1999 transmission fluid interval

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what's the interval for 4 speed tranny fluid? 99% on road use. Do you refill thought a plug or dipstick tube? Average drin and refill about 4-5 quarts? Any value in a fluid exchange to synthedic? If so, if there a DIY guide posted?
 
For mostly highway miles, I'll drain and then fill through the dipstick tube every 30k. I measure what comes out and put exactly that back in. Afterwards, I'll drive it for a little while and check the level while fluid is hot and the motor running.
 
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For mostly highway miles, I'll drain and then fill with T-IV through the dipstick tube every 30k. I measure what comes out and put exactly that back in. Afterwards, I'll drive it for a little while and check the level while fluid is hot and the motor running.


^^^^^^^^^^ Pretty much my regimen as well. Drain and fill (Usually about 3.5 qts.) every 30K miles.

But I 'check' the level and condition of the fluid at each oil change (every 5-6K).

Since transmission fluid is not a 'consumable' (like motor oil), you should have the same amount drain out each time (provided you have no leaks).

But as is your practice (and mine), it is wise to drive the vehicle and adjust the level of the fluid when it is hot.
 
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Hey, I think T-IV is wrong, you should use Dexron III type atf. Drain through the drain plug and fill through the dipstick 'do a search'.
 
I do not do the drain and fill technique. That only replaces a portion of your ATF, but if you are going to do it, lower intervals are better. I do a full fluid exchange using the transmission cooler lines every 50k. This ensures all fluid is replaced under the normal pressure of the system.
 
Manual say inspect at 30K miles.

98-02 uses Dexron III or greater, the higher the number the better. Dexron VI is a blend of conventional ATF with synthetic. I've tried them all and prefer M1 MV full synthetic ATF.

I do a full flush (12qt) every ~20 to 30K miles. I draining from cooler return line, fill at dip stick after draining (use new washer on drain plug) & filling pan to start the processes. I do this more often than needed, since I don't tow, but I like the insurance. I can't even tell when my transmission shifts, it's smooth as butter...knock on wood

The manual recommends checking level at normal operating temp, letting cool down a bit if to hot (run hard). When I use synthetic ATF I check level after running really hard to get very hot or try to. The synthetic AFT stays cooler, so level doesn't raise much from heat expansion of running hard, as like seen with conventional AFT. I shoot for hitting full mark on dip stick hot.

On high mileage transmission, that I've no history of flushes, I just do drain and fill (~3qt) every 5K (with oil & lube) until I've done at least 5 times. I feel this is safer, as full flush with synthetic cleans the transmission fast. If transmission is held together by gunk cleaning has been know to kill them, at least on other vehicles. I've not actual seen or heard of this happening on the 98-02 100 series.

I have no idea if M1 MV ATF is safe with the 03+. So I'll stick with Toyota WS until I do the research, or have a pool of mud member testimonials.
 
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Driving home the AT Temp light came on for a minute then went off.

I checked level at HOT and it was fine.

I pulled the stick a couple times and dropped the fluid on a napkin and the color stayed pink. Didn't see any dirt...not sure if this is a true test tho.

Getting ready for a 3 day trip. Anything else I should look at?
 
Each time you change oil remove the transmission drain plug. Only three quarts will drain out. Replace with three quarts of new oil of your choice. I use Amsoil and there are others that will do the job just as well.
In doing so you won't have to worry about a complete drain and fill. Three quarts of new fluid every time you change oil will more than accomplish a good transmission maintenance program resulting in a much extended life.

Don't forget the power steering fluid. At the same time remove all fluid from the reservoir and replace with new. Same result as transmission. Use your wife's turkey baster to remove fluid from the reservoir. Be sure to have one as a replacement in advance to maintain piece!

What's your opinion?
 
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Each time you change oil remove the transmission drain plug. Only three quarts will drain out. Replace with three quarts of new oil of your choice. I use Amsoil and there are others that will do the job just as well.
In doing so you won't have to worry about a complete drain and fill. Three quarts of new fluid every time you change oil will more than accomplish a good transmission maintenance program resulting in a much extended life.

Don't forget the power steering fluid. At the same time remove all fluid from the reservoir and replace with new. Sam result as transmission. Use your wife's turkey baster to remove fluid from the reservoir. Be sure to have one as a replacement in advance to maintain piece!

What's your opinion?


Is this actually good practice? It sounds to good to be true. :)
 
turkey-baster.webp
Is this actually good practice? It sounds to good to be true. :)

Yes using Turkey Baster is good....getting a replacement one for the kitchen also is good....my wife caught me using Baster to exchange brake fluid out of master cylinder once and it was not pretty :=[
 
With the giant transmission cooler it is very hard to heat the transmission fluid with normal highway driving. How is your fan clutch? Did you clean the transmission cooler fins? AC condenser and radiator? When I did mine, I had about a walmart size plastic bag full of hay and dead bugs and leafs.
 
I know 99 LX470 calls for Dexron III, not Dexron II for sure.
That was a typo, Dexron III came out 1993. But it doesn't matter, as I doubt you can even find Dextron II around anymore.

Each Dextron is more or less and improvement on previous. Look at the power steering reservoir cap; states Dexron AFT, doesn't even give a number that I've noticed.

M1 MV synthetic ATF has even a higher viscosity, but worth the lost MPG IMHO.

As with transmission, I also do full flush of power steering with M1 MV synthetic ATF.
 
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Driving home the AT Temp light came on for a minute then went off.

I checked level at HOT and it was fine.

I pulled the stick a couple times and dropped the fluid on a napkin and the color stayed pink. Didn't see any dirt...not sure if this is a true test tho.

Getting ready for a 3 day trip. Anything else I should look at?
Man your getting issues left and right!
How's coolant level and thermostat?
Any rain or car wash today?
 
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Man your get issues left and right!
How's coolant level and thermostat?
Any rain or car wash today?

I know man...this is what's driving me nuts! :bang:

Funny you should mention rain/car wash. I did take it thru a car wash about 30 minutes earlier. At the end with those turbine driers i saw water dripping from the sunroof controls and PS under glove box. Last year i cleaned out the sunroof but lost the 4 screws. I had just left the dealer from ordering them when the AT/Oil Temp light came on.

I checked coolant levels and thermostat... perfect. Possible coincidence as I have never seen this prior or after new radiator and coolant until after carwash. And no issues after washing my car by hand.
 
I know man...this is what's driving me nuts! :bang:

Funny you should mention rain/car wash. I did take it thru a car wash about 30 minutes earlier. At the end with those turbine driers i saw water dripping from the sunroof controls and PS under glove box. Last year i cleaned out the sunroof but lost the 4 screws. I had just left the dealer from ordering them when the AT/Oil Temp light came on.

I checked coolant levels and thermostat... perfect. Possible coincidence as I have never seen this prior or after new radiator and coolant until after carwash. And no issues after washing my car by hand.
Been lots of reports of strange issues after rain, wet snow or car wash. Number one is water getting in around windshield. See if condition is repeatable with same car wash.
 

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