1HD-T rebuild and transplant into HZJ 105 (1 Viewer)

[drujba]

Back to the story line:

I received the pump from the diesel repair shop. They said it was completely overhauled, which later on proved to be a lie. In fact I think they just opened it, cleaned a little bit the outer case, than put it back and painted the bolts in orange.
It was still leaking, so it was sent to another diesel repair centre. The second shop was fairer, they admitted they cannot source the servicing parts anywhere and changed only some o-rings that they could equate. Eventually I checked with more diesel service centres, but none of them could really service the pump. Although this Denso IP is based on a Bosch design, seems that the service kits are different.

Anyway, I quickly finished the installation of the engine head, the intake and exhaust manifolds, etc. At that moment we had to build another exhaust downpipe, because the original HDJ80 downpipe is going a different way than the HZJ105. This was something I could not do by myself, so I called in some help. We used 63mm (2,5") stainless steel pipe (which later on proved to be a mistake) and connected it to the existing median muffler of the 105. The median and the rear mufflers were kept.
The guy I called in for help, is able to work with stainless steel like that:

These are not mine, they are for a different car.
And a detail:

And here it is, my "HDJ105" downpipe:

Next, the air filter.
The 1HZ air filter is small, so not proper for a turbo engine. I searched again the parting out shops and found an air filter case from a HDJ100
This was it:

Bought it, cleaned it, ordered a new filter element and installed it. I realised that in fact the air filter case is the same for 1HZ and 1HD-FTE, only the filter cap is different, the 1HZ cap goes straight to the engine, while the 1HD-FTE goes down. And of course the filter element is different. The 1 HZ filter is something teeny-tiny in the middle of the case, while the 1HD-FTE is almost double in size. The cores however are the same, therefore the same case is usable. A tip for the HZJ105 owners: if you order simply the HDJ100 air filter element for the next service, you'll tune up your intake for free.
I wanted to use the original TOYOTA air filter case because as I said in the beginning, I wanted to have something clean and looking original.

 

[drujba]

And the end result:

Looks pretty ok and someone who is not really familiar with the 105's will not be able to tell that this was an engine swap.
it started at the first key turn, but nothing amazing for this engine.

 

[drujba]

All these led into that:

And it was quite a smooth and boring ride, some passengers have fallen asleep...

Anyway, it's not ending here. Soon after this, the pump was leaking again, and I was meanwhile reading the MUD threads about GTurbo , intercooler kits , IP tune-ups , reworking of the aneroid pin in the boost compensator , and so on. I could not sleep at night anymore, as I was only thinking about that, maybe some of you understand the ordeal I have been trough...

 

[chapel gate]

Awesome

 

[chapel gate]

Awesome.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Looks good.

As the former owner of a 1HD-T powered 80series, and owner of a turbo charged HZJ105, I am envious!

 

[drujba]

Looks good.

As the former owner of a 1HD-T powered 80series, and owner of a turbo charged HZJ105, I am envious!

Ha ha, actually your turbo HZJ105 thread was one of those that I carefully read and inspired from.
However, the crank and the block are not the same for 1HZ and 1HD-T, the size of the crank bearings is different. Also the piston rods are different, as the 1HD-T crankshaft has larger rod bearings.

L.E. - As @wedgetail correctly observed, the correct information is that in fact the 1HZ and 1HD-T share the same engine block and crankshaft. I mixed some things up a little.

 

[wedgetail]

the crank and the block are not the same for 1HZ and 1HD-T, the size of the crank bearings is different. Also the piston rods are different, as the 1HD-T crankshaft has larger rod bearings.

sorry man that’s not right - the blocks are the same (turbo oil drain/feed possibly excepted) and the cranks are the same year for year. In fact even the big end bearings (and of course mains) are the same part number year for year. The rods certainly are very different though

 

[drujba]

sorry man that’s not right - the blocks are the same (turbo oil drain/feed possibly excepted) and the cranks are the same year for year. In fact even the big end bearings (and of course mains) are the same part number year for year. The rods certainly are very different though

Yeap, you're right, my bad. I mixed some things up with my previous post.

 

[roscoFJ73]

Did you end up using the R151F?

 

[drujba]

Did you end up using the R151F?

For the moment, yes. But I am looking forward to get a H150. Trouble is my 105 has the wide bench in front, so I have to exchange the whole seat/shifter setup.

Anyway, as I mentioned before, this was not the end of the story. The pump was still leaking and I was meanwhile reading the threads about engine tune up, turbos, intercoolers and so on.
It has to be said that this kind of engine is something rather exotic in the part of the world where I'm living. There are not so many people using them, and it's a struggle to keep them working properly. For instance, it's almost impossible to have a decent pump service for this kind of IP. To try tune up the engine, something even harder. So I thought the best way is to follow the path that was walked before by people who extensively use these kind of vehicles - the Australians. I have never been in Australia, but I imagine TOYOTA Landcruiser and NISSAN Patrol are like VW and Audi in Europe, they are everywhere and lot's of people have an idea how to deal with them. At least judging by the sheer amount of goodies you can find in Australia for these models.
So, two months after intensively reading lot's of threads, I ordered this:

It was really filling up the whole trunk of my VW... But I had serious plans
Few words about this product: it is superbly manufactured, with a lot attention to details (exactly the way I like it), fits perfectly, it was exceeding my expectations.

And I ordered this:

I have handled it with extreme caution and care

What a beauty, isn't it?

And back to work, I started the intercooler kit fitment:

 

[drujba]

And kept on fitting:

Sorry, not so many pictures here, I only have this one taken from a different angle.

While fitting the intercooler, I bumped into old Mr. Rust...

And used chemical warfare against him

Just a temporary solution, until I'll do the same I did here.

As I mentioned earlier, this intercooler kit have fitted perfectly, it was no need to "adjust" anything. Big thumb up for the Aussies!!!

 

[roscoFJ73]

For the moment, yes. But I am looking forward to get a H150. Trouble is my 105 has the wide bench in front, so I have to exchange the whole seat/shifter setup.

No doubt the H150 is a better box. But the R151 should be ok if you don't do any racing starts

 

[SNLC]

I purchased the exact same intercooler kit for a clients 1HDT.


I haven’t installed it yet so cool to see yours.


Cheers

 

[drujba]

No doubt the H150 is a better box. But the R151 should be ok if you don't do any racing starts

It's not only about the starts. It's also about the clutch. Currently I have the original 1HZ flywheel and at the time of the installation, a brand new 275 mm Outback Extreme +40% clutch. Well, after 1-2 months of usage, the clutch is almost fried, it's already sliding when I am stepping on the gas in the 3rd or the 4th, and judging by rattles it makes when I am trying to slowly go forward in the 1st, I'd reckon the pressure plate will soon be gone.
I already got a 1HD-FT flywheel in order to install the 300 mm clutch, trouble is that I cannot find any 300 mm clutch disc with a small centre hole and 22 splines, as it's needed for the R151F gearbox. The 275 mm clutches are available in both setups, larger centre hole 14 splines for H150 and smaller centre hole 22 splines for R151.
And last but not least, now I have the 4.3 diff ratios but they are too short and at cruising speed I have too many rpm's. The new setup of the engine is able to spin the wheels much better and stronger, so I am planing to go for the 3.9 diff ratios. This would be the same as riding on 36" wheels instead of the actual 33"s, which I think would be too much for the R151.
I am not saying that the R151 will brake immediately, but not sure how long will it cope with ~180 KW of engine power.

 

[mudgudgeon]

I believe there is a 300mm Isuzu clutch with the smaller splines @Tapage may be able to help with part numbers.

If you have already sourced a H15# gear box, fitting it when you change the clutch is a no brainer.
The H boxes are sooooo much tougher than r151, it's like comparing Arnold Schwarzenegger and Kate Moss

The r151 box don't have a good reputation in a landcruiser application. With your turbo and intercooler etc, it will be a matter of time before you need to swap it out. Best to do it on your terms.

 

[drujba]

The turbocharger was an easy, bolt on fitment, nothing to mention about beside the fact that it was a trouble free installation. It was even possible to install the original TOYOTA heat shield that is fitted on the original CT26 turbocharger. Another big thumb up for the Australian design.

The exhaust however, was a different story. The old 2,5" dump pipe was decommissioned, together with the cast iron elbow of the CT26. A new collector was made out of stainless steel and the exhaust line was rebuilt completely out of 3" stainless steel pipe.

This is the collector which replaced the cast iron elbow:

The exhaust gas is now flowing directly into the dump pipe, and makes a very cool grunting.

And the other end of the exhaust line:

This guy who builds these exhausts, really likes TIG welding.

 

[drujba]

And finally the injection pump....

After being "repaired" twice it was still leaking fuel... I have started to look out for a smarter diesel repair shop in the neighbouring countries, as beside overhauling, my plan was also to tune up the pump in order to make it keep up with the ~25PSI of boost offered by the BadBoy GTurbo.
Eventually I sent the pump to Italy, there was a diesel shop in the area of Brescia who allegedly could do it. To make the long story short, NO, they could not do it and returned it to me the way it was, without doing anything to it.

Finally I took the crazy decision to send it to Australia... So I contacted Mick at ADS Injection in Mareeba / Queensland, bought for my pump a two way ticket in the airplane of DHL, prepared her and her 6 babies for the trip, and took her to the airport:

These are the 6 babies:

At that time I was 50%-50% convinced that I will ever see them again.

But turned out that Mick and ADS Injection were real, and I finally got what I needed. It was a bit hard to communicate because of the 10 hour time difference, and also because of the cultural differences between a Queenslander and an Eastern European. We communicated trough the FB messenger, I was asking lot's of questions, as I was..., of course..., worried about everything, he was simply giving me short and dry, one line replies, which drove me crazy

But, finally I got my pump back and the minute I unpacked it, I knew sending it to ADS, was the right thing I did. The case was new, the head was new, everything was nice and shiny. I Installed it, respected the 1,35* timing angle, fired up the engine, and yes... The sound was different, this time in a good way.

For the third time, big thumbs up for the Aussies, and for Mick, if you're ever reading that, Cheers Mate!

 

[wedgetail]

Look very good - you should get some pretty good numbers out of the 1hd now. Did Mick tune the pump to suit the turbo and intercooler? Good choice on pump shop - there are a number of very good pump shops here that know cruiser pumps backwards but ADS would almost be no1. As you say this is the land of the landcruiser and there are heaps of good very good companies doing bolt On mods for them. You’ve probably
Found the best (although PDI are excellent too) for engine mods, but look at NPC for clutches. And plenty of suspension guys too.

For the moment, yes. But I am looking forward to get a H150. Trouble is my 105 has the wide bench in front, so I have to exchange the whole seat/shifter setup.

that just means you need the box from a Ute (hdj79 or vdj79) or an 80 series. Will go straight in no need to alter anything inside. You need the bellhousing for the h box to 1H***** too. Don’t worry about revs - fuel economy
Doesn’t suffer unless you lug them down with too low a gear. 3.9s is way too high especially with 33s. 33s with 4.3s is pretty much stock gearing on an hdj100. They’re not a Cummins and don’t mind a few more revs

I believe there is a 300mm Isuzu clutch with the smaller splines @Tapage may be able to help with part numbers.

If you have already sourced a H15# gear box, fitting it when you change the clutch is a no brainer.
The H boxes are sooooo much tougher than r151, it's like comparing Arnold Schwarzenegger and Kate Moss

totally agree! The r box is linked the whole hzj105 mistake Toyota made (as in not making an hdj105) IMO... although I thought the Isuzu clutch thing was a 275mm friction plate for the h box spline? Could be wrong but

 

[Tapage]

I believe there is a 300mm Isuzu clutch with the smaller splines @Tapage may be able to help with part numbers.

300mm disc with 21 fine splines for H150

300mm pressure plate ( stock for 1HD-T )

you can make this combination with Exedy parts which would raise your clamping set point to 2000 IIRC ( over 1600 or so which the stock setup )