1HD-FT Oil in intake (1 Viewer)

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jaymundy

jaymundy

Joined
May 8, 2007
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Greetings! I have a 1995 HDJ 80 with a 1HD-FT engine in it (24 valve turbo diesel). The issue is oil in the intake. I'm getting excess oil from the valve cover breather tube, which is then going into the intake and then working its way through some of the vacuum lines and making a mess on the valve cover. The intake is also full of oily soot courtesy the EGR valve and excess oil.

Anyway, the main question, any thoughts on what's causing the excess oil from the breather tube and how do I fix it?

Thanks!
J
 
Mann Provent 200 CCV filter.
MANN+HUMMEL SG > Industrial Filters > Provent

Instal between the Valve cover and intake port on the Air box.
Gasses will pass through, oil gets dropped out of it.
You can set it up for manual drain or buy the optional check valve
so that it drains back into the sump automaticaly once the engine is shut off (no pressure)
 
Last edited:
Every TD engined vehicle I've owned has done this to some degree.It's the nature of the beast.large amounts of oil being blown through are usually a sign of excessive crankcase pressure caused by worn rings/bores but an oil trap will certainly be beneficial.I fitted a trap from a Vauxhall Vectra to my 1HD-FT and it works a treat.I just remove it and flush it out with a solvent (wjite spirit etc.) every 600-1000 miles or so depending on what type of miles I've done.Only cost me £12.

Disconnect the EGR valves.You'll get (slightly) better MPG and an end to the build up of the black crud in the inlet system.
 
maybe this is a stupid question. but how does one disconnect the EGR valves? Would my 1990 1HDT have the same? Can you show pics?

I have the same problem as jaymundy
 
No EGR on the 1HD-T. After 95 some 1HD-FTs got EGR, some did not even within the same market.
I have one in my garage, ex JDM HDJ81 that doesn't lucky for me.
 
I made a simple separator out of pvc, then did a little background on pvc and see that it melts around 150-170 degrees.... so I'm back to the drawing board :(

will try again w/ steel or with Al.

would prefer to just buy a solution, if one were available.
 
70sguy said:
Mann Provent 200 CCV filter.
MANN+HUMMEL SG > Industrial Filters > Provent

Instal between the Valve cover and intake port on the Air box.
Gasses will pass through, oil gets dropped out of it.
You can set it up for manual drain or buy the optional check valve
so that it drains back into the sump automaticaly once the engine is shut off (no pressure)
Click to expand...

70sGuy did you install this? Any pics of your setup?
 
No, not yet.. The projects are piling up, spare time.. not so much.
 
70sguy said:
Mann Provent 200 CCV filter.
MANN+HUMMEL SG > Industrial Filters > Provent

Instal between the Valve cover and intake port on the Air box.
Gasses will pass through, oil gets dropped out of it.
You can set it up for manual drain or buy the optional check valve
so that it drains back into the sump automaticaly once the engine is shut off (no pressure)
Click to expand...

I installed one of these in December with disastrous results. It couldn't seperate oil from air and caused massive oil consumption (1 litre in 20km). I have just heavily modified my provent (removed pressure regulator valve, blocked all holes, installed deflector and reversed the hose arrangement) and now it appears to be working okay.

Honestly I cannot recommend these any more. A home-made catch can with a sump drain works better.
 
Dougal said:
I installed one of these in December with disastrous results. It couldn't seperate oil from air and caused massive oil consumption (1 litre in 20km). I have just heavily modified my provent (removed pressure regulator valve, blocked all holes, installed deflector and reversed the hose arrangement) and now it appears to be working okay.

Honestly I cannot recommend these any more. A home-made catch can with a sump drain works better.
Click to expand...
I've had 1 on for over 2 years & only just replaced the 1st filter.
The intake is clean as a wistle.
When you say you "reversed the hose arrangment"
How did you have the hose's arranged. The top hole is the inlet (from rocker cover),The lower hole is the outlet (To the aircleaner)
& i didnt connect the return back to the sump.

Best thing i've put on my FT so far as it works

Hamo
 
DSCF0183.jpg
 
ham00 said:
I've had 1 on for over 2 years & only just replaced the 1st filter.
The intake is clean as a wistle.
When you say you "reversed the hose arrangment"
How did you have the hose's arranged. The top hole is the inlet (from rocker cover),The lower hole is the outlet (To the aircleaner)
& i didnt connect the return back to the sump.

Best thing i've put on my FT so far as it works

Hamo
Click to expand...

The original hose arrangement (lower hose return) resulted in oil sloshing into the outlet hose and being delivered straight to the turbo and intake pipes. It delivered this oil in large enough gulps that the engine ran on it's own oil around 6 times. It takes suprisingly little angle offroad for the oil in the bottom of the provent to fill the exit hose.

I have modified it so the intake hose is the lower and the outlet hose the top. This setup actually works as an oil seperator. The lower drain exits to the oil sump below oil level (as recommended).

Honestly if you can run an oil seperator without the drain connected, you don't need one. If you do need one the provent probably can't deal with the oil volumes required. My engine had a factory external air/oil seperator which was replaced by one of my own design (worked well, but too small) and then the provent.
My efforts would have been better spent making a larger version of my own centrifuge oil seperator.

Here are the 2 main problems with the provent.
1. The exit hose is too low. Any decent oil flow will enter the outlet valve and from there cannot pass back to the drain, it can only leave via the vent tube. Acceleration and gradients off-road make this much worse.
2. Any oil caught in the filter has to drip past the exit stream to get to the lower drain. While dripping past the change of it leaving with the exit air is pretty good.

By reversing the hoses it keeps the bulk of the oil below the filter element. The bulk of the oil has a direct path down the drain. Any oil mist is seperated out by the filter and can then drip down to the drain without any issues.
Air getting out the top hose now is centrifuged, has to pass throguh the filter and finally exits at the top where the least oil can be carried.

The summary is simple. If you don't need an air/oil seperator the provent will work fine. If you do need one, the provent won't work.
 
Last edited:
hey all, this thread is oldish, but I thought I could add some info
I installed the provent200 a year or so ago, and never plumbed the oil output anywhere, just drain it to the frame rail /ground/ undercarriage, rear axle housing. Great rust preventer.

Of course, I've also just vented the air similarly. it stinks.

one of the obstacles has been finding 1" tubing to do the plumbing work. heater hose fell apart (oil ate it).

so I just found/ordered some silicone hose from www.siliconehose.com it's over $7/ft, which is expensive, but it was the least expensive solution that I found after 20 whole minutes of searching.

I'll let you know how it works out.

My plan is to route it back into the turbo as per the factory routing, and hopefully get rid of the stinky that I smell at idle.

I'm also planning to take the valve cover off to see about adding some sort of extra baffle by the pcv vent. it seems to me that much of the problem is blowby, but part of it is that any oil splashing about in the valve cover doesn't have much obstacle to getting sent out of the vent with the blowby.

again, I'll post my impression when it is done.
 
side note: the provent does seem to filter a large amount of oil out of the airstream
 
sandcruiser said:
I'm also planning to take the valve cover off to see about adding some sort of extra baffle by the pcv vent. it seems to me that much of the problem is blowby, but part of it is that any oil splashing about in the valve cover doesn't have much obstacle to getting sent out of the vent with the blowby.
Click to expand...

Just bending the existing baffles under the valve cover made a HUGE difference for me. I still have a film of oil through my intake but it's really quite minimal compared to what it used to be like. I have a small catch can but it does give me an idea how much is passing through and the difference is night and day.
 
Adam,

Did you just bend it to what you thought made sense or is there a spec for it?
 
I just did what seemed "right".

But I was looking for a photo just now and the first search of "1HD-T valve cover baffle" came up with the following from the Safari website...

pcv_baffles.jpg


That's very close to what I did. You can clearly see how wide open they are from the factory. Splish, splash, you're taking an oil bath.
 
Make sure you get a baffled oil catch can so it can condensate the vapours batter
 
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