Did you happen to check what was your vacuum gauge reading @idle ?
1fz-fe Oil Consumption Issue
- Thread starter enox
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- #22
that makes sense too, i have to bury my foot all the way to the floor to get it to downshift unless I do it manually...
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- #23
negative, I have not done so yet.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Blocked PCV ?
Can pressurise the crank case and cause high oil consumption as oil is pushed past rings and valve stem seals
Can pressurise the crank case and cause high oil consumption as oil is pushed past rings and valve stem seals
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- #25
PCV seems good, it's new from Toyota. I did take it off and shake it. I can hear the ball inside move. The pcv goes to a catch can. The catch can has a small dip stick, if I remove the dip stick while it's idling there is a significant amount of vacuum.
LINUS
Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
A side issue is you’re running 5- multiweight oil when even up here in WA I run 10-30 M1.
I know what the oilcap says, but if you survey owners here, most are running a little thicker.
Granted, it’s no cause to eat 2.5gal of oil, but on my new(er) stem seals I lost ~1/4qt between 3K oil changes of 5-30 M1 prior to the switch, and now I lose nothing you can measure on the dipstick with 10-30 M1 and same 3K intervals.
I know what the oilcap says, but if you survey owners here, most are running a little thicker.
Granted, it’s no cause to eat 2.5gal of oil, but on my new(er) stem seals I lost ~1/4qt between 3K oil changes of 5-30 M1 prior to the switch, and now I lose nothing you can measure on the dipstick with 10-30 M1 and same 3K intervals.
Maybe a silly question but have you checked your timing at all. May not be the cause of your oil consumption issues but it may attribute to your power loss issues potentially. I know you have a 95 but on my 94 I was having issues with emissions and it seemed like I was burning more oil than usual. I re-timed the truck and it made a huge difference. I set it back to 3° BTDC per the manual because it was bouncing between 5 and 10. My emissions issues were solved and my oil consumption went down to maybe 1 quart every 2000 to 2500 miles. Also I know some will say its bull crap or snake oil but I have had pretty decent results from using BGs 3 pack system cleaner with the 44k, MOA and EPR.
I know I'm in the Midwest..... But I always run QS 5W-30 dino oil. I run it about 7000 miles per change and I have Blackstone run an analysis every other oil change.
I accidentally poured in 10W-30 but I didn't realize it until AFTER I was having problems. When I had done that, my truck started leaking in multiple locations, and it started burning oil a LOT, like 1 Quart per tank of gas. Mind you, prior to this, my truck would go 7000 mile and not even drop past the full line on the dipstick.
Once I figured out what had happened, I changed the oil back to 5W-30 and now my oil consumption is GONE. In 5000 miles, I have used no oil and my leaks have stopped again.
Seems counter-intuitive, but that's my story and I'm stickin to it!
- Thread starter
- #29
so I'll have to re-check the timing, I just actually put it on one of the pages from my ultra gauge it's labelled "timing advance" it is reading a value of 5.00 when idling.
also I pulled tps sensor up and it's showing a Max of 78% when pedal is at the floor.
I buried my foot on the throttle earlier and noticed it basically red lines and shifts at 3400-3600rpm.
Do you have the turbo button on?
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- #31
if in turbo button you mean pwr, no I do not currently, but had to use it on the hills.
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- #32
values sitting at idle
timing advance
manifold
tps sensor
o2 bank 1 sensor 1
o2 bank 1 sensor 2
timing advance
manifold
tps sensor
o2 bank 1 sensor 1
o2 bank 1 sensor 2
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- #33
plug #1
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- #34
here's 1,2,3 from left to right.
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- #35
1,2,3 - 5, 6
SO far, nothing out of the ordinary other than the gap may be a little tight.
The white tips could indicate a little lean, but with the black on the bottom of the housing, it looks OK.
A few deposits on #6, but that looks like a slight amount of oil ash.
How's #4 look?
Your B1S1 O2 sensor is reading stupid rich. It should be cycling around 450 mV rather than the 750 shown.
That will cause the ECM to pull fuel in efforts to lean it out. I'd bet money that your long term fuel trim numbers are reflecting efforts to lean it out hence a drastic loss of power.
That will cause the ECM to pull fuel in efforts to lean it out. I'd bet money that your long term fuel trim numbers are reflecting efforts to lean it out hence a drastic loss of power.
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- #38
Like he said. A NBO2 should be cycling between 0-1v which makes an average of around .5v when your AFRs are nearly stoichiometric. Your plugs are showing LEAN for sure, but almost .8v would lead me to believe your AFR is mid 13s or lower. Unless you have an exhaust leak i would start there, and compression test all the holes.
*edit* the post you made while i was typing this shows pretty fresh looking oil coming out around the TB. I would suspect thats from the breather. May be a good idea to have a leakdown test done, you shouldnt have enough crankcase pressure under normal conditions for an N/A motor to cause that.
The way to do a simple check of the B1S1 Oxygen sensor is to induce a known lean condition (cause a vacuum leak) and see it you can drive the voltage below 450.
Remember though, just because it's reading 750 (extremely rich), that does not mean the engine is running rich. It simply means the sensor is telling the ECM that, which will cause the ECM to start cutting fuel back in an attempt to get the O2 sensor reading back to 450.
You really need access to a good scanner to look at the fuel trims though.
Remember though, just because it's reading 750 (extremely rich), that does not mean the engine is running rich. It simply means the sensor is telling the ECM that, which will cause the ECM to start cutting fuel back in an attempt to get the O2 sensor reading back to 450.
You really need access to a good scanner to look at the fuel trims though.
