1HD-T Intake Manifold Modifications

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Aaah, low tech solutions, I love em

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Lots of volume but does that lessen the flow pressure ? If it doesn't and your going that route why not move it closer till it touches and save yourself a weld on the inside bottom . Weld it inside then polish it up smooth. Earlier I was thinking why not intercool the plenium , I'd say your almost there. When I made mine it was an aluminium oxygen tank perfect length perfect size (I think ,thought) you should mount one right beside your plenium for you propane tank. That would look sweet.
 
Hard to say what difference it'll make, but the science says it will breathe better. I still have to polish the runners for that extra 1%

I'm making a whole list of changes (complete build) at the same time, so there will be no way of telling what gave me the most bang for my buck, as long as it goes as well as I hope, I'll be happy.
 
Another 1% . Curious what the big players say about the science on the big volume vs head pressure ? Have you run that exhaust manifold design ? I would have thought that you'd length tune for the push suck effect. Would that not back choke pressure without at least a larger volume tapered exit ? I kind of think that's why the #6 always is the first one to melt ring lands with the rear log exit ,it has a hard time fighting all the other exhaust ports for exit. Or am I out to lunch with my thinking.
 
Naah, you surely know more than I do. The 1% is a reference to the colloquialism (the 1%ers) the little things that all make a difference when added up with everything else. I'm just doing everything possible that I can afford/do myself, crossing my fingers and hoping for the best.

There will always be a pinchpoint, that is the core philosophy of process improvement, it a matter of working through all the possibles and getting them done. I know fuel will be the final frontier for this project. When I do go for the 12mm pump/injectors, I know I'll be well set up to handle it.

I had 7 immediate pinch points - stock fuel, turbo, air cleaner, inlet manifold, head, exhaust manifold and exhaust, I now have:
  1. Maxed 10mm VE
  2. Bigger turbo
  3. 6" straight through K & N pod filter
  4. Monster plenum inlet manifold/intercooler
  5. Match ported and polished brand new head
  6. New exhaust manifold (best I could afford/find)
  7. New 3" exhaust from turbo flange to front of rear wheel
If all these things put together give me a better ride and offset the power loss I have created by converting it to an auto transmission, I'll be a happy guy
 
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She'll go good.
Get a big ass rad to help cool that cooler.
Your going to have some fun.....
 
I'm thinking of putting a big one up front between the (cut away?) front grill and the roo bar. Like a big ATW setup for my WTA. Initially I bought a universal 22" cross flow radiator as I was going to sandwich the core/ac condenser/radiator but there was problems rerouting the ac stuff, doable, just too much trouble.

I'm still exploring this one.
 
Another 1% . Curious what the big players say about the science on the big volume vs head pressure ? Have you run that exhaust manifold design ? I would have thought that you'd length tune for the push suck effect. Would that not back choke pressure without at least a larger volume tapered exit ? I kind of think that's why the #6 always is the first one to melt ring lands with the rear log exit ,it has a hard time fighting all the other exhaust ports for exit. Or am I out to lunch with my thinking.



Once I've run this exhaust for a few months and the bank balance starts to get back to full health, I'll probably contact the guy who built this one (lives in Tasmania) to see if he can build me a proper tuned length tubular turbo exhaust manifold for it. And everyone else...
 
I'll wrap all the whole underside/engine facing surfaces with this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/THERMO-T..._Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a2ec38489&_uhb=1

The blurb:

The adhesive-backed composite material can be easily applied to any surface or wrapped around a hose or wire to make a clean, professional appearance. The highly reflective surface is capable of withstanding radiant temperatures in excess of 2000°F (1095°C) Adhesive Backed Heat Barrier is available in four sizes.
 
that exhaust sounds good, will keep an eye on this thread
 
The whole idea of an intake manifold mod is give the 2 outer runners the same flow as the middle. The 1 you have built won't do it. It's also irrelevant if only running low boost.
 
20psi should be enough

As I said earlier, I'm not right out on the edge like the big boys but I have no doubt it'll make a big difference.

This is how you all started. The joy for me is in doing it myself and learning from my own success or failure tempered by the experience of those who have gone before me.

I know you're selling the best ever I/C plenum that tapers all the way to the ends Biggie, that doesn't mean mine won't work, it just means that at the pointy end yours gets it all where as mine will get a little bit less

That's ok by me, I built it myself and I'm not at the pointy end...

I'm no expert on hydro/aero/thermal/whatever dynamics but it seems obvious to me that at pressure, it's just as much about available volume to the inlet as it is about flow. Each cylinder will now have way more than it's own volume instantly available as opposed to the standard manifold where each cylinder robs the other and has no real reserve. At that point the flow is extremely important.

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The number 1 and 6 cylinder will bennifit greatly from the plenum by itself. Sure you could blend some of the sharp turns and net more even flow, but in every job at some point you have to draw the line at where to stop. This will work for low boost set ups, although the intercooler might not help then, the plenum will always improve flow across all the cylinders especially higher rpms. That is a nice looking clean job. It should make a huge difference. Good work.
 
Thumbs up it looks great.
The intercooler rad will be your next most important thing. This is where I think the efficiency is really going to matter for shedding heat during full heat soak.
Keep it up.


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I think your totally right Foreal. Just like getting a large surface area on an air to air with good air flow is key, so it is true for the air water radiator. With out that your going to get poor results no matter how good your intercooler core is.
 
I'm on to it, the current/standard unit is 250 x 250 x 38 = approx 0.24m3 and sits inside the front grill up against the condensor for the aircon unit

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The new unit is 588 x 170 x 70 = approx 0.7m3 that's triple the volume of the original.

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I'm going to cut off the end of the outlet side of the tank and insert a baffle through the middle of the tank, this will make it into a two pass cooler.

Water can then only go in through the bottom half of the core and hit the end tank, go up and return via the top half of the core and then on to the intercooler. The new outlets will be on the inside facing the vehicle so I can fit it where the stock grill fits, I'm going to cut up the grill so I can set up the cooler outside in full air where the grill sits now.

I'll keep the headlight shrouds and weld tabs here and there onto the cooler to mount to the vehicle and the shrouds will become part of a combined radiator/front grill.

I'm also putting in a 4L cooling water reserve tank for the intercooler to return to and the pump to pull from.

Having the cooler set up like this is the best I can come up with and is already under way. Where I'm scratching my head is - how can I protect the radiator without significantly impacting on airflow?

Any ideas guys?
 

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