1998 Lexus lx470 bad engine , what years fit it ?

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@ponytl just used a 4Runner 4.7... And a tundra 4.7 before... Seems like any 2uz long block will work
 
Yes I do have a low mileage one (110K) from a 2002 LX470
 
killerfj80 said:
Hi Mud I have a 1998 470 with a bad engine . what years fit it ?
Thanks
Click to expand...
all 4.7 engines out of any toyota product will work (pre 2003) for sure... some after... you can read my post as I have done this 2x... I have had good luck with engines off ebay most go for less than $1000, most salvage yards will remove them well including the wire harness (which you won't need but nice to have extra connectors) you will have to use your throttle body... but you still need to remove the intake to hook up the harness to the starter... (good time to check the starter) you will have to use your oil pan and your oil filter housing, and your exhaust manifolds and engine mounts... ask the seller of the engine for the VIN of the vehicle it came from to confirm the miles, most any engine under 150k should be fine but less is always better.. doing the full timing belt service while the engine is on the stand takes less than an hour... also a good time to replace rack & pinion bushings with engine out... I'm slow as dirt and working alone I'd guess 16-20 hours of labor... but I do a ton of cleaning and making sure everything looks like it came from the factory... also... GET the engine from a SOUTHERN or rust free area... I've seen engines from up north that look like they were underwater half their life... the engines I got looked all but NEW
good luck nothing hard about this job.
 
Thank you everyone
My truck has a bad knocking so that is the reason I'm looking into a new (to me ) engine . I also plan on doing the timing belt and gasket while I have it out .
How hard is it on taking the engine out of the truck ?
 
Just was reading about a knock, that turned out to be cracked flex plate (flywheel).
 
So is the rumor true that LC 4.7's were forged Pistons? Maybe a little better built than other application 4.7's?


Sent from my iPhone
 
killerfj80 said:
Thank you everyone
My truck has a bad knocking so that is the reason I'm looking into a new (to me ) engine . I also plan on doing the timing belt and gasket while I have it out .
How hard is it on taking the engine out of the truck ?
Click to expand...

there are a couple things that are a bitch... there is one hard transmission line that is bolted to the side of the block on the pass. side around the motor mount... you can not remove the engine without removing that one 12mm bolt... it's a royal beach to get to and you about have to go by feel... leave the hood on and remove the struts and with a rope just tie it back to the roof rack at full open... about half your work is from the top and half from below... pull the engine with the wire harness and reinstall it the same way... you have to disconnect all the harness from the ecu behind the glove box and pull the wires through the firewall... honest every hose just seems to line up where it needs to be... but still a ton of pictures help... a little tricky where the harness goes down the front of the engine to the A/C and the oil sending unit... I removed the fuel line from the fuel filter (and replaced the fuel filter anyway) getting the heater T hoses on /lined up takes a minute, the top bolts trans to block are kinda tight but most can be removed from the bottom... I worked alone both times and used a fork lift as a cherry picker but I can see where getting a cherry picker up high enough to get the engine to clear would /could be a problem... remove the radiator and discoonect the trans lines and be ready to plug the line and radiator or make a huge mess... I just removed the fitting/ hoses from the AC and lost the charge and removed/installed the engine with the ac compressor in place... but I work on a/c systems alot... so it was a non issue... if you have access to a vacuum pump then one of those tall cans of 134 with the hose is enough to recharge the system...
thats about all i can think about right now...
 
ponytl it's my understand all short block are the same for 2UZ-FE non VVTi. But I could be wrong, I'm still looking for LC specific. Do you have any idea?

2UZ-FE Sequoia 01 Tundra 02
5. Piston
The piston is made of aluminum alloy.

The piston head portion has adopted a taper
squish to improve the fuel combustion efficiency.

The piston ring grooves have been treated with

alumite coating to improve the piston’s wear resistance.

Full floating type piston pins are used.

The skirt portion of the piston has been applied

with tin plating to reduce friction.

6. Connecting Rod

The sintered and forged connecting rod is very rigid and has little weight fluctuation.

A weight-adjusting boss is provided at the big end to reduce fluctuation of weight and balance the engine

assembly.

The connecting rod cap is held by plastic region tightening bolts.

The connecting rods for the right and left banks are placed in opposite directions with the outer marks facing

the crankshaft.

The connecting rod bearing is made of aluminum alloy.
 
Muddy Bean said:
So is the rumor true that LC 4.7's were forged Pistons? Maybe a little better built than other application 4.7's?


Sent from my iPhone
Click to expand...
I have heard that and that the rods are true forged rods in an LC.... I can only say I had to oil pans off all 4 engines 2 donors (non LC) and 2 original LC / Lexus and every casting mark and web were exactly the same on both... it's my understanding that toyota has a patent on a powder forging process it uses on the rods and all the rods are made in japan even on US built engines... hard to believe that they would have 2 different quality parts that bear the same part number..... piston failure is so rare in any modern electronically controlled engine with knock control it is all but a non issue... coupled with the modern metallurgy and controlled casting environments that unless you are running compression ratios above 12 / 1 it is unneeded... the reason these engine have such long life in all their forms is due to this and the proper mating of materials at the controlled clearances... it's a way over built engine based on size, bore/ stroke / rod length/ bearing size/surface area... I've been building racing engines since I was 12 years old... yes alone... 12000+ rpm engines... and this toyota engine is the first bone stock engine I've ever looked inside and said... "damn that is pretty" on the blown engines I had to get out my micrometers and measure stupid things like crank thrust and rod clearance... one of these engines had 305k on it and one had 172k on it... and both were still within specs... you could still see HONE marks on the cylinder walls @ 305k

p
 
hoser said:
The iForce is strong with this one.
Click to expand...
Maybe? but hard to tell if they program the ecu for the weight and gearing of the vehicle... I would assume toyota would... there is nothing in the long block or the injection system that would make any one application of the 4.7 more powerful than the other... unless one has different cams... and I have not heard of any one cam being different than another... and again I would doubt that Toyota would have more than one version of the same basic long block
 
killerfj80 said:
So after checking everything in the engine bay , it happen to be a water pump making a clunking noise I won't be needing An engine for now only a timing belt , water pump etc
Click to expand...

Now that's one hell of a swing. Multi-thousand dollar engine replacement to a water pump and timing belt.
 
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