1FZ Water Pump/valve stem seals Longevity (1 Viewer)

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Apr 30, 2012
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I have a 94 replacement engine with 172k miles on it. I am freshing it up up. My problem is I am am a anal OCD perfectionist. I am trying to keep it from being a complete rebuild. And I have a hard time with the "while I got it out migh as well" situations. I plan on replacing every seal/gasket on it. And upgrading the alternator. And will rebuild the starter. And of course replace all belts and hoses. I have great compression on both of the engines. And have no oil lose or smoke on start up. Is it worth it to replace the stem seals? And what about the water pump? I have never been left on the side of the road from a faulty waterpump. But it is a bitch to get to in the frame. How many miles can you expect to get outtta one? And how much does a factory one run? I already have a new radiator and have no cooling issues.
 
The water pump is super easy to replace.... Not sure what your looking at, if it's not burning oil don't worry about it, of your super paranoid, take off the head send it to get checked and get the valves ground/adjusted. My water pump lasted 126k
 
I wouldn't do the stem seals unless you're doing a HG or a complete rebuild.
 
I will be doing a head gasket for sure. But I really and trying to keep myself from going any further. Sounds like a new OEM water pump will be going in. And I was thinking about new idler pulleys also. What kinda of mileage should those see?
 
I will be doing a head gasket for sure. But I really and trying to keep myself from going any further. Sounds like a new OEM water pump will be going in. And I was thinking about new idler pulleys also. What kinda of mileage should those see?

I sell the drive belt idlers all the time. I don't usually know the mileage though. If you're going to pull the head then I would def do the stem seals. You can just buy a engine gasket set and it will have every gasket in it including the stem seals. I mean honestly. My feelings are, if you're going to do it, do it right the first time.
 
Don't get the engine kit (04111-66036)--it's a waste of money for just a valve grind jobber.

Get the valve grind kit (04112-66036) and the following items:

15785-66010: x3
16119-66020: x1
15725-66010: x1

Those parts are the bare minimum for a "basic" 1FZ-FE head gasket jobber.

EDITED (11 MAR 2020) To update part numbers due to manufacturing and supplier changes.
 
Last edited:
Just to make sure we are on the smae page. This motor is out on a stand. I have full access. Will most likely be replacing the rod bearings. Since that is what failed in my other engine. So I will be replacing the head gasket and main seals front/rear. Beno do you still think the kit will be a waste for me? I will be doing a emmision deletion as well(EGR/PAIR). What does that full kit run?
Thanks guys
 
If you decide to do the water pump get the pump from rock auto. They sell new aisin pumps with the Toyota logo grinded off for under $70. I have the Aisin part number at home on the old box. It comes with new studs also. I wish I would have looked into the box before I swapped the studs over.
 
Don't get the engine kit (04111-66035)--it's a waste of money for just a valve grind jobber.

Get the valve grind kit (04112-66035) and the following items:

90099-14118 (dizzy oring)
25627-66010 (EGR to manifold gasket)
15785-66010 (gasket for the hardpipe heater line running along the PS of the engine)

Those parts are the bare minimum for a "basic" 1FZ-FE head gasket jobber.

Just to make sure we are on the smae page. This motor is out on a stand. I have full access. Will most likely be replacing the rod bearings. Since that is what failed in my other engine. So I will be replacing the head gasket and main seals front/rear. Beno do you still think the kit will be a waste for me? I will be doing a emmision deletion as well(EGR/PAIR). What does that full kit run?
Thanks guys

He was saying he wanted to change all the gaskets. That's the only reason I suggested the complete kit. If you are only doing the head and valves then I would just get the head set. The full engine gasket set through me is $300.85 with the MUD discount.
 
Just caught that.

You will still need the extra parts I mentioned or you won't be putting your rig back together correctly.

For the delete: use the Toyota gaskets as templates to make block off plates and then use them with your block off plates. Cheap insurance.
 
Get the whole kit, and I would do the stem seals if the head is gonna be off.
 
If you have everything out on a stand, I'd go all the way.

I made up a document that has everything you need to go all the way with a 1FZ-FE.

Enjoy!

:)
 

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  • 1FZFE_LONGBLOCK_REBUILD_DOC.pdf
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Beno: great list, thanks. One question, 13515-75010: DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE GEAR, is that gear prone to early wear or fracture, IDK?
 
If you have everything out on a stand, I'd go all the way.

I made up a document that has everything you need to go all the way with a 1FZ-FE.

Enjoy!

:)

Onur,

Great list to have just for the part #'s of misc gaskets and such let alone a complete list for the rebuild.

Thanks! :clap:
 
Holy smokes! Thats is a very comprehensive list there. Thanks for all your knowledge and effort Beno and C-Dan.:clap::clap: But now you really got me thinking:idea:

I wonder how much most of that would run me?:D
 
If you have everything out on a stand, I'd go all the way.

I made up a document that has everything you need to go all the way with a 1FZ-FE.

Enjoy!

:)
Thanks for doing that, Beno. You and Dan are a huge blessing to this community.
 
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I'm going to be doing the same thing. I'd do the guide seals unless you know they have been done. . I have a 94 and 97 that both smoke oil at startup from guides. I will be doing all gaskets, seals, as I'm going to do HG. and good time to do some inspecting including rod brgs maybe a few mains. I have to change it over to go in a 97 anyway. I can worry about external parts anytime but not main seals etc.
 

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