Hey everyone. Is anyone in the process of rebuilding a 1fz-fe or thinking about it?
1FZ-FE rebuild
- Thread starter ZachG
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Thinking about, yes. Why do you ask?
- Thread starter
- #3
Well, im heading down that road soon myself and I have very limited experience with anything like this. I was hoping to maybe just tag along and learn while lending an extra set of hands.
Also, if you are looking for a barometer as a gauge for what you are getting into, here are a couple detailed threads on 1FZ rebuilds.
@Rice one of our fellow members and good friend has done a full rebuild on his 1FZ: Rice's 1FZ-FE rebuild Thread
@sbman also has a great build thread on his 1FZ build: 1FZ-FE Rebuild full overhaul - picture heavy
@Rice one of our fellow members and good friend has done a full rebuild on his 1FZ: Rice's 1FZ-FE rebuild Thread
@sbman also has a great build thread on his 1FZ build: 1FZ-FE Rebuild full overhaul - picture heavy
You'll need to define how deeply you want or need to go. Rebuilding can get spendy if you have to bore the block and go with new rings and pistons. I think the current rate for rings and pistons is somewhere between 1100 and 1300 for parts, and thats assuming your crank doesnt need attention. add new bearings for the crank as well. Add a new brass bushing from Wits End if you hot tank the block, because it will destroy that bushing. Cracking open the bottom end gets spendy in a hurry, and you rapidly go from chicken level, to pig level in commitment to the bacon and eggs breakfast.
Beno can source a short block, and possibly a long block. That may be the more cost effective route if you have bottom end issues.
If youre keeping the engine inside the truck and just refreshing the top end:
Refreshing a top end (assuming the head is not cracked or warped beyond repair, with no new valves, just valve stem seals, and a valve grind gasket kit) will run about 400 + or - so in parts (valve grind kit), and about 500-600 more at a machine shop for hot tanking, pressure testing, installing new stem seals and adjusting the valves. That does not incude any new valves, or reworking the valve seats. The labor is the killer there, because to do it the OEM way, you use the various valve shims, and have to pull the cams several times. Some shops just skip the adjustment shims, and grind the valve stems down to proper clearance. A little less labor time, but its possibly a one and done on the valves for the next top end. I dont know how available new OEM heads are, but a used head can run as low as a couple hundred straight off an engine, up to 1500 fresh from a machine shop.
Then you get into all the "while youre in theres..."
Fuel injector servicing (about 150.00 or so)
Fuel filter
Dist cap/rotor/wires/plugs
PHH and all offending other little heater hoses on the back of the firewall
Insulating the wiring harness under/around the EGR.
EGR/VSV repair/replace/remove
Belts
vacuum lines and hoses
Water pump
Alternator brushes
Belt tensioners/pulleys
Fan clutch
Oil pump cover gasket and screws
Front crank seal
Resealing the oil pans
If I recall correctly, a "basic" aftermarket rebuild is about 5-7k if a shop does the labor, plus the remove and stab. The cost increases with more OEM goodness installed. That number could almost double, depending on how much new junk you install.
Beno can source a short block, and possibly a long block. That may be the more cost effective route if you have bottom end issues.
If youre keeping the engine inside the truck and just refreshing the top end:
Refreshing a top end (assuming the head is not cracked or warped beyond repair, with no new valves, just valve stem seals, and a valve grind gasket kit) will run about 400 + or - so in parts (valve grind kit), and about 500-600 more at a machine shop for hot tanking, pressure testing, installing new stem seals and adjusting the valves. That does not incude any new valves, or reworking the valve seats. The labor is the killer there, because to do it the OEM way, you use the various valve shims, and have to pull the cams several times. Some shops just skip the adjustment shims, and grind the valve stems down to proper clearance. A little less labor time, but its possibly a one and done on the valves for the next top end. I dont know how available new OEM heads are, but a used head can run as low as a couple hundred straight off an engine, up to 1500 fresh from a machine shop.
Then you get into all the "while youre in theres..."
Fuel injector servicing (about 150.00 or so)
Fuel filter
Dist cap/rotor/wires/plugs
PHH and all offending other little heater hoses on the back of the firewall
Insulating the wiring harness under/around the EGR.
EGR/VSV repair/replace/remove
Belts
vacuum lines and hoses
Water pump
Alternator brushes
Belt tensioners/pulleys
Fan clutch
Oil pump cover gasket and screws
Front crank seal
Resealing the oil pans
If I recall correctly, a "basic" aftermarket rebuild is about 5-7k if a shop does the labor, plus the remove and stab. The cost increases with more OEM goodness installed. That number could almost double, depending on how much new junk you install.
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Are you wanting to do anything special with the motor? Or just keep it stock?
@ZachG , what is your reasoning for a rebuild? Overheating? Wierd Noise coming from somewhere? Loosing fluid(s)? Mileage?
Its not like a GM product, where you can just grab a kit for a few hundred, and have at it. When you start adding up the costs of a full oem rebuild, @NCFJ 's LS swaps dont look like an unjustifiable expense.
Its not like a GM product, where you can just grab a kit for a few hundred, and have at it. When you start adding up the costs of a full oem rebuild, @NCFJ 's LS swaps dont look like an unjustifiable expense.
@jtmosca just did one
Yup^^^
Also great documentation of Alex's rebuild with our limited garage space here as well.
1FZFE overhaul
Also great documentation of Alex's rebuild with our limited garage space here as well.
1FZFE overhaul
X2 on everything everybody just said. My limited knowledge, thoughts and pics on the topic start on pg 3 of my thread FZJ-8-my wallet
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- Thread starter
- #11
Wow!!! Thank you all for the responses and advise. I had read the threads mentioned above and they honestly scared the crap out of me. I don't have the garage, tools or knowledge yet for that. Let me provide a little more background so maybe some of you can chime in and advise some more...
I bought my 80 5 years ago from a guy in Wilmington. Got a good deal on it knowing I would have to do some work on minor things but was eager to learn and do stuff myself. I have done a lot, new complete a/c myself, front rotors/brakes/bearings myself, alternator, a few mods etc. but mostly basic stuff, non engine related. I now have 275k miles on the ticker!!
In the 5 years I have had it, I have put 3 radiators in it. Overheated on Cape Lookout..YIKES! and overheated on my way back to Charlotte from Nags Head last week. Unfortunately when you are stranded with the family and the rig is full of gear, I have been at the mercy of the closest shop that AAA can tow me too and I have had to accept whatever radiator they could find the fastest so I could get home. 3 weeks ago I had my coolant flushed (not with Toyota Red). Another side note.. The past two radiators have blown out at the same spot, dead center at the bottom, engine facing if that means anything??
This is wear my rebuild questions begin.. I have a bit of a tick in the engine when driving and I feel like there has to be something deep down that is causing my issues. At least my untrained mind thinks!!
So...
1. How do I know how far into this I have to go? Does any of the above background lead anyone to think that I need to check something?
2. Do I keep getting debris in radiator from crap in my engine? Do I need to extensively flush the block?
3. I have done basic checks for the head gasket, No white smoke, no cloudy/milky oil. Is there anything else I need to look for?
4. I plan on checking the compression this week so maybe I will know more?
I agree with you stevezero a LS swap may be justifiable!!!
I bought my 80 5 years ago from a guy in Wilmington. Got a good deal on it knowing I would have to do some work on minor things but was eager to learn and do stuff myself. I have done a lot, new complete a/c myself, front rotors/brakes/bearings myself, alternator, a few mods etc. but mostly basic stuff, non engine related. I now have 275k miles on the ticker!!
In the 5 years I have had it, I have put 3 radiators in it. Overheated on Cape Lookout..YIKES! and overheated on my way back to Charlotte from Nags Head last week. Unfortunately when you are stranded with the family and the rig is full of gear, I have been at the mercy of the closest shop that AAA can tow me too and I have had to accept whatever radiator they could find the fastest so I could get home. 3 weeks ago I had my coolant flushed (not with Toyota Red). Another side note.. The past two radiators have blown out at the same spot, dead center at the bottom, engine facing if that means anything??
This is wear my rebuild questions begin.. I have a bit of a tick in the engine when driving and I feel like there has to be something deep down that is causing my issues. At least my untrained mind thinks!!
So...
1. How do I know how far into this I have to go? Does any of the above background lead anyone to think that I need to check something?
2. Do I keep getting debris in radiator from crap in my engine? Do I need to extensively flush the block?
3. I have done basic checks for the head gasket, No white smoke, no cloudy/milky oil. Is there anything else I need to look for?
4. I plan on checking the compression this week so maybe I will know more?
I agree with you stevezero a LS swap may be justifiable!!!
If I was going to spend the coin to rebuild the 1fz... i'd at the very least give it a kick in the boot.
@jfz80 do you remember the guy who used to work at slee who now can do a rebuild on these for 275hp and 300 something ftlbs of tq? Was it Ben?? I can't remember the name of his shop either.
But at the same time I wouldn't rebuild it. you can get a short block for around $3500 last I heard... although that was 3 years ago, may have gone up... and then search for a SC kit for that kick in the pants.
@jfz80 do you remember the guy who used to work at slee who now can do a rebuild on these for 275hp and 300 something ftlbs of tq? Was it Ben?? I can't remember the name of his shop either.
But at the same time I wouldn't rebuild it. you can get a short block for around $3500 last I heard... although that was 3 years ago, may have gone up... and then search for a SC kit for that kick in the pants.
It's hard to narrow down exactly what you're hearing in the motor from here. It could be a lot of different things. You might want to bring your truck to one of the Charlotte monthly meetings to have a second set of ears listen to the noise you're hearing.
If you are having overheating issues, I would go through all the weak links in the cooling system before you tear into the motor. Start by checking your fan clutch; see if it is going bad. @NLXTACY (Wits End) sells an excellent fan clutch replacement for the 80 and it's not hard to replace. I know it might be small but also check the tension of all your belts. Loose or worn belts have a negative effect on your cooling.
Check the PHH hose. If the truck has 275k on the clock, it's probably time to replace the PHH. Doing a back flush on the heater core wouldn't be a bad idea either.
If you haven't replaced your heater control valve yet, believe me you want to do that soon. The plastic the heater control valves are made of gets very brittle over time and is prone to breaking. Mine was ancient and may have been contributing to my overheating problem by introducing air into the cooling system through tiny cracks in the valve body.
You may also want to check your thermostat. You can test it to see if it's working properly, if not, it's time to replace it.
I don't know what year 80 you have but the earlier 80s (93-94) had the brass/aluminum 3-core radiator. Some would argue that this was the best radiator, I'm inclined to agree. They are still available from Denso and would be my choice if your radiator is giving you trouble.
This is personal opinion. I understand the reasoning behind wanting a high-powered V8 in these trucks. I love high-powered V8s, but having a Chevy inside of a Toyota never sat well with me. I figure if you want a Chevy motor in your truck, buy a Chevy. Also, I'm a Ford guy
Do the compression test on your motor and tell us what you find.
- Thread starter
- #14
Thanks for the input and suggestions guys. I did buy a blue fan clutch but didn't get a chance to install it before my last trip. Ill check the thermostat and will probably flush my heater core this weekend.
Speaking of belts.. I get an intermittent wine from the A/C belt when the A/C is on. It only happens for a second and then goes away but it happens about every 3 or 4 minutes. Could that be contributing to my issues? I had a shop next to my work tell me my belts were fine but I'm reluctant to believe anything that shop says..
Speaking of belts.. I get an intermittent wine from the A/C belt when the A/C is on. It only happens for a second and then goes away but it happens about every 3 or 4 minutes. Could that be contributing to my issues? I had a shop next to my work tell me my belts were fine but I'm reluctant to believe anything that shop says..
I second driving it to a monthly meeting and letting other folks listen to it. My 97 lx450 has a case of piston slap, where one cyl was starved of oil due to a stupid wix filter failure, so it is slowly wallowing out the cylinder wall. Its been doing it for at least 3 or 4 years. It gets a tiny bit louder each year, but still not enough for me to yank the motor.
What weight and brand of oil, and oil filter are you running? Try a higher weight oil, and run a toyota filter (or mobil one). WIX failures have been well documented here, and when they fail, our engines dont like them (see above piston slap issue).
Do you have an accurate temp gauge?(not the oem gauge, something like a scangauge or ultragauge). The oem gauge is horrible.
Denso radiators are now made in indonesia. I just put a denso in my white 97. its alum with plastic tanks. I have a 2 1/2 or 3 row TAD brass radiator (from a 93-94) sourced from beno when he was still at a dealer a few years back. I have that in my 97 450. It has metal everything..and is about 350 or so at that time. I'm confident my denso will last a while.
Full flush needs to be done on your system. search on here for Izzyandsue's cooling system flush thread. Yank the tstat out, and the heater control valve on the top of the firewall, and back flush both heater cores. Youll be replacing all those little hoses anyway. Also flush the block too. I used a lil CLR in mine to flush, and kept using tap water/garden hose for several mins. Eventually i flushed with about 8 gallons of distilled water, filling from the heater valve downward to fill both cores. You can make the jump from toyota red to traditional green at this time, without clogging up your system.
While the system is open, install a genuine Toyota tstat. Make sure the jiggle valve is pointing up at 12 o clock. Test it in water before you isntall for peace of mind.
Replace PHH, either with the short hose kit, or the bypass. Search here for tips for both.
Aisin fan clutches are available if you dont want to up for the already modified wits end ones.
Aisin water pumps are availabe for about 70 bucks. Would be a great time to replace that. Youll be halfway there doing the fan clutch.
Put on a new OEM radiator cap.
Pull your plugs to see if any look different from the others. post up picks for us to look at.
My white 97 had a blown hg, and it was pressurizing the cooling system (not blowing white smoke out the exhaust at all). It would pressurize the cooling system, and when the tstat opened, would blow everything out the overflow.
Check for some sort of chafe point where your existing rads have failed. Something rubbing, poking, etc.
What weight and brand of oil, and oil filter are you running? Try a higher weight oil, and run a toyota filter (or mobil one). WIX failures have been well documented here, and when they fail, our engines dont like them (see above piston slap issue).
Do you have an accurate temp gauge?(not the oem gauge, something like a scangauge or ultragauge). The oem gauge is horrible.
Denso radiators are now made in indonesia. I just put a denso in my white 97. its alum with plastic tanks. I have a 2 1/2 or 3 row TAD brass radiator (from a 93-94) sourced from beno when he was still at a dealer a few years back. I have that in my 97 450. It has metal everything..and is about 350 or so at that time. I'm confident my denso will last a while.
Full flush needs to be done on your system. search on here for Izzyandsue's cooling system flush thread. Yank the tstat out, and the heater control valve on the top of the firewall, and back flush both heater cores. Youll be replacing all those little hoses anyway. Also flush the block too. I used a lil CLR in mine to flush, and kept using tap water/garden hose for several mins. Eventually i flushed with about 8 gallons of distilled water, filling from the heater valve downward to fill both cores. You can make the jump from toyota red to traditional green at this time, without clogging up your system.
While the system is open, install a genuine Toyota tstat. Make sure the jiggle valve is pointing up at 12 o clock. Test it in water before you isntall for peace of mind.
Replace PHH, either with the short hose kit, or the bypass. Search here for tips for both.
Aisin fan clutches are available if you dont want to up for the already modified wits end ones.
Aisin water pumps are availabe for about 70 bucks. Would be a great time to replace that. Youll be halfway there doing the fan clutch.
Put on a new OEM radiator cap.
Pull your plugs to see if any look different from the others. post up picks for us to look at.
My white 97 had a blown hg, and it was pressurizing the cooling system (not blowing white smoke out the exhaust at all). It would pressurize the cooling system, and when the tstat opened, would blow everything out the overflow.
Check for some sort of chafe point where your existing rads have failed. Something rubbing, poking, etc.
A new set of oem belts (2 for alt, one for ac) are less than 25.00. the ac tensioner pulley is inexpensive too.
The AC will cut out at 227 degrees(or so). the whine could be the belt, the pulley, the tension, or the bearing or clutch on the compressor. The bearing is repalceable, bit can be a pain in the rear. But its a heck of a lot cheaper than a compressor.
The AC will cut out at 227 degrees(or so). the whine could be the belt, the pulley, the tension, or the bearing or clutch on the compressor. The bearing is repalceable, bit can be a pain in the rear. But its a heck of a lot cheaper than a compressor.
^ ^ ^ ^ What he said.
- Thread starter
- #18
The a/c compressor is a brand new Denso that is less than a year old, Ill have to throw some new belts on and check the tension. Thanks!!
Out of curiosity, why was the compressor replaced in the first place?