1fz-fe Head Removal

[MILOWILLI]

Hi there folks, This is my first post here. I have been reading up for info on how to do a head gasket on a 1FZ-FE.I have seen many ideas on how to to do various things.I have worked on many Toyota engines but never a FZ engine. Any way here are a few observations .

First of all I see some folks cut the intake manifold as the harness passes through the manifold. I found it easier to pull the harness from the firewall. Remove the glove box, unbolt the ECU and pull the plugs off. There are also two othe plugs to be unpluged..then pull the harness thru the grommet. Remove the O2 sensor wire. Unbolt he harness from along the top of the firewall and carefully remove the plastic protector...the harness is now free.

I then removed the bolts from the top manifold..some from above and some from below using a long extension on my back under the truck. The lower manifold is then easily released..Pull of the manifold and then feed the harness through. I found it easier to do this than remove the harness from below or cut the manifold....dont like cutting stuff.

As for the crankshaft pully i followed someones posted advise here to bolt a chain to the pulley and wraping it to the frame...works like a champ. Well so far so good....i still have to find out how to remove the timing cover....HOW DO I REMOVE THE TIMING COVER..HELPPPP

I can post some pics if anybody wants to see.

 

[DTAYLOR]

Why do you want to remove the timing cover?

BTW, it is far easier to remove the harness plugs from the USDS of the engine, and the exhaust, and nuetral safety switch. Access to the plugs is gained when you remove the intake, which is needed to remove the head.

 

[DTAYLOR]

BTW, Welcome, and do post pics..

 

[MILOWILLI]

Need to replace the timing chain,rails and tensioner...car has 213K Miles...Looks like the sump has to be removed..Can it be removed from the engine..can it clear the front axle and steering components?

 

[MILOWILLI]

Yes...Nice to be with the landcruiser Boys now...I am an active member of yotatech.com I mainly work on Toyota 4Runners and Pickups..The 1FZ is my first landcruiser Job...a 94 thats been sitting in a yard for almost a year.I am trying to bring it back to life....haaaa

 

[MILOWILLI]

Why do you want to remove the timing cover?

BTW, it is far easier to remove the harness plugs from the USDS of the engine, and the exhaust, and nuetral safety switch. Access to the plugs is gained when you remove the intake, which is needed to remove the head.

I thaught the harness goes all the way to the transmission like the 4Runner...I never knew that it could be separated from below the manifold..anyway its easy to put back thru the grommet.

 

[DTAYLOR]

I thaught the harness goes all the way to the transmission like the 4Runner...I never knew that it could be separated from below the manifold..anyway its easy to put back thru the grommet.

It goes to the cats, and nuet. safety switch, no biggie really. But you can do it either way I guess. My thinking is that you will want to do the starter, and also heat tape wrap it, so why not get it all out of the way?

217k is not a big deal for these engines. I made the mistake of thinking I needed to overhaul mine at 225k, and it turned into a huge ordeal, mainly because of inept work of two machine shops. Long story. When I saw the engine all torn down, there were zero signs of wear on the journals, cylinder walls, etc. Unbelievable!

The oil pans (plural) must come off, and you'll need a lift, or a combination of jacks to get the pan "out" once it is "off". Then the air intake, throttle body, plug wires, distributor, valve cover, 2 front head bolts (these are also timing cover bolts), AC compressor, compressor mount, water pump, alternator and bracket, idler pulley, thermostat housing, thermostat, (pulling radiator is optional, but I did for more room and to protect the top tank), lower radiator hoses and steel pipe, steel pipe mount, vertical water bypass pipe, horizontal water bypass pipe, stabilizer bar under back of engine, USDS stabilizer bracket.

Unless you have a leak, broken chain or slipper, or just want to spend an additional 30 hours working on it, I would leave it alone.

That said, I'm tearing mine down for the second time right now!
Let me know if you need any help.

 

[JerryLX450]

DTaylor, I remember month ago few members here recommended to replace 2 heater hose one near the fire wall and the other one right under the intake manifold. Do you know what, which the heater hoses and can you post the part number of it.(Not the PHH).

 

[DTAYLOR]

DTaylor, I remember month ago few members here recommended to replace 2 heater hose one near the fire wall and the other one right under the intake manifold. Do you know what, which the heater hoses and can you post the part number of it.(Not the PHH).

Jerry,

You'll have to be more specific. There are, 7 heater hoses near the firewall, not including the PHH. The only heater hose I know of under the intake is the PHH.

There are three bypass hoses that run from the thermostat housing to the steel tube, to a hose, to the throttle body, then the third to a nipple on the block, right beside the PHH.

CDan is the parts guru, you'll need to figure out which hoses you want and call him for them.

 

[cpg]

To those that have done this already what is the recommendation for the intake removal/wiring harness? Is it that hard to disconnect?
Thanks
Chris

 

[DTAYLOR]

To those that have done this already what is the recommendation for the intake removal/wiring harness? Is it that hard to disconnect?
Thanks
Chris

Chris,

Depends on you. I took mine off at the lower extremity (as described above). Milo took his off from the inside, and worked out.

To remove the intake:

Disconnect battery, then remove it. This gives you more room.
Remove the air cleaner top, and air intake tube.
Remove the throttle body plugs, bolts, and gasket (set it aside). (I found that I could do this without removing any of the cables, by just flipping it over after removing the bolts, and tubes).
Remove the EGR valve assembly
Remove the PHH pipe bolts
Remove the PS res
Remove the verticle support bolt
Remove the oil dipstick bolt
Remove the upper intake bolts from the bottom
Remove vac lines and charcoal canister line
The upper intake should be loose..

BTW, why are you removing the intake?

 

[cpg]

Thank you very much that is what needed.
I am replacing the head gasket and some other items.
180k miles It does not need it just dont want it to go in the middle of Baja.
Thanks
Chris

 

[DTAYLOR]

Thank you very much that is what needed.
I am replacing the head gasket and some other items.
180k miles It does not need it just dont want it to go in the middle of Baja.
Thanks
Chris

Ok, but while you're there..
Starter kit
Alternator brush pack
Silicone PHH and Firewall heater hoses
Have a machine shop mill the head (be sure they know how to work on a Land Cruiser head)
Clean the intake (machine shop)
Water pump
Dist cap, rotor
Plug wires
plugs
fuel filter
heat tape wrap the harness
2 oil changes
belts
radiator hoses
PCV valve and hose
anything else CDan tells you

This is also a great time to install a better power steering cooler.
Inspect the steering shaft grommet at the firewall, replace now..
Inspect the accelerator cable, replace now..

HTH,

D

 

[cpg]

I am at the head now what size socket for those head bolts?

 

[Beowulf]

First of all I see some folks cut the intake manifold as the harness passes through the manifold.

As far as I know, only 1 guy cut his intake manifold. I cannot recall the details but I would be surprised if this was endorsed by the seasoned veterans here in the 80-Section.

Read the procedures used by Landtank and IdahoDoug if you need information on your HG job.

(How did you find that thread where the guy cut his manifold anyway? ? ? That was a long time ago if I remember correctly.)

-B-

 

[LINUS]

Intake cutter would be me. More power to you if you found all the places that harness went. I chased stuff clear to the tranny, then I couldn't fit my mitts wherever the wires went.

And the intake cutting wasn't a whim. I sized up the situation and either get the now ex-wife to unplug my harness, or make things easy down the road should I ever need access again. I radiused all edges upon removal, and made triple sure the cutting wouldn't chafe the harness. I'm known as pretty obsessive by friends and family.

The Cruiser isn't my first go round either - here's my garage today:

That's a '98 OBD2 E36 M3 motor being converted to OBD1, then installed in the E30 M3 pictured. As obvious here, and in my photo album, engine has seen some attention, so cutting a manifold isn't a big deal to me.

20K on the new headgasket, no problems at all.

 

[landtank]

I am at the head now what size socket for those head bolts?

it takes a 12pt socket which is where you might be running into trouble. I think it's a 12mm but it could be a 14mm, try them both.

 

[DTAYLOR]

it takes a 12pt socket which is where you might be running into trouble. I think it's a 12mm but it could be a 14mm, try them both.

I think it's a 12mm, 12 point.

FSM calls for replacing them after one use.

 

[cpg]

Thanks I got it off no leaks

 

[powderpig]

Even with a bad picture, you are showing signs of carbon on top of the fire ring. If you do not see a clear bright area on the fire ring, it indicates that carbon (compression) is starting to find its way to places it sould not be. Just did a truck last week with 118k miles from a real clean 93 that had both #1&6 getting ready to let loose(fire ring on #1 was pushed in, pulling away from the gasket material. the owner had no signs of a bad HG and wanted to get it done sooner than later. good luck Robbie