1HD-T burning oil with low km's??

[crushers]

yes, Mark at Braveauto is a gent with a very good reputation. I would buy from him, and that is saying a lot.
has the BEB been done yet? if not then do a close check while the pan is off for signs of sludge. you might have sticky oil rings. if you do then replace 1L of oil with a liter of SeaFoam and drive for 100 or so km. drain, inspect the oil for sludge. if the oil has sludge then repeat. use CHEAP oil, the cheapest you can find.
if NO sludge then dump the oil back in and drive 1000km and drain and inspect. if still clean then don't worry about it, fill and do usual oil changes.

as Rosco says, low km, lots of idling, maybe missed oil changes (not unheard of) and you could have sticky oil rings.

cheap insurance.

 

[Jbone]

Rosco,

Almost all my km's are long trips (150-1200km) on highways in mountainous areas. That being said, with 33's i rarely rev beyond 2400 RPM on highways. Would this rule out seating of rings? Thanks for the input Crushers, I will have to look into that. The BEB was done as soon as it was imported.

 

[ozcrusier]

Imported engines have low miles but long hours from being stuck in heavy traffic daily.

 

[crushers]

not true ...
imported engines are usually high mileage claiming to be low km.

imported actual low km vehicles does not mean "long idling times". in Japan, from what i have learned, owning a vehicle is a huge expense so low km also means it has been sitting. Shaken means everything has to be stock and is very detailed inspection.

there is a lot of misinformation about vehicles from Japan.

 

[Jbone]

Also @ Rosco,

I always check oil levels cold. And my oil consumption is based off recovery of oil after a change, not dip stick variations.

 

[Dougal]

Imported engines have low miles but long hours from being stuck in heavy traffic daily.

Indeed. Some are even idled for hours at a time just to run the AC while the owner does something else.

I'd go for the Italian tune-up myself.

 

[roscoFJ73]

Rosco,

Almost all my km's are long trips (150-1200km) on highways in mountainous areas. That being said, with 33's i rarely rev beyond 2400 RPM on highways. Would this rule out seating of rings? Thanks for the input Crushers, I will have to look into that. The BEB was done as soon as it was imported.

2400 rpm would be more than enough.
Ive never used the seafoam ,I 'm generally not a believer in potions but maybe its worth trying.
A compression test would tell you a few things,but make sure who ever does it has an accurate tester and knows what they are doing.
Good compression would put your mind at ease and if its bad ,you wont be chasing shadows.

 

[roscoFJ73]

Also @ Rosco,

I always check oil levels cold. And my oil consumption is based off recovery of oil after a change, not dip stick variations.

And you get the engine nice and warmed up before a change so it pours out like water?

 

[Jbone]

Rosco,

I always do a neighbourhood cruise before draining if the truck has been sitting, and there are times when I have done it after parking it from a 700km trip home. I think draining/residual oil left behind can be eliminated.

I think I am just going to have to suck it up, cross my fingers, and get a compression test...

Pray to the cruiser gods for me that its turbo seals and not rebuild...

~J

 

[hj 60]

About 25 kilometer of driving before draining is what I do,also before the 4 seconds@4100 rpm smog test.

But what is the oil change interval because if you replace at 5000 kilometer nothing is wrong (?)
As long as you dont get the oil level at the lowest? Thick oil has higher oil pressure so that gives an impression of contamination.

I always overfill my hj60 with 2 litres of new oil, start 10 seconds, leave it at night and drain 2 litres of pitch black sludge the next day.
Check the dipstick and that oil is new
If the engine is ok I would certainly be to lazy to take it apart, just drive it and make sure it explodes with hissing and flames before you take it out

 

[Jbone]

A little update,

Went for a drive today in search of smoke! And... nothing. Like I said before, it smokes when cold (as in sitting for days at and below freezing cold) and warming up. Once warm exhaust is invisible. I got a buddy to follow as we went for a cruise and hammered up some sizeable hills on the way. Again, invisible exhaust while under load. The only smoke occurs when backing off the accelerator quickly during a shift, or say when reaching the top of the hill and seeing a cranky neighbour. Other than those 2 scenarios, exhaust is invisible.

Does anyone know if valve seals could be a plausible culprit for oil consumption?

I sure hope the engine is not kicked...

I have a compression test booked for the 7th, and will hopefully come out with nothing more than expensive peace of mind, but will let everyone know what the verdict is.

Thanks for everyone's input so far!

~J

 

[roscoFJ73]

I cant recall these getting bad valve seals, and in any case , you would still get blue oil smoke. Typically valve seals leak while you are sitting at the lights and let out a big cloud of blue smoke as you accelerate away.

 

[wrongway around]

You had a friend follow you up a sizable hill while you hammered it and the exhaust was invisable, I have never seen or heard of that before. Something definitely wrong with that picture.

 

[Jbone]

Wrongway around,

Small blaff puff on initial acceleration, but no smoke when holding stead RPM up hill

 

[wrongway around]

I think I got it , after reviewing all the facts it seems you might in fact have a cluster fk ( MPH speedometer inside a kmph cluster ) that would put everything within specs. No? Still a compression check should be done just to rule out any potential internal issues.

 

[Jbone]

I think I got it , after reviewing all the facts it seems you might in fact have a cluster fk ( MPH speedometer inside a kmph cluster ) that would put everything within specs. No? Still a compression check should be done just to rule out any potential internal issues.

I am not sure I follow? My speed and mileage check out in Km/hour if that is what your saying. And seeing as Japan is a completely metric country, I think tampering would be somewhat obvious if the speedo was swapped for an imperial one? Which does not really make any sense.... I dont see how your input relates to oil consumption...

If you are just screwing with me, which I kind of get the sense you are... You are definitly winning...

 

[Jbone]

Also, when sealing a large piece of rubber ( think inner tube type texture/thickness) around the open oil cap, and reving to around 1500 rpm, crank case pressure seemed to be negative if anything at all, based on this high tech instrumentation. Farmer dads come up with some interesting techniques sometimes.

 

[wrongway around]

Ya sorry just throwing you abone I couldn't help it. I wouldn't loose sleep over it till you get a compression check. Especially if your turbo inlet pipes are oil free. Your oil thickness choice is another thing. Like your dads creativness too ,I live in the city my dad used a condem.

 

[Jbone]

Hahaha wow, you definitly win on that one, touche! Here I was scratchin my head at the drawing board trying to figure out how my cluster would affect oil... I am not an idiot I promise... Its just been a long day. Must be still experiencing some NYE induced lag time...
Anyway, will post the results of compression test on tuesday!

Cheers

 

[crushers]

buddy, sheesh, quit being a worry wart.
your engine runs fine
you could probably crank the fuel up a bit
you go through MINIMAL oil use between changes
at this rate it will be YEARS before you need to change or rebuild the engine. just drive the damn thing and enjoy.
do this, dump a can of seafoam into the crank case about 200 km before the next oil change.
then when you do the oil change substitute 1 can of auto tranny fluid and drive as usual and change the oil at the regular interval.
then drive with your usual oil and check for loss at next oil change.

seriously, no knocking, no blue smoke, no indications of external leakage ... just drive it.