SOLD!!!!
1995 Toyota Land Cruiser, 236k miles dark green and gray with gray leather. The seats are cracking, the dash and door panels are good. I've had it a little over two years, selling because I've never used it off road and I could use a truck more.
New rear pads and rotors when I bought it.
I made a custom over the frame exhaust with a single high flow Magnaflow converter, no check engine lights and has passed a MD emissions tailpipe test. I was using the stock muffler but it rusted so it now has a brand new Thrush muffler that sounds pretty close to stock but tucks up very high.
New rear O2 sensor.
Replaced the lower rear heater lines with rubber and covered with heat sleeves.
Replaced spark plugs, valve cover gasket, spark plugs tube seals and pcv grommets.
Distributor o-ring, I have a new OEM cap and rotor just not installed.
Front crank seal and oil pump o-ring.
Front axle reseal and swapped birfs. They still click when turning out somewhere so they do have some wear.
New front calipers and pads.
New rear axle hard brake lines.
Procomp ES9000 shocks on the front last year and rears are still new in the box, haven't gone on yet. These are the extended length, I don't remember the exact measurements but I think they are similar to the OME L shocks. On the lift the front breather hose will pop off so the breathers should be extended if you go with lift springs.
315/75r16 Falken Wild Peak tires. Good tread, two of them have wear on the outside edges from another vehicle they were on but they are holding up good on the cruiser.
I have a 9k Badlands winch mounted behind the stock front bumper. I plan on keeping the winch but I'll leave the plate so all you need to do is pick up another, which with a 25% off coupon, you can get one at Harbor Freight for about $230.
LEDs in the dome lights (huge difference)
I've resealed the A/C compressor with the OEM seal kit, replaced the condenser, and the hard line that runs from the firewall around the back of the engine and meets up at the drivers fender. It leaked again due to corrosion in the dryer. I have a new dryer in the box just hasn't been installed. Also replaced various O-rings on engine bay lines. Basically everything under the hood should be good, I'm not sure about the evaporator or expansion valve they are the only parts left I didn't touch.
I've fixed most of the oil leaks, I think it might have a leak at the oil pan but not bad. It used to drip when ever I parked but since the oil pump and crank seal that has stopped and doesn't leave marks on the ground.
I was going to lift it but just never pulled the trigger on springs. It's fine with the 315's on the street no rubbing. With the shocks and tires all you need to do is add springs and caster and you would be good.
No lockers. Besides the center diff.
It has some rust. I did a quarter panel chop on the right rear due to rust. The left side has some behind the wheel but it's not too bad. The frame is solid it's surface, nothing is weak.
The lower sections of the front fenders are starting to crumble in spots. The rear upper hatch has rust at the bottom edge. The rear bumper trim is removed, I was going to build a rear bumper and integrate the tow hitch.
I just added the hitch, it came from Texas so just a little surface rust.
I have the third row, not pictured.
Asking $4900
Between Frederick and Germantown, MD
1995 Toyota Land Cruiser, 236k miles dark green and gray with gray leather. The seats are cracking, the dash and door panels are good. I've had it a little over two years, selling because I've never used it off road and I could use a truck more.
New rear pads and rotors when I bought it.
I made a custom over the frame exhaust with a single high flow Magnaflow converter, no check engine lights and has passed a MD emissions tailpipe test. I was using the stock muffler but it rusted so it now has a brand new Thrush muffler that sounds pretty close to stock but tucks up very high.
New rear O2 sensor.
Replaced the lower rear heater lines with rubber and covered with heat sleeves.
Replaced spark plugs, valve cover gasket, spark plugs tube seals and pcv grommets.
Distributor o-ring, I have a new OEM cap and rotor just not installed.
Front crank seal and oil pump o-ring.
Front axle reseal and swapped birfs. They still click when turning out somewhere so they do have some wear.
New front calipers and pads.
New rear axle hard brake lines.
Procomp ES9000 shocks on the front last year and rears are still new in the box, haven't gone on yet. These are the extended length, I don't remember the exact measurements but I think they are similar to the OME L shocks. On the lift the front breather hose will pop off so the breathers should be extended if you go with lift springs.
315/75r16 Falken Wild Peak tires. Good tread, two of them have wear on the outside edges from another vehicle they were on but they are holding up good on the cruiser.
I have a 9k Badlands winch mounted behind the stock front bumper. I plan on keeping the winch but I'll leave the plate so all you need to do is pick up another, which with a 25% off coupon, you can get one at Harbor Freight for about $230.
LEDs in the dome lights (huge difference)
I've resealed the A/C compressor with the OEM seal kit, replaced the condenser, and the hard line that runs from the firewall around the back of the engine and meets up at the drivers fender. It leaked again due to corrosion in the dryer. I have a new dryer in the box just hasn't been installed. Also replaced various O-rings on engine bay lines. Basically everything under the hood should be good, I'm not sure about the evaporator or expansion valve they are the only parts left I didn't touch.
I've fixed most of the oil leaks, I think it might have a leak at the oil pan but not bad. It used to drip when ever I parked but since the oil pump and crank seal that has stopped and doesn't leave marks on the ground.
I was going to lift it but just never pulled the trigger on springs. It's fine with the 315's on the street no rubbing. With the shocks and tires all you need to do is add springs and caster and you would be good.
No lockers. Besides the center diff.
It has some rust. I did a quarter panel chop on the right rear due to rust. The left side has some behind the wheel but it's not too bad. The frame is solid it's surface, nothing is weak.
The lower sections of the front fenders are starting to crumble in spots. The rear upper hatch has rust at the bottom edge. The rear bumper trim is removed, I was going to build a rear bumper and integrate the tow hitch.
I just added the hitch, it came from Texas so just a little surface rust.
I have the third row, not pictured.
Asking $4900
Between Frederick and Germantown, MD
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