’t happen on HDJ79’s. FTE I am assembling now is an 01 or 02 and doesn’t have the reverse cut gears or special vac pump. We tried to swap gears on the vac pump still available and it was a no-go. IIRC power steering pump could be swapped.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Spent yesterday cleaning some parts, organizing, parts ordered and installed the oil cooler plus water outlet.

Gapping rings today and dropping in pistons.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Oh ya, I already tapped a bunch of holes when cleaning it up. Made sure the head bolt/stud holes in particular are nice and clean.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

My machinist did a good job, I didn’t have to gap any of the rings.

Conrods and pistons all installed, short block done.

Rear main seal

Now I need to clean the head up and paint it before installing.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Got the head cleaned up and painted today.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Pulled some tape before I left the shop. Letting the paint cure over the weekend.

Cheers

 

[ikarus]

Also nearly every FT I've seen that dropped a valve was due to incorrect valve adjustment technique used. Most that have checked their FT's valves find they never go out of spec and don't need adjusting anyways.

When you say that incorrect valve adjustment technique was used, are you referencing the need to support the valve bridge with a wrench when tightening or loosening the lock nut, so the torque doesn’t go into the bridge?

Just opened mine up and want to make sure I don’t mess it up. I’m following the FSM and it seems easy enough otherwise.

 

[tetelestia]

Thanks for all these photos, I had no idea these engines had such a beefy crank girdle on them!

 

[SNLC]

When you say that incorrect valve adjustment technique was used, are you referencing the need to support the valve bridge with a wrench when tightening or loosening the lock nut, so the torque doesn’t go into the bridge?

Just opened mine up and want to make sure I don’t mess it up. I’m following the FSM and it seems easy enough otherwise.

We always adjust them by backing up the bridge. Never had an issue.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Head is going on now with the ARPs.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Head torqued down.

Cheers